tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53154454158777445072024-03-18T13:05:41.847-07:00Riding a RainbowOf Travel, Art and MusingsPriya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-38506885665053228432023-03-31T03:13:00.000-07:002024-01-18T06:50:11.672-08:00Exploring Bastar- A Sketch Travelogue<p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">In January 2023, I visited the Bastar district in Chhattisgarh. I got in touch with </span><a href="https://www.unexploredbastar.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Unexplored Bastar</span></a><span><span style="color: #444444;"> who planned my trip and also provided me with a guide. I created a sketch travel journal during the trip, </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/12/the-brokpas-of-garkon-sketch-travelogue.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">like the Ladakh one</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. Let me take you to Bastar through my sketches. </span></span></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I took a flight from Mumbai to Jagdalpur via Hyderabad. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieeOcFCHsuC2uRfmDmaIQkkoqSvYztAdFaPLZMxU3VGVIjIk66XhDJbc70ty6LrLim0KF88VnCGpmesCCkxkAsz6qgJTRpQrPQ8LKeCDdm5Vg59FIDYMZAyL6tePKyi0HFjOhu0ei7v2-cNsSRAg1tzA7FOc_AvWpkUWWK_Ts7dEUw_KEj6Bmwg990dx0/s2934/20230125_104704.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2934" data-original-width="2602" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieeOcFCHsuC2uRfmDmaIQkkoqSvYztAdFaPLZMxU3VGVIjIk66XhDJbc70ty6LrLim0KF88VnCGpmesCCkxkAsz6qgJTRpQrPQ8LKeCDdm5Vg59FIDYMZAyL6tePKyi0HFjOhu0ei7v2-cNsSRAg1tzA7FOc_AvWpkUWWK_Ts7dEUw_KEj6Bmwg990dx0/w568-h640/20230125_104704.jpg" width="568" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">People waiting at the airport at 5.30 am.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOhq4KhekGE8bhXhuDInHgI7vo5mZBCL0nVX15DasPU-j7nweS7vpv2QGTnxn7_OqTD3MClVyToKR-W58Ry4UaEs6AFSUJvniJzGotTqtDsLheZeNO9bEnB3Qg6O-vqhtEgLbuMcBwJjQHXxqRMV-UEHDH2HInKxFzEzagnscSXxfmqATjebN8rysmyaY/s3163/20230125_104740.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3163" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOhq4KhekGE8bhXhuDInHgI7vo5mZBCL0nVX15DasPU-j7nweS7vpv2QGTnxn7_OqTD3MClVyToKR-W58Ry4UaEs6AFSUJvniJzGotTqtDsLheZeNO9bEnB3Qg6O-vqhtEgLbuMcBwJjQHXxqRMV-UEHDH2HInKxFzEzagnscSXxfmqATjebN8rysmyaY/w612-h640/20230125_104740.jpg" width="612" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">View of the planes while waiting in the lounge. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br />My favorite thing to sketch on a flight is the plane window!</span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZxrNBO1yS6AKcziJ4fhhrhD5DUWAWG-1NR57jytBB7mtXA0IthK_qZPtuivcAk28YnLsguhEfaj9hViN6duFAuKkmxx-xJPmRtD9490SikJ5oJFzavpqW9cNzEwfWKlgeCpC8cPLKfECdQWLMzSzw7F4sJ9QnnTXPqveBGIl5b4lrmfM36indsXuaobI/s3383/20230125_104801.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3383" data-original-width="3019" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZxrNBO1yS6AKcziJ4fhhrhD5DUWAWG-1NR57jytBB7mtXA0IthK_qZPtuivcAk28YnLsguhEfaj9hViN6duFAuKkmxx-xJPmRtD9490SikJ5oJFzavpqW9cNzEwfWKlgeCpC8cPLKfECdQWLMzSzw7F4sJ9QnnTXPqveBGIl5b4lrmfM36indsXuaobI/w572-h640/20230125_104801.jpg" width="572" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Sunrise from above the clouds.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">My first stop was the Danteshwari mandir in Dantewada, which is one of the 52 Shaktipeethas where the Mother Goddess is worshipped as an incarnation of Shakti. According to Hindu mythology, Sati Devi, the first wife of Shiva, committed self-immolation in the Yagna kund (holy sacrificial fire) out of anger, because her father, Daksha, had insulted Lord Shiva. </span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">In utter grief and anguish, Lord Shiva carried the body of Sati devi, refusing to put it down. He also started the Tandava Nritya, the dance of destruction which threatened to destroy all worlds. Fearing the worst, Lord Vishnu, cut the body of Sati devi into 51 parts and thus creating powerful Shaktipeethas wherever the pieces of her body fell. </span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Danteshwari mandir holds the tooth of Sati devi (Dant means teeth in Sanskrit) and is a very important pilgrimage center. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiR70492RYsNjLBivRHMwtnetBhDa8i2CClxp_XguLXbP3TTUKSTHLIhqdLwWJJobBI3DAQVO_k3-iCUIJMhExrpGoj8vzL_ijzZmn2FMMsHKaTklYNPUeqUC9gidn8u6pfCUKo6m6Li0lFr1QV8FY238HuHlt8pCzS2UbKpSQl3kQdNH9vMsJSv5yYaw/s3093/20230126_200316.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3093" height="626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiR70492RYsNjLBivRHMwtnetBhDa8i2CClxp_XguLXbP3TTUKSTHLIhqdLwWJJobBI3DAQVO_k3-iCUIJMhExrpGoj8vzL_ijzZmn2FMMsHKaTklYNPUeqUC9gidn8u6pfCUKo6m6Li0lFr1QV8FY238HuHlt8pCzS2UbKpSQl3kQdNH9vMsJSv5yYaw/w640-h626/20230126_200316.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Danteshwari mandir in Dantewada</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The image of Goddess Danteshwari in the garba gruha is carved in black stone. and there was quite a throng of devotees since it was a public holiday on the 26th of January. I sat in the shade and did this sketch as curious people gathered around to take a look at what I was doing. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;">My next stop was Barsur which was many centuries ago an important site with around 147 temples dating back to the 11th century built by the Nagavamsa dynasty. It is located around 80 kms from the main town of Jagdalpur and on the banks of the river Indravati. Currently, there are only around three or four temples, that too in ruins which can be visited. The first is the Mama-Bhanja temple believed to have been built by sculptors, an Uncle- nephew duo in a record time of 24 hours. The second is the Battisa temple, a Shiva temple with 32 pillars (battees is 32 in Hindi). The third is the twin Ganesha idols probably part of a temple earlier.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2019/02/cuisine-of-lepchas-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like to read my blog post on the cuisine of the Lepcha tribe</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczmu7Pjo3XJOUHUHRPoua_Rx1j0khQ0cWF_ausIRGGCIINuywaqBhZpIz2Hj8RQZcQQgG3rMFXtSAb-058Q-vVY0SnRzWdm3tRw42Gd0LgabXeQxH0bRwy7fWd0NgqaBpo9TxJtHdCERb-WjXoNY4wrN1P6GGaK_zznBA5oXfBd10hJeG6j3lkkeYR2Q/s4032/20230126_144233-ad.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczmu7Pjo3XJOUHUHRPoua_Rx1j0khQ0cWF_ausIRGGCIINuywaqBhZpIz2Hj8RQZcQQgG3rMFXtSAb-058Q-vVY0SnRzWdm3tRw42Gd0LgabXeQxH0bRwy7fWd0NgqaBpo9TxJtHdCERb-WjXoNY4wrN1P6GGaK_zznBA5oXfBd10hJeG6j3lkkeYR2Q/w640-h480/20230126_144233-ad.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The Mama-Bhanja temple</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br />The Battisa temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and located in tye Barsur town of Dantewada. The inscriptions in the temple mention that the <span face=""Open Sans", sans-serif" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Someshwara and Gangadeshwara temples were constructed in the year 1209 by Queen Ganga Mahadevi of the Nagavansha dynasty. The queen and her KIng husband separately worshipped in the temple hence there are two scared Shivalingas. The presence of two Shivalingas is what makes this temple unique. </span></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE1QBk0q3KGSWboKkj_PeMwXuou4GIunwPQugk24fiQQsZMvIoBNExyZD7vpgKa9y6pb_PNj87qvosPROzL7Cn5EyUPngmyX8qgEIxcb9JZNRUjmOipBLpQxxCOmKDCMPmV6zRgE7BUsqFhcTHel5BaowtZyYFHP3zwmed1W7cjH7NTFT681ASSf4xAM/s4032/20230126_151436.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE1QBk0q3KGSWboKkj_PeMwXuou4GIunwPQugk24fiQQsZMvIoBNExyZD7vpgKa9y6pb_PNj87qvosPROzL7Cn5EyUPngmyX8qgEIxcb9JZNRUjmOipBLpQxxCOmKDCMPmV6zRgE7BUsqFhcTHel5BaowtZyYFHP3zwmed1W7cjH7NTFT681ASSf4xAM/w640-h480/20230126_151436.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The Battisa temple with 32 pillars </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><br />The twin Ganesha idols are the 3rd largest sandstone figures of Ganesha in the world. </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-iLmOczNyIoHt8zoq8SJ1Vk6PJd2Q_WSaEcwgZTWeF2LajG6-aMuD5Y3k-B0mZgRvH7j4bUMZRDRrQ6mDGH1JEiOdTlR361x9hJOIe923OYU9F4wCh6fOdgzKkuUjpTdODJtVfdsb85kCe-iAvQpy_X8Q3Xkoicl3CyWMdee1qfy2c5dGKQchkLTW0vg/s792/326285681_701664121607804_3268039285779802982_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="792" height="620" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-iLmOczNyIoHt8zoq8SJ1Vk6PJd2Q_WSaEcwgZTWeF2LajG6-aMuD5Y3k-B0mZgRvH7j4bUMZRDRrQ6mDGH1JEiOdTlR361x9hJOIe923OYU9F4wCh6fOdgzKkuUjpTdODJtVfdsb85kCe-iAvQpy_X8Q3Xkoicl3CyWMdee1qfy2c5dGKQchkLTW0vg/w640-h620/326285681_701664121607804_3268039285779802982_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Me sketching the Nandi.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqkh6lahMNpTiuL1WCucryAb8UxmutjRo1LBzMOrDgK9x-q5PpXSW87MfJb3Ce5ZAwXOL05QVVT1Tso9Av-IuAjQzOq4dO3f508POorWOTmUV3jNxWF2MDT3XJeN1WorwOA6nNvJqrczctI2yasvqRDDtp16wnTJ48vYPoMLw3Y9k9lNlD0k1VKA9i4Q/s3774/Twin%20Ganesh%20cropped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3774" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqkh6lahMNpTiuL1WCucryAb8UxmutjRo1LBzMOrDgK9x-q5PpXSW87MfJb3Ce5ZAwXOL05QVVT1Tso9Av-IuAjQzOq4dO3f508POorWOTmUV3jNxWF2MDT3XJeN1WorwOA6nNvJqrczctI2yasvqRDDtp16wnTJ48vYPoMLw3Y9k9lNlD0k1VKA9i4Q/w512-h640/Twin%20Ganesh%20cropped.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NoFZWhGde2a8v8F1w8HrpLzZdG1QkHVyiiuR7z1BGvKKT1Yfhp50_0gGSJD5-lxOg-Kju0hLjlkxrvzyqh02XDQCMs6ktyPbRkd4SMnJCysYM9VKYQN-y-C-3YjZQub4ahdDiFC_WinT-wTiMKghyphenhyphenRWmR967pS6Pus0wLOqWecASTX5_MKwCX_VGmos/s4032/20230126_141013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NoFZWhGde2a8v8F1w8HrpLzZdG1QkHVyiiuR7z1BGvKKT1Yfhp50_0gGSJD5-lxOg-Kju0hLjlkxrvzyqh02XDQCMs6ktyPbRkd4SMnJCysYM9VKYQN-y-C-3YjZQub4ahdDiFC_WinT-wTiMKghyphenhyphenRWmR967pS6Pus0wLOqWecASTX5_MKwCX_VGmos/w640-h480/20230126_141013.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;">The next stop was Madarkonta Caves. I was apprehensive about entering the Madarkonta caves after seeing the photos online because there are no steps so one has to walk and crawl over big boulders and narrow passages inside. But a little coaxing from my guides encouraged me to give it a try. A local guide from the Maria tribe named Benjan guided us. That's him holding my sketch. The outside of the cave was beautiful with sedimentary rocks stacked on top of each other. We reached a large chamber inside and I sat to meditate for a few minutes. The guides had put off their torch light and upon opening my eyes there was not a speck of light. Just beautiful darkness and my breath. Such a unique experience. </span></div><div><span face="Segoe UI Historic, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AgmKg-FofWA1L95akC1k1CvA0oEJSOXSeoECSa-CZOmImwBKfwXp-3CL-vC6sFGHdKcNRkKmWsMpK3XuM20Ukr7sqhtWFRVYbJ81zSlAdU7Lyh64ybwRek4QmRibLLL9t_TeBJdsFh_3TTJ9MnByRZ3ZBH0wNWjT-67TPQCOV17jeNLBfs4wIMj9CSU/s3264/20230127_100625.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AgmKg-FofWA1L95akC1k1CvA0oEJSOXSeoECSa-CZOmImwBKfwXp-3CL-vC6sFGHdKcNRkKmWsMpK3XuM20Ukr7sqhtWFRVYbJ81zSlAdU7Lyh64ybwRek4QmRibLLL9t_TeBJdsFh_3TTJ9MnByRZ3ZBH0wNWjT-67TPQCOV17jeNLBfs4wIMj9CSU/w640-h480/20230127_100625.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to the Madarkonta caves</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8dtKourKeBRIq0kG-39rgFPKigs-IRoC0zzp3EgBcr5x90tAwRAeF0phGbMo8zR3m9FVfUiUJUBwhdZ_x6Z23HoAmMl4bGMMU7V2W-yLmfd10sv3JkkLOyNUOmEupMkc23QAFrg7QSAAlSEyBIdyruLHzzf3tqBRDBtoLas1NqiNaC6dJO_6hpCC-PGc/s4032/20230127_103011.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8dtKourKeBRIq0kG-39rgFPKigs-IRoC0zzp3EgBcr5x90tAwRAeF0phGbMo8zR3m9FVfUiUJUBwhdZ_x6Z23HoAmMl4bGMMU7V2W-yLmfd10sv3JkkLOyNUOmEupMkc23QAFrg7QSAAlSEyBIdyruLHzzf3tqBRDBtoLas1NqiNaC6dJO_6hpCC-PGc/w640-h480/20230127_103011.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My guide inside the cave, Benjan. He is hoping to join the Army.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1Hlrzp_dCucf5KwZDGJ7dJ4wc9XOk5COla1peQGAsWFDXUXrarAqsrBmlziYGT5tUHZWbKGy9to32iCuMP8KdBa4Mgbt8c5KIIyMR-8zFJI0Oys1FUU4N8sW527akTJgl7-I9H_m8AKQFzmuoW3e3V-iRVVXbftL4j-lJ9vEUqqmJasmguVutPp8l7s/s774/328110129_2021356611387686_6512624309038756997_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1Hlrzp_dCucf5KwZDGJ7dJ4wc9XOk5COla1peQGAsWFDXUXrarAqsrBmlziYGT5tUHZWbKGy9to32iCuMP8KdBa4Mgbt8c5KIIyMR-8zFJI0Oys1FUU4N8sW527akTJgl7-I9H_m8AKQFzmuoW3e3V-iRVVXbftL4j-lJ9vEUqqmJasmguVutPp8l7s/w636-h640/328110129_2021356611387686_6512624309038756997_n.jpg" width="636" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meditating inside the cave. My guide took this photo. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YFGLV932Nn-v7Wxy4hmmNFivUH7vUCE7PKn1QsD5Y_hVhUzLVa-dr0KSrFYEvwqXbrBAKd-tORqqROH9aebO2l-GFwgqWUF6HD2XESunt2I-fd9993NByP_M-iI2M0ETVy_rNrfKcZcX2FV4JG4KHf75R3Uoh26npW-PPp7NzqUyKcM8dhVDw0B360A/s775/327441750_601707055302705_8524376366322588377_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YFGLV932Nn-v7Wxy4hmmNFivUH7vUCE7PKn1QsD5Y_hVhUzLVa-dr0KSrFYEvwqXbrBAKd-tORqqROH9aebO2l-GFwgqWUF6HD2XESunt2I-fd9993NByP_M-iI2M0ETVy_rNrfKcZcX2FV4JG4KHf75R3Uoh26npW-PPp7NzqUyKcM8dhVDw0B360A/w634-h640/327441750_601707055302705_8524376366322588377_n.jpg" width="634" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the cave.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">After the unique cave experience, we spent some refreshing time by a rivulet, with birds chirping around and the sound of water. </span></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qxTkirI0Q72sC9NQwjW8ADYs8Q5GX9ucCkAiZfhBqWO7Zo5aG01ScN9CSC5aWSho7zDrNAWBCMTe3017lrhXR0FXrX5fmwl26TJ1zhhJWH_We3_jvvxdFCk1DpblPXiCGpl3dP7G_a9MsCD-sn59KvTmYRQLgDt8LX2saNNaBiz0oIDMx9sUf6lzXEY/s4032/20230127_110652.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qxTkirI0Q72sC9NQwjW8ADYs8Q5GX9ucCkAiZfhBqWO7Zo5aG01ScN9CSC5aWSho7zDrNAWBCMTe3017lrhXR0FXrX5fmwl26TJ1zhhJWH_We3_jvvxdFCk1DpblPXiCGpl3dP7G_a9MsCD-sn59KvTmYRQLgDt8LX2saNNaBiz0oIDMx9sUf6lzXEY/w640-h480/20230127_110652.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">A picturesque scene by the rivulet</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">After the refreshing time in the shade, it was time to face the scorching sun at Tirathgarh waterfalls. The waterfalls are around 35 kms away from Jagdalpur and cascade down from a height of 100 feet. I sat under the burning sun to sketch this while my guide shooed away monkeys who were trying to grab my colour palette, thinking it was food. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NPPALVCJtW8VBA732Quo1NmXFWDgXqELJrOZ7KIEncDC0zCZuoc5EfN3DhiybTBAcHnOobp-trGwnttVAqy-9Ug_WrKmqqB3zAld6iqmU9ja6vAlhCLQNtmpH3ox5dKkw48mhEXmO6VKIh4HhT39isFywoDJ3aEhSOC8ZzQlAaoBhPYYrvdtcgNk7Yc/s4032/20230127_123723.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tirathgarh waterfalls" border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NPPALVCJtW8VBA732Quo1NmXFWDgXqELJrOZ7KIEncDC0zCZuoc5EfN3DhiybTBAcHnOobp-trGwnttVAqy-9Ug_WrKmqqB3zAld6iqmU9ja6vAlhCLQNtmpH3ox5dKkw48mhEXmO6VKIh4HhT39isFywoDJ3aEhSOC8ZzQlAaoBhPYYrvdtcgNk7Yc/w640-h480/20230127_123723.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">The Tirathgarh waterfalls.</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NgWEUiVMwjzkCpo6RkBfPXpCWX4PasNXlKc2zHtH2w0seHLUvRvl6ADFvFz1WCaCzWDlPT7ZIZtKZbfG1P3ilCayObvguY7PefIRC2MRF5YrCqo-i807WB-Rx66aubwhn4oEIImtqXp7ZfZh-oKeFshVxJwUEUghA5uV_4A2ZWbMbmRfdZiRZxyDZbw/s4032/20230127_120516.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NgWEUiVMwjzkCpo6RkBfPXpCWX4PasNXlKc2zHtH2w0seHLUvRvl6ADFvFz1WCaCzWDlPT7ZIZtKZbfG1P3ilCayObvguY7PefIRC2MRF5YrCqo-i807WB-Rx66aubwhn4oEIImtqXp7ZfZh-oKeFshVxJwUEUghA5uV_4A2ZWbMbmRfdZiRZxyDZbw/w640-h480/20230127_120516.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Some herostones or Veergal near the waterfalls</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhtuVfwX_EtNL5sM_OCD4mF1TuWB_kdYryZ50XFlKQV5agGvvlR6Hm2dr1lwDC1_tMo0cyJxDAQ35z6Oi929vs8DZHN5aZoEOAaNWBpVa_D-CFhQjgpBnLTJIcZjFR_z2s7Ma9MDz3bVvVHtuMGiUco9TuW5CC1XThp6QNY68KMYXz0dxOaTN_M-q70A/s4032/20230127_120535.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhtuVfwX_EtNL5sM_OCD4mF1TuWB_kdYryZ50XFlKQV5agGvvlR6Hm2dr1lwDC1_tMo0cyJxDAQ35z6Oi929vs8DZHN5aZoEOAaNWBpVa_D-CFhQjgpBnLTJIcZjFR_z2s7Ma9MDz3bVvVHtuMGiUco9TuW5CC1XThp6QNY68KMYXz0dxOaTN_M-q70A/w640-h480/20230127_120535.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-size: medium;">Tirathgarh waterfalls</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">After sketching at the Tirathgarh waterfalls, we visited a tribal market. Having visited tribal markets in Koraput, Odisha, I was looking forward to experiencing it. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">Some tribal communities in Chhattisgarh eat red ants as part of their diet. The red ants grow in abundance on Sal and Mango trees. They form nests by joining large leaves and lay their eggs inside. The tribal people collect these large clutches of ants plus their eggs and make a chutney (dip) out of it. It is locally called Chaapda. The chutney is made by crushing the ants and eggs live along with garlic, ginger, salt and whatever seasoning they fancy and eaten with rice and lentils. This dish is high on protein and believed to offer immunity against flu, malaria, etc. I saw this beautiful tribal woman selling ants out of leaf cups in a market. She broke into a smile upon seeing her sketch. And just in case you are curious, no, I didn't eat the ants </span><span class="x3nfvp2 x1j61x8r x1fcty0u xdj266r xhhsvwb xat24cr xgzva0m xxymvpz xlup9mm x1kky2od" style="background-color: white; display: inline-flex; height: 16px; margin: 0px 1px; vertical-align: middle; white-space: pre-wrap; width: 16px;"><img alt="đ" class="xz74otr" height="16" referrerpolicy="origin-when-cross-origin" src="https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/t4f/1/16/1f601.png" style="border: 0px; object-fit: fill;" width="16" /></span><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"> last photo of the close up of the ants taken by my guide. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/12/the-brokpas-of-garkon-sketch-travelogue.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like my blog post on the Brokpa tribe of Ladakh</span></a>.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPzuQ8zzbmak4DNakj1_uBjgkS8lJ7WUS2k7uJ5BT313C0W6o5eO90Ci92iry55of8b96KR9rrgPjDrvBkVXBOXVbBOSR8TrCIV5uwZj5ZHpr5UlLBW89TbICz4mnplG9oP72NLc_yrxCw0xongv4d3WZZe9HD2ND9F8GyN6ob8LmddXjE9jrfhV390s/s4032/20230127_151246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPzuQ8zzbmak4DNakj1_uBjgkS8lJ7WUS2k7uJ5BT313C0W6o5eO90Ci92iry55of8b96KR9rrgPjDrvBkVXBOXVbBOSR8TrCIV5uwZj5ZHpr5UlLBW89TbICz4mnplG9oP72NLc_yrxCw0xongv4d3WZZe9HD2ND9F8GyN6ob8LmddXjE9jrfhV390s/w480-h640/20230127_151246.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyK-OShQ5CSnvEkb8OJUGpw0rRHVfq0zsDYgNoJ-EyOMrFuzdiKypkbHR9cJxWOvjK1DUQFeoTnfxi7dRe9h_VLIVE-aU27ZhS3sdHcC1EBxUET6uB1rnXXBUCfBbrITDfRjcPIzjm59khBu_DwzwwAX44GFmSnzUQSx_VDkEvk994MIzxyjt7gC2GoNQ/s4032/20230127_142211.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyK-OShQ5CSnvEkb8OJUGpw0rRHVfq0zsDYgNoJ-EyOMrFuzdiKypkbHR9cJxWOvjK1DUQFeoTnfxi7dRe9h_VLIVE-aU27ZhS3sdHcC1EBxUET6uB1rnXXBUCfBbrITDfRjcPIzjm59khBu_DwzwwAX44GFmSnzUQSx_VDkEvk994MIzxyjt7gC2GoNQ/w640-h480/20230127_142211.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Another interesting thing I sampled was the Mahua alcohol<span style="text-align: center;"> which is one of the oldest indigenous alcohols in India. The Mahua tree grows abundantly in central, western and eastern India. And the tribal communities such as the Gonds, Santhals, Dhuruwa, etc worship it as the Tree of Life. Every part of the tree- flowes, branches, leaves are used by the tribals in some form or the other. The mahua tree as well as the alcohol was inextricably linked to tribal life for centuries until the British banned it citing it as a health hazard (how ridiculous!). Probably this is the only alcohol made from sweet mahua flowers over a laborious 8 day process. This lady from whom I bought the alcohol was also making cups out of large leaves to drink the liquid from. I saw several groups of women coming, buying their share and sitting and chatting away. My guide explained this is their version of a kitty party. Women come for shopping in the market, catch up with friends over a glass of liquor ad have a good time. Women are the same everywhere.</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeuXhZTSGLOUan0IIEz8cOVjx8AMGnmf4z2H636NLRmtJFN5GFtwRTOiZ583VuSJMTpU87wPiwm0mfniKFfgNnjK5SvvKoxSgbYW9kCWMuDYdf0mLd_5E_sfDwVEIq4qrgQtJtzvOyDDmcI0046sKlkSJtArx5Te_dQ4dbQhFac7iF89PtMg6GWoW7fw/s4032/20230127_142847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeuXhZTSGLOUan0IIEz8cOVjx8AMGnmf4z2H636NLRmtJFN5GFtwRTOiZ583VuSJMTpU87wPiwm0mfniKFfgNnjK5SvvKoxSgbYW9kCWMuDYdf0mLd_5E_sfDwVEIq4qrgQtJtzvOyDDmcI0046sKlkSJtArx5Te_dQ4dbQhFac7iF89PtMg6GWoW7fw/w640-h480/20230127_142847.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCi3pYwGxvyhPEVf_0PoiJEOBAQX4OESSTL0336kQAtJZI_yztp0-TIJwrRHQ6quf68gvGZNqGrK3V26OAx50dBIaxPHPH8FuzYbUTl78Evsjpc1siJwJrHlGkumbqW4Gc2WKkC10TuwS3L_nKcF4YjO4bZXz5zx_RSHXY-QApAhFgT_zePd15EA_kKYw/s4032/20230127_144822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCi3pYwGxvyhPEVf_0PoiJEOBAQX4OESSTL0336kQAtJZI_yztp0-TIJwrRHQ6quf68gvGZNqGrK3V26OAx50dBIaxPHPH8FuzYbUTl78Evsjpc1siJwJrHlGkumbqW4Gc2WKkC10TuwS3L_nKcF4YjO4bZXz5zx_RSHXY-QApAhFgT_zePd15EA_kKYw/w480-h640/20230127_144822.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyV-9FFsNTA_MVZ5SJJ15drF0nATnlCYI7xuWG1yIAjXm3XzLME4WMmhJCHjmSZOmAN-_gHo0UARFkQCAi1YZpoccpZ06ZbyjDGzJZNCEPro-RRfua5s9y3_fAMGXzW7RRAZScqcEMw8rdymeFY49UHaiUG0G280I023MDX6YJPWJBMf0DNaiizMYO_w/s4000/1679397207731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyV-9FFsNTA_MVZ5SJJ15drF0nATnlCYI7xuWG1yIAjXm3XzLME4WMmhJCHjmSZOmAN-_gHo0UARFkQCAi1YZpoccpZ06ZbyjDGzJZNCEPro-RRfua5s9y3_fAMGXzW7RRAZScqcEMw8rdymeFY49UHaiUG0G280I023MDX6YJPWJBMf0DNaiizMYO_w/w480-h640/1679397207731.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: center;">That's me drinking mahua alcohol from a leaf cup. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: center;">I saw women and men selling heaps of dried mahua, which people buy and make alcohol in their own homes. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUOQo27GoiBuRkZK9HicU6Qpi4JCwFs6o5vN3vxRfG8x3lEegVul5lD0q659PnUZuofNdw5NHlVxVdljSsPDJOqh5H2ajBgSMSxKqCJ9nEqcg9SEDwluIhl-AhI43Dl3sAgFVuJlLTh_nEm0V_DomnC9S-ZLWzRpCyjyvBuewyc8hEkzlw6y1HBQtQaM/s4032/20230127_155303.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUOQo27GoiBuRkZK9HicU6Qpi4JCwFs6o5vN3vxRfG8x3lEegVul5lD0q659PnUZuofNdw5NHlVxVdljSsPDJOqh5H2ajBgSMSxKqCJ9nEqcg9SEDwluIhl-AhI43Dl3sAgFVuJlLTh_nEm0V_DomnC9S-ZLWzRpCyjyvBuewyc8hEkzlw6y1HBQtQaM/w640-h480/20230127_155303.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAooP7VVmqqmf6cbO9_wRQkK71bLuBFPiU5yB1dflRZkLDLscFVmq15dtlCKbgbX1-l9bnt_WViuj02p_em8AUV3C7PNDQ8jg3P0oFlBm-BQilpkCQxxb29UlUqUMC7v5os6C2hyQr7NrAb6SqWMxn3SpCvjz3mWALJnxKdhsv5IJHW6kTIW5Vn-6ZdQ/s4032/20230127_155405.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAooP7VVmqqmf6cbO9_wRQkK71bLuBFPiU5yB1dflRZkLDLscFVmq15dtlCKbgbX1-l9bnt_WViuj02p_em8AUV3C7PNDQ8jg3P0oFlBm-BQilpkCQxxb29UlUqUMC7v5os6C2hyQr7NrAb6SqWMxn3SpCvjz3mWALJnxKdhsv5IJHW6kTIW5Vn-6ZdQ/w640-h480/20230127_155405.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjurEtB-dIv_jRTuKaqdVSDJKXyqLzOeW-nNKLxYevayhMB3LZFzpQfksa1by3yefQylZpiDPSyNEXyJwhn2SLHrI53wE3AysTM-e7RaeAFm6enE9oc3lMnE-g0dDZwTC3_8HSHAMCfBB0BV3VH7N4kXGJ0xSRj_XTcsPH7kbgxKOIc6RCU9zhG7lLTWAc/s4032/20230127_155806.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjurEtB-dIv_jRTuKaqdVSDJKXyqLzOeW-nNKLxYevayhMB3LZFzpQfksa1by3yefQylZpiDPSyNEXyJwhn2SLHrI53wE3AysTM-e7RaeAFm6enE9oc3lMnE-g0dDZwTC3_8HSHAMCfBB0BV3VH7N4kXGJ0xSRj_XTcsPH7kbgxKOIc6RCU9zhG7lLTWAc/w480-h640/20230127_155806.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: center;">I returned to Bastar and in the morning visited another Danteshwari mandir next to the Bastar Palace.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmqj33Wtsb3FEA13ZhDrUAOWSx2FDa-Gx4QgueI-Q0zA1Pyq8rhjCLcLSQ8GYoCd7eEl2r0FZUw1EdmZVI8_27UTG-0ppLbZtSipg6ZWqhonhP02UJxp-PUuh3DVKXU-Kakg3DEhpsCjZgvqMnxCoJct4cgU5nFfBXh_lqMmbrSPSklVHdDTYILH-T28/s3586/20230130_185539.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3586" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmqj33Wtsb3FEA13ZhDrUAOWSx2FDa-Gx4QgueI-Q0zA1Pyq8rhjCLcLSQ8GYoCd7eEl2r0FZUw1EdmZVI8_27UTG-0ppLbZtSipg6ZWqhonhP02UJxp-PUuh3DVKXU-Kakg3DEhpsCjZgvqMnxCoJct4cgU5nFfBXh_lqMmbrSPSklVHdDTYILH-T28/w640-h540/20230130_185539.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium; text-align: center;">We then visited the Narayanpur temple, the only temple dedicated to Sri Vishnu in the area. </span></div><span class="x3nfvp2 x1j61x8r x1fcty0u xdj266r xhhsvwb xat24cr xgzva0m xxymvpz xlup9mm x1kky2od" face=""Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; display: inline-flex; font-size: medium; height: 16px; margin: 0px 1px; text-align: start; vertical-align: middle; white-space: pre-wrap; width: 16px;"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wBXvCahMldev_BLR-yWpo3MX9rRtfoxnANXdc6zqI1Brg09JUryPN2wadOcRcz9nj-psssQJs_5L7rtiSYUuawb-c6vsOL1wZZAP2052bTm86mudcq9tOVxPQESznhzP1bw-3YN-YGEVQsjqS5DSiafQCTwDRUZlmdCtIPcY0ABcBNVjPAPIAxAPZco/s4032/20230130_122520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wBXvCahMldev_BLR-yWpo3MX9rRtfoxnANXdc6zqI1Brg09JUryPN2wadOcRcz9nj-psssQJs_5L7rtiSYUuawb-c6vsOL1wZZAP2052bTm86mudcq9tOVxPQESznhzP1bw-3YN-YGEVQsjqS5DSiafQCTwDRUZlmdCtIPcY0ABcBNVjPAPIAxAPZco/w640-h480/20230130_122520.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;">On the way to the Bastar Shiv mandir, we stopped for lunch at a small eatery run by the local tribal village women. Food was served in leaf bowls, the ultimate sustainable method. What impressed me was that they had UPI digital payment. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh38_AWnpZtresp5RH6Pcn__EbAT0VdLmAklGv7YQfeJWLszogCYCC6QWKSMemerZUfIYoWoL1f9C1hci4eF9Q9jSqvGiDfB3oobvqgJqg2EPl_gOUaCy-lJhmhz0cUAO-5S4XPOJ-N9CM-r3AaPJNTBOm0daLbhxIy5fkJ1XVn8wUXAUhqPzzkUoMvUr0/s4032/20230130_142431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh38_AWnpZtresp5RH6Pcn__EbAT0VdLmAklGv7YQfeJWLszogCYCC6QWKSMemerZUfIYoWoL1f9C1hci4eF9Q9jSqvGiDfB3oobvqgJqg2EPl_gOUaCy-lJhmhz0cUAO-5S4XPOJ-N9CM-r3AaPJNTBOm0daLbhxIy5fkJ1XVn8wUXAUhqPzzkUoMvUr0/w640-h480/20230130_142431.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYYfLvB6FoRMryvw4maduIUstEz2kqjXLJsQ8Exni3qgJLJ992YocrkoqirBcvZ5tKDDdH2i_yIxPZMvC-57DVksnmPXCiVsyDNqC2YCApSttK0i4ulia6A10eY50DSk6TI3QByZHXK05mb_cltq31cJyftAXeRFUdYxAkBXEh19QiZOhdHhLNDfZpDvs/s3024/20230130_185443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="2927" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYYfLvB6FoRMryvw4maduIUstEz2kqjXLJsQ8Exni3qgJLJ992YocrkoqirBcvZ5tKDDdH2i_yIxPZMvC-57DVksnmPXCiVsyDNqC2YCApSttK0i4ulia6A10eY50DSk6TI3QByZHXK05mb_cltq31cJyftAXeRFUdYxAkBXEh19QiZOhdHhLNDfZpDvs/w620-h640/20230130_185443.jpg" width="620" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I sketched the view next to this eatery. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsWfOBnh1K8NjLlxmP4hZ2o9UwaHUgoxvwupbpDTEuz8NSj96lqcRH_VqyxDPjLq2fduiF5hIao9N0iQXFTQvIcyUI6iS9dVO70qYv_rAzAgYWsKcz-9myTLNdC0QYZJtqOzeYis9Pxc2t4Apq31544-tmRp0quf_ep-Zxvflgm7y_Qvqf0rQhOy8joSw/s3264/20230130_141741.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsWfOBnh1K8NjLlxmP4hZ2o9UwaHUgoxvwupbpDTEuz8NSj96lqcRH_VqyxDPjLq2fduiF5hIao9N0iQXFTQvIcyUI6iS9dVO70qYv_rAzAgYWsKcz-9myTLNdC0QYZJtqOzeYis9Pxc2t4Apq31544-tmRp0quf_ep-Zxvflgm7y_Qvqf0rQhOy8joSw/w640-h480/20230130_141741.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I stayed at a village-run homestay near Chitrakote waterfalls. The house was made of mud and the room was quite simple and comfortable. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGp1XSylYqvycfUpAjcWUb6iUJ74eY3FGkmbd7CXtpBpnvVNGAE7xyk69lIoFqvNhOpUo_e0oBn7yHDyDcgrZ2zgeMW8NRelyK9Brd7lqkHx4_LA12Z9OEvW4MF8M2vFE9Sovi26r2uWiV8_nsLkvUbfVCBp5ghA6LcKu2YC4Bfy5eBN_GMu6lrYce9M/s4032/20230130_160542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGp1XSylYqvycfUpAjcWUb6iUJ74eY3FGkmbd7CXtpBpnvVNGAE7xyk69lIoFqvNhOpUo_e0oBn7yHDyDcgrZ2zgeMW8NRelyK9Brd7lqkHx4_LA12Z9OEvW4MF8M2vFE9Sovi26r2uWiV8_nsLkvUbfVCBp5ghA6LcKu2YC4Bfy5eBN_GMu6lrYce9M/w640-h480/20230130_160542.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Chitrakote waterfalls is horse shoe shaped and is compared with the Niagara waterfalls. The local people don't appreciate that comparison though. I agree because each place is unique. The waterfall is also worshipped by the local people. My guide @akashwithsky explained that many from Bastar may not be able to go to the Ganga river which is very holy for Hindus so they offer their prayers to the Chitrakote waters instead. The best time to visit the waterfalls in its roaring glory is after the Monsoon , from August to November. What I saw now is a mere trickle compared to what it looks like in its full form.</span></div><div><span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/05/my-experience-with-kalaripayattu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like my blog post on the ancient martial arts form Kalaripayattu</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></a></span></span></div><div><span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmv2qqMiuNIKRD7IlG5Rl0HwHrLd9nkjEEEPitQP3TTKWU0EmcQlF52qtMGfhiDoICXXZC8SLVQhCHR0AMYB9_tj7l30__IVMUnmJ_KqxV0oQeIcia-ayA7WiGkXapTiXpkHdE9zthfc-GIgJsmfJ90dfpr-RklqBYMsXXc6v7pUHaSWlPWf3KUq_5Qds/s4032/20230130_180101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmv2qqMiuNIKRD7IlG5Rl0HwHrLd9nkjEEEPitQP3TTKWU0EmcQlF52qtMGfhiDoICXXZC8SLVQhCHR0AMYB9_tj7l30__IVMUnmJ_KqxV0oQeIcia-ayA7WiGkXapTiXpkHdE9zthfc-GIgJsmfJ90dfpr-RklqBYMsXXc6v7pUHaSWlPWf3KUq_5Qds/w640-h480/20230130_180101.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPzRrZ7QRvJRgZNBqgw4PFLbJRfkqM4GzCUvwC51LXumMFDrOrbxblf0jDOyMmj8PNCbiQ0OFZDv-I5eok718DJ3GxAJcvvoscrwnC9IvaGoEOnRIyEMMDHg_BHgsCr8mhCyMBEzWoyfyNyJRWkkEQQnNqbr8ONs04WaHHGk-eOkyjvNoepPJxq_KSyU/s1080/00-Introduction%20page.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="1080" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPzRrZ7QRvJRgZNBqgw4PFLbJRfkqM4GzCUvwC51LXumMFDrOrbxblf0jDOyMmj8PNCbiQ0OFZDv-I5eok718DJ3GxAJcvvoscrwnC9IvaGoEOnRIyEMMDHg_BHgsCr8mhCyMBEzWoyfyNyJRWkkEQQnNqbr8ONs04WaHHGk-eOkyjvNoepPJxq_KSyU/w640-h600/00-Introduction%20page.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I also visited a few artisans in Bastar. The first was the Dhokra artisans. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;">The lost wax casting technique or Dhokra art as it is called in India, has been in continuous existence here since around 5000 years from the Indus Valley Civilization. One of the earliest figurines discovered from the IVC is that of the 'Dancing Girl'. I had the opportunity to visit the Dhokra artisans in Kondagaon, Chhattisgarh. First, a clay core is made in the form the desired final image. Over it is applied a layer of wax, shaped and carved intricately. The wax is a mix of beeswax, resin and a bit of charcoal. This is again covered with clay, which takes the negative form of the wax from inside, becoming a mould for the metal that will be poured inside it. Holes are left in the mould for the molten wax to drain when the clay is cooked. The wax is replaced by the molten brass. The liquid metal hardens between the innermost clay core and the inner surface of the outer mould. After it cools, the outer layer of clay is removed and the metal is polished. Dhokra art making still thrives in the states of Chhattisgarh, Odisha, and Bengal and I have quite a few pieces of Dhokra art that adorn my home. So glad to have an insider view of this ancient art. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhff75n4HrKBz52JV3W8uWKOJz3EJqDSAVUhw66v3UpyYtHpUoe1o_Ht72JuWM-tRF2k7U4EorWGnD8-YdmjaizZRhsZ5cN-HgUVgGq3yQyTVyIL5d6eaRdXPcb32f3UxKVIaVSifNxtDwY0VIj3Xs_VGKBhomkUjcOBM5LYkrfAmABtD3I5qO2-dNaB5w/s4032/20230131_130736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhff75n4HrKBz52JV3W8uWKOJz3EJqDSAVUhw66v3UpyYtHpUoe1o_Ht72JuWM-tRF2k7U4EorWGnD8-YdmjaizZRhsZ5cN-HgUVgGq3yQyTVyIL5d6eaRdXPcb32f3UxKVIaVSifNxtDwY0VIj3Xs_VGKBhomkUjcOBM5LYkrfAmABtD3I5qO2-dNaB5w/w480-h640/20230131_130736.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUFV6eWbXh63iIbR1Z1W6XvovcjGOK0CSizkSuGtvEaiwyRYU6bi7rfczRjze0gRlO6ZmY_YPzEQiteWujf6U71vaX1qlnXcX0pEWcfYxl-2T-LpDvQdPzrQAVoWu0QmHONnHxyXrfrKduxY1HEcKP3lGX-f00iCd0RWPW9nU9zTvO9iIiPROUfynNQVo/s4032/20230131_130939.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUFV6eWbXh63iIbR1Z1W6XvovcjGOK0CSizkSuGtvEaiwyRYU6bi7rfczRjze0gRlO6ZmY_YPzEQiteWujf6U71vaX1qlnXcX0pEWcfYxl-2T-LpDvQdPzrQAVoWu0QmHONnHxyXrfrKduxY1HEcKP3lGX-f00iCd0RWPW9nU9zTvO9iIiPROUfynNQVo/w640-h480/20230131_130939.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfG7sh7N2Ag-3Sl1L2SrCa9fBD2Ul2UosONCPNxPOckT9hQauq8oo6bl8gVDOytUGSvQPbEhSVvVQVhtqFvn-SjvTXgsFDVFsW11G2Bu280uaS4hC_WlPHb_7nSpvVuO6S5rkZH-xuUv2JD-tLIuO335-F9OkbD-S82aYp_LenbYfWutWmZcC0vKTgroA/s4032/20230131_130848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfG7sh7N2Ag-3Sl1L2SrCa9fBD2Ul2UosONCPNxPOckT9hQauq8oo6bl8gVDOytUGSvQPbEhSVvVQVhtqFvn-SjvTXgsFDVFsW11G2Bu280uaS4hC_WlPHb_7nSpvVuO6S5rkZH-xuUv2JD-tLIuO335-F9OkbD-S82aYp_LenbYfWutWmZcC0vKTgroA/w480-h640/20230131_130848.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span face=""Segoe UI Historic", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bastar is known for its terracotta art. I visited the National award winning potter-artist Shri. Ashok Chakradhari at his workshop-cum-residence. There is a custom amongst the tribal communities of Bastar, of offering votive figures to Mother Nature whom they worship. The clay for the terracotta is sourced from river banks and strained to get rid of impurities. It is then mixed with sand and kneaded in a machine to make it smooth and then poured into vats to allow it to settle. The Votive terracotta figures are hollow and are made with multiple cylinders and pots of various shapes. For eg, the head, trunk and legs of the elephant are made separately and then joined with mud. Geru or red oxide is used to impart a reddish tint to the clay. After joining the various parts of the figure, it is further decorated with pieces of clay and then baked in a kiln at temperatures ranging from 700° to 900° C. Check the pictures of the finished products.</span></span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwx0nGEZbjo3F0dUYXPJuOGK9EYH1OzMvkeqSYrspTGXE5X9Vxxu3mTzEqMv_2DBcKbLyJA4tALzKBB-XEuGbkuYMJznezsmV_FtYOGQzU0a-Qc2upjEmJG6kct6YAj3IbgZd_7GNEPvd1MWbhfIoS2zMQeNKDSH9y6nI-eBUHMaRDmKUgkycdP0ByctU/s3412/20230204_123456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3412" data-original-width="2993" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwx0nGEZbjo3F0dUYXPJuOGK9EYH1OzMvkeqSYrspTGXE5X9Vxxu3mTzEqMv_2DBcKbLyJA4tALzKBB-XEuGbkuYMJznezsmV_FtYOGQzU0a-Qc2upjEmJG6kct6YAj3IbgZd_7GNEPvd1MWbhfIoS2zMQeNKDSH9y6nI-eBUHMaRDmKUgkycdP0ByctU/w562-h640/20230204_123456.jpg" width="562" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGsggLz8DypldeAiiJga5819IkSYKAExf0ReE-CceGUMqASDEpG4cHOYly-WB0LLObt2aDULH20VUqj3DYDv_rzBP-3fpSS6hqlFo048oZYktxjUlo7uE5t55iam57VxtZCr-qVD807yjHTDsbyYZt74mPKpbB_aUMvL8Ja1IPPgjDpnkqNbIDIKRfQc/s3321/20230204_123421.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3321" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGsggLz8DypldeAiiJga5819IkSYKAExf0ReE-CceGUMqASDEpG4cHOYly-WB0LLObt2aDULH20VUqj3DYDv_rzBP-3fpSS6hqlFo048oZYktxjUlo7uE5t55iam57VxtZCr-qVD807yjHTDsbyYZt74mPKpbB_aUMvL8Ja1IPPgjDpnkqNbIDIKRfQc/w582-h640/20230204_123421.jpg" width="582" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMRksIMPFt09i8ouh1rk1Zm6SsRwEAKvO-p-G4AIzNv47xlGxustAnMp_9pMzJXffNMIsyrnWJrSaFVK3CEjQlEfmxqu0bX4XGVfI4f2Ji32I4ubyXszI9qn9kOvbFvM9Tqpw1OZ-ldDAr9TpTNK3A4oQqEJLLJHoJn68VpepQsHFoKTfT0od_zU7XDo/s3480/20230204_123322.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3480" data-original-width="2930" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMRksIMPFt09i8ouh1rk1Zm6SsRwEAKvO-p-G4AIzNv47xlGxustAnMp_9pMzJXffNMIsyrnWJrSaFVK3CEjQlEfmxqu0bX4XGVfI4f2Ji32I4ubyXszI9qn9kOvbFvM9Tqpw1OZ-ldDAr9TpTNK3A4oQqEJLLJHoJn68VpepQsHFoKTfT0od_zU7XDo/w538-h640/20230204_123322.jpg" width="538" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlUKN5qkJ5YwT5sn1qVtjqv1Q2adFKzn7FV4NKStl_TWVhkSHEkzkDz-L1jqXONMtvjdgxDV9Qo_3D6KY6Otv5iQO3sXqHevAbLJXNK9mniUVPt0M0Z456ovkXSfUCji4Qziwlt7YQ1urEHTUQEdoNSqO8nb9FU9bQOnw-aI1NDPScrpozNIGcPN3evc/s3204/20230204_123529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3204" data-original-width="3005" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlUKN5qkJ5YwT5sn1qVtjqv1Q2adFKzn7FV4NKStl_TWVhkSHEkzkDz-L1jqXONMtvjdgxDV9Qo_3D6KY6Otv5iQO3sXqHevAbLJXNK9mniUVPt0M0Z456ovkXSfUCji4Qziwlt7YQ1urEHTUQEdoNSqO8nb9FU9bQOnw-aI1NDPScrpozNIGcPN3evc/w600-h640/20230204_123529.jpg" width="600" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span face="Segoe UI Historic, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif"><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">On the way, we visited the Bastar Shiva temple. Not much is known about this temple and the Archeological Survey of India seemed to be doing some renovation work. </span></span></span><p></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiNZVMNcB6OpH8_OYBoAh38Lqu8Mz2L0LXfE_LzdTOyCdxCJX_7mgSDcm5XkhhCgJeSwqQMLLq3XaEGGi7yUs2uS_X1fnJPphyphenhyphenA20IdADnATTmtYla6ZyothXjH5GZBUpycsKkq7Py44qKGTngvzLfpaf_68pP7QWwRY9qYpfor_BCScMk0uNNfN1A2s/s4032/20230201_105957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiNZVMNcB6OpH8_OYBoAh38Lqu8Mz2L0LXfE_LzdTOyCdxCJX_7mgSDcm5XkhhCgJeSwqQMLLq3XaEGGi7yUs2uS_X1fnJPphyphenhyphenA20IdADnATTmtYla6ZyothXjH5GZBUpycsKkq7Py44qKGTngvzLfpaf_68pP7QWwRY9qYpfor_BCScMk0uNNfN1A2s/w640-h480/20230201_105957.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">I visited the Anthropological Museum in Jagdalpur and saw these memory stones erected in memory of near and dear ones. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDn5OTHpqADIeiiZ6DppH4iQchJrOinWTfIcDSinbhhmkZaCFwv2gGUp5CiNl8jgNeec0_Z81i5xOLC6CHd09Ro-zj4pForHUaghiBrhpYlbtfFfTGmoV6YxrhueM4j4w6n5JmgNE1BxbfMDl12Voj5TEgG9OzBtMOJCo0clGRCsvDPWerpLJAqtlMBc/s4032/20230201_160409.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDn5OTHpqADIeiiZ6DppH4iQchJrOinWTfIcDSinbhhmkZaCFwv2gGUp5CiNl8jgNeec0_Z81i5xOLC6CHd09Ro-zj4pForHUaghiBrhpYlbtfFfTGmoV6YxrhueM4j4w6n5JmgNE1BxbfMDl12Voj5TEgG9OzBtMOJCo0clGRCsvDPWerpLJAqtlMBc/w480-h640/20230201_160409.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc4DnAKn__jkQa2sF_4WEMRBPe3dO6Y-zLy2SVufq5ghqeCUs3OQa2W-DJaxpPlwWpzzpEXHaqVowLz_qTFvsYpNKiT940h3ASUNlSENGg-YIOLQAntB5Nqov1hWWR04U7Ckib6zhUR_ZFwZN_H2Ft-ELqAHKSJxOWTYB0taj3PLhjcmXjm1sM-NYU20/s4032/20230201_160424.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc4DnAKn__jkQa2sF_4WEMRBPe3dO6Y-zLy2SVufq5ghqeCUs3OQa2W-DJaxpPlwWpzzpEXHaqVowLz_qTFvsYpNKiT940h3ASUNlSENGg-YIOLQAntB5Nqov1hWWR04U7Ckib6zhUR_ZFwZN_H2Ft-ELqAHKSJxOWTYB0taj3PLhjcmXjm1sM-NYU20/s320/20230201_160424.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Last but not least, I would like to mention my guide, Akash, who made sure I had a comfortable trip and with whom I rode a pillion on his scooter around Chhattisgarh. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf_o-KyeVGqllnPz4h00CSTbQ7bHYucA6BFY9pZZ_EbMGPNkeXMnblzo5TPamduHbZDaty2atcL8J9CeGK7RVEguUpyEautGtD7YL164LloRE-4aHKhfr_vccwA3mWWvNPlNpP4RGAOX5BT-WqtwVRyOPEjJJ26qeBf257qS9x3puEkSRuekLMrr2tXgs/s3680/20230202_111318.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3680" data-original-width="2887" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf_o-KyeVGqllnPz4h00CSTbQ7bHYucA6BFY9pZZ_EbMGPNkeXMnblzo5TPamduHbZDaty2atcL8J9CeGK7RVEguUpyEautGtD7YL164LloRE-4aHKhfr_vccwA3mWWvNPlNpP4RGAOX5BT-WqtwVRyOPEjJJ26qeBf257qS9x3puEkSRuekLMrr2tXgs/w502-h640/20230202_111318.jpg" width="502" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">I did this trip with </span><a href="https://www.unexploredbastar.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Unexplored Bastar</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, a travel company based on social entrepreneurship model. </span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; text-align: justify;">If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may subscribe to new posts updates via email. Enter your email id in the 'Follow by email' on the right hand side panel. </span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Also, follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Facebook</a><span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;"> and </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/purplesoulart/" style="background-color: white; text-align: justify; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span>Instagram</span></a><span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">. </span></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><br /></p></div>Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-66282481261753197682022-12-01T01:46:00.000-08:002023-12-13T03:12:30.049-08:00The Brokpas of Garkon- A Sketch Travelogue<p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00u9oHq8X7fznCdDBJMLfPU0SVjnjePS8M_tlU7BotInSN3vM-QTLlTg5KfhirIEUnyOxI_BUQVXpj0e4bIPZ62NkZFd7nI-ndxy8Yyhcgdf4zbpeqw66H9NDJBP-rp4BDxndQdT15pCPvsyhttoR8VmUae4F6KTECuwBE4KprnocgAnmavofhyq9Tfo/s1080/278969231_4954915117923536_4502891484269086073_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00u9oHq8X7fznCdDBJMLfPU0SVjnjePS8M_tlU7BotInSN3vM-QTLlTg5KfhirIEUnyOxI_BUQVXpj0e4bIPZ62NkZFd7nI-ndxy8Yyhcgdf4zbpeqw66H9NDJBP-rp4BDxndQdT15pCPvsyhttoR8VmUae4F6KTECuwBE4KprnocgAnmavofhyq9Tfo/w640-h640/278969231_4954915117923536_4502891484269086073_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brokpa girls</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">I spent five enriching days in Garkon, home to the Brokpa/Aryan/Dardic tribe, during the Apricot Blossom Festival in April 2022. My earlier plan was to spend two days in Garkon, but thanks to the bad experience in the Achinathang homestay (</span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/11/sketch-travelogue-of-leh-achinathang.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">read my previous blog</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">), I shortened my stay at Achinathang and spent two more days at Garkon. I took a bus from </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/11/sketch-travelogue-of-leh-achinathang.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Achinathang</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> to Garkon and reached the Payupa Guest House, run by Diskit and her husband Tashi Lundup. It is a multi-storied house with several rooms. Since I was traveling solo, they gave me a room on the ground floor with a shared bathroom and toilet. </span></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">This was the first sketch I did of the view outside. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Dip38BpD8IdQG46U_-EsaEDX9NW7zrTjX0V4tC4zMVthUWfuLhB3TarEEYshSUmLzA8e5tlMGSlUA0T6ewNIwTsVpEwLM_pr-Jj60ItNW2Q_oOjaB323_Gr5LyXO22C4dtH68YLsMBLv0RvyeBDNogudG3KLj0SheA1ZXPrXvODMTGeHFRdMC4qKOiU/s1080/14-%20Garkon%20village.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1080" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Dip38BpD8IdQG46U_-EsaEDX9NW7zrTjX0V4tC4zMVthUWfuLhB3TarEEYshSUmLzA8e5tlMGSlUA0T6ewNIwTsVpEwLM_pr-Jj60ItNW2Q_oOjaB323_Gr5LyXO22C4dtH68YLsMBLv0RvyeBDNogudG3KLj0SheA1ZXPrXvODMTGeHFRdMC4qKOiU/w640-h574/14-%20Garkon%20village.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Warming up for the Garkon sketch series</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-2c1bo" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I met a very interesting person in Garkon. He is the folk singer of the village, Sonam Wangyal, and was a storehouse of information about Brokpa culture and history. One thing he said was interesting. It was one of his relatives who had gone to graze his cattle on the border who discovered the infiltration of Pakistani terrorists on the border and informed the Indian Army, which eventually led to the Kargil war in 1999.</span></span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block61" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><div class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-eh6r1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br role="presentation" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); box-sizing: inherit;" /></span></span></span></div><div class="QHjDE rzoRKE" id="viewer-93frb" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 15px 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div class="gO6aa y8JqQg y8JqQg flaqF" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px auto; max-width: 100%; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeGO1gXao3z6WtsOfp5oxp_gDDQukV9MPINMCqmob9N9k9xUZ5WZ8gQXiizRcWUv_nP1wtxiLrVw8TpFA71Rn9oS6gIp0vO0F5RJgamiuFb7-ej9Girdp0tTD_berfvtBkXWMwtXonf_GztSjLMyYdzHborGL167o6SlcLWD9gZNu12Hgudpc1oDaePU/s1350/278857245_4952072188207829_536209639760121803_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeGO1gXao3z6WtsOfp5oxp_gDDQukV9MPINMCqmob9N9k9xUZ5WZ8gQXiizRcWUv_nP1wtxiLrVw8TpFA71Rn9oS6gIp0vO0F5RJgamiuFb7-ej9Girdp0tTD_berfvtBkXWMwtXonf_GztSjLMyYdzHborGL167o6SlcLWD9gZNu12Hgudpc1oDaePU/w512-h640/278857245_4952072188207829_536209639760121803_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Sonam Wangyal, the folk singer of Garkon<br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">While walking around the village, I saw this old Brokpa house with Ibex horns on the door. After I had sketched it, the owner came along and offered me some dried apricots from her tree. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="vBPBf L9OMM XHhj0" id="new-image740" style="--dim-height: 1172; --dim-width: 1080; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); aspect-ratio: var(--dim-width)/var(--dim-height); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; cursor: pointer; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 740px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">
</span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQobTdPkIFsYuU3GjrzNoI0rSHifbY4oDEmTOR2Md8y3YGKEc-6hyphenhyphenh9axoKAYv1YTWTTi_DNeduWLw_XPX8tr8ngjDlaEz1ck73u4kYMy_ASJs6sR97jyVYNI5Gxrxv-iIPuM9hxSpjWR7QhVZP61ETNktD8mlf-_5H8yZrmus-Rnc_VFbD8QqyyLorwM/s3264/20220412_130802.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQobTdPkIFsYuU3GjrzNoI0rSHifbY4oDEmTOR2Md8y3YGKEc-6hyphenhyphenh9axoKAYv1YTWTTi_DNeduWLw_XPX8tr8ngjDlaEz1ck73u4kYMy_ASJs6sR97jyVYNI5Gxrxv-iIPuM9hxSpjWR7QhVZP61ETNktD8mlf-_5H8yZrmus-Rnc_VFbD8QqyyLorwM/w444-h640/20220412_130802.jpg" width="444" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A house with a lot of character in Garkon<br /><br /></span><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I think it is now time to tell you about the Brokpa tribe. </span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">When Alexander, the Macedonian King invaded India in 326 BC, there were three soldier brothers who stayed back. Their names were Galo, Melo and Dhulo. They stayed back originally in the Gilgit Baltistan area and then wished to move to greener areas. One of the brothers shot an arrow and it fell in Dah (Dah means arrow), So Dah became the first settlement of the Brokpas and then eventually the descendants of the three brothers, settled in the villages of Hanu, Garkon, Darchik and 2-3 other villages, one of which is in Pakistan now. The Brokpas were animists and worshipped Nature and later embraced Buddhism. They do keep their animist traditions alive too with festivals and celebrations. Polyandry was common until a few generations ago. They speak a language called Dard or Shina and their language has no script. They speak Ladakhi fluently but the Ladakhis cannot understand their language. They marry only within their community although that is fast changing with the younger generation going to cities for work and studies. Both men and women wear headgear with flowers on it. </span></div></td></tr></tbody></table></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: red; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2020/06/the-nature-whisperers-of-sherdukpen.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my blog post on the Sherdukpen tribe.</i></a></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><br /></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDQha_WHShcG4pQqwSeI44y4bcypiYWW8jlTvlWT6jKQg8_8uS3F2l-sv74zj4imRs-uJ4IQ2t5qAjWEomB4CGw9PW5B1xcpqD2berXKpPJ4HSQfJnLWgKa_A6W_j1N6qpNHKs7CeNkEmEzZuvTaENUBApllVqKSK7FJnuLkM3ItDPDBGpMxSewpXshzk/s1080/278969231_4954915117923536_4502891484269086073_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDQha_WHShcG4pQqwSeI44y4bcypiYWW8jlTvlWT6jKQg8_8uS3F2l-sv74zj4imRs-uJ4IQ2t5qAjWEomB4CGw9PW5B1xcpqD2berXKpPJ4HSQfJnLWgKa_A6W_j1N6qpNHKs7CeNkEmEzZuvTaENUBApllVqKSK7FJnuLkM3ItDPDBGpMxSewpXshzk/w640-h640/278969231_4954915117923536_4502891484269086073_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Two young Brokpa girls</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI79V0ey6oLwNKPGyJFTe3mvKEM9FDfPOwApnYzFbHWgxuHgOHt9qLdG9xXX_TaawZNGRmhJz-bHQ5E0Kt9QVvD1MyjfZE9LemiQunO4BH4dCH1yVnPAPPeAvVVezVTH5rMqPz0uRifYOA7_NAa7mfE1bwqLi-6IoTglYrTZKD6KhbYORxCs6sQBTQk4g/s1080/278987389_4954915111256870_7261638468578682610_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI79V0ey6oLwNKPGyJFTe3mvKEM9FDfPOwApnYzFbHWgxuHgOHt9qLdG9xXX_TaawZNGRmhJz-bHQ5E0Kt9QVvD1MyjfZE9LemiQunO4BH4dCH1yVnPAPPeAvVVezVTH5rMqPz0uRifYOA7_NAa7mfE1bwqLi-6IoTglYrTZKD6KhbYORxCs6sQBTQk4g/w640-h640/278987389_4954915111256870_7261638468578682610_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Two young Brokpa girls</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span>I was lucky that on the day I was there, 14th April 2022, the Apricot Blossom Festival, locally called Chuli Menduq was being organized by the Department of Tourism. All the Brokpas from Garkon and the neighboring villages came in all their traditional attire and finery. </span></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The Brokpas looked like walking floral bouquets. So amazing. I noticed that the Brokpa attire is a celebration of all things sourced from earth. There is silver, pearls, coral, flowers, turquoise, sea shells, goat leather, coins, seeds, wool, etc. It was a bonus for me. It was a riot of colour and a feast for the eyes. There was dance and music too and I sketched in a frenzy to capture as much as I could. </span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The bright orange flower, Monthu-tho, is very important for the Brokpas. They value it even more than gold or silver. Whenever there is a dispute between people, this flower is offered as truce and to symbolize peace. During all the happy occasions like weddings or birth of a child, all the community members wear this flower as part of their headgear. This flower grows in a shrub in the fields in September. This is the headgear worn by Brokpa women. </span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTZfhDYo9yPsc-919cnQpqg46jczWcD8O69ocRTqLGuLcOcVihfsGPQNfnhthA43soDiq7DRG2kRZiODlJWBmkRvUx2qmfwiMRR2h4G5HsznNaGI_1yKA68VaqvMxJRKfWihyphenhyphen_3hnSJK6FxBfYduCom9Gq5vGxMKTXBREQIYNSR3DKM0HlUZrLYDbFr8/s1350/278940812_4955487024533012_5222894825878321676_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTZfhDYo9yPsc-919cnQpqg46jczWcD8O69ocRTqLGuLcOcVihfsGPQNfnhthA43soDiq7DRG2kRZiODlJWBmkRvUx2qmfwiMRR2h4G5HsznNaGI_1yKA68VaqvMxJRKfWihyphenhyphen_3hnSJK6FxBfYduCom9Gq5vGxMKTXBREQIYNSR3DKM0HlUZrLYDbFr8/w512-h640/278940812_4955487024533012_5222894825878321676_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The floral headgear for Brokpa women called Molan Kho</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_VqGOkhEuN3X_QneqbhoWTo6tBYpBdrWPAUJuA-vggimchzpfBXZi8k1xDB8dtJvXGCbF1NCwHz2rZNryRP3m0y5XohExI1gatKi1LK_j0ErYeOCZNh0zaP_SOrCydq6IAF3JHyPP-uhv4tKw2KQLHECRxN8u8aEbtHzqlueMjVXRMLCrTNhVYfPY6I/s4032/20220413_150607.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_VqGOkhEuN3X_QneqbhoWTo6tBYpBdrWPAUJuA-vggimchzpfBXZi8k1xDB8dtJvXGCbF1NCwHz2rZNryRP3m0y5XohExI1gatKi1LK_j0ErYeOCZNh0zaP_SOrCydq6IAF3JHyPP-uhv4tKw2KQLHECRxN8u8aEbtHzqlueMjVXRMLCrTNhVYfPY6I/w480-h640/20220413_150607.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Monthu Tho- the most important flower for the Brokpas</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-c34ce" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">I also sketched the Brokpa footwear and pants worn by women. </span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block79" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-2bung" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">The shoes are called 'Aala Peela'. Peela means shoes in their language. The bottom part is made of goat leather and the upper part of wool. So colorful! I am considering joining the Brokpa tribe for their sheer love for bright colours.</span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block80" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-57hso" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">The pant is worn underneath the kaftan or Kurta and is made of wool with rich embroidery in bright colors. It was quite heavy to hold. </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7SctDLlU_mfdojwH9IQWNmEA893THWtt5zgRXr_RWFT9B6NqJeRA10hpsA13Hh8HfEhFAgES_y5solGxfTLwjq72cAxcebeXM88WG77EknC1f9dM65s9s5PgePQBQc2OPAAZXiGVTb3Ow7rUYNcNk7-I9MLA3KFCBeQo-PlzzLjojyuHzFp3dNbEhQ8/s1350/278902371_4957389427676105_2761384526749857357_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7SctDLlU_mfdojwH9IQWNmEA893THWtt5zgRXr_RWFT9B6NqJeRA10hpsA13Hh8HfEhFAgES_y5solGxfTLwjq72cAxcebeXM88WG77EknC1f9dM65s9s5PgePQBQc2OPAAZXiGVTb3Ow7rUYNcNk7-I9MLA3KFCBeQo-PlzzLjojyuHzFp3dNbEhQ8/w512-h640/278902371_4957389427676105_2761384526749857357_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Brokpa women's pants</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31dRBZ4ERnyC2CH_iY64Rnwc6xee-1BRXCckavcBeFoRxCqw1lha0B04lvTge1mQ23J9SysbFU2IuH7l61EUbpPLL4pZe8FP0s7SONBcgpPFqf3tO2neck5B5IWJdlIp3C3b57FE05bR5HDUH8hpUzR8xTw2cmIlZfI4GyYEB5wI64ph4ioJmtJsZJR4/s1350/279068821_4957389431009438_5424256908453773049_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31dRBZ4ERnyC2CH_iY64Rnwc6xee-1BRXCckavcBeFoRxCqw1lha0B04lvTge1mQ23J9SysbFU2IuH7l61EUbpPLL4pZe8FP0s7SONBcgpPFqf3tO2neck5B5IWJdlIp3C3b57FE05bR5HDUH8hpUzR8xTw2cmIlZfI4GyYEB5wI64ph4ioJmtJsZJR4/w512-h640/279068821_4957389431009438_5424256908453773049_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Brokpa shoes called Aala Peela</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif">I wanted to do another portrait of a Brokpa woman and the mother of my homestay owner sweetly agreed to pose for me. The Brokpa women wear their hair in 14 plaits. 4 on each side and 6 behind. This lady told me when she was young, they had to comb their hair everyday and plait it. They never cut their hair. But now things have changed. She said earlier, rajma (kidney beans) and corn and other seeds were used as part of their attire. The silver used to come from Skardu, now in Pakistan. The traders would exchange salt in exchange for silver.</span></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-_tIBH8kPTjy-ACtPD1LnRPBuw6z5dPnVD48l_FoDu6fMKVKMe4IEPipNE42GTHBbYy5nlQrfZUOiuLfngzmDYTpuLUGaHZMvw1QcAm4CGrvhUcRj_uzbyDxjOqfQB_crCrUV7PY_LEgjP7yCtu6wl-WBCJ74InqdZvVjXUT4NILGm9ODrAsAp1wIePM/s1350/279041699_4958381037576944_1314683031734307455_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-_tIBH8kPTjy-ACtPD1LnRPBuw6z5dPnVD48l_FoDu6fMKVKMe4IEPipNE42GTHBbYy5nlQrfZUOiuLfngzmDYTpuLUGaHZMvw1QcAm4CGrvhUcRj_uzbyDxjOqfQB_crCrUV7PY_LEgjP7yCtu6wl-WBCJ74InqdZvVjXUT4NILGm9ODrAsAp1wIePM/w512-h640/279041699_4958381037576944_1314683031734307455_n.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><br /><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif">Brokpa girls from the back. They wear a cape made of goat skin and until two generations ago, girls weren't allowed to go outside or be seen by men without the goat skin.</span></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXD9R3210oxRacld6CSQpSK3AqnkGgfCZxbB7Mp2hEXFHBlRueN_EzEP7qN9NCtQeSA-f3GPURAfjltQJ9JSB-hiGne2lqDFxcZ0ZX-qWAfXkUjSPxPEXEsfriT67Yyq8vaFcKakrRd9vJlZ8WhsiR1gOCL1VWic4XbasZ28PB4pnkKLTtdLIpe4ilNE/s1350/279091327_4960208904060824_4657297020778719318_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXD9R3210oxRacld6CSQpSK3AqnkGgfCZxbB7Mp2hEXFHBlRueN_EzEP7qN9NCtQeSA-f3GPURAfjltQJ9JSB-hiGne2lqDFxcZ0ZX-qWAfXkUjSPxPEXEsfriT67Yyq8vaFcKakrRd9vJlZ8WhsiR1gOCL1VWic4XbasZ28PB4pnkKLTtdLIpe4ilNE/w512-h640/279091327_4960208904060824_4657297020778719318_n.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cape of the Brokpa girls.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4Rz7T1uI6oGe7gzhdbhTQNXsTppIvL8OgOBzklD_jNo-IndizkchJvXDSHNKfoWjutMcclKu7kHCbb19__-NuC3SkSqjVyxVq2MEBe8uMmSz4dDbPhw3-icF2pFZDTnuaeJyepUpnmGn_fyeiLm3Rhh8ahuZHZbtVpNl2dQl4A9kbHok3gOYi56cVvw/s1349/279067744_4960208907394157_9135204065163621930_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1349" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4Rz7T1uI6oGe7gzhdbhTQNXsTppIvL8OgOBzklD_jNo-IndizkchJvXDSHNKfoWjutMcclKu7kHCbb19__-NuC3SkSqjVyxVq2MEBe8uMmSz4dDbPhw3-icF2pFZDTnuaeJyepUpnmGn_fyeiLm3Rhh8ahuZHZbtVpNl2dQl4A9kbHok3gOYi56cVvw/w512-h640/279067744_4960208907394157_9135204065163621930_n.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The traditional attire of the Brokpas is elaborate and heavy!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-c4j1j" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">I got the opportunity to watch and sketch Brokpa musicians on percussion and wind instruments. The Brokpa songs are all about Nature, about Apricot blossoms, the river, the mountains. They share a close connection to nature like most people in the villages. </span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block92" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block93" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" type="paragraph"></div><div class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-969ml" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></div><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-2ccqt" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); orphans: 2; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">The wind instrument is called Surna, the tabla like instrument is called Daman, the sticks are called Danshing and the single percussion instrument is Bhoonsh. </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: red; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/the-secret-life-of-shamans-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my post on the Lepcha tribe in Sikkim. </i></a></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAN2eDUAexF74j8Td6gD9DO_p-2foD5ICqIr9VwG_NkqQMdLMODb-is5RsUj-E5MJhmDFuPW1FlLiEN5RViZ_0MrEhNM5y3fy6EH9R9DG3460QQbjXbszFoy1ZnCb7oTi5NL_hEVFYeH0oKocNv4lw27cCe9ks0pEylRN4v1GyeMbhSsFpoZOPCRVp4RU/s1212/279153333_4962795357135512_8316248038169012037_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1212" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAN2eDUAexF74j8Td6gD9DO_p-2foD5ICqIr9VwG_NkqQMdLMODb-is5RsUj-E5MJhmDFuPW1FlLiEN5RViZ_0MrEhNM5y3fy6EH9R9DG3460QQbjXbszFoy1ZnCb7oTi5NL_hEVFYeH0oKocNv4lw27cCe9ks0pEylRN4v1GyeMbhSsFpoZOPCRVp4RU/w570-h640/279153333_4962795357135512_8316248038169012037_n.jpg" width="570" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I think the Brokpa men may be the only men in the world to wear floral headgear with such confidence and elegance. <br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilFAlXI5oismjh49u-6VY0-MVQr2OTluvQXo0VqkG5KYc48CdM8T9N426oer599Wr8hMffumoRquY8wFAGBLt2uj62SoEX28wJZhuKDjOfdtNY3pWxosGn-wExMvtiOeEAwrWvQTBblru8J-bg2vGV9hrIxtp9_xnYp-FD6tv3TNBHrdPRHJlHQyZNn3o/s1172/278963294_4952790674802647_538966930219366165_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1172" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilFAlXI5oismjh49u-6VY0-MVQr2OTluvQXo0VqkG5KYc48CdM8T9N426oer599Wr8hMffumoRquY8wFAGBLt2uj62SoEX28wJZhuKDjOfdtNY3pWxosGn-wExMvtiOeEAwrWvQTBblru8J-bg2vGV9hrIxtp9_xnYp-FD6tv3TNBHrdPRHJlHQyZNn3o/w590-h640/278963294_4952790674802647_538966930219366165_n.jpg" width="590" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Brokpa men with floral headgear</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: transparent; font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: inherit; font-weight: inherit;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">This is a 500 yrs old Ladakhi house belonging to the family of Tashi Lundup, @payupaguesthouse which has now been converted into a museum. This was restored 150 yrs ago in its current state. It is a 4 storied structure. The ground floor called the 'Bhu' was used for keeping goats and sheep. The 1st floor is called Kattsa, used during winters where the entire family gathered. Leading to the Kattsa is another large room, where the handprints of Guru Padma Sambhava are kept on a Sabdak, an ancient symbolic rock, which represents the local deity. The food after being prepared is first offered to the deity and then partaken. There are small cells for storing butter and hold household items. </span></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><div data-hook="rcv-block98" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-6biko" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">The 2nd floor is called Sbyarkhang, used in summer. The 3rd floor is a prayer room called Chokthang. 4th floor is the terrace.</span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UALTVjnpmQKnM09zSJb8QvvveSNGJ7dblnXK6rGBdCqOJ3UjhPbU1wVwliqG_23jTYObxqi7kChSkdhiCHeLAuDyI9xhcha4wG7wGhitu7UPPLRDODDBmEL3y2wcLAUCXzUYH2U2g4-CyE1mRWAVPBz4lWZwv8MautM_2VNilxJIvbOMB_FxzZqA8rI/w640-h480/279167491_4965719186843129_156058098133095111_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brokpa museum in Garkon</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UALTVjnpmQKnM09zSJb8QvvveSNGJ7dblnXK6rGBdCqOJ3UjhPbU1wVwliqG_23jTYObxqi7kChSkdhiCHeLAuDyI9xhcha4wG7wGhitu7UPPLRDODDBmEL3y2wcLAUCXzUYH2U2g4-CyE1mRWAVPBz4lWZwv8MautM_2VNilxJIvbOMB_FxzZqA8rI/s1080/279167491_4965719186843129_156058098133095111_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Some of the items in the museum as such these pots are made of stone. They are over 200 years old and were made in what is now Pakistan. <br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiySKiw65wr_V4YMfurjBwr2MLGh25XRVG4PqUzj0_H8igMJwJiOml72-7vqMPnDAGsRjRvekZ-aicdWTg1NckA3bfX4DznS_42BjpYRvMwCzSGacNo5BjS7KiOHUPH_biu392kNwOMIOVca1WVSpYhxbIMJSgCDoVuuA1t2AqHt8EEiDPMBrlzYeZ5ROI/s1080/279268852_4965719190176462_6551914674591774221_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiySKiw65wr_V4YMfurjBwr2MLGh25XRVG4PqUzj0_H8igMJwJiOml72-7vqMPnDAGsRjRvekZ-aicdWTg1NckA3bfX4DznS_42BjpYRvMwCzSGacNo5BjS7KiOHUPH_biu392kNwOMIOVca1WVSpYhxbIMJSgCDoVuuA1t2AqHt8EEiDPMBrlzYeZ5ROI/w640-h480/279268852_4965719190176462_6551914674591774221_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-3k8d1" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJJS-ou16yv1edF9UTq0mPsUDJT2EL6dxjeCIkb99lwpaG1t_G9SnWBo0uPK45ZZcj3z7dltEboMh72bPPHfaDigr4tMG45BjRXuXRFbNUZV-csyp9-dPG-3YedEY33dQ343woKgxvBrktv14bImuhYcCABDCrZtM3NB8y3Tz29izIkCWd6eMrWhSjqE/s4032/20220413_144212.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJJS-ou16yv1edF9UTq0mPsUDJT2EL6dxjeCIkb99lwpaG1t_G9SnWBo0uPK45ZZcj3z7dltEboMh72bPPHfaDigr4tMG45BjRXuXRFbNUZV-csyp9-dPG-3YedEY33dQ343woKgxvBrktv14bImuhYcCABDCrZtM3NB8y3Tz29izIkCWd6eMrWhSjqE/w640-h480/20220413_144212.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Collection of museum artifacts</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: inherit; font-weight: inherit;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">At Garkon, I felt fortunate to sit by the Sindhu/Indus river, from which our country Bharat gets its anglicized name India, and sketch this beautiful scene, with the sound of the gurgling river water and the musical notes of the Whistling Thrush. The sun cast a molten golden glow on the waters on the horizon. So beautiful! I wanted to go and touch the water and fill up my water brushes too, but I already had a swollen ankle and thought that navigating more of these boulders would cause more strain. There will be another time I am sure. </span></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5yMOVegYzrvB0sEdJtpMnO8TnCMVVZbNcQUsScRoTX_qW101_mwHTtiDL6m12Agyxjq6bSimN9HmB0h044oF4dwAXV5blLtbfPV8VeSDCq8NgTt4bOwgZgAKXK-sEPU5SvV_1PENgIOgCnkxf8qFd3vVxHJJWV_qDUzTwleLkGu2AfwUjBxfI7ouC8A/w640-h480/278863648_4968133943268320_3998538837470132812_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indus river in Garkon</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5yMOVegYzrvB0sEdJtpMnO8TnCMVVZbNcQUsScRoTX_qW101_mwHTtiDL6m12Agyxjq6bSimN9HmB0h044oF4dwAXV5blLtbfPV8VeSDCq8NgTt4bOwgZgAKXK-sEPU5SvV_1PENgIOgCnkxf8qFd3vVxHJJWV_qDUzTwleLkGu2AfwUjBxfI7ouC8A/s1080/278863648_4968133943268320_3998538837470132812_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">As I was wandering around the village, a young man Phunchok invited me to see his newly renovated guest house called Betepa Guesthouse. He offered me tea and I sat on the terrace and sketched this panoramic view. <br /></span></span><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfg1R9TRHF88iH-hWe7V-pRO05wJTRSZUV7oap-N4FuzJXNFb4jcXBi7RkvJxY-b3dfLKW11w6e-avuMXFeVvmWLyRr7lcz92iMcwwwjmaqEHjojTDNUWbhA5Wsi0PMbHCVRQosdaiNCqcWgGic4plDbkGImnTyYf8dPOLJZAsO97U6QIuboRCZHW9dz8/s1080/279420847_4971028012978913_5153050935207506750_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="988" data-original-width="1080" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfg1R9TRHF88iH-hWe7V-pRO05wJTRSZUV7oap-N4FuzJXNFb4jcXBi7RkvJxY-b3dfLKW11w6e-avuMXFeVvmWLyRr7lcz92iMcwwwjmaqEHjojTDNUWbhA5Wsi0PMbHCVRQosdaiNCqcWgGic4plDbkGImnTyYf8dPOLJZAsO97U6QIuboRCZHW9dz8/w640-h586/279420847_4971028012978913_5153050935207506750_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_NoIn0LAc6ow3GujrseqxqL2KoeFFgjHrmScf7ovPNKCJLtGYi44F9sMyaHLnW90mKhKKGp01kxkB1JFKSeSrioU_Os18AcRvqdojDeykc13jveIsXbbeLMTwK0nIirsnacv8cg9zsGHlu0_v7PAs2QryeSbMCtlTqHBsCHeCfyzSWthDadw6iTlxmk/s4032/20220413_172508.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_NoIn0LAc6ow3GujrseqxqL2KoeFFgjHrmScf7ovPNKCJLtGYi44F9sMyaHLnW90mKhKKGp01kxkB1JFKSeSrioU_Os18AcRvqdojDeykc13jveIsXbbeLMTwK0nIirsnacv8cg9zsGHlu0_v7PAs2QryeSbMCtlTqHBsCHeCfyzSWthDadw6iTlxmk/w480-h640/20220413_172508.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Phunchok of Betepa Guest house in Garkon</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Below is the Payupa Guesthouse. </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6wQZ3MZbSaWwYM9qDKl2TpuOhTo3diW92yirSus1wa7ZmcOoq3Ol8uGi52E1F0ALsc0ALn3tJCKoDTRXCgsKekfsb40-dmN68XlHgf7QbKwNhnXkdETgvRMM2YbvNadFiJoz0T-uobFwA6-5cdpPdGAUiRanJ4XA7TCG63E8Jur9cliADNQRTabmA1g/s3264/20220414_071718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6wQZ3MZbSaWwYM9qDKl2TpuOhTo3diW92yirSus1wa7ZmcOoq3Ol8uGi52E1F0ALsc0ALn3tJCKoDTRXCgsKekfsb40-dmN68XlHgf7QbKwNhnXkdETgvRMM2YbvNadFiJoz0T-uobFwA6-5cdpPdGAUiRanJ4XA7TCG63E8Jur9cliADNQRTabmA1g/w480-h640/20220414_071718.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">As I had mentioned earlier, the Brokpas have kept their animist traditions alive alongside the Buddhist practices. This is the sacred walnut tree of the village called Changri Aatho, where their guardian spirit is believed to be residing. Every year, the Brokpa villages take turns celebrating the Bon festival called Bonona. So Garkon gets its chance every three years. The tree and stone are worshipped and offered holy fumes called Phok (juniper leaves). The first harvest of the season is also offered to the tree and villagers come in traditional attire and sing and dance in celebration. </span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/05/my-experience-with-kalaripayattu.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my post on the ancient martial arts form of Kalaripayattu.</i></a></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0eVmmsQ-JOTc8FrNeALAsgZoq0snMOB1zUOdNBMbl-9OXJ5ynnBhpm-XRiXJztiqGbs79asmeLYMjyIpgJxHwnpp2n4eHXJ5FmvCQ5ZCbk2lLgVNLD0u01GWRMNwD_rsSWK8MCFNnxoOKM16WEx2TdbGV_SHPhnOcORT5CcR0kdqKi11H_MLb7xZSns/s3264/20220413_160403.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0eVmmsQ-JOTc8FrNeALAsgZoq0snMOB1zUOdNBMbl-9OXJ5ynnBhpm-XRiXJztiqGbs79asmeLYMjyIpgJxHwnpp2n4eHXJ5FmvCQ5ZCbk2lLgVNLD0u01GWRMNwD_rsSWK8MCFNnxoOKM16WEx2TdbGV_SHPhnOcORT5CcR0kdqKi11H_MLb7xZSns/w640-h480/20220413_160403.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">During the Apricot blossom festival, the men and women performed a folk dance. It was a slow-moving dance but very graceful and the dancers sang in chorus. One of the women offered me a headgear. It was very heavy on my head. The songs they sang were about Nature, love, river and mountains. <br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yUZRJ0GvAckZ_2CHnycsrLAR8embqcMXtsFimkBiKWAdhO2reXYJghN8Ry8270FQC5Us8FV16lXgVghkuAenDQbXCh26tSFOb-1wxyuSL5TGZvJQG6_HxTysd2z76BP1sOqf5RIZwEMvA-Hk7cSkjAAKvYv4sqjp1wQFhyphenhyphenDatUhQ7ynJHCgVvuZxIgw/s4032/20220414_135159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yUZRJ0GvAckZ_2CHnycsrLAR8embqcMXtsFimkBiKWAdhO2reXYJghN8Ry8270FQC5Us8FV16lXgVghkuAenDQbXCh26tSFOb-1wxyuSL5TGZvJQG6_HxTysd2z76BP1sOqf5RIZwEMvA-Hk7cSkjAAKvYv4sqjp1wQFhyphenhyphenDatUhQ7ynJHCgVvuZxIgw/w640-h480/20220414_135159.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A coffee table at Paupa guesthouse with Tibetan Buddhist motifs. This kind of decor is ubiquitous in the regions practicing Tibetan Buddhism such as Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, Ladakh, and parts of Himachal Pradesh. <br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiedyl6g-gI5dFDmWWZ12cFrvXak9EeWO0gX_mI9bHMUSNgY-1CsX2C57rryBY1NYTyfI_-aAArXPiSM9DTrBISeRokwxcZKGc5YlfN95cfyjYLnxgVSjIIDbBf4BARGVD9m777YJEDNcTS2ilaqkDJI1tAG8emjw_ymrP_IEMMkJIDXU0EYrDDp2xS01A/s4032/20220415_065257.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiedyl6g-gI5dFDmWWZ12cFrvXak9EeWO0gX_mI9bHMUSNgY-1CsX2C57rryBY1NYTyfI_-aAArXPiSM9DTrBISeRokwxcZKGc5YlfN95cfyjYLnxgVSjIIDbBf4BARGVD9m777YJEDNcTS2ilaqkDJI1tAG8emjw_ymrP_IEMMkJIDXU0EYrDDp2xS01A/w640-h480/20220415_065257.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">My hostess at Payupa Guest House, Diskit, made this syrupy side dish with dried apricots which are just boiled in plain water. The result is a syrupy jam-like dish that pairs well with rice-dal and rotis. <br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA0fg3YULG14hW-dxubmUAirk6kTkjRl2NzNVYYzN1smuTgFYSm9SwssD_oFKY-L-vSssVM-hTMed-7oaA-JvBafnbkAH8h7TBjKmTQQ0lfgGqG9ccWkdkWUrgSbEc2h0NnwacwgKLZJp7k0n1VQrl72LVU05H7RnVTNcF0B3p9t6eud71FYx1JXIyvo/s4032/20220414_201706.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA0fg3YULG14hW-dxubmUAirk6kTkjRl2NzNVYYzN1smuTgFYSm9SwssD_oFKY-L-vSssVM-hTMed-7oaA-JvBafnbkAH8h7TBjKmTQQ0lfgGqG9ccWkdkWUrgSbEc2h0NnwacwgKLZJp7k0n1VQrl72LVU05H7RnVTNcF0B3p9t6eud71FYx1JXIyvo/w480-h640/20220414_201706.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Seeing me sketch at the Chuli Menduq, a Tourism minister of Ladakh, Aga Syed Taha, asked me to draw a portrait of him. I said I did not have loose papers and that I wouldn't tear a page from my sketchbook. He managed to get some A4 printer paper and asked me to draw on that.</span></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJYvAO3BbvwEjhWiiORHOT8e7dYAcSes7sRJB_1hCTJrpIXfiowr9ObRLQ9Bnh3QRXX_vOZ3_QW9SL-7h03eUCXXCeI2QPewX3HGWSmw_p6VVJIwMCPm0qFsLnVV7wilCDPmiKRXjSybrRm6qgA0TKkR1hNfi5qx7UnJfkV4wX13EPFNRsGkO4v0aC-Y/s4032/20220414_160918.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJYvAO3BbvwEjhWiiORHOT8e7dYAcSes7sRJB_1hCTJrpIXfiowr9ObRLQ9Bnh3QRXX_vOZ3_QW9SL-7h03eUCXXCeI2QPewX3HGWSmw_p6VVJIwMCPm0qFsLnVV7wilCDPmiKRXjSybrRm6qgA0TKkR1hNfi5qx7UnJfkV4wX13EPFNRsGkO4v0aC-Y/w480-h640/20220414_160918.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Assistant Director of Tourism, Aga Syed Taha</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">All in all, my Garkon visit was extremely fulfilling as I got a deeper insight into the culture of the Brokpas. My next stop after Garkon was </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/11/sketch-travelogue-of-leh-achinathang.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Temisgam/Tingmosgang</span><span style="color: #444444;"> </span></a><span style="color: #444444;">which was equally beautiful in its own way. </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/11/sketch-travelogue-of-leh-achinathang.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Read about it here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="Q6a5A" data-hook="imageViewer" role="button" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-style,unset); font-weight: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-weight,unset); line-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-line-height,unset); margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: var(--ricos-custom-p-text-decoration,unset); vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0"><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may subscribe to new post updates via email. Enter your email id in the 'Follow by email' on the right-hand side panel. </span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br style="white-space: normal;" /></span><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Also, follow my posts on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" style="text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Facebook</a>.</span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">
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font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block64" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-5tj8f" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></div></div><div data-hook="rcv-block62" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #5b24ae; font-family: avenir-lt-w01_35-light1475496, avenir-lt-w05_35-light, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: 2; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" type="empty-line"></div>Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-45758158000444120242022-11-02T02:27:00.000-07:002023-11-26T22:58:20.204-08:00Sketch Travelogue of Leh, Achinathang and Temisgam- Ladakh<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5h41FkaXYwvJ0I3BLZC6vIPg3aPZaZaRJW1vSBiHjo2XnnoaxTs51tut2i56sNiKRt0CHCsZOs5eVF1uINI05ELo1vPpxxA-0Y82uWRD4zN0kRMvVHeyWSPcZ5HN9LhdSNycICpNBTIXpSuMIIgR5T90EcMK2BxLMbMPwf20Odp9Vn8_nV5qWqrGyVk/s1080/279607927_4976589512422763_2393440723157930537_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="984" data-original-width="1080" height="584" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU5h41FkaXYwvJ0I3BLZC6vIPg3aPZaZaRJW1vSBiHjo2XnnoaxTs51tut2i56sNiKRt0CHCsZOs5eVF1uINI05ELo1vPpxxA-0Y82uWRD4zN0kRMvVHeyWSPcZ5HN9LhdSNycICpNBTIXpSuMIIgR5T90EcMK2BxLMbMPwf20Odp9Vn8_nV5qWqrGyVk/w640-h584/279607927_4976589512422763_2393440723157930537_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Leh Palace with the mountains in the background</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I am finally writing about my Ladakh sketch travelogue. This was my second trip in 2022 which I have documented entirely through sketches. The original Ladakh trip was to be in April 2020 which had to be shelved because of the Covid lockdown. I attempted to travel in 2021 too, but there was a third wave of Covid so again that got cancelled. </span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Finally, in April 2022, Ladakh called me and I had a splendid 12-day trip. As pictures (in this case sketches) speak a thousand words, let me take you along on my wonderful journey.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINds7KWw0y1A7YSNN9Gjui2ZgiF6PBYl0bhiW33XIVFzBt53huVZadrhKrivbAe7epB0bC5zN6X8QSKqzQo4UR83uhcqgmLAa1wqk8QF_NHuvur8t0ZJOOVdDA5uhh5rX0FsQzRIElx-uCCGyzPqmjPeoop7BvJE9YGTt_x28daMFgM-zemRkr-5tIKk/s1080/278118028_4923035771111471_1885579993310024080_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINds7KWw0y1A7YSNN9Gjui2ZgiF6PBYl0bhiW33XIVFzBt53huVZadrhKrivbAe7epB0bC5zN6X8QSKqzQo4UR83uhcqgmLAa1wqk8QF_NHuvur8t0ZJOOVdDA5uhh5rX0FsQzRIElx-uCCGyzPqmjPeoop7BvJE9YGTt_x28daMFgM-zemRkr-5tIKk/w640-h480/278118028_4923035771111471_1885579993310024080_n.jpg" title="Passengers at the Airport" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Passengers at Pune airport</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-bilnn" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">The Himalayas beckon!</span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block4" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><p></p><div data-hook="rcv-block5" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><div class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-9ulre" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></div><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-bilnn" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-1qjm2" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">I was hoping to sketch a plane on the 1st page, but at the Pune airport it's not visible from the waiting area. But people glued to their phones make for a good warm-up. </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65QJnq01PUe8Uozj4VEG7ERmQ1Dm2hrLe5X9RFTcgyy8DOuIDKBe_ebvA1NNPFv8GQUWTOY9Y38q3Zq-HHhBNqotKyx4vkKbLAd_L6ZDr9jkxwwT6Fawq3ieDJV5dos3WszkBXIgqldscctF0EF2SNcs71IBkgfaf9Umk0AU_blKuRLOu8Eti77RleAc/s1343/278150791_4923622024386179_2671583552718501819_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1343" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65QJnq01PUe8Uozj4VEG7ERmQ1Dm2hrLe5X9RFTcgyy8DOuIDKBe_ebvA1NNPFv8GQUWTOY9Y38q3Zq-HHhBNqotKyx4vkKbLAd_L6ZDr9jkxwwT6Fawq3ieDJV5dos3WszkBXIgqldscctF0EF2SNcs71IBkgfaf9Umk0AU_blKuRLOu8Eti77RleAc/w514-h640/278150791_4923622024386179_2671583552718501819_n.jpg" width="514" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">View from the waiting lounge at Delhi airport</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></span></span><p></p><div data-hook="rcv-block9" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: 2; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" type="paragraph"></div><div class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-err3l" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); orphans: 2; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"></div><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-7so4m" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); orphans: 2; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Sketched this at 2 am India time at the Delhi Airport. The tails of the parked planes look like shark fins.</span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisDa6cxByzXUHocC6Or1NfLH-P6IGVe5Dn2u-Lx6aWKAgsBRIykZqdEe8LpMiLsRrhkinYoWeYvgkj7d1pG48wWwIkT3gk8IJ0EZolcB5cH4NkJ_x36OE3T-fP-6cXaX7-FVyybtiLJ0CgRB3TJh1d22-VGU4ev3eZyS2lxTj95qi1RXo_HAPk6GZL2UA/s1080/278153103_4924486214299760_6248529010728309408_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisDa6cxByzXUHocC6Or1NfLH-P6IGVe5Dn2u-Lx6aWKAgsBRIykZqdEe8LpMiLsRrhkinYoWeYvgkj7d1pG48wWwIkT3gk8IJ0EZolcB5cH4NkJ_x36OE3T-fP-6cXaX7-FVyybtiLJ0CgRB3TJh1d22-VGU4ev3eZyS2lxTj95qi1RXo_HAPk6GZL2UA/w640-h640/278153103_4924486214299760_6248529010728309408_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; white-space: pre-wrap;">The magnificent Himalayan range on the Delhi-Leh flight.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/the-secret-life-of-shamans-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my blog post on the Lepcha tribe in Sikkim.</i></a></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmbP3mtE00YiJLbe6i4nTJL4yrMdoSLRRcvYZ2rNRLsOyFFsHX6KHc3h8gnxFpdEzmTKvRAOE2GLl1X2XIL4FRbPgjaUzrSk31OFuasqVn_0a_HcL148AnaDt_aTJaoyzzrdWheETh6weOjWO5dzoKczBLGUAON8PEQ_AxqLwdMg3rkR7sOaTj1oiIFg/s1080/278165374_4924486217633093_4874851796668330679_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmbP3mtE00YiJLbe6i4nTJL4yrMdoSLRRcvYZ2rNRLsOyFFsHX6KHc3h8gnxFpdEzmTKvRAOE2GLl1X2XIL4FRbPgjaUzrSk31OFuasqVn_0a_HcL148AnaDt_aTJaoyzzrdWheETh6weOjWO5dzoKczBLGUAON8PEQ_AxqLwdMg3rkR7sOaTj1oiIFg/w640-h640/278165374_4924486217633093_4874851796668330679_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSB2DF_GR_AfeMJUfQiw9LkwR5EfiDEC61pL2aDJzV8T17qDchokvnOa8zKRgGMI_Zfnq4f9FRsJNnt64FXiRTUkL6meP2n9WipMfolJPvnZlnhidz6Bgy07byhW9ClS1K8z9P4ybdDXH83GIGlkEWm6-uy1vjNPuaqS59dI3vJRrCA1xDovxz2v5J_O8/s1080/278174613_4924486210966427_1945624137872858082_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSB2DF_GR_AfeMJUfQiw9LkwR5EfiDEC61pL2aDJzV8T17qDchokvnOa8zKRgGMI_Zfnq4f9FRsJNnt64FXiRTUkL6meP2n9WipMfolJPvnZlnhidz6Bgy07byhW9ClS1K8z9P4ybdDXH83GIGlkEWm6-uy1vjNPuaqS59dI3vJRrCA1xDovxz2v5J_O8/w640-h640/278174613_4924486210966427_1945624137872858082_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20nt1T_o1lILEGpoStG-l6JpgYFBpAmJH82dtXVpRtPRw74fsA4GvB_jt2MBwNbpijHV_oyJnPGJI-ac3P0-CEHLt-2ziHIeP1eV1A3jREFXXyYkalcmIucrQM4PDiGK1VXkhmhnQhCzzWZlIKXKVp5-lqGimDkC4z9Pw8VXrrklHmb6A2zvmfXZCYCM/s1080/278209286_4924486220966426_9000406206363453257_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20nt1T_o1lILEGpoStG-l6JpgYFBpAmJH82dtXVpRtPRw74fsA4GvB_jt2MBwNbpijHV_oyJnPGJI-ac3P0-CEHLt-2ziHIeP1eV1A3jREFXXyYkalcmIucrQM4PDiGK1VXkhmhnQhCzzWZlIKXKVp5-lqGimDkC4z9Pw8VXrrklHmb6A2zvmfXZCYCM/w640-h640/278209286_4924486220966426_9000406206363453257_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I am anyways grumpy when I don't get a window seat and today I was furious that after having paid extra for a window seat, my seat didn't have a window anyways I decided to make the best of it. I had some consolation that I had chosen the west side of the plane because on the east, the sun almost blinds you and you cannot enjoy the aerial view. I was right. Most people on the right side crowded on the west with their cameras. I started rapidly sketching but couldn't take a proper photo with the background and the sketch was also in a sleep-deprived state. Some more pictures of the aerial view. So magnificent our mountain ranges are! </span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVq_e8zpAgB9tiAWjJ6dtm-CMEP9KOlmHVHtNXVrWtX6qGZLnentaOTcfkRQp5Ed2Rjowx2pOFUVpUd4yPGpLLD-PxKdI_5KLLDn0-cT4VDm0yX0FXxNzl88yHBjMEnmBwN1kFD2pruzjGTxL7YMhQYornVcwuzEbuvB99wJiJJgzmCacDK8vLFhoZ_I/s4032/20220409_115906.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVq_e8zpAgB9tiAWjJ6dtm-CMEP9KOlmHVHtNXVrWtX6qGZLnentaOTcfkRQp5Ed2Rjowx2pOFUVpUd4yPGpLLD-PxKdI_5KLLDn0-cT4VDm0yX0FXxNzl88yHBjMEnmBwN1kFD2pruzjGTxL7YMhQYornVcwuzEbuvB99wJiJJgzmCacDK8vLFhoZ_I/w480-h640/20220409_115906.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">View from the Ponyo guest house window</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">In Leh I stayed at Ponyo Guesthouse, run by a mother-son duo. It was in a quite lane, about 20 minutes walk from the Leh market and overlooking the snow peaked mountains. </span></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL6gKECtXQMvwWra4Esl9_H44re0yscQ-RhqLb8YMXNvgfmhyphenhyphenZAKfqDQJxSN4dvbxNvsOy8_flRRK1hN6N6DBUmFKg1NkrItMdwRZ2VWoQ420k-wCDCrelVDSe6kUN7nivhIwbKgD1LDyTPvN6ySvrUnuUTLg6Ra0TxwQsLxSgRjAPgajjNTgNBaXL5xY/s3029/20220410_080309.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3029" data-original-width="2415" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL6gKECtXQMvwWra4Esl9_H44re0yscQ-RhqLb8YMXNvgfmhyphenhyphenZAKfqDQJxSN4dvbxNvsOy8_flRRK1hN6N6DBUmFKg1NkrItMdwRZ2VWoQ420k-wCDCrelVDSe6kUN7nivhIwbKgD1LDyTPvN6ySvrUnuUTLg6Ra0TxwQsLxSgRjAPgajjNTgNBaXL5xY/w510-h640/20220410_080309.jpg" width="510" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of Ponyo guest house while having tea in the morning</td></tr></tbody></table></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcS-dCkRdQVw7tzkVXlgOZguYFHO-iShIO7pA3tr2XMUH1UIu04Slelv-TFNN46tJFHCLdZzpEyL85HB0Arj8-PeulSVKbXWw8b5jojv7ad_ZJXdd9HCeSb7csww9D5GTtgCAMZGWtzSWzXDXPhLD7nNS1Q4X3La1xyLBGdk1TN5u7pjiK1HiiarhivZQ/s1080/278227004_4925537974194584_4631588316916003929_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="872" data-original-width="1080" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcS-dCkRdQVw7tzkVXlgOZguYFHO-iShIO7pA3tr2XMUH1UIu04Slelv-TFNN46tJFHCLdZzpEyL85HB0Arj8-PeulSVKbXWw8b5jojv7ad_ZJXdd9HCeSb7csww9D5GTtgCAMZGWtzSWzXDXPhLD7nNS1Q4X3La1xyLBGdk1TN5u7pjiK1HiiarhivZQ/w640-h516/278227004_4925537974194584_4631588316916003929_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Leh market with the Leh castle in the background</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif">I was drawn to sketch this cafe and the adjacent structures at the Leh market. The buildings are a muted colour matching the cold desert that Ladakh is, with bright pops of colours in flags and name boards. </span><span><br /></span></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBby1BO1q1nGml1Djvn-UnjB_Vxa3a_7TLmxlm1VtgCBTP_NUMPmFEbGXDtAUJvRHXc1rX9SiCCaDWqYXJX-0gQAcC7S42awtOSKxSYy_0Zp1o2WtRZy7Q5w4zsRkMSkKAMGgulbw-onPBbGIXbAgslhLf2mTY2nFEZ4Yy53JrD36cKb_qauj01TcXiZQ/s1350/278283088_4926867740728274_2035445041448554195_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBby1BO1q1nGml1Djvn-UnjB_Vxa3a_7TLmxlm1VtgCBTP_NUMPmFEbGXDtAUJvRHXc1rX9SiCCaDWqYXJX-0gQAcC7S42awtOSKxSYy_0Zp1o2WtRZy7Q5w4zsRkMSkKAMGgulbw-onPBbGIXbAgslhLf2mTY2nFEZ4Yy53JrD36cKb_qauj01TcXiZQ/w512-h640/278283088_4926867740728274_2035445041448554195_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Leh Post Office.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><p></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-4m1f5" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block25" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-epf88" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">I love how post offices across India try to incorporate traditional elements of architecture. In Leh it translates to intricately carved wood beams and bright red windows. </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">After a hot cup of tea and Ladakhi biscuits, on the 10th of April morning, I boarded a bus from Leh bus station and proceeded to Achinathang. At first glance, Ladakh looked barren devoid of any color, but upon a closer look I noticed a raw beauty in the barrenness and could decipher colors even in the neutral tones. </span></span></p><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: inherit; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); orphans: 2; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-peDTjjSnwOVZ-nqUf2lm7QZYLb19IocjxGSWbcVTOnD0Eh1n9iSD74Z-Es12QJNHol8q8mmrGdIYRipmdOjtD-1zRgJOX54ez02k0N5NZRIQ0h9uPa5jfXvR2h8LM98K8yZct9XNr57Fyim_o35ZchaaZ7x8aVFJTFLfYGIC_W5uP1Y5-6wLAoQ6emU/s1080/278287589_4927909660624082_8280130891024582596_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-peDTjjSnwOVZ-nqUf2lm7QZYLb19IocjxGSWbcVTOnD0Eh1n9iSD74Z-Es12QJNHol8q8mmrGdIYRipmdOjtD-1zRgJOX54ez02k0N5NZRIQ0h9uPa5jfXvR2h8LM98K8yZct9XNr57Fyim_o35ZchaaZ7x8aVFJTFLfYGIC_W5uP1Y5-6wLAoQ6emU/w640-h640/278287589_4927909660624082_8280130891024582596_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif" style="text-align: left; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thumbnails from the moving bus to Achinathang. Of barren, rugged almost lunar landscapes, weathered and fashioned by the wind and sun.
</span><span style="text-align: left;"></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><b>Now comes the part which travellers dread</b><span style="font-weight: inherit;">. </span><span style="font-weight: inherit;">I had zeroed in on Achinathang for the apricot blossoms in April and also to meet a renowned Ladakhi scholar, Sonam Phuntsog. As I had mentioned earlier, I had planned my trip in April 2020 which got cancelled due to the pandemic. But I had been in touch with Dolma and her husband Stanzin who run a homestay in Achinathang. </span><span style="font-weight: inherit;">Although having updated Dolma about my travel plans and dates, I felt utter dismay seeing how dirty the house was, upon reaching there. Things were strewn, and the floor wasn't swept for days. I was given a room on the first floor and was asked to use the bathroon-cum-toilet on the ground floor. The bathroom I was asked to use was utterly filthy, with leaves, mud, plastic buckets, washing machine and whatnot all dumped together. I said I would use the bathroom next to my room on the first floor. The wash basin had no water, luckily the flush had and it was better than the one below. The weariness of travel, the sleeplessness, and the indifference of the hosts took its toll and I wanted to immediately leave their place. But the next bus would come only the next day for my next destination, Garkon. I decided to brave out the 24 hours. Evening came and it was time to sleep and the hosts did not even bother asking if I needed some more warm blankets or hot water. I informed them that I would be leaving the next day. Stanzin justified the dirty house saying they are busy with farming and taking care of children. But why host people then who have come from far away to experience a slice of their life. Isn't that a waste of their time and money? I felt cheated.</span></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"></span></span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC34MFvywpUuBpzrnwxn-HA7EvclN1Ra2mu1AftQ8EjivQPMFpne3HXb7DBMXVc8iYHu21lQOrFt-C6IYEf3r2kOcI7hwOctHDn7i9fY4JvZy8D1AFPUESIOKKOEvHlDLcTVQLBPW0kYNBn6FWLCbBNmkHY9JYEz7xOshQkucHW9f5pWP4jHRZ2lUDWoA/s1350/278855623_4949422645139450_2756161716084516113_n.jpg" style="background-color: transparent; font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: inherit; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC34MFvywpUuBpzrnwxn-HA7EvclN1Ra2mu1AftQ8EjivQPMFpne3HXb7DBMXVc8iYHu21lQOrFt-C6IYEf3r2kOcI7hwOctHDn7i9fY4JvZy8D1AFPUESIOKKOEvHlDLcTVQLBPW0kYNBn6FWLCbBNmkHY9JYEz7xOshQkucHW9f5pWP4jHRZ2lUDWoA/w512-h640/278855623_4949422645139450_2756161716084516113_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The Ladakhi scholar Sonam Phuntsog</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: inherit; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZcgnDp8rWUYU2mFVGt1fjQUlL7Bx-XpA5HvzPt8usw3ODsXTadZVoG94gBSF6dulfrKVIwP-wUZrr9Tsp07aASqlUEkf5E_GtaTsWvsdNwxNar6KoI6Ju7Qjwv1KmZdt7cJgXPqS4di9CffgmL2ASAiIqDEWWWQDBLO07MccuVue_ONb_kQ0EMscXCNw/s1351/278317595_4928000800614968_8780094929394211061_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1351" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZcgnDp8rWUYU2mFVGt1fjQUlL7Bx-XpA5HvzPt8usw3ODsXTadZVoG94gBSF6dulfrKVIwP-wUZrr9Tsp07aASqlUEkf5E_GtaTsWvsdNwxNar6KoI6Ju7Qjwv1KmZdt7cJgXPqS4di9CffgmL2ASAiIqDEWWWQDBLO07MccuVue_ONb_kQ0EMscXCNw/w512-h640/278317595_4928000800614968_8780094929394211061_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-avf5f" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">While I was sketching, this little boy who had seen me sketching earlier came up to me and handed me a bar of chocolate how adorable! He had purchased the bar from a shop nearby. So as a token of thanks I wanted to sketch him too. While I completed the 1st sketch he told me about his school and asked me which class I was in. He is in class 1. He was surprised that I couldn't tell him which class I am in.</span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block35" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-dua2f" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">He wanted to pose for a sketch with an imaginary black bird in his hand. Since I directly sketch with a pen, his feet got cut off. He asked me why I did not draw his feet with his footwear properly. Too strict for a 6 year old. his name is Nima Namgyal and Nima means the sun in Ladakhi language. For the earlier sketch he insisted I draw the sun because that's him. </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: inherit; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicLMk-uio7VYydpVjZy43HlmvoEB2SLRJl4Yd7ylMruhlvrTJjCwFQTuj50u_1TsdqsLmYwPqD6vkgVzPFDWqGjvPyXtXSdEVWf0aNbJ1aeTsd8UOEIBXhpCjjBxPBRD0iBHl5xMIwrIW4GVhHqLCU1sA0Y7v48vL3M7y2tFdMILiJ7osJt-84ufsoBrA/s1352/278350015_4928000797281635_932024445746342402_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1352" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicLMk-uio7VYydpVjZy43HlmvoEB2SLRJl4Yd7ylMruhlvrTJjCwFQTuj50u_1TsdqsLmYwPqD6vkgVzPFDWqGjvPyXtXSdEVWf0aNbJ1aeTsd8UOEIBXhpCjjBxPBRD0iBHl5xMIwrIW4GVhHqLCU1sA0Y7v48vL3M7y2tFdMILiJ7osJt-84ufsoBrA/w512-h640/278350015_4928000797281635_932024445746342402_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-au8li" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">A village on the other side of the Indus river. I was sketching this when the little boy Nima Namgyal met me (check the previous post). I had to draw the sun. He wanted me to draw the rays of the sun too but I didn't :-)</span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block39" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><div class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-c89sh" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGFrhloZMPHCZyag5iiQtMWSe5P5mIJwIjPJ-Mv09I4DolCEv3zn-UiPyaEkPInSZIJnpqrUOChzKYaImEcvVQm2WNhyONgUOUjb2hfw08spOl7ffnwmVqxBSi8ni5DnJQtM9ZdsO1mq5OQqdeSm_MvMBRLGzsqASXplt9RgelSU9GW3tN2WYluYd3ras/s1080/278368676_4929658603782521_5189858069584309991_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1080" height="632" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGFrhloZMPHCZyag5iiQtMWSe5P5mIJwIjPJ-Mv09I4DolCEv3zn-UiPyaEkPInSZIJnpqrUOChzKYaImEcvVQm2WNhyONgUOUjb2hfw08spOl7ffnwmVqxBSi8ni5DnJQtM9ZdsO1mq5OQqdeSm_MvMBRLGzsqASXplt9RgelSU9GW3tN2WYluYd3ras/w640-h632/278368676_4929658603782521_5189858069584309991_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A village the other side of Achinathang across the river</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0PE_eeFbR6ph24zFv0uPPGh4rs_SPdAvfdOU0qvQz3D_7IItyKyGFxeTCg0R_4oMzlc5DOjyWyv-0NuZL_o9l43XXe1Gguk8kufzIrkrjevGvALp_cPFvKAML_aiIyawPrCakapdCi7yKpYx4P3cLY0rzumXEQnjE5nSSGh1Ta3MCDgzUcC8bg1UJwRA/s1080/278373386_4930468993701482_4953932680585041623_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="1080" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0PE_eeFbR6ph24zFv0uPPGh4rs_SPdAvfdOU0qvQz3D_7IItyKyGFxeTCg0R_4oMzlc5DOjyWyv-0NuZL_o9l43XXe1Gguk8kufzIrkrjevGvALp_cPFvKAML_aiIyawPrCakapdCi7yKpYx4P3cLY0rzumXEQnjE5nSSGh1Ta3MCDgzUcC8bg1UJwRA/w640-h536/278373386_4930468993701482_4953932680585041623_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Chorten in Achinathang</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span face="assistant-semibold, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; white-space: pre-wrap;">My homestay host said that this Buddhist structure is of great significance. There are only 2 such structures called Chorten with 5 domes in entire Ladakh. There is a belief that when people die, at the gates of heaven, the God of death asks if one has gone around this structure with 5 domes. And if not, they are promptly dispatched to hell :-)</span><span style="font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: inherit; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxCWl_6UMyEzQ0zXpi-DCGNtEZSCimyHR_EpC73wO0FUng9bLrzPBchnZIWUA2rqOwWEnwc-p6pox8nK9M3GH_eNIW3W2KAXovaTeO7DFGMUMum2O8T0rmMkiVOkhXyD25uFHU6Si9OmAdlIuOpp9Pcg1AJTCEDQNroepgC-nlq6eTfQCWTF6zw4UNa0s/s1080/278394574_4931994613548920_1505919411149599985_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="958" data-original-width="1080" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxCWl_6UMyEzQ0zXpi-DCGNtEZSCimyHR_EpC73wO0FUng9bLrzPBchnZIWUA2rqOwWEnwc-p6pox8nK9M3GH_eNIW3W2KAXovaTeO7DFGMUMum2O8T0rmMkiVOkhXyD25uFHU6Si9OmAdlIuOpp9Pcg1AJTCEDQNroepgC-nlq6eTfQCWTF6zw4UNa0s/w640-h568/278394574_4931994613548920_1505919411149599985_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-akqlr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Salted butter tea.</span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block45" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-7tqpv" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-family: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-family,unset); font-size: var(--ricos-custom-p-font-size,unset); font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"> These colourful flasks with dragon designs are ubiquitous in most mountain villages I have visited. They come in various sizes holding up to 3 to 4 litres of liquid. In the mountains, people make large quantities of tea in the morning fill up these flasks, and keep having them throughout the day. This is salted butter tea, made with milk, butter, salt, and a different kind of tea leaf. It's rich and creamy and you can taste the butter in it too. This high-calorie beverage is essential for cold, mountain life. </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">My desire to see apricot blossoms did not materialize in Achinathang. Summer arrived early in 2022 and the village looked like a white fairyland with apricot blossoms the previous week, but by the time I arrived, they were all wilted. I wanted to burst out crying, for catharsis, because of the bad homestay experience and lack of apricot blossoms. I wondered if the rest of my trip would get worse and if I should just go back home. But a quick check of the astronomically priced flight tickets made me decide to tough and rough it out! </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Luckily, before I left Achinathang, as I wandered through the village, I saw this single tree full of apricot blossoms. Maybe, the nature fairies heard me cry. I sketched this determinedly with the scorching sun singeing my back through the layers of clothing. </span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my blog post on Birding in Sarmoli.</i></a></span></span><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUhyphenhyphenQSliHBF-s8dhyphenhyphenwGvweluALJb26s95jZAYZMmnKW6F9yD7PIomFfb5YGktugXADyEhvueB-ThD7QH4zCHHHyM_3bVyhUZbQPU0tjg2tEKvuZDIMEEMI_-OwrBzqY-fvwiWTy8yzM-Fi4d292MgXI9JVkTxpY_A3H0zvykYGeSx225CHrwiAGTpFAjs/s1080/278395274_4948412961907085_1088720803425270871_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1080" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUhyphenhyphenQSliHBF-s8dhyphenhyphenwGvweluALJb26s95jZAYZMmnKW6F9yD7PIomFfb5YGktugXADyEhvueB-ThD7QH4zCHHHyM_3bVyhUZbQPU0tjg2tEKvuZDIMEEMI_-OwrBzqY-fvwiWTy8yzM-Fi4d292MgXI9JVkTxpY_A3H0zvykYGeSx225CHrwiAGTpFAjs/w640-h534/278395274_4948412961907085_1088720803425270871_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The lone apricot tree with blossoms in Achinathang</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /><span style="color: #444444;">Looked like I was not meant to visit Achinathang. As if the dirty homestay and lack of apricot blossoms weren't enough while waiting for the bus to </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/12/the-brokpas-of-garkon-sketch-travelogue.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Garkon</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, which was one and a half hours late, a shabby-looking old man annoyed me no end, by talking continuously and inviting me to his house and asking personal questions. I was mentally exhausted and was prepared to punch him if he crossed his limits. </span></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;">Sketching came to my rescue and I drew this, eagerly waiting for the bus and from the corner of my eyes making sure that the old man wasn't up to anything undesirable. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeQHKkA0uR_15X64usLNOlDJZEi_pPf9aX1cNSyj-DLNl33hYRHEez5yxcnkSlmB0rvPbFnplkTh7zJQEOMj7Seau2GVZZbbKVnzVDWFhJVm58IOBFVJUQVKV4aDrB6fheSAAajzxon9NstB-17MbYmqFX3NW9jWokIRFSuFkbvW57-0RmAN_9C2onEY/s4032/20220411_141238.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeQHKkA0uR_15X64usLNOlDJZEi_pPf9aX1cNSyj-DLNl33hYRHEez5yxcnkSlmB0rvPbFnplkTh7zJQEOMj7Seau2GVZZbbKVnzVDWFhJVm58IOBFVJUQVKV4aDrB6fheSAAajzxon9NstB-17MbYmqFX3NW9jWokIRFSuFkbvW57-0RmAN_9C2onEY/w640-h480/20220411_141238.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A bad sketch by a mentally exhausted me!</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-weight: inherit;">The bus finally came and I breathed a huge sigh of relief. The bus meandered its way parallel to the turquoise Indus river. </span></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpbI_wLnIftMfVxN88oP9nkRn35QO-Y_t_wfiacphzIPQb-7RnFGlJHgJKRMFRknlfrVbapK1pqaq1so6ZZBNEgTnzXRI2g3ubkQC3p_HkVyiVpaPhqr5a_faDpVxADSJf3CTMKctQYRtmivoC_wZ_deNDxnEpkT9dQufE9CTGm-yl_Rx1979XCvORn-c/s1080/278821235_4949670768447971_532175962164557552_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpbI_wLnIftMfVxN88oP9nkRn35QO-Y_t_wfiacphzIPQb-7RnFGlJHgJKRMFRknlfrVbapK1pqaq1so6ZZBNEgTnzXRI2g3ubkQC3p_HkVyiVpaPhqr5a_faDpVxADSJf3CTMKctQYRtmivoC_wZ_deNDxnEpkT9dQufE9CTGm-yl_Rx1979XCvORn-c/w640-h640/278821235_4949670768447971_532175962164557552_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Thumbnails of the Indus river from a bus to Garkon</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /><span style="color: #444444;">I reached Garkon, the village of the Brokpa tribe. </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/12/the-brokpas-of-garkon-sketch-travelogue.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">I have a separate detailed post about the Brokpa people which you can reach here. </span></a></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;">I stayed at Payupa guest house, run by Diskit and her husband Tashi. They also have a 500 yrs old Brokpa house converted into a museum to preserve Brokpa tradition. <br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrtF6Zt1ct7nBMzBv8qltth6uCvXUG0FpBatp4oZMeAGXCeB8_2ORp_SYIqnEVguQ-5qcHKcVyo1SvqdB4kuguU9yqlT2beGPTM3vomwoSc-Ip4uGgVavg0MbeHgq0AyQ0YSQPIV8mMwqW7rI2fukGfunDUORkRHX7UyxX4OaJNKo4MBC4lkWu6AR2R8/s1080/278845450_4950980748316973_2082825000132774319_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1080" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDrtF6Zt1ct7nBMzBv8qltth6uCvXUG0FpBatp4oZMeAGXCeB8_2ORp_SYIqnEVguQ-5qcHKcVyo1SvqdB4kuguU9yqlT2beGPTM3vomwoSc-Ip4uGgVavg0MbeHgq0AyQ0YSQPIV8mMwqW7rI2fukGfunDUORkRHX7UyxX4OaJNKo4MBC4lkWu6AR2R8/w640-h574/278845450_4950980748316973_2082825000132774319_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Outside the Payupa Guest house</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: inherit; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><span style="color: #444444;">I attended the </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/12/the-brokpas-of-garkon-sketch-travelogue.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Apricot blossom festival</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> at Garkon, locally called Chuli-menduq and I had an amazing time. Please read my entire blog post on Garkon. </span><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-stlpZFnfxb0nVp06XWgvCiIw8FKYCcmriQVBACvHP3KaK-kVmR_oVrrd0heA9T2l9MoysmBt3VyI7M8FLkMTxAHLNPtdX-sJ1VYXE2ErI4OZzKevvDkmQjXeczquSHl5xJAGoZXJqLPhJPwK9Ia-MS1h6tyVRYWYyH5ILNaQUJyP3P8hklHQNhnSFus/s1080/278969231_4954915117923536_4502891484269086073_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-stlpZFnfxb0nVp06XWgvCiIw8FKYCcmriQVBACvHP3KaK-kVmR_oVrrd0heA9T2l9MoysmBt3VyI7M8FLkMTxAHLNPtdX-sJ1VYXE2ErI4OZzKevvDkmQjXeczquSHl5xJAGoZXJqLPhJPwK9Ia-MS1h6tyVRYWYyH5ILNaQUJyP3P8hklHQNhnSFus/w640-h640/278969231_4954915117923536_4502891484269086073_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Two young Brokpa girls in their traditional attire</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;">At the Payupa Guest house in Garkon, I met two girls who were traveling through Ladakh in a hired cab with a driver. They told me that their next destination was Temisgam. I have never heard of it. But a quick Google search told me that Temisgam also known as Tingmosgang was at a higher altitude than Garkon so I inferred that I might still stand a chance to see trees full of apricot blossoms. I asked the girls if I could accompany them and they gracefully agreed. I did a search for homestays in Temisgam and got to know the names of the hosts but there wasn't a proper address. Luckily, the family with whom the two girls were staying knew this homestay I wanted to go to and took me to Yakpa homestay run by the motherly Ama Tsering Lanzes and her husband Tashi Wangyal. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;">It was a large house with six rooms with an attached bathroom each. Within the house compound was a large orchard full of apricot trees. My hostess Ama Lanzes was very motherly and fed me sumptuously. My first meal there was a huge plate of fresh and hot momos with cabbage and carrot stuffing. I sketched away as my hostess dexterously shaped the momos and steamed them. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYvPjnlYao-XSNcu1Q8tnjP4QfbdO1jWGzMRp-PFWW-0Nuh8j-TxTCNglcrIdYSVUX48EazHkLSmnU2gfUGNi8807k2MrHHwfLOwVLSdDPKwe8LMKJYjJibJmgEg-JsBfSVhMYcxb-MtRLrCSVMyYOoyJRwYkDxVlcfHRW-zvNWT6PSLsyUJt1Cnt1Eo/s2911/20220415_203011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2911" data-original-width="1959" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYvPjnlYao-XSNcu1Q8tnjP4QfbdO1jWGzMRp-PFWW-0Nuh8j-TxTCNglcrIdYSVUX48EazHkLSmnU2gfUGNi8807k2MrHHwfLOwVLSdDPKwe8LMKJYjJibJmgEg-JsBfSVhMYcxb-MtRLrCSVMyYOoyJRwYkDxVlcfHRW-zvNWT6PSLsyUJt1Cnt1Eo/w430-h640/20220415_203011.jpg" width="430" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftQCvYJABdJS0zr2urvvLlcw-UVr44sM76N5KEm3badAin2ZErRtm-xCZJ7FhYt6vWvxQ4nk3EKAFExrIaFhaXdJ1Dl2CaWkDG9wMGQ25BwLm3kJs-kJIXfL18rqALip0yR6ywVCowf4m0ryXIA81cwSy7iYqDBROZcRyYEpVml8kJXI__zXPXpJEpJM/s4032/20220415_202830.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftQCvYJABdJS0zr2urvvLlcw-UVr44sM76N5KEm3badAin2ZErRtm-xCZJ7FhYt6vWvxQ4nk3EKAFExrIaFhaXdJ1Dl2CaWkDG9wMGQ25BwLm3kJs-kJIXfL18rqALip0yR6ywVCowf4m0ryXIA81cwSy7iYqDBROZcRyYEpVml8kJXI__zXPXpJEpJM/w480-h640/20220415_202830.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Making of momos in Temisgam</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br />My hostess was very caring and made sure I had a heater in the room and extra warm blankets. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The next morning I sauntered around the village. Temisgam has many old, elegant houses and structures, many of them abandoned. and to my utter delight I was right. Being at a higher altitude than Garkon, the apricot blossoms were still blooming. I had my heart's fill of these blossoms by sketching and savouring them. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUavmVXhy0nqB1nixOPTyYQNiqLQ7b5rCQDCc4PWS8lDPbUr7r26H8ZVohTL2fKjCGvBnbNw9FUK77VX1aJLjwreYb_jVKoLZvNlfSOk_GpKcQU7Iw9l9qYdhjsBd4mgKj17N6za0YmunklV6tjw9aOCSFuZg5ByKq4rkO1DuTOVw9DyS0MMhOpWSuTg/s3264/20220415_174435.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUavmVXhy0nqB1nixOPTyYQNiqLQ7b5rCQDCc4PWS8lDPbUr7r26H8ZVohTL2fKjCGvBnbNw9FUK77VX1aJLjwreYb_jVKoLZvNlfSOk_GpKcQU7Iw9l9qYdhjsBd4mgKj17N6za0YmunklV6tjw9aOCSFuZg5ByKq4rkO1DuTOVw9DyS0MMhOpWSuTg/w640-h480/20220415_174435.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">An old traditional Ladakhi house</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-5rmkn" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="B2EFF public-DraftStyleDefault-ltr" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: transparent; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; display: block; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">After being heartbroken at not having seen apricot blossoms in the earlier 2 villages (and shedding some tears over it) I was in for a delightful surprise the moment I arrived in Temisgam/Tingmosgang. The village was dotted with these blushing pink tinted, white apricot trees. The earth laughs in flowers and I felt the laughter through joy rippling through my body and like a harp playing in my own heart. I sketched this in the morning, sitting in the sun and thawing my frozen body.</span></span></span></p><div data-hook="rcv-block109" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;" type="paragraph"></div><div class="xVISr Y9Dpf bCMSCT OZy-3 lnyWN yMZv8w bCMSCT public-DraftStyleDefault-block-depth0 fixed-tab-size public-DraftStyleDefault-text-ltr" id="viewer-f1ao0" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; direction: ltr; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px; min-height: var(--ricos-custom-p-min-height,unset); outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0sRsU9NZfdMU8uOeyi2lZLZ5P99I12yVwILRXDqPWXljUO4zT1QBt5aoD3sYxpXmkxZh5umc1g-aM_5PcaqoHimyOn71TUhFT828u0PRohHLIKUaH-PNyq5wj4-Xp9QAWT386GCM7NOJpmi407RnNlCoYIOp0v7p0q8lCdvLA8EvJ05RvEHtgUzlPdG4/s4032/20220416_094727.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0sRsU9NZfdMU8uOeyi2lZLZ5P99I12yVwILRXDqPWXljUO4zT1QBt5aoD3sYxpXmkxZh5umc1g-aM_5PcaqoHimyOn71TUhFT828u0PRohHLIKUaH-PNyq5wj4-Xp9QAWT386GCM7NOJpmi407RnNlCoYIOp0v7p0q8lCdvLA8EvJ05RvEHtgUzlPdG4/w640-h480/20220416_094727.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A profusion of apricot blossoms</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYutZ8yMKyCQshMzJZSRR0Ua3QSrPPPM2ZQZ366Sd3Hhp5AufUDA-6ahWwoDsAx8SFq-ExtB1YmyHMZ6Fi-KiBKe9Fx0j7mMU4RPz5VlmQ1J90IK5vgduQ93E_Aj1mF3EU-kr0gR79e8zRpeclk1sWPUHTG6y-AMlzcKAY2uZlQGcyb97HZZrxmVu6Tbw/s4032/20220416_174743.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYutZ8yMKyCQshMzJZSRR0Ua3QSrPPPM2ZQZ366Sd3Hhp5AufUDA-6ahWwoDsAx8SFq-ExtB1YmyHMZ6Fi-KiBKe9Fx0j7mMU4RPz5VlmQ1J90IK5vgduQ93E_Aj1mF3EU-kr0gR79e8zRpeclk1sWPUHTG6y-AMlzcKAY2uZlQGcyb97HZZrxmVu6Tbw/w640-h480/20220416_174743.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Close up of apricot blossoms</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrr1_UYC74ghzEzSh9MhjMMIjggR460dCCw_s3COB89Xq9Kefrrv7EsipJ2WzxhTQeejmqkUYGUsPCTgHVa-f0e3qC0DalnOnxcyjQthlXpWWHbDdPEguFpIdIVwD_ntZ38HLG-C91ZeXj19fTunm40cKiSsmiwpi6vBpdEZSREnDN_WZVZFPYC9PAmc/s4032/20220415_174145.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrr1_UYC74ghzEzSh9MhjMMIjggR460dCCw_s3COB89Xq9Kefrrv7EsipJ2WzxhTQeejmqkUYGUsPCTgHVa-f0e3qC0DalnOnxcyjQthlXpWWHbDdPEguFpIdIVwD_ntZ38HLG-C91ZeXj19fTunm40cKiSsmiwpi6vBpdEZSREnDN_WZVZFPYC9PAmc/w640-h480/20220415_174145.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2015/06/my-tryst-with-pollinating-vanilla.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my post on hand pollinating vanilla flowers.</i></a></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6cqvx3Ezu7r_fClh9d3yWfGkXxgQAq8FSFSB-ztIH9UnHiBeJ8rk4iVDZU1RXmRyytYNGLiWB8_CTCbOo3lCfCQvjXaBBZaMgOcRNg5ml7ISUhMlURCgNycbaYFI4Bq7HtMQ02ZynmuzEwPJ7qXH1a7oevCb0ukJew1ZtloBmKBUX0XE4ke5-F5aaZiI/s4032/20220415_175216.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6cqvx3Ezu7r_fClh9d3yWfGkXxgQAq8FSFSB-ztIH9UnHiBeJ8rk4iVDZU1RXmRyytYNGLiWB8_CTCbOo3lCfCQvjXaBBZaMgOcRNg5ml7ISUhMlURCgNycbaYFI4Bq7HtMQ02ZynmuzEwPJ7qXH1a7oevCb0ukJew1ZtloBmKBUX0XE4ke5-F5aaZiI/w640-h480/20220415_175216.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A road in Temisgam lined with apricot blossoms with the snow-capped mountains in the background</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb997xWjL_yKdFzLZOG6DC3c7ZieCRJ87tGjTNqF1MSP1MSSX_m7DdKfoq0hMhz3032LfgpsnKaXcucIbzLlC03oxOK4Jz_q53K9yFgKCEYGY9OPD7k-VqsIv92OfLs1y_0cIRkdPNioLXWYOzCieunUi4CbewMcjlKOdUM2RJQHIUPQ7sOh9nsQdcd5g/s4032/20220416_113730.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb997xWjL_yKdFzLZOG6DC3c7ZieCRJ87tGjTNqF1MSP1MSSX_m7DdKfoq0hMhz3032LfgpsnKaXcucIbzLlC03oxOK4Jz_q53K9yFgKCEYGY9OPD7k-VqsIv92OfLs1y_0cIRkdPNioLXWYOzCieunUi4CbewMcjlKOdUM2RJQHIUPQ7sOh9nsQdcd5g/w480-h640/20220416_113730.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I even had the luxury of drying my towel on a tree full of apricot blossoms</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">My hostess, Ama Lanzes, suggested that I visit the Temisgam Gompa, situated high on a mountain. We trekked up, paid our respects at the Gompa and I decided to spend some time sketching the view below. My hostess pointed to two paths leading down to her house. One path was easy but she warned me that some fierce feral dogs barked and scared passersby on one of its bends. The other path was steep and full of gravel but was safe. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I started sketching the view below while the cold wind froze my fingers and face. At one point, my fingers became so stiff that the brush just fell off my hand. But I persevered and finally have a memory in my book. </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujtXfrbW3pIMe7jx7ATG6TrOyNjMqC4t80AhK-B4EfXb8T6MLwNoS3yPlonRNWxXukRxAHn7GtH24thViBipJBoDR8fHdQ3qIqVW0CNuIzdr81DzhTW0uL29v-kCUz2-EaOGfMjbhbVFYcUby9553kfE4iB8mHbJwAmU0GXUrYra61rGm3Fzo67QP86g/s2466/20220416_161635.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2057" data-original-width="2466" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujtXfrbW3pIMe7jx7ATG6TrOyNjMqC4t80AhK-B4EfXb8T6MLwNoS3yPlonRNWxXukRxAHn7GtH24thViBipJBoDR8fHdQ3qIqVW0CNuIzdr81DzhTW0uL29v-kCUz2-EaOGfMjbhbVFYcUby9553kfE4iB8mHbJwAmU0GXUrYra61rGm3Fzo67QP86g/w640-h534/20220416_161635.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">View below from Temisgam Gompa</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I returned to Yakpa homestay to see my hostess and her friends shelling apricot kernels. She told me that they collectively spend some time every day this season to do this. I was exhausted from my trek down from the Gompa. Did I mention I went to Ladakh with a swollen left ankle? Just a day before leaving Pune, I did flying kicks during my martial arts class and landed wrongly on my left foot. So, everywhere in Ladakh, where I had to walk and trek quite a bit, I went around half-limping. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I did not want to walk around any more so I sat and sketched group at work. </span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrVYsZCNJK9adCczhDl9p0UZF8pkZHvmDc50Fz8kz4tfAKh_4XTsEE1lgtkxCzyjAmtkuKny9v2UaDN2q2D5AYwQJd4ZOHzx0bC_AI-aQzS3XEYCYY9BcCtmLjH4ZE2NFfPSzAR0Pbvsh6KsuQLc4zm9I4nSWjkWmcy_VJ12O_XlmCOShl3f9rdGCq_dk/s4032/20220416_182744.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrVYsZCNJK9adCczhDl9p0UZF8pkZHvmDc50Fz8kz4tfAKh_4XTsEE1lgtkxCzyjAmtkuKny9v2UaDN2q2D5AYwQJd4ZOHzx0bC_AI-aQzS3XEYCYY9BcCtmLjH4ZE2NFfPSzAR0Pbvsh6KsuQLc4zm9I4nSWjkWmcy_VJ12O_XlmCOShl3f9rdGCq_dk/w480-h640/20220416_182744.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Women shelling apricot kernels</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The next day while strolling through the village, I saw a beautiful traditional Ladakhi house. It looked unoccupied. I started sketching it when a young man asked me if I would like to see the house from the inside. He said he could get the keys from the owner who now lived in a 'modern' house. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYz3WNi7Ep_dADIJSd-_HQD5SzszZOrZ6bUpHwvv3z6MqCWW_2jB59smtOH7ulllx4vxfOY3DtiCk7GEhfyrFoO1-SbNukP58JOX8nC2L8IbLu2nS4SFg2EKXgR-gsxzxVDArrlXsoSOXv7vLscDtThLz_yddzFZL7iwoouK5RIT6PQWdFR1BauXCZhoU/s3264/20220417_095647.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYz3WNi7Ep_dADIJSd-_HQD5SzszZOrZ6bUpHwvv3z6MqCWW_2jB59smtOH7ulllx4vxfOY3DtiCk7GEhfyrFoO1-SbNukP58JOX8nC2L8IbLu2nS4SFg2EKXgR-gsxzxVDArrlXsoSOXv7vLscDtThLz_yddzFZL7iwoouK5RIT6PQWdFR1BauXCZhoU/w640-h480/20220417_095647.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A 500 yrs old Ladakhi house in Temisgam</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The house was 500 years old and built in a traditional style with mud and stones. Traditional mud architecture is more quake and fire-resistant and very enduring as one can see. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I went around the house and there was a 250-year-old iron metal hearth for cooking in the kitchen area. Many walls had rich Tibetan Buddhist paintings, the colors chipped off over the centuries. I imagine how glorious the house must have looked in its prime. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Later that evening as luck would have it, I met the owner of this house in the market. I asked him why is such a beautiful house abandoned. He said his children wanted a concrete modern house. </span></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdU6HX_NvUASSXRJ5V0I0x_N-i4py9tDgMtao2M6jH532D5XN9Lhw9bGoqdcMuBWjQa1_tVjG-f5_EEv1F7ThT1KSd5u2NO6aY83YrvQJ7rEHCX4b8r-7zcmuOiK1kaIBsBlTy0pREXVwMti3xHa0KA7sWpa_JRZ2QMXaun2FsKCohr5CCtNbaKFPRwy4/s4032/20220417_130510.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdU6HX_NvUASSXRJ5V0I0x_N-i4py9tDgMtao2M6jH532D5XN9Lhw9bGoqdcMuBWjQa1_tVjG-f5_EEv1F7ThT1KSd5u2NO6aY83YrvQJ7rEHCX4b8r-7zcmuOiK1kaIBsBlTy0pREXVwMti3xHa0KA7sWpa_JRZ2QMXaun2FsKCohr5CCtNbaKFPRwy4/w480-h640/20220417_130510.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">84-year-old Tashi Angdus, the owner of the house.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7nriZE_BxQuqU6XbJd9OVQ-jlGBqRKe2hJ2h7V1PzD5CuBUZEpzb3AeEL5RAsaA2XOcdoA0qIVwmSHMSsRFwpft3VfUx4eg-pM-JrQQKPYz-44axk1QPj0PxsbP8xgbbnuzWYaJi_5R929AmV7ewkAg6lYDrbWg8YR4j6nP8QHWl9F8wIp0ngIjBd57M/s3264/20220417_083315.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7nriZE_BxQuqU6XbJd9OVQ-jlGBqRKe2hJ2h7V1PzD5CuBUZEpzb3AeEL5RAsaA2XOcdoA0qIVwmSHMSsRFwpft3VfUx4eg-pM-JrQQKPYz-44axk1QPj0PxsbP8xgbbnuzWYaJi_5R929AmV7ewkAg6lYDrbWg8YR4j6nP8QHWl9F8wIp0ngIjBd57M/w640-h480/20220417_083315.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">On the upper floor</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYs7Yefqi1dmni1wtUXF74GDvDWpW8qSAXfFiHiJXVvYvFezpoJF_AfhK3AtWwRkEGT9GjA8Lhyu9sR0G6-ty8G_7XegKcOGMPs9jmi2_s78vrDt5U_pnKXmR5FvVE61Yy5g1NPkQAmO_S1Jdw2GRzSPDYl5-xvbNA3RSmLh0H7onjfvdqOzlO7lsyzuc/s3264/20220417_083340.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYs7Yefqi1dmni1wtUXF74GDvDWpW8qSAXfFiHiJXVvYvFezpoJF_AfhK3AtWwRkEGT9GjA8Lhyu9sR0G6-ty8G_7XegKcOGMPs9jmi2_s78vrDt5U_pnKXmR5FvVE61Yy5g1NPkQAmO_S1Jdw2GRzSPDYl5-xvbNA3RSmLh0H7onjfvdqOzlO7lsyzuc/w640-h480/20220417_083340.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The prayer room</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixMwbrAoiO7nS5yfUuLIxp3_AtEO_IAJfylQTHSd69vA0Eoni6_QNEwoJI1Be0KyFPgAgBkse84Mvxm27MjeTpO8bF_0nsOQdLc1gfBKNIiq3KmOK6OgQSZNKfAD_OhyphenhyphenXdQOc9F02jh7vMmq7gi8BCUCx-8UtpOMoJTuolVov7YmSgmwx0AA-2JAFgOOs/s4032/20220417_083146.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixMwbrAoiO7nS5yfUuLIxp3_AtEO_IAJfylQTHSd69vA0Eoni6_QNEwoJI1Be0KyFPgAgBkse84Mvxm27MjeTpO8bF_0nsOQdLc1gfBKNIiq3KmOK6OgQSZNKfAD_OhyphenhyphenXdQOc9F02jh7vMmq7gi8BCUCx-8UtpOMoJTuolVov7YmSgmwx0AA-2JAFgOOs/w640-h480/20220417_083146.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Ladakhi hearth</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLiMrdNyjLKiELQwQP9qfUPBa15ycVkl37UCUUas-WsVxcYEwvbKLfmXkP9h9HKy4F8GPZSJROBZqFHbQZCcjyguBxzzRdrvxhxvcH2wYcfMt-bAs_YZRf2tBjmetlBd2rZKsfpFhz6W2JUuZ-6Q3bu2RXx7Dju_Awvv6HL0MqXSLCOv8uY1AvNt2Mf4/s3264/20220417_083240.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLiMrdNyjLKiELQwQP9qfUPBa15ycVkl37UCUUas-WsVxcYEwvbKLfmXkP9h9HKy4F8GPZSJROBZqFHbQZCcjyguBxzzRdrvxhxvcH2wYcfMt-bAs_YZRf2tBjmetlBd2rZKsfpFhz6W2JUuZ-6Q3bu2RXx7Dju_Awvv6HL0MqXSLCOv8uY1AvNt2Mf4/w640-h480/20220417_083240.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The kitchen</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The young man who had shown me around said he was a soldier in the Indian Army and was home on leave. When I told my mother I went to explore an abandoned house with a complete stranger she was horrified and warned me to never repeat that. But traveling solo has sharpened my instincts and I generally keep my common sense on me. I would have missed this beautiful experience if I had gone by general conditioning. So I'd rather go by my gut feeling. </span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I wandered around a little more and wanting to stuff as much of the visual delight of the snow-capped mountains into my eyes, heart, and sketchbook I did one more sketch of the mountains. If you look closely at the mountains show different colors depending on the sunlight. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1Foc8CyyulAtKll9ggGTKfdXiYtKjX776S3IZhXgoy9aQCfeBzV8xfYtQyQnID2awXNxdeUIIWSuHpEMVcZPOeAk71fRHbyn38znCScNjj60iwXTrPjmFGh0UjiBOVkokdTLrAorbzTIBURA6VPVcp41MfXOCJK5X824EuEPGLN7ZzWEPk_-H1NQNm8/s4032/20220417_124517.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1Foc8CyyulAtKll9ggGTKfdXiYtKjX776S3IZhXgoy9aQCfeBzV8xfYtQyQnID2awXNxdeUIIWSuHpEMVcZPOeAk71fRHbyn38znCScNjj60iwXTrPjmFGh0UjiBOVkokdTLrAorbzTIBURA6VPVcp41MfXOCJK5X824EuEPGLN7ZzWEPk_-H1NQNm8/w640-h480/20220417_124517.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">A couple of more old Ladakhi houses...<br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7K6pxRS63oq6SMOeBcqi6VYmB-_amZn2lBUxvLksLaFzsdUDmNP_ACMTllr24v3xvMkqjPs7YRZdXPDD8HZnTpOQhuyuHrzh1bTZ6Zvum7EuSkoI46gk8WTTZNy0xk0MdZjlzkxCOLo-mcaxixr1w5f9Kj1_oPl_597OBTaB8C7gchZh8P8a-YSxt3Q/s4032/20220417_125157.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo7K6pxRS63oq6SMOeBcqi6VYmB-_amZn2lBUxvLksLaFzsdUDmNP_ACMTllr24v3xvMkqjPs7YRZdXPDD8HZnTpOQhuyuHrzh1bTZ6Zvum7EuSkoI46gk8WTTZNy0xk0MdZjlzkxCOLo-mcaxixr1w5f9Kj1_oPl_597OBTaB8C7gchZh8P8a-YSxt3Q/w640-h480/20220417_125157.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj271mtFfN99YYEZ2yxOQ6MotYLksPFOPsvJNnUqpCY0uwLJhNYPkwsIxS8JNVtf5Gdaful9DV-8VOSZd69tA7mkDjm7TZYNZuDYMYQws7xPUh1CFD4lw9gZj_ILToa6nJMNkbqG2hrYszzRNl5xUtTrHiRGNICSCDKIWO8Qw4GcgCLgTL0KMXjKoXk-sc/s3264/20220417_183830.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj271mtFfN99YYEZ2yxOQ6MotYLksPFOPsvJNnUqpCY0uwLJhNYPkwsIxS8JNVtf5Gdaful9DV-8VOSZd69tA7mkDjm7TZYNZuDYMYQws7xPUh1CFD4lw9gZj_ILToa6nJMNkbqG2hrYszzRNl5xUtTrHiRGNICSCDKIWO8Qw4GcgCLgTL0KMXjKoXk-sc/w640-h480/20220417_183830.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I returned to Yakpa homestay after a fulfilling day of sketching. My hostess fed me sumptuously.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_lOFpdaRFbSMVJUQqW04h7dmweOWubBLbJ7bDF8LAlbt52bHECz9s1G3yphToBF1qJjhkLQuguQ-2sy3iVCifk_ciAuX3nKpVwCdfnzEO0EwCgBtIF1pK-CCJmTqONqsch_2UIZZbuQrR-lcgYrpJbwhGe_7x7hXDlj7x6jaUhfgXfJZ5lTJQWszcN9g/s4032/20220417_143005.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_lOFpdaRFbSMVJUQqW04h7dmweOWubBLbJ7bDF8LAlbt52bHECz9s1G3yphToBF1qJjhkLQuguQ-2sy3iVCifk_ciAuX3nKpVwCdfnzEO0EwCgBtIF1pK-CCJmTqONqsch_2UIZZbuQrR-lcgYrpJbwhGe_7x7hXDlj7x6jaUhfgXfJZ5lTJQWszcN9g/w480-h640/20220417_143005.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Ladakhi pasta called Chui-taki</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaKWFIzQQfDCKBin7gQ1c6YjVTy7jgX2AntWnKHeOzNedsIxbB90xwSCDvTjEAdtwoA3q-PD4JFi-BKdLelq7KVaLKkyYNm9yHoM6M39-UeY4T_NkvH-RmpDyslq-LmKvhu6Li5856sCVZvq71vZvQZf8dEWgU0mmIEZU8vKWGldD0ad88X5VElId8inM/s4032/20220417_143010.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaKWFIzQQfDCKBin7gQ1c6YjVTy7jgX2AntWnKHeOzNedsIxbB90xwSCDvTjEAdtwoA3q-PD4JFi-BKdLelq7KVaLKkyYNm9yHoM6M39-UeY4T_NkvH-RmpDyslq-LmKvhu6Li5856sCVZvq71vZvQZf8dEWgU0mmIEZU8vKWGldD0ad88X5VElId8inM/w480-h640/20220417_143010.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Ladakhi bread</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOnNzIMxMfecbHnvVbEse75dCxlNzohiDstzayViCEpI-gCwMamIyzeNd04lYlB72M4s1do0Mee8WsrxJ7Kd-xz5FprVIWP8HdOYzASI5RQ_4u1L4_XvsEdz3Cid-ejOsUmdwDTLQckd-BCuQdBWTEJcRZ2KkdUrcxqhiO-fB_XDU-8tinFXI-K3_BPo/s4032/20220417_153102.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOnNzIMxMfecbHnvVbEse75dCxlNzohiDstzayViCEpI-gCwMamIyzeNd04lYlB72M4s1do0Mee8WsrxJ7Kd-xz5FprVIWP8HdOYzASI5RQ_4u1L4_XvsEdz3Cid-ejOsUmdwDTLQckd-BCuQdBWTEJcRZ2KkdUrcxqhiO-fB_XDU-8tinFXI-K3_BPo/w480-h640/20220417_153102.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">My hostess gifted me a jar of apricot jam made by her.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIRBF9bBfB8P4P2PNi7_ky_aX_Q_Wbsn5bwWpRpTLxB4VIINI1sNYw2e3bfBU6_2s5YpDApOZrlauU_IKy5oObPqm3vLx4XVZXNPp927mZ8RUs2Q6ShpQ_8Bkvd0Qms8wheWWJIkEliHoC1vAPokRc5HgWFtBUlksVP-nf_Uz6HaujYz6ZLouGhzMgF4s/s4032/20220417_143013.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIRBF9bBfB8P4P2PNi7_ky_aX_Q_Wbsn5bwWpRpTLxB4VIINI1sNYw2e3bfBU6_2s5YpDApOZrlauU_IKy5oObPqm3vLx4XVZXNPp927mZ8RUs2Q6ShpQ_8Bkvd0Qms8wheWWJIkEliHoC1vAPokRc5HgWFtBUlksVP-nf_Uz6HaujYz6ZLouGhzMgF4s/w640-h480/20220417_143013.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Hand-made pasta shells which are then boiled in vegetable or meat soup</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqi8LEQlXlxsDJP-AJSn-PBVUCoj58IdcEE7XI5kj3h_FehHSL6rd0RKhFr77txH4cgj-WdLs3wY7393v0bPUHzDjy5xHiIwKjj2ojqVu0cLKYmieE5JQvuz8XKRxzL5MAkAfdTa5_8GcH44Zuun-q35c9_z8_KRNxd7mYkgpfs8t9AeSFL5CTrpeE0HI/s4032/20220417_180043.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqi8LEQlXlxsDJP-AJSn-PBVUCoj58IdcEE7XI5kj3h_FehHSL6rd0RKhFr77txH4cgj-WdLs3wY7393v0bPUHzDjy5xHiIwKjj2ojqVu0cLKYmieE5JQvuz8XKRxzL5MAkAfdTa5_8GcH44Zuun-q35c9_z8_KRNxd7mYkgpfs8t9AeSFL5CTrpeE0HI/w480-h640/20220417_180043.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Bukhara at Temisgam</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZxw0dtCmBNUaVL4wBGHXGsDdcvu4GohRVXhqalFwYU-a8BhOs7sm8QKVEvGMvDQ7JOQFdgZFYP-U3nkYo18-qEQxqMz2WfSuWESusL-hrwEve909-bn0tcTQxCq1Kb8XXdxIFNT6tfrN_ix7ZUJ-_MjCbF9Q76v-BluN12X-AvaK2NrtscIYN2kh9Sg/s4032/20220417_185123.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZxw0dtCmBNUaVL4wBGHXGsDdcvu4GohRVXhqalFwYU-a8BhOs7sm8QKVEvGMvDQ7JOQFdgZFYP-U3nkYo18-qEQxqMz2WfSuWESusL-hrwEve909-bn0tcTQxCq1Kb8XXdxIFNT6tfrN_ix7ZUJ-_MjCbF9Q76v-BluN12X-AvaK2NrtscIYN2kh9Sg/w640-h480/20220417_185123.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Yakpa Homestay<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> <b>You may contact Ama Lanzes of Yakpa Homestay on 9469294229.</b> </span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I had a fulfilling stay at Temisgam and took a bus back to Leh after three days. I sat next to the driver in the front and enjoyed the best panoramic views. <br /></span><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgedp6geX8yLiQE9evK5CNJRHFDg-X5L3yDfa84apGHeOkWIBTM5AOaw1iNkcgOnLY6xtq3IxVKUo5V15Q9D7wCPUAox8JzjXp6wSckn3xnB7IrXB3uJ9Jb0O49cJCfl7lqx75TdYehJ6xw0f1crXIKWUgzcBaD24xIzsRAvhBsfohgeNNXm37TA7RNUzQ/s4032/20220418_095915.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgedp6geX8yLiQE9evK5CNJRHFDg-X5L3yDfa84apGHeOkWIBTM5AOaw1iNkcgOnLY6xtq3IxVKUo5V15Q9D7wCPUAox8JzjXp6wSckn3xnB7IrXB3uJ9Jb0O49cJCfl7lqx75TdYehJ6xw0f1crXIKWUgzcBaD24xIzsRAvhBsfohgeNNXm37TA7RNUzQ/w480-h640/20220418_095915.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Bus drive from Temisgam to Leh</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVZD5fJxPnxNZNelTMB__IUyODDUP2lIxQDJwzHIMf0slhJbg27ufhOR25fSTM1xjO1Dm-XLf7UBKRDfv9xjf7xsh9bMQDwjGpvzfjfmxESSYqi9Yc8GEkiU7w0Do_j2IKCNb3EovVaiGhzBf9BFDSWo8ZNLzOalAB0crn2y92c2GBkt91OJy4eqGFl14/s4032/20220418_101922.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVZD5fJxPnxNZNelTMB__IUyODDUP2lIxQDJwzHIMf0slhJbg27ufhOR25fSTM1xjO1Dm-XLf7UBKRDfv9xjf7xsh9bMQDwjGpvzfjfmxESSYqi9Yc8GEkiU7w0Do_j2IKCNb3EovVaiGhzBf9BFDSWo8ZNLzOalAB0crn2y92c2GBkt91OJy4eqGFl14/w480-h640/20220418_101922.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Thumbnail sketches of the road from Temisgam to Leh</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLgL-sGGwSkUv4fLi2VRjYChedP4wzSHMpZ_Fv2p0dXD2BiutmjbmzxySbnSvXzkerr5vrWBUqW56INq4CxP-4jgkwYqKP_lkg3QXYv20vkWw1wUpJEPnq5ktNmSeOhAk3yMBKlJSjx3hhPtWF6NTnbR32h65gsh7C8UizlcHhUS7s6uQA7_6WudtIDQg/s4032/20220418_102608.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLgL-sGGwSkUv4fLi2VRjYChedP4wzSHMpZ_Fv2p0dXD2BiutmjbmzxySbnSvXzkerr5vrWBUqW56INq4CxP-4jgkwYqKP_lkg3QXYv20vkWw1wUpJEPnq5ktNmSeOhAk3yMBKlJSjx3hhPtWF6NTnbR32h65gsh7C8UizlcHhUS7s6uQA7_6WudtIDQg/w640-h480/20220418_102608.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Road to Leh</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">I have two other separate posts on Leh and </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/12/the-brokpas-of-garkon-sketch-travelogue.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Garkon</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. On the way back to Delhi from Leh I did another sketch of the Himalayan ranges. </span></span></div><div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2ow-JVHJuITNzUTcT9ydlj2wDkR9YdgHY1Cyv9vGHiGp6HQXD87df2xEflRVPs59xJgnAZRlaFpXdEFbzYaILonXHpxSqlUxwW5OjLYO88N0gKj-1TwD76PF9dEfPnCVKCddrHeUzZa0IE-fJAIunsWlDpjuce2_t1mtDcOFWWv9x04LRRzZyJBNx_4/s1350/279559290_4979224432159271_1830028682817006082_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA2ow-JVHJuITNzUTcT9ydlj2wDkR9YdgHY1Cyv9vGHiGp6HQXD87df2xEflRVPs59xJgnAZRlaFpXdEFbzYaILonXHpxSqlUxwW5OjLYO88N0gKj-1TwD76PF9dEfPnCVKCddrHeUzZa0IE-fJAIunsWlDpjuce2_t1mtDcOFWWv9x04LRRzZyJBNx_4/w512-h640/279559290_4979224432159271_1830028682817006082_n.jpg" width="512" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Himalayan ranges from Leh to Delhi</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjV43bOBSa_B7CGReSgHRK91zuRv5E-c3CJmbQFJFXrn9z-iLQAnd_xhyphenhypheniwMLmKg8JkJ-0C57PtZhHxIoNuyZ78NucrMILhsbcv-poCBci6zIWNuKd7Yx0hF1N_YfqT8TYGzGq9PN7hI95XPr1TiUVtj7g1DSBIHeP4qZyfD9aARs_QuiXtiiIcONT9hY/s1080/279607927_4976589512422763_2393440723157930537_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="984" data-original-width="1080" height="584" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjV43bOBSa_B7CGReSgHRK91zuRv5E-c3CJmbQFJFXrn9z-iLQAnd_xhyphenhypheniwMLmKg8JkJ-0C57PtZhHxIoNuyZ78NucrMILhsbcv-poCBci6zIWNuKd7Yx0hF1N_YfqT8TYGzGq9PN7hI95XPr1TiUVtj7g1DSBIHeP4qZyfD9aARs_QuiXtiiIcONT9hY/w640-h584/279607927_4976589512422763_2393440723157930537_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">View from my hotel in Leh</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: inherit; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium; font-weight: inherit;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may subscribe to new post updates via email. Enter your email id in the 'Follow by email' on the right-hand side panel. </span></div><br style="color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium;" /><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Facebook</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></div></span><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: var(--ricos-custom-p-background-color,unset); background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span><p></p></div></div></div></div>Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0Ladakh34.2268475 77.56194195.9166136638211526 42.405691899999994 62.537081336178844 112.7181919tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-53752924286749251512022-05-09T06:00:00.000-07:002022-05-09T06:05:23.030-07:00My Experience with Kalaripayattu<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSk31Xgur8VMMSFOF3-VupRzwBOW6A7qgOyZO-tNVO6FkcI2EVwh1r3k07Z-a9-LlZwyL5E18Ms-r-shvDdZS98B6lYtsYeiYi-3EmsDWUt_bchaqlxctfcTG4iKetpk3PopqKUlITHz55X5YhIdt-MpOKmb8MdrCD9Bwcbq1_4xmLRfE0cybgUBZ/s4160/IMG_20191212_163755395~2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSk31Xgur8VMMSFOF3-VupRzwBOW6A7qgOyZO-tNVO6FkcI2EVwh1r3k07Z-a9-LlZwyL5E18Ms-r-shvDdZS98B6lYtsYeiYi-3EmsDWUt_bchaqlxctfcTG4iKetpk3PopqKUlITHz55X5YhIdt-MpOKmb8MdrCD9Bwcbq1_4xmLRfE0cybgUBZ/w640-h480/IMG_20191212_163755395~2.jpg" title="Kalaripayattu altar" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The Kalaripayattu altar</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span><p></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Having taken a keen interest in learning martial arts since
2016, after beating up a molester (who had groped another girl), I was
fascinated by the different forms of martial arts around the world. I tried my
hand in kickboxing, Kyokushin Karate (which I learned till I got my green belt)
and Krav Maga (Israeli self-defense). And then I read up about Kalaripayattu,
which is considered the most ancient form of martial arts, originating in none
other than my own country, India. After contacting several ashrams that teach
Kalari(short form and easier on the tongue), I zeroed in on </span><a href="http://www.hindustankalari.com/" style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Hindustan Kalari Sangam</span></a><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"> in Calicut. There were no
reviews of any Kalari ashrams on the net, so I just went ahead with one of the
few ashrams that responded to my query.</span></p><p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/05/kalari-chikitsa-in-hindustan-kalari.html" target="_blank">You may also want to read my post on Kalarichikitsa</a></i></span></p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtzJbEGaxYCMmq60KVK6djzCc0_p_3xM5ezLd8shxh9ufNS-EHW0FFMUPCFFbCeR01hoDjuDMvk0jUEG3DBsyCbxjYYsOiPXhSa6rM4ynmHjlzo6pqDXHQn9LxgDbVtTpul09rNwJbakHRdaCOT2_Jc6mhl4uYZqPlvQdwdIRsoqBFWqIsUAecLHbH/s4160/IMG_20191206_093702673~2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtzJbEGaxYCMmq60KVK6djzCc0_p_3xM5ezLd8shxh9ufNS-EHW0FFMUPCFFbCeR01hoDjuDMvk0jUEG3DBsyCbxjYYsOiPXhSa6rM4ynmHjlzo6pqDXHQn9LxgDbVtTpul09rNwJbakHRdaCOT2_Jc6mhl4uYZqPlvQdwdIRsoqBFWqIsUAecLHbH/w640-h480/IMG_20191206_093702673~2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Manappully Bhagavathy temple</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">Since I was traveling to Kerala, I visited my Kuladevi in Manappully Kavu in Palakkad and then proceeded to Calicut. </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444;">I reached Calicut by train from Palakkad. A Rs
50 ride in an autorickshaw took me from the railway station to Hindustan Kalari Sangam.
I was greeted by Dr. Krishnan Lal who is the wife of Radhika Gurukkal (the daughter of the founder of </span><a href="http://www.hindustankalari.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Hindustan Kalari Sangam</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">) and taken to my room.</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiy6_8DmMncskjWz8BJyvbsP0xSAca4oycdAgwyPv1c9Te_tHwiQbIlEXbv_6Okb571V6jvQPQvJKu0DLV-q25p-jBO3QboMZB7SVN7_m7B0Vni5rJ4z8gpklnNyFpEbPqYNmIfCLcDpp2dvW6B6oLXc06S3yYEM9NXQhWyN1s3vZFQd1EN1k48tm3/s4160/IMG_20191213_072101606.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiy6_8DmMncskjWz8BJyvbsP0xSAca4oycdAgwyPv1c9Te_tHwiQbIlEXbv_6Okb571V6jvQPQvJKu0DLV-q25p-jBO3QboMZB7SVN7_m7B0Vni5rJ4z8gpklnNyFpEbPqYNmIfCLcDpp2dvW6B6oLXc06S3yYEM9NXQhWyN1s3vZFQd1EN1k48tm3/w640-h480/IMG_20191213_072101606.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Accommodation at Hindustan Kalari Sangam </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The premises of the HKS (Hindustan Kalari
Sangam) comprises a building with rooms for students of Kalari and patients for Kalari Chikitsa,
the house where the family that runs the ashram lives, the Kalari, where the
art is practiced and another single storied structure where Dr. Lal and his
assistants see and treat patients. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0BZwbmMZU-IUBZu4-V0NOMmfcczM85KObv2moHMbJT00h_6G5wy8FsY6OhZnyizDDXqt9nz-86zb6r6mDLfnjhZppNqYPukQUtz03SVXvpmndA8vFWgehakcVsdvhNZPWhIzEnStJ2Ef0V1zFK67sJ7ag4-M7z3Scb4CuyZAs7HNwlbJN3NJ5M_g/s4160/IMG_20191207_173955088.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0BZwbmMZU-IUBZu4-V0NOMmfcczM85KObv2moHMbJT00h_6G5wy8FsY6OhZnyizDDXqt9nz-86zb6r6mDLfnjhZppNqYPukQUtz03SVXvpmndA8vFWgehakcVsdvhNZPWhIzEnStJ2Ef0V1zFK67sJ7ag4-M7z3Scb4CuyZAs7HNwlbJN3NJ5M_g/w480-h640/IMG_20191207_173955088.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Dr. Krishnan Lal treating patients</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Hindustan Kalari Sangam, is an ancestral Kalarippayattu
training center and Ayurvedic healing centre established during the year of
1950, under the patronage of Guru Veerasree Sami Gurukkal. Currently, it is run by his children Lakshmanan Gurukkal and Radhika Gurukkal.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="background: white;"><span>Kalaripayattu
is a combination of two words, âkalariâ which means the space where the
training is conducted and âpayattuâ which means action involving performance or
combat. </span></span><span style="background-color: white;">Kalaripayattu as practiced in its current form
can be traced back to the 18</span><sup style="background-color: white;">th</sup><span style="background-color: white;"> century by the verbal commands used in
language during that period. But there has been evidence of Kalaris from the 12</span><sup style="background-color: white;">th</sup><span style="background-color: white;">
century. There were numerous provinces in Kerala during that time and each
province had its own army trained in Kalaripayattu. There were no caste
restrictions in Kalari and literature from earlier periods refers to people
from all backgrounds practicing the art form. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">The British had banned Kalaripayattu for around 300 years
because they saw how fearless the Kalaripayattu practitioners were. But a few
masters kept the art alive by practicing in secrecy and passing the knowledge
to the next generation. And after Independence thanks to those brave masters
there was again a slow albeit sure revival of Kalaripayattu. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOYQ8gYgUvjsXqvGTbRWzYAlNF6ZMhpKZz6B0hvhYy7iMjL8ddCqEtVuQWPwpHVmQE3Vp6U9dfccvAbDTYdi0sdJ2qnGnSN77hhhnuNYgJiOHe8w3AVs7K2Ck-2DZxxLesRet4_34IpR4CKE3pWG4J86WelNOmObkTDTswWl9vYMRx7qy5w2l4AQE/s4160/IMG_20191208_125615379~2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOYQ8gYgUvjsXqvGTbRWzYAlNF6ZMhpKZz6B0hvhYy7iMjL8ddCqEtVuQWPwpHVmQE3Vp6U9dfccvAbDTYdi0sdJ2qnGnSN77hhhnuNYgJiOHe8w3AVs7K2Ck-2DZxxLesRet4_34IpR4CKE3pWG4J86WelNOmObkTDTswWl9vYMRx7qy5w2l4AQE/w640-h480/IMG_20191208_125615379~2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Kalari, where the art is practiced</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvYC1C05tWps8YjmmycfTVxaqQU5MoEFsJLhp0grOk6OOLOcpzjlIAaHBchEMc156JZNbfBM31uhcJyuqrdtQBWxPCSYWOyNiTSb2PXfc98Y24WkWwq_pVIsM1d8vVSzMoBKYzmZChSnHY17OSx2DEmD7Oa3LfYVEtJ-qbCDStsuYasqoknygkwmc/s4160/IMG_20191208_105921460~2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvYC1C05tWps8YjmmycfTVxaqQU5MoEFsJLhp0grOk6OOLOcpzjlIAaHBchEMc156JZNbfBM31uhcJyuqrdtQBWxPCSYWOyNiTSb2PXfc98Y24WkWwq_pVIsM1d8vVSzMoBKYzmZChSnHY17OSx2DEmD7Oa3LfYVEtJ-qbCDStsuYasqoknygkwmc/w640-h480/IMG_20191208_105921460~2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Kalari resembles a Kerala temple and it is in a way!</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The Kalari (the place
where Kalaripayattu is practiced) looks like a typical Kerala style temple and
is constructed as per Vastu Shastra and tantric traditions of Kalari. Inside,
the floor is 7 feet below ground level and is dark like the garba gruha (sanctum
sanctorum) of a temple. The area of the Kalari is 42 feet in length and 21 feet
in width and can be made smaller or bigger in the same ratio. The Kalari is
constructed to stand in the east-west direction with the entrance facing east. The
floor is just the mud leveled up. Once a year the mud is dug up and freshly
patted down. The dark interiors serve to aid focus and a meditative state
during the practice of Kalari because the aim of Kalaripayattu is not
brilliance in martial arts but rather lead the disciple on the path of 'moksha'
or liberation.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/02/retracing-path-of-nomadic-shepherds-in.html" target="_blank"><i>You may like to read my blog post on 'The Nomadic Shepherd's Trail'</i></a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV3ySWxG7j2kvJpRnLxOQCSVDL05DSmEkA255VUqDkNmNBGscglIivR60IpBsTLNs74iVu_OuFAmHGJjyiQvJvoTWx1i6qridLSCz8rbhFbM9MlbQTB-3HuGUtX5o3qmAak_9VU0HhCm_GUk_ZsK-oWBvP9CuFB3WHIxIlxUQ_E8gh6iYejZ4cnPMz/s4160/IMG_20191207_174921931.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV3ySWxG7j2kvJpRnLxOQCSVDL05DSmEkA255VUqDkNmNBGscglIivR60IpBsTLNs74iVu_OuFAmHGJjyiQvJvoTWx1i6qridLSCz8rbhFbM9MlbQTB-3HuGUtX5o3qmAak_9VU0HhCm_GUk_ZsK-oWBvP9CuFB3WHIxIlxUQ_E8gh6iYejZ4cnPMz/w640-h480/IMG_20191207_174921931.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Action inside the Kalari</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="text-align: left;">The presiding deity of
Kalaripayattu is Khaloorika Devi and she is represented by a 7-step platform,
symbolizing the 7 chakras. This sacred structure is placed in the south-west
direction of the Kalari and is worshiped everyday. This corner is called Poothara
and every practice session begins and ends with a salutation in the direction
of the Poothara which translates to âplatform of flowersâ. </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; text-align: left;">The
other divine spaces in Kalari are Ganapathi thara (a platform for Sri Ganesha),Naga
thara (a platform for a snake god) Guruthara (a platform for the late
teachers), Bhadrakali thara (a platform for Bhadrakali), etc.</span></span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYr60xBEe4CQqZv9O0vHeXQ6EffAlUdm85u9ok5gxfpzzYSKt8YKaMT4bgA3elqFM6r6bJ6T13uaJ9FMJIFaigbzQhtrtfB4YA_UDi4J_M5x1ry8PuUKMd3KY3_c1PvHlUd8vVX-ubGJ5_CIch-j6rhPYBa3gKXVpIFt19yINWNoscujluVyjntVna/s4160/IMG_20191210_201213257.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYr60xBEe4CQqZv9O0vHeXQ6EffAlUdm85u9ok5gxfpzzYSKt8YKaMT4bgA3elqFM6r6bJ6T13uaJ9FMJIFaigbzQhtrtfB4YA_UDi4J_M5x1ry8PuUKMd3KY3_c1PvHlUd8vVX-ubGJ5_CIch-j6rhPYBa3gKXVpIFt19yINWNoscujluVyjntVna/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_201213257.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The main altar of Khaloorika devi and the late teachers</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzrFU1Up48HXCfyHfEVerNQFqJHgISqv7JdVyn0e8uyCL7Mq1ppPITvovHqWhDNKzrIZYYzXKQm8fwj98b3HVehV5DLvP9Vs-j4_Yv0bPoMqevuZy0lwxk6bKApA3YblLgNehsCKab9JRyB68YV_JSoQ35BLIHILwOYpk3nI-8NEP5dPk_hyb7ZzN/s4160/IMG_20191210_201159933.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzrFU1Up48HXCfyHfEVerNQFqJHgISqv7JdVyn0e8uyCL7Mq1ppPITvovHqWhDNKzrIZYYzXKQm8fwj98b3HVehV5DLvP9Vs-j4_Yv0bPoMqevuZy0lwxk6bKApA3YblLgNehsCKab9JRyB68YV_JSoQ35BLIHILwOYpk3nI-8NEP5dPk_hyb7ZzN/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_201159933.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weapons on display which are used by senior students</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXvQ2jxTnwzNQRHXEwxlOB0etXLiYej_wPS7K9BYRXw25j2YK4vOg32FG5sJV6ZU4Cbk00D42kjU_y-8blqwI2kMZnmrVoVmjb4AfcWUeHqtqHukGVEW_ZHISfpt5scd9x7JI2CVae_A1T_fv9AJVO-W-J5c7fJXe7GOhnXVXoI2aHcmSK-FDfZkcG/s4160/IMG_20191210_201145896.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXvQ2jxTnwzNQRHXEwxlOB0etXLiYej_wPS7K9BYRXw25j2YK4vOg32FG5sJV6ZU4Cbk00D42kjU_y-8blqwI2kMZnmrVoVmjb4AfcWUeHqtqHukGVEW_ZHISfpt5scd9x7JI2CVae_A1T_fv9AJVO-W-J5c7fJXe7GOhnXVXoI2aHcmSK-FDfZkcG/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_201145896.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long steel sword is the Urumi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_nyQTQ6_WmGzFAm-fKlF7uJj1Nd_i7EfDG-AcNi-E3tUG3f8Ub5e2YO4FoaTNXVAvDrqworQe2wO12vCkUAcdavhqazDiXA0aQPD2wwGJTtYDaP7-UOYdrQcY2ZNzD9j2lt7OJmEX438-64v3FsdRvu7bcL5Q1l1IjK5t_8RTsUCjeRGpreG7A3L/s4160/IMG_20191210_201137577.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt_nyQTQ6_WmGzFAm-fKlF7uJj1Nd_i7EfDG-AcNi-E3tUG3f8Ub5e2YO4FoaTNXVAvDrqworQe2wO12vCkUAcdavhqazDiXA0aQPD2wwGJTtYDaP7-UOYdrQcY2ZNzD9j2lt7OJmEX438-64v3FsdRvu7bcL5Q1l1IjK5t_8RTsUCjeRGpreG7A3L/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_201137577.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short and long swords</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBpubnc_K65nP8FOtICd8C-vPgpIrSj00Jy_YPIal3iLSrM4vbkiG3Kvs4_YD_mOtL59OoL8SiTiRcUp4xTbg2RmQeAtYyJF7Vkg7BpiSK_jG4tAs2DiJMcX0yO_mTyi3btE8l_wj8LVa2qwJ04aVzXC4HHoGH4YvbEJR0QUZmpR2611NQEzzYQ2_1/s4160/IMG_20191210_201120637.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBpubnc_K65nP8FOtICd8C-vPgpIrSj00Jy_YPIal3iLSrM4vbkiG3Kvs4_YD_mOtL59OoL8SiTiRcUp4xTbg2RmQeAtYyJF7Vkg7BpiSK_jG4tAs2DiJMcX0yO_mTyi3btE8l_wj8LVa2qwJ04aVzXC4HHoGH4YvbEJR0QUZmpR2611NQEzzYQ2_1/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_201120637.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ganapathy and Naga Thara</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="background: white;">The minimum age to start Kalari practice is 7 years, although
I saw some children who looked younger than that, attend class. The initiation
usually happens on an auspicious day like Vijayadashami. I myself got to
experience a glimpse of the ancient ritual on the 1<sup>st</sup> day of my
class. </span><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;">On the first day, I was asked to step into the
Kalari area with my right foot first as we do for auspicious occasions and then
touch the Kalari floor in reverence. Then I was led to the main altar of
Khaloorika Devi and then the oil from the altar lamp was applied to my head and
arms as a mark of initiation. I then had to offer Guru dakshina wrapped in a
betel leaf to the teacher who is referred to as Gurukkal and then touch his
feet. The kalari area where the art is practised is considered the sanctum
sanctorum or 'garba gruha' as in a temple and the Kalari practitioner is the
priest or the devotee who offers himself to the higher power through the Kalari
practice. The Kalari sessions start with an elaborate salutation to Khaloorika
devi and every time we step in or out of the Kalari area we touch the floor
with reverence. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6yrsWD03MA-qt_Z0nhLr5OplOVaJKmGL7VIIOOHMrqiHDi3fUZ0lFYwpTE1TXAk4aIXjXHxbHnNX5RfzOrzxQLsoQR1047Lcu7oJyFpvC4rLa_mHYkPQmal96ZfuwHH5Jntphq1oNebo5Hfx2surfEIg7JrvRgLzuH3JfScR4f30DVW1xJtr0uTQx/s4160/IMG_20191212_163755395~2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6yrsWD03MA-qt_Z0nhLr5OplOVaJKmGL7VIIOOHMrqiHDi3fUZ0lFYwpTE1TXAk4aIXjXHxbHnNX5RfzOrzxQLsoQR1047Lcu7oJyFpvC4rLa_mHYkPQmal96ZfuwHH5Jntphq1oNebo5Hfx2surfEIg7JrvRgLzuH3JfScR4f30DVW1xJtr0uTQx/w640-h480/IMG_20191212_163755395~2.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">Another thing I will
never forget is my first few minutes of the first day of class. I was the first
woman to enter the Kalari area and there were other students, boys and men,
with nothing but a loin cloth for modesty, vigorously applying oil on the
bodies. I was a bit embarrassed and didnât know where to look. Soon after, the
other women students came along and I was relieved and also got used to the
sight the remaining days. Students apply a herbal oil all over their body before practice, although I did not do that. The oil stimulates the 'vata' energy according to Ayurveda which is beneficial to the Kalari practitioner.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ9N-xaqY00WrLEbDfjRnNKh8fDulkrex4OBqf_8npfTmIm_D6cT2tUrqAmEcWd5XOT5NReR1srmzvSmb_WDYO9PVlF4TYT4exBTLthIRdO2g14M7JR2egxwvDLhefwYhCsdXYZo11hCfy-v9DW0-Zpnh8YWWODMWibuOD7YapTpUzLbD9J9gRfIuH/s4160/IMG_20191210_195701342.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ9N-xaqY00WrLEbDfjRnNKh8fDulkrex4OBqf_8npfTmIm_D6cT2tUrqAmEcWd5XOT5NReR1srmzvSmb_WDYO9PVlF4TYT4exBTLthIRdO2g14M7JR2egxwvDLhefwYhCsdXYZo11hCfy-v9DW0-Zpnh8YWWODMWibuOD7YapTpUzLbD9J9gRfIuH/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_195701342.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">There were some guests for the Kalari performance so I got to watch too.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">There are different stages of training in
Kalaripayattu. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">First is <b>Meipayattu</b> which translates to
training the body. Students are trained
in unique body movements which work the
spine and the development of grip and postures of the body. </span><span>Kalaripayattu includes a lot of animal
movements and postures inspired from </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">lion, cat, boar, snake, elephant, etc </span><span>and due to this requires one to be in more of
a horizontal posture during most of the practice. Which means your quads and
hamstrings will be tested to the maximum. This horizontal posture is vital for
the flow of energy through the chakras efficiently. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The second stage is <b>Kolthari</b> where the usage of
various wooden weapons is initiated and practiced during this stage of
learning. In Kalaripayattu the weapons are considered as extensions of the
body, whereas the body itself is perceived as the prime weapon. Various wooden
weapons used in the stage of Kolthari are, Kettukari (Long stick), Cheru vati
(Short stick), Otta (Curved Stick) Gada (Mace).<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-add-space: auto;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUVsSlrcC5Ourb_143ZRxrFPIjaw9RxOkvTDFxJ0eiML-xRruExPWA59Vl8d6m9XfTi1Xt1Es5DlVUTLiOgamaqWlf0WnROkV4PBjM_YVLtbw93xgXz5cnG8R3GTUEaZbGBC99ZUJNwv-F4obu7rfwHwVW78Ds6q06SjdTiOXRadQV1Wj1S9cKvRj/s4160/IMG_20191210_194110536.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUUVsSlrcC5Ourb_143ZRxrFPIjaw9RxOkvTDFxJ0eiML-xRruExPWA59Vl8d6m9XfTi1Xt1Es5DlVUTLiOgamaqWlf0WnROkV4PBjM_YVLtbw93xgXz5cnG8R3GTUEaZbGBC99ZUJNwv-F4obu7rfwHwVW78Ds6q06SjdTiOXRadQV1Wj1S9cKvRj/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_194110536.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Salutations before starting.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><b>Ankathari</b> is the next and important stage in the training
sequence as heavy metal weapons are used. The term Ankam means a combat or a
war. The metal weapons used in this stage are the same weapons that were used
in war in the earlier times. It is
considered to be the longest and most important training stage among the four.
This stage requires strength, agility and precision in rendering the practice and
delivering the combat. The main weapons are Vaal (Sword), Paricha (Shield),
Kuntham (Spear), Kattaram (Dagger), Urumi (Flexible sword). I had the
opportunity to see Radhika Gurukkal and Sajith Gurukkal do a sparring session
with Urumi. The Urumi is unique to Kalaripayattu. It is a steel, double edged
flexible whip and sword and is about 6 feet in length. It is tied to the
fighterâs waist as a belt and is removed when it has to be put to use. Because
itâs a whip, wielding it with precision takes years of practice. The two people
sparring leaped almost 4 feet up in the air (almost an act of levitation)
wielding the Urumi which created sparks and sound as the blades struck against
each other. Their movements were so graceful, yet so precise and strong. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtU4cTinV4yWcOzabNHbFkl8P8uCHVp9R8XCI1rb2KtYJdq1ISFRZXKmC2xCp085IMypRa79MIJy0OUpSUqzydk7bxQtduVDYMeKhJA3-SmYhG9Q6EP6__ZGfy20d6jyXQ75fOEOg_3L_5dkLFGxMeNh8VY1nVj3fQ4cI_sYS8sUWSr0vgpiv9SzS/s4160/IMG_20191210_194311253.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtU4cTinV4yWcOzabNHbFkl8P8uCHVp9R8XCI1rb2KtYJdq1ISFRZXKmC2xCp085IMypRa79MIJy0OUpSUqzydk7bxQtduVDYMeKhJA3-SmYhG9Q6EP6__ZGfy20d6jyXQ75fOEOg_3L_5dkLFGxMeNh8VY1nVj3fQ4cI_sYS8sUWSr0vgpiv9SzS/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_194311253.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Girls using wooden sticks.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">The last stage in the Kalari training is <b>Verum Kai</b> which
means bare handed. Unlike other forms of martial arts like Karate or Taekwondo,
where the training starts with bare hands and then progresses to weapons such
as nunchaku or sticks, in Kalari, bare handed combat is reserved only after one
has mastered weapons. The Verum Kai techniques are practiced along with the
knowledge of Marma Saariram, the knowledge about the vital points of the body.
It is considered that there are 108/109 vital points in the body where the life
energy is concentrated. Striking some vital points can be fatal whereas some points
are struck for hurting, some to make the other unconscious during combat. This
system of practice is the integral part of the fourth stage of Kalaripayattu training. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5utxHXJwlJz4EDLCfV6l5RduR1qvI_2Fivg88MPHcb4FZV1iF8PQhzqO5TXFVCGfiwS_LWohh0XlMpWwRqN78rvqddrREsxXBr0_LHLTN3FedQIIuM4o-6c2vGCcjzNRaew66-jGQuWSYw3rxqG6mum8n5ymrmyq5zpmxgYkx8g5BKyKhZEXDwGJO/s4160/IMG_20191212_115205859.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5utxHXJwlJz4EDLCfV6l5RduR1qvI_2Fivg88MPHcb4FZV1iF8PQhzqO5TXFVCGfiwS_LWohh0XlMpWwRqN78rvqddrREsxXBr0_LHLTN3FedQIIuM4o-6c2vGCcjzNRaew66-jGQuWSYw3rxqG6mum8n5ymrmyq5zpmxgYkx8g5BKyKhZEXDwGJO/w480-h640/IMG_20191212_115205859.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Lakshmanan Gurukkal </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">There are considerable differences in the North Kerala and
South Kerala traditions of Kalaripayattu. Hindustan Kalari Sangam practices the
South Kerala style which focuses on Meipayattu more than the Northern style. Since
Kalaripayattu is no longer required for combat these days, it has evolved into more
of a performing arts. While I was there, there were people from the theater and
dance background who had come to learn Kalari. So this ancient martial arts
form has adapted to find a place in contemporary dance and theater too. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I was there for 8 days and there were classes morning and
evening for 1.5 hours each. Although I enjoyed the classes a lot, the heat and
the humidity got to me (ironically in the âwinterâ month of December) and I had
a nasty sore throat with the continuous sweating. Although I had plans to go back for the longer training, I won't because I have low tolerance for hot and humd weather.. However, if there is Kalaripayattu training in Pune, I would be most eager to enroll for a long term period. <o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiigD_6UiS-dFKgQiE-OV62D4CAolKyo6JKBg1HwzVevo2ih76uIOapmUDbpNHOhM3zS50JMjfLmnUx2NDsNzxvD3N2tiUSbuKqCNRE0mx9BoSWJYP2MQ6m31cAo6noXIJpQMsZUTGJlDozsf55gDa9_EPWo3MWHYg9FooVUweFcQyiTNNCMOXUAiH/s4160/IMG_20191211_125355802.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiigD_6UiS-dFKgQiE-OV62D4CAolKyo6JKBg1HwzVevo2ih76uIOapmUDbpNHOhM3zS50JMjfLmnUx2NDsNzxvD3N2tiUSbuKqCNRE0mx9BoSWJYP2MQ6m31cAo6noXIJpQMsZUTGJlDozsf55gDa9_EPWo3MWHYg9FooVUweFcQyiTNNCMOXUAiH/w640-h480/IMG_20191211_125355802.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Fruit and vegetable seller near the ashram</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKC1EvxrlhkN9mEbpEP8Bmv42uc8tgrsX-FIrRdXyV15Z8edtErwlq1ygrUvkmM0hCHz1WXYfuJ1n46wsUhVl6xXl8EpUp9PzQ-dVyeeiHNbQJHJtZXTwpb_2eCsxKwd3h7HEhwcBMT3TThu5OImwQlrdqhknDdoLJ6WUQDOJHsKnh-nuoxvbaJVg9/s4160/IMG_20191211_125553267.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKC1EvxrlhkN9mEbpEP8Bmv42uc8tgrsX-FIrRdXyV15Z8edtErwlq1ygrUvkmM0hCHz1WXYfuJ1n46wsUhVl6xXl8EpUp9PzQ-dVyeeiHNbQJHJtZXTwpb_2eCsxKwd3h7HEhwcBMT3TThu5OImwQlrdqhknDdoLJ6WUQDOJHsKnh-nuoxvbaJVg9/w640-h480/IMG_20191211_125553267.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different varieties of bananas.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="background: white;">The accommodation is basic. There are fans and no AC. The
dining is in the main house where the family lives and the food is simple and
delicious, made in the local way. I ate a lot of bananas and sweet pineapples
while I was there. I was amazed to see how the younger Gurukkals like Sajith
who were Kalari instructors and also doubled up as Kalarichikitsa interns to
Dr. Lal worked from morning to night, ate the same simple food and kept so lean
and fit with not a shred of fat on their bodies. However, I noticed that there
were some other instructors as well as students who were very flexible but did
not fit the normal description of âfitâ. </span><span style="background: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><o:p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">Lastly, on the last day of my stay there, I went for a traditional Kalari massage given by Radhika Gurukkal. After that I asked her about Kalaripayattu being the most ancient form of martial arts. She told me in a matter of fact manner that Kalaripayattu is a spiritual means of transcending the physical to attain liberation or 'Moksha' (as is the aim of any Indian art form). A true master of Kalaripayattu knows no fear and by his very aura will not attract any experience that will require him to use it as combat. How profound! It came as a revelation to me that martial arts is more for self- discipline and defending oneself becomes just an effortless by product of training ones' body and senses. </span></span></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></o:p></span></p><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may subscribe to new posts updates via email. Enter your email id in the 'Follow by email' on the right hand side panel. </span></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></o:p></span></p><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Facebook</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> and </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/purplesoulart/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Instagram</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> .</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p><br /></p>Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-71183137841653963902022-05-09T04:35:00.006-07:002022-05-09T05:51:34.384-07:00Kalari Chikitsa in Hindustan Kalari Sangam<p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RaFfSzUSoLF9izzxy6fEbj_6_tNKjcOoAEQ7Jibcz2ZViJdf19qfBEXfesHQSqjl5gdqiNQJ14CFCX3dfNI0g4cdC1yx6dR5FQ7KNk8pCM4yQiyJxvFexGvlAiytpi5YMctM7RM1c3nD5Ph7ElnPlvBYYSUrBhVUUvuyBc59ZGx8Z-pT7OWzzIWW/s4160/IMG_20191208_125615379~2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4RaFfSzUSoLF9izzxy6fEbj_6_tNKjcOoAEQ7Jibcz2ZViJdf19qfBEXfesHQSqjl5gdqiNQJ14CFCX3dfNI0g4cdC1yx6dR5FQ7KNk8pCM4yQiyJxvFexGvlAiytpi5YMctM7RM1c3nD5Ph7ElnPlvBYYSUrBhVUUvuyBc59ZGx8Z-pT7OWzzIWW/w640-h480/IMG_20191208_125615379~2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Kalari at Hindustan Kalari Sangam</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="color: #050505;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span><span style="color: #050505;">During my </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/05/my-experience-with-kalaripayattu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">8-day training</span></a><span style="color: #050505;"> in Kalaripayattu at </span></span><a href="http://www.hindustankalari.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Hindustan Kalari Sangam</span></a><span style="color: #050505;"> in Calicut, I had the opportunity to learn about Kalarichikitsa. Chikitsa means medicine and it is an
important aspect of Kalaripayattu which deals with medicine and healing.
Although Kalarichikitsa comes under the broader umbrella of Ayurveda, it is
unique in its own way. Each Kalari ashram has its own unique and secret herbal
recipe for various injuries and is not shared openly. The Kalari system is
still very traditional in the sense that not all Kalaripayattu students are
initiated into kalarichikitsa. It's only after the Kalaripayattu disciple after
many years of Kalari practice has won the trust of the guru that he or she is
initiated into chikitsa. Kalarichikitsa deals with different vital points of
the body which are responsible for flow of energy. Even in Kalaripayattu, after
many years of practice the disciple is taught the vital points or marmas.
Different marmas when struck have a different effect. Striking some marma
points can be fatal, some may render one unconscious, some may only cause pain,
etc.</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #050505;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><span style="color: red;"> </span><span style="color: #2b00fe;"> <a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2022/05/my-experience-with-kalaripayattu.html" target="_blank">You may want to read my post on my experience in Kalaripayattu</a></span></i></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnt9p-kkSYFD2vaMLMY-smHTNF0Y0KDA_5h0Z-YJp64c_XDJRCoTssj6TrUpcP4miu5RihqF06N6bNOQim_cHCXRcZpIJrLFgr3tAW-hetouH_mqgEJnriPVlPB3_1oO4Kik1pHjFptdMIoIiLV7X4ZY_CBIsY7zUvTkxRQOkH8_hiGL898dsJdTk/s4160/IMG_20191210_103615599.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnt9p-kkSYFD2vaMLMY-smHTNF0Y0KDA_5h0Z-YJp64c_XDJRCoTssj6TrUpcP4miu5RihqF06N6bNOQim_cHCXRcZpIJrLFgr3tAW-hetouH_mqgEJnriPVlPB3_1oO4Kik1pHjFptdMIoIiLV7X4ZY_CBIsY7zUvTkxRQOkH8_hiGL898dsJdTk/w640-h480/IMG_20191210_103615599.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Sketch of the process of the herbal preparation</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="color: #050505;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #212529; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Kalari uzhichil or Kalari massage is a very important aspect of Kalaripayattu. The entire body is massaged with a herbal oil in a very methodical way. The strokes involved in the massage, is practiced in the way of Akshara kettu and Akka kettu, which means the strokes of the massage is executed in the form of letters and numbers. The massage is executed by hand as well as by the feet. I went for a massage by Radhika Gurukkal and saw that she held on to a thick rope suspended from the ceiling and worked her feet up and down my body. The massage helps to facilitate the healthy flow of the Vata energy in the system, in-turn helps to promote healthy tissue conversion, waste disposal and harnessing of body-mind-soul coordination and integrity. Kalari massage is an effective way to treat various disorders of the body such as, inter-vertebral disc prolapses, cervical spondilitis, frozen shoulder, and many other disease conditions pertaining to musculoskeletal and neurological origins. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacteEMxNTMvpsyUE2vky4T5HsE9WRhWwbCKvBFHLquQa_BbZ8QLB9Cm4JoOBLbVR_2hqcCLndcY79-lL9oqRxALuoNol36Lcaeqxb_60yf6ck6dgn4XR7Sk1QcvnoY3LquJqzWRzL30crqzK_wrUxIYr57mlGCm6CtNiJUkQys1Fijr56-GAEmf_p/s4160/IMG_20191207_173712929.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacteEMxNTMvpsyUE2vky4T5HsE9WRhWwbCKvBFHLquQa_BbZ8QLB9Cm4JoOBLbVR_2hqcCLndcY79-lL9oqRxALuoNol36Lcaeqxb_60yf6ck6dgn4XR7Sk1QcvnoY3LquJqzWRzL30crqzK_wrUxIYr57mlGCm6CtNiJUkQys1Fijr56-GAEmf_p/w640-h480/IMG_20191207_173712929.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Kalari doctor examining a boy's leg</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3twRKYzcsMzFFj1Prl3bW4Bb6pYtJGRMJvk-SYRHTiwmVYRdpMzO-m0jKdhvubnwxp9RVhhAHVOuFh3sfIoyrlUUf1oRVyVHm4wBAyKH74_BwD-j-ZAb0qP4onVHhk_CWFqRKPuFWPafUsxj828-b4uVf-25cqy2IqiaskS8gQDWC5M905T9JuEo/s4160/IMG_20191207_173933936.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3twRKYzcsMzFFj1Prl3bW4Bb6pYtJGRMJvk-SYRHTiwmVYRdpMzO-m0jKdhvubnwxp9RVhhAHVOuFh3sfIoyrlUUf1oRVyVHm4wBAyKH74_BwD-j-ZAb0qP4onVHhk_CWFqRKPuFWPafUsxj828-b4uVf-25cqy2IqiaskS8gQDWC5M905T9JuEo/w480-h640/IMG_20191207_173933936.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Herbal paste preparation</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="color: #212529;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #050505;">I went to the room
where the herbal medicine is prepared. The secret herbal paste is boiled with
milk and mixed with arrow root powder and left to settle for the next day (this
part I haven't sketched). Next is whenever a patient comes, one spoon of the
herbal paste is mixed with an egg in a pestle. Meanwhile strips of cloth are
torn and each strip is dunked into the egg and herbal paste and bandaged onto
the affected area of the patient. Egg is used because it's a natural source of
protein which aids in healing the skin. Depending on the injury, the length of
the cloth, the pressure applied, the way it is tied varies. Patients came with
diverse problems such as sprains, ligament tear, fractures, swelling and other
musculoskeletal problems. </span><span style="color: #212529;">Kalari Chikitsa is capable of healing any kind of bone fractures which are not in the category of surgical intervention such as, fractures of skull etc. </span><span style="color: #050505;">The time taken to heal in Kalarichikitsa is
drastically less than in conventional medicine. For example a fracture which
would normally take around 4 to 6 months to heal in conventional medicine takes
around a month to heal in kalarichikitsa. Amazing isn't it! </span><span style="color: #050505;">There are different medicated oil preparations too, some oils are used for the head, some for the body and some for internal consumption. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #050505; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">I think Kalari Chikitsa should be more widely propagated and practiced outside of Kerala too, for the benefit of everyone.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #050505; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #050505; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16.8pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may subscribe to new posts updates via email. Enter your email id in the 'Follow by email' on the right hand side panel. </span></span></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #050505; line-height: 14.124px;"><o:p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br style="color: black;" /></span></o:p></span></p><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: #444444; text-align: justify;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" style="text-align: justify; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Facebook</span></a><span><span style="color: #444444;"> and </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/purplesoulart/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Instagram</span></a></span></span></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><br /></p>Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-17156263708050039732020-06-23T05:53:00.001-07:002020-06-23T06:04:43.074-07:00Garung Thunk- A Revolutionary NGO in Shergaon, Arunachal Pradesh<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Members of the Garung Thuk- Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was sometime in the second half of 2018 that I read about
a small community run library called Garung Thuk in a tiny village in Arunachal
Pradesh. While usually I spend many months of research on my solo travel
destinations, I was immediately intrigued by this unique library located in a
tiny village called Shergaon. After scouring the net for some contact number I
found one on a Facebook group. It belonged to Dr. Lobsang Tashi, who is one of
the founding members of the library. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Soon, I planned my itinerary with him, booked my flight and
found myself in a picturesque village nestled in a valley. Dorjee Khandu
Thungon, another founding member of Garung Thuk remarked, âBollywood goes
abroad for scenic locations and the North-east movie makers come to Shergaonâ.
And I could understand why. Being in the temperate region, Shergaon experiences
four distinct seasons and I had visited in Spring. Everywhere you looked was a
picture postcard shot, with oak trees sprouting tender red and green leaves, birds
chirping and serenading their mates, bees and butterflies buzzing about
pollinating flowers, the mountains standing guard in the background and a river
gurgling across. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/wild-vegetables-festival-at-bhomale.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like to read my blog post on the Wild vegetables festival too</span>. </a></i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vQ2HCmgSp3c/XvHwNj-FzoI/AAAAAAAAFyI/Psu9ipQ-z-UrXwc8aM4jWHcBxXJhPGuowCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/95664145_10163569722785652_24921659404189696_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vQ2HCmgSp3c/XvHwNj-FzoI/AAAAAAAAFyI/Psu9ipQ-z-UrXwc8aM4jWHcBxXJhPGuowCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/95664145_10163569722785652_24921659404189696_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Beautiful Shergaon- "We are at the end of the spring.. elders in my village tells me that.. nyi nyi phangmu (rainbow) is a bridge for the Angels to visit Earth to fetch water". Caption text and photo by Dorjee Thungon.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shergaon is home to the Sherdukpen tribe who are spread in the
villages of Rupa, Jigaon and Shergaon. Around 1000 members of the tribe reside
in Shergaon and everyone knows everybody else in the village. Originally from
Tibet, having migrated this side hundreds of years ago, </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2020/06/the-nature-whisperers-of-sherdukpen.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">they follow TibetanBuddhism along with their Animist practices.</span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Sherdukpens are a very closely knit community with an
incredible sense of pride in their tradition and culture as I discovered over
the period of my stay with them. And it is to maintain this very fabric of
their culture that Garung Thuk, a non-profit organization was established in October
2014. And this is evident by the name, Garung Thuk, which means âour villageâ. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="1200" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zt5r13g5x88/XvHwxdG4AmI/AAAAAAAAFyQ/nCvGiZs-BVM4NCdg7fgZIqJycY286sMEQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1-2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A child inaugurating the library. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zt5r13g5x88/XvHwxdG4AmI/AAAAAAAAFyQ/nCvGiZs-BVM4NCdg7fgZIqJycY286sMEQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J_0mX_so-VM/XvH2QHWxUhI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/VwbiOsnE_SwZSlMwfnwQDVvUu2G8zVB6QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_093821263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J_0mX_so-VM/XvH2QHWxUhI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/VwbiOsnE_SwZSlMwfnwQDVvUu2G8zVB6QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_093821263.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Inside Garung Thuk.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3_E9H5Af2UE/XvH2TaCsgpI/AAAAAAAAF0U/ihGeUpEwYX4uGCM35e3YGvsQqaWhBdqiACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_094543825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3_E9H5Af2UE/XvH2TaCsgpI/AAAAAAAAF0U/ihGeUpEwYX4uGCM35e3YGvsQqaWhBdqiACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_094543825.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Old photo exhibits of the Sherdukpen tribe are displayed inside. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aBTB-gP9UyE/XvH2TdnPhJI/AAAAAAAAF0Y/ECYd2JC3F0AJ9n0OlkKCUmfJ5y3v_nWRACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_094642314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aBTB-gP9UyE/XvH2TdnPhJI/AAAAAAAAF0Y/ECYd2JC3F0AJ9n0OlkKCUmfJ5y3v_nWRACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_094642314.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Sherdukpens were primarily hunters and gatherers who also
practiced agriculture. Although now, the main source of income is agriculture
and horticulture with hunting being banned by the government. With changes
happening in society in the tribal cultures, and with the passing away of the
elderly who are the repositories of knowledge and ancient wisdom, a group of like-minded
people like Lobsang and Dorjee established a community-run center that would
not only promote culture and tradition but also preserve the bio-diversity of
the region.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cSHv8uYIBM/XvHxDa34nVI/AAAAAAAAFyY/C0pTHzuwdJUvCOJG1Wiies7PkR2tl0WkACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/trained-young-boys-on-folk-dances-which-ensure-survival-of-the-art-atleast-for-50-years.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="640" height="414" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2cSHv8uYIBM/XvHxDa34nVI/AAAAAAAAFyY/C0pTHzuwdJUvCOJG1Wiies7PkR2tl0WkACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/trained-young-boys-on-folk-dances-which-ensure-survival-of-the-art-atleast-for-50-years.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Men dressed up for the Kro Cheykor festival. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In 2015, with one of the leading publishing houses in India,
they did a fund raiser through a crowd sourced campaign which generated Rs
45000 with which they could buy a multitude of books for children of various
genres. Thus Garung Thuk also became a community run library. And what was very
unique was the manner in which they inaugurated the library. Instead of
inviting prominent personalities or politicians as chief guests they asked the
students, the direct beneficiaries, to inaugurate the library. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Apvbz-iTlTc/XvHxLPntYWI/AAAAAAAAFyc/5hJ7liPwFoIvXsNsZfQ0M9X2ZOwW3kyNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/13244264_1088411094565725_256559391385255342_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1076" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Apvbz-iTlTc/XvHxLPntYWI/AAAAAAAAFyc/5hJ7liPwFoIvXsNsZfQ0M9X2ZOwW3kyNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/13244264_1088411094565725_256559391385255342_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Children playing musical instruments at the Kro Chykor festival. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Garung Thuk is at the lead for creating awareness about the
rich biodiversity of Shergaon so that the younger generation are not only aware
about it, but also take pride it in and preserve it. One such initiative was
adopting a stretch of the river called Choskorong Kho for five years starting
December 2014. They did a fish riverine ranching program where they released
500 fish fingerlings with the help of the fishery department. Felling of trees and
fishing is banned along the riverside and in the river thus allowing them to
regenerate with fish and the other fauna around it like birds and butterflies.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XEWhxzau5io/XvHxURS8F_I/AAAAAAAAFyk/fKnrOMpqM-olTkjvuqCOUIjTyL4ORnuugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/2-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="1200" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XEWhxzau5io/XvHxURS8F_I/AAAAAAAAFyk/fKnrOMpqM-olTkjvuqCOUIjTyL4ORnuugCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/2-2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Releasing fish fingerlings and making of bamboo items.Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Other activities pertaining to the environment are:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> Workshops on mushroom cultivation- Shergaon has
a wealth of mushrooms. While ambling around the village with Lobsang, we
spotted a few women collecting the very rare mushroom Marcella (Sherdukpen name
is âMubung Shrukâ) which sells for an exorbitant price of around Rs 2000 per kg
on account of its rarity. But because itâs so scarce people donât sell but
consume it themselves. On a trek to a mud fort another day, we chanced upon the
dork eared fungus. We gathered it, took it home and just nibbled on it after
washing it. Apparently it tastes delicious when cooked with fish. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>Extensive tree plantation drives are conducted as
part of which the community has planted around 2000 trees since its inception.
This includes plantation of fruiting trees such as peach, plum, etc, as well as
oak trees. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2UDPG4L334A/XvHyYmKEp3I/AAAAAAAAFyw/pJOd3SkqtP0PNYSdhE5Uzea1y_r3XfqSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/68941778_2918951251511691_8819530602907697152_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="1384" height="294" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2UDPG4L334A/XvHyYmKEp3I/AAAAAAAAFyw/pJOd3SkqtP0PNYSdhE5Uzea1y_r3XfqSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/68941778_2918951251511691_8819530602907697152_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Tree plantation drive. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>Workshops for teaching how to make bamboo cups
and mugs so that plastic can be eliminated. In fact traditionally before the
infestation of plastic, bamboo was extensively used for crafting cups and mugs and
the community is reverting to its roots. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><i><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2016/01/inside-green-world-in-sullia.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like my blog post on an eco-friendly heritage farm in Karnataka</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></a></i></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tLHysPX-JS0/XvH0QHJ-dTI/AAAAAAAAFy8/OzZuUuGC1gsNmUNfoG5hG7TNzEWWgabZgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/44650957_255635961818216_8253475839102943232_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="876" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tLHysPX-JS0/XvH0QHJ-dTI/AAAAAAAAFy8/OzZuUuGC1gsNmUNfoG5hG7TNzEWWgabZgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/44650957_255635961818216_8253475839102943232_n.jpg" width="584" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shergaon has a rich flora and fauna. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>Garung Thuk also periodically invites experts on
birds and butterflies to organize workshops for the community on identification
and habitat of the same to create awareness and pride in the local fauna and
flora. An extension of this is photography workshops to facilitate documenting
the species of flora and fauna by the community as a whole.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dZxs9MBSFrQ/XvH0bUIm2TI/AAAAAAAAFzE/a6gyLG0aWgIm4pnIKQYW3VDc3jnxK2KqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_180016385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dZxs9MBSFrQ/XvH0bUIm2TI/AAAAAAAAFzE/a6gyLG0aWgIm4pnIKQYW3VDc3jnxK2KqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_180016385.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Sherdukpen bags are to die for. It's highly labour intensive and intricate and takes several weeks to make one bag. </span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKunu_-q76k/XvH0a27p2WI/AAAAAAAAFzA/nQSr7Ch-kSUvvtYvO5MS8B28Yqh5EZZUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_181056610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKunu_-q76k/XvH0a27p2WI/AAAAAAAAFzA/nQSr7Ch-kSUvvtYvO5MS8B28Yqh5EZZUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_181056610.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sherdukpen robe for women. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFpfHX2H4is/XvH0jYnoJYI/AAAAAAAAFzM/WBbEjMKFV-YAxltDIuQc-9s0Is4O5vpIACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Bags.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="344" data-original-width="536" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FFpfHX2H4is/XvH0jYnoJYI/AAAAAAAAFzM/WBbEjMKFV-YAxltDIuQc-9s0Is4O5vpIACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Bags.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Look at the lovely colours of the bags and shawl. Photo taken from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Shertukpen/">https://www.facebook.com/Shertukpen/</a></span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>With the markets getting flooded with cheap
powerloom fabric and readymade garments handloom, as everywhere else in India,
had been getting sidelined even amongst the Sherdukpen. Thus the center is
doing a commendable job of reviving handloom. As part of this initiative expert
weavers are called from other states to give inputs of improvisation of the
loom and the group of weavers brain storm on how traditional wear can be made contemporary
to keep pace with the changing times without losing out on their authenticity.
I saw some excellently handwoven bags, stoles, skirts, etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mz3cHNJ9mK0/XvH07mS1UkI/AAAAAAAAFzY/eNKZhHmQk40-KkxKjmplnaRPrKl9sGx6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_155912396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mz3cHNJ9mK0/XvH07mS1UkI/AAAAAAAAFzY/eNKZhHmQk40-KkxKjmplnaRPrKl9sGx6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_155912396.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I had a lovely time at the homestay. Did some sketching by the river that flows just outside the home stay. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xn8ND5ouMCg/XvH1Kc9qN3I/AAAAAAAAFzg/ItuphWYiu6AQkW9v-0QQuWq4HtMDPYDVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190409_130615999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xn8ND5ouMCg/XvH1Kc9qN3I/AAAAAAAAFzg/ItuphWYiu6AQkW9v-0QQuWq4HtMDPYDVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190409_130615999.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My host Chang Chom Ano cooked some amazing local delicacies for me. Here the family members are making momos while I sketched away. </span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vzL3V7MLlnc/XvH1KKdz_-I/AAAAAAAAFzc/JL_4i9CRE1cgjYhU-AUFogQvZbQYh1HLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190409_141614696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vzL3V7MLlnc/XvH1KKdz_-I/AAAAAAAAFzc/JL_4i9CRE1cgjYhU-AUFogQvZbQYh1HLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190409_141614696.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Momos. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span>A recently started initiative is the community
run homestays where guests can experience traditional Sherdukpen cuisine,
culture and the pristine beauty of the village.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xn5N_g_e_6s/XvH1SfHADoI/AAAAAAAAFzo/1AOHnCB6W9Md0XhiHL8C299GTUOqa5AkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/38033542_2095471450526346_2762382227298844672_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xn5N_g_e_6s/XvH1SfHADoI/AAAAAAAAFzo/1AOHnCB6W9Md0XhiHL8C299GTUOqa5AkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/38033542_2095471450526346_2762382227298844672_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Offering prayers to the Lei. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">A very important aspect of the Sherdukpen tribe is ownership
of the forests as a community. Forests are considered to be sacred by the
Sherdukpen and forest conservation is deeply embedded in their culture. The
community takes turns to use the fallen and decaying oak leaves from different
areas of the sacred grove to use for mulching in agriculture. Since itâs a
sacred grove it follows naturally that felling of trees does not happen. It is
this sense of reverence towards nature and the community based ownership that
ensures that a healthy balance between nature and Man. </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2020/06/the-nature-whisperers-of-sherdukpen.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Read more about the close relationship of the Sherdukpens with Nature in this blog post.</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oPaSVH3LwVI/XvH1cNoEJsI/AAAAAAAAFz0/qZRaCBetNTA0cPXdmhNZHaODcIi0YRf0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_132801548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oPaSVH3LwVI/XvH1cNoEJsI/AAAAAAAAFz0/qZRaCBetNTA0cPXdmhNZHaODcIi0YRf0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_132801548.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Sherdukpen museum. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o6_5abMTRaY/XvH1esxIF2I/AAAAAAAAFz4/qWAia7B1QjoMlPY4XL-3cRZRPzIN6VMdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_100324447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o6_5abMTRaY/XvH1esxIF2I/AAAAAAAAFz4/qWAia7B1QjoMlPY4XL-3cRZRPzIN6VMdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_100324447.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another one. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">To promote and preserve their culture, the members of Garung
Thuk have converted an old traditional wooden house into a museum where
traditional home utensils and agricultural equipment of the yore are displayed.
A slice of life from the past is thus preserved so that the younger generation
can relate to it and visitors be awed by it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Celebrations at the Kro Chykor festival. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Garung Thuk also preserves its culture through an annual
festival called Kro-Cheykor in which the entire clan of the Sherdukpens
regardless of their age participate with full gusto. The festival is a
beautiful example of how Animist and Buddhist traditions co-exist. The rituals
and dance which have been in practice for hundreds of years are kept intact
through this festival. The younger generation even receive training on the
dance moves and songs for a dedicated period of time from the elders in the
months preceding the festival. Traditional food including wild berries, roots
and fruit foraged from the forest are served with copious quantities of the
locally brewed beer. This is the time when each member of the clan, dresses up
in traditional attire, complete with the Sherdukpen hand woven bag and necks
bejeweled with big coral and turquoise beads. The Kro-Cheykor festival was
started by the great monk Doyan Tanzing and commences on the 25<sup>th</sup>
day of the 3<sup>rd</sup> lunar month and the main procession is taken out on
the full moon day of the holy month Saka Dawa, the 4<sup>th</sup> month. During
the 20 day festival, all deities are invoked and their blessings are sought.
They are also given a beautiful farewell through a song called Lurjaang in
which the first few lines are dedicated to the great monk. After the farewell,
the deities retire to their respective resting places thus bringing an end to
the fun and festivities. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bhoti script class in progress. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The center also organizes interesting workshops such as the
one on Bhoti script to reacquaint the younger generation to their roots and
culture. Other commendable initiatives include organizing medical camps, eye
checkup for elders and cataract removal, water tank clean ups and the like. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I had originally written about the Garung Thuk for </span><a href="https://www.thebetterindia.com/195033/arunachal-pradesh-tourism-must-visit-culture-books-bamboo-cups/" style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif;" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">The Better India </span></a><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> in September 2019. Reading my article, the Hyderabad Literature festival 2020 got in touch with them and they were awarded </span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">the </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Innovative Library award in India Reading Olympiad organised by Food4thought foundation on 26th January,2020. I am so happy that I could contribute in some way to them. </span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Garung Thuk is a shining example of how a community </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">together
can live life based on ancient principles and harmony with Nature. Of how in a
world becoming homogenous in some aspects by what we could call a wave of
âmodernizationâ, tradition and culture can still survive and be embraced by the
younger generation. In that way Garung Thuk provides a proverbial bridge
connecting the old with the new, the ancient and the modern. And it does so
remarkably well. The Sherdukpens are an incredibly warm people and excellent
hosts. I was happy I trusted my instinct and travelled to this quaint village,
the happy memories of which will remain with me forever. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-69686494228444263812020-06-23T04:15:00.002-07:002020-06-23T06:03:36.176-07:00The Nature Whisperers of the Sherdukpen Tribe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ceIG0wDdVkA/XsJamsFCMII/AAAAAAAAFm8/APiAkRx1D38gLzDSPB_ckyASlUtVUNC3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_162125185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ceIG0wDdVkA/XsJamsFCMII/AAAAAAAAFm8/APiAkRx1D38gLzDSPB_ckyASlUtVUNC3ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_162125185.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">It was sometime in November 2018 that I stumbled upon an
article on the net which mentioned âEthno forestryâ and a </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2020/06/garung-thunk-revolutionary-ngo-in.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">unique library</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> run by
the Sherdukpen tribe in a remote village in Arunachal Pradesh. These keywords
were enough for me to decide that it will be my coming Spring getaway to the
Himalayas, a ritual I have been following for a few years now. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/the-secret-life-of-shamans-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank">You may also like my blog post on the Shamans of Dzongu.</a></i></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1KfaKkyqiNg/XvHSzMSarBI/AAAAAAAAFw4/BhuKlZnkwhQVTrsM9Re4bvr3kr4nBfiawCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/88051904_3525799654160178_40929217264746496_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1KfaKkyqiNg/XvHSzMSarBI/AAAAAAAAFw4/BhuKlZnkwhQVTrsM9Re4bvr3kr4nBfiawCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/88051904_3525799654160178_40929217264746496_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The members of the Garung Thuk- Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">From the article I had the name of the village, of the person
who is doing research on Ethno-Forestry and the name of the library. With these
keywords, I combed the net for any contact number I could get. After a few days
of search, I found a Facebook group in which a number was mentioned related to
the activities of the library. I called the number and thankfully it happened
to be Lobsang Tashiâs who is the very person whose research I was curious
about. He was curious about where I had got the number from since their contact
details are not posted anywhere explicitly. He directed me to his cousin Dorjee
Thungon, whom I spoke to and he told me that they are in the process of setting
up home stays and that I could stay in his sisterâs house. Since I had no idea
of how the accommodation would be, I requested Dorjee to send me pictures of
his sisterâs house. He innocently asked me what kind of pictures I wanted since
they had not yet got into the âbusinessâ of running home stays. I sent him some
sample pictures of home stays from the net requesting him to send me pictures
of his sisterâs house from those angles. In a few days he sent me the pictures
and I was bowled over by the surrounding beauty of the house.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AjXFQ6XRiok/XvHRz-fbpMI/AAAAAAAAFwY/Hpm7YNHi0VEwffCQ24Kw9rupiAYhCn60wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_155912396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AjXFQ6XRiok/XvHRz-fbpMI/AAAAAAAAFwY/Hpm7YNHi0VEwffCQ24Kw9rupiAYhCn60wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_155912396.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The river gurgling past Dorjee's house. I sketched the scenery.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hHvu8Q-2wgg/XvHR2QRGafI/AAAAAAAAFwc/MBYx7e-_9B4NWLPxbe_PKaXPaNQyUkzugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190409_075822313%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hHvu8Q-2wgg/XvHR2QRGafI/AAAAAAAAFwc/MBYx7e-_9B4NWLPxbe_PKaXPaNQyUkzugCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190409_075822313%257E2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I read a beautiful book about Nature Spirits sitting by the riverside. Can't be a better location than this to read on the subject.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In April 2019 I arrived in Arunachal Pradesh. I first visited
Thembang, and then Dirang and then Shergaon was my last stop on my way back. My
lovely host Karmu Chotten from Thembang dropped me right at the home stay in
Sheragon. Lobsang Tashi welcomed me and took me to Dorjeeâs sister, Chang Chom
Anoâs home. I was introduced to his father, Shri. Lotu Thungon, a remarkable person
about whom I would be writing more.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was so eager to know more about the culture of the
Sherdukpens and how they have been preserving their ancient knowledge and
culture. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3zPlTgYMUk/XvHR_oumT6I/AAAAAAAAFwg/NyhSE-9OzIMhjNp0GSZzEOwIaG2F0lCYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_133757077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3zPlTgYMUk/XvHR_oumT6I/AAAAAAAAFwg/NyhSE-9OzIMhjNp0GSZzEOwIaG2F0lCYQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_133757077.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Everywhere I walked in Shergaon I was met with serene sights like this and few people. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6t2GqvQdbe8/XvHSBnuDClI/AAAAAAAAFwk/2fsLXR6w9xks9lJlyNViESG8DrMcVr5PgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_122736508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6t2GqvQdbe8/XvHSBnuDClI/AAAAAAAAFwk/2fsLXR6w9xks9lJlyNViESG8DrMcVr5PgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_122736508.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The ubiquitous cherry blossoms during Spring time. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Sherdukpens are a small tribe numbering around 4000
people in the three villages of Shergaon, Rupa and Jigaon in the West Kameng
district of Arunachal Pradesh. It is believed that they are descendants of <span style="background: white;">Asu
Gyaptong</span>, who belonged to the bloodline of the 7<sup>th</sup> century
the ruler of Tibet, Gyalpo Song-tsan Gampo, who married an Assamese princess.
The Sherdukpens call themselves as âSheinjiâ and the label of Sherdukpens is
probably given to them by those from outside their community. The village was
also originally called âShenthukâ and later changed to Shergaon. They speak a
dialect which belongs to the Tibeto-Burmese family of languages. They do not have a script but the Budhhist monks use the Tibetan script for religious purposes. The Sherdukpens were earlier hunters
gatherers who also practiced agriculture and traded with neighboring Assam. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fRFlWFq3h3g/XvHdimr-aEI/AAAAAAAAFxI/cWRWMAiKnX8x74FHW7jpgEJxhkx9UfArQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20414057_10159110931640652_9032715623211545963_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1224" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fRFlWFq3h3g/XvHdimr-aEI/AAAAAAAAFxI/cWRWMAiKnX8x74FHW7jpgEJxhkx9UfArQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/20414057_10159110931640652_9032715623211545963_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Located just below Zengbu Gompa. It got its name from there. Zengbu kho Bang. This used to be the water source for monastery before the pipeline water connection came in. The serpents here is of black colour as per eye witness. Caption text and photo by Dorjee K Thungon.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Sherdukpens were originally followers of the Bon
religion which originated in Tibet before the advent of Buddhism. Tombu Sherap
of Tibet was the founder of Bon. Bon religion believes in the presence of a super
sensible world and that every object, animate and âapparently inanimateâ has a
spirit. In other words they are nature worshipers. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kN8Z0OzRj_U/XvHd3SvtDYI/AAAAAAAAFxQ/k23_ndpYCYwizVoL5Un8l1tI4ZnBxO76wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20414317_10159110928010652_3588357366568095065_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="1157" height="412" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kN8Z0OzRj_U/XvHd3SvtDYI/AAAAAAAAFxQ/k23_ndpYCYwizVoL5Un8l1tI4ZnBxO76wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/20414317_10159110928010652_3588357366568095065_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Monks offerings prayers to a Lei (sacred grove). Caption text and photo by Dorjee K Thungon.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qlkhOsvB-2g/XvHegG1RmyI/AAAAAAAAFxY/UmHfWrpsm1EYQd_n8m8IEC7VCwzz_VqjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20423876_10159110935140652_7904927326014293299_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1224" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qlkhOsvB-2g/XvHegG1RmyI/AAAAAAAAFxY/UmHfWrpsm1EYQd_n8m8IEC7VCwzz_VqjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/20423876_10159110935140652_7904927326014293299_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="_xlr" style="background-color: white; padding: 0px 16px; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Female Lei in the middle of the field. Such is the respect ffor the Lei that it is left untouched and offered prayers even though it occupies a substantial space. Photo by Dorjee K Thungon. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;">Although Buddhism was introduced to the Sherdukpens in the
mid- 18</span><sup style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; text-align: left;">th</sup><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;"> century and although all Sherdukpens now identify
themselves as Buddhists, they still retain their Bon practices. So, they have
Buddhist monasteries and Buddhist lamas who perform rituals as well as Shamans
or Chizi or Yumin as they are referred to in Sherdukpen language.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">When I visited Shergaon, I realized how Nature is an
integral part of their lives and how the survival of Bon religion alongside
mainstream religion has helped preserve the rich flora and fauna and forests of
Arunachal Pradesh. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6sQLeTiK-mE/XsJpyvme2CI/AAAAAAAAFnw/0RxnGO6D8LgCrcXLMQhsVaDWd78wjNjuQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190408_130354203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6sQLeTiK-mE/XsJpyvme2CI/AAAAAAAAFnw/0RxnGO6D8LgCrcXLMQhsVaDWd78wjNjuQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190408_130354203.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lei beyond the fields.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Firstly, in Shergaon there is the concept of community owned
forests, a feature very unique to the North East India. I had visited the only
other community owned forest outside the North East in </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Sarmoli, Kumaon</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. Within
these forests are sacred groves called âLeiâ or âLei thungâ. The Lei is usually
associated with a stone, stream or stone. Lobsang showed me a Lei while
exploring the village and surrounding areas. From a distance I paid my respects
to the majestic oak trees in the Lei. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><i><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like to read my blog on community owned forests in Sarmoli, Kumaon</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></a></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-huI2BTO8M6g/XsJqI3OgAVI/AAAAAAAAFoE/9utz9dlpWXYLL3ZXIMdfw2yacKJ9prEaQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_20190408_130406179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-huI2BTO8M6g/XsJqI3OgAVI/AAAAAAAAFoE/9utz9dlpWXYLL3ZXIMdfw2yacKJ9prEaQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_20190408_130406179.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The sacred grove-Lei.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The scared spirit of the forest in the form
of a serpent resides in the Lei. Dorjee mentions that the one in "Zengbu
Kho Bang" upper Gompa in Shergaon is of black colour and smaller in size
as per the eye witness. It is forbidden to cut trees, damage flora and fauna in
these scared groves or show any disrespect and doing so would cause great
calamity on the violator. The person who owns the land adjoining the Lei takes
responsibility to protect and preserve it. He may use the fallen oak leaves
litter from that area for agriculture and itâs proved to be the best for
mulching. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-th04XwKTnq4/XvHH8dr_mTI/AAAAAAAAFu4/vIkZoBHIz_w1bHMjnnFZL5kn3WBLKl52wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_132215533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-th04XwKTnq4/XvHH8dr_mTI/AAAAAAAAFu4/vIkZoBHIz_w1bHMjnnFZL5kn3WBLKl52wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_132215533.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lei in a stone. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9M2rTKOtPxA/XvHfjV2vuUI/AAAAAAAAFxk/SFJwCuFm1h8PLfcfjNUIX0IsQTx-L48gwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20451718_10159110925040652_5926691320472686503_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9M2rTKOtPxA/XvHfjV2vuUI/AAAAAAAAFxk/SFJwCuFm1h8PLfcfjNUIX0IsQTx-L48gwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/20451718_10159110925040652_5926691320472686503_o.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This Lei has an old tree and a stone and is located near the entrance of the old village. Photo by Dorjee K Thungon. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Respecting the Lei ensures a healthy crop and all round prosperity
and this belief is intrinsic in preserving the forests of the area. Dorjee
recalls a popular legend associated with the Lei. âLong time back there was
devastating flood in the village. The rain would not stop for months. There was
great fear of Shergaon being wiped out of human existence. The Leii rose to the
occasion. Leii God in the village offered Mithun to the river coming from South
and a Pig to the one coming from the east, hence the flood was stopped. Even
today when there is prolonged rain, the monks would offer
models("tormu") of Mithun and Pig to the direction as done in the
legend. This prayer is called "kho-batap".â</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cYbFRaezAh0/XvHA7AkmI_I/AAAAAAAAFt0/6zuzRPTre3A9QoW7JQu245dVBlN85apIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/13244264_1088411094565725_256559391385255342_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1076" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cYbFRaezAh0/XvHA7AkmI_I/AAAAAAAAFt0/6zuzRPTre3A9QoW7JQu245dVBlN85apIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/13244264_1088411094565725_256559391385255342_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sherdukpen children playing instruments during Kro-Cheykor festival. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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</div>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A form of tribute is paid to Mother Nature by means of two
festivals- The Kro-Cheykor in the Buddhist tradition and the Khiksaba in the
Bon tradition. Kro-Cheykor is a celebration in which the entire clan of the
Sherdukpens regardless of their age participate with full gusto. The rituals
and dance which have been in practice for hundreds of years are kept intact
through this festival. The younger generation even receive training on the
dance moves and songs for a dedicated period of time from the elders in the
months preceding the festival. Traditional food including wild berries, roots
and fruit foraged from the forest are served with copious quantities of the
locally brewed beer. This is the time when each member of the clan, dresses up
in traditional attire, complete with the Sherdukpen hand woven bag and necks
bejeweled with big coral and turquoise beads.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AQQIprD-59U/XvHAzphc2wI/AAAAAAAAFtw/8rphd0XRaQUDLLB_2viAxwvQnxXr9YAFQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/19092771_1532745276798969_6580314660727245756_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="977" data-original-width="1600" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AQQIprD-59U/XvHAzphc2wI/AAAAAAAAFtw/8rphd0XRaQUDLLB_2viAxwvQnxXr9YAFQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/19092771_1532745276798969_6580314660727245756_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sherdukpen women in their traditional finery heading for the Kro Cheykor festival. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NlKZyoIGvic/XvHBIlLqxXI/AAAAAAAAFuA/6WKnZKtkVA89bqfExuQUrelMGndfUdvtACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/18920858_1530100407063456_1546792716318759009_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NlKZyoIGvic/XvHBIlLqxXI/AAAAAAAAFuA/6WKnZKtkVA89bqfExuQUrelMGndfUdvtACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/18920858_1530100407063456_1546792716318759009_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">A unique culture in Shergaon during the Kro-Cheykor puja is to bless the mothers. All newly married ladies among with the other mothers are ask to sit. Honouring them with local wines and juices or teas, chanting Buddhist mantras by the monks, the women folks are being blessed by the entire community on the said day. Some are blessed for their babies while some are blessed for their daughter in laws. Many mother ask people to pray for her childrenâs to be recruited in some good job while few pray for their families well-being. </span><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Unique part about this ritual is that only women are being honored by Monks and village elders, not Men. A deep respect for women folks. Text and photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0YGDlkV7jiE/XvHBIeQ38HI/AAAAAAAAFt8/xU9-j4WA6BEgwCMRtVl5j6AWt503X1ACwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/18953172_1532745383465625_4149999560570749337_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0YGDlkV7jiE/XvHBIeQ38HI/AAAAAAAAFt8/xU9-j4WA6BEgwCMRtVl5j6AWt503X1ACwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/18953172_1532745383465625_4149999560570749337_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Monks playing musical instruments during Kro Cheykor. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-znhbBTNhcSo/XvHBIGO-KUI/AAAAAAAAFt4/kZevQoT_c10CjYZ3-7A4hvffcwAhKsSCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/18953432_1532745386798958_6004589058746198258_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1177" data-original-width="1600" height="470" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-znhbBTNhcSo/XvHBIGO-KUI/AAAAAAAAFt4/kZevQoT_c10CjYZ3-7A4hvffcwAhKsSCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/18953432_1532745386798958_6004589058746198258_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Performers during the Kro Cheykor. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Kro-Cheykor festival was
started by the great monk Doyan Tanzing and commences on the 25</span><sup style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">th</sup><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">
day of the 3</span><sup style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">rd</sup><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> lunar month and the main procession is taken out on
the full moon day of the holy month Saka Dawa, the 4</span><sup style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">th</sup><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> month. During
the 20 day festival, all Nature spirits including the Lei spirits are invoked
and their blessings are sought. They are also given a beautiful farewell
through a song called Lurjaang in which the first few lines are dedicated to
the great monk. After the farewell, the Nature spirits retire to their
respective resting places thus bringing an end to the fun and festivities.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BHB7NvBLqeA/XvHCyVgd09I/AAAAAAAAFuU/07VR-vgv_RcOA-4rIqRsMM2mqiO08fMQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/902272_245370688945851_1264118492_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BHB7NvBLqeA/XvHCyVgd09I/AAAAAAAAFuU/07VR-vgv_RcOA-4rIqRsMM2mqiO08fMQwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/902272_245370688945851_1264118492_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sherdukpen men dressed up for the Bon festival- Khiksaba in Rupa. Photo taken from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Shertukpen/">https://www.facebook.com/Shertukpen/</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k7TLCORq4_I/XvHC4JBXHzI/AAAAAAAAFuY/F4A4q84c1Gk5ekuIE_W9s9sSZertEVysACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/1397905_245376055611981_27326173_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k7TLCORq4_I/XvHC4JBXHzI/AAAAAAAAFuY/F4A4q84c1Gk5ekuIE_W9s9sSZertEVysACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/1397905_245376055611981_27326173_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Offerings made to the Nature Spirits during Khiksaba. Photo taken from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Shertukpen/">https://www.facebook.com/Shertukpen/</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Khiksaba is a Bon/Animist celebration of Nature Spirits and
also coincides with the harvest celebration. Earlier entire families of
Sherdukpens would migrate to Assam for the three freezing months of December,
January and February when Shergaon used to be covered in snow. So Khiksaba used
to be (and still is) celebrated before the winter migration, which happens on a
full moon day as per the lunar calendar usually in the month of October/
November. The Shamans play a major role in offering prayers and performing
rituals to appease Nature spirits. All the village people come dressed in
colourful traditional attire and there is dance, music and, fun and feasting.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KRifYLg_VLk/XvHDyFbAyaI/AAAAAAAAFug/8txaXieEO9omET9bbaa599bShFMnIEpiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20232881_1584758704930959_9157281635752591797_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="655" data-original-width="980" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KRifYLg_VLk/XvHDyFbAyaI/AAAAAAAAFug/8txaXieEO9omET9bbaa599bShFMnIEpiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/20232881_1584758704930959_9157281635752591797_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shri. Tawla Thungon, Bon priest who is considered to be a last priest left in Shergaon village performing a ritual on his grandson. Photo by Lobsang Tashi Thungon.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Coming to the Bon priests of the Sherdukpens who are
Shamans, there are two kinds primarily. One is the Chizi, who performs
household rituals like house warming, general rituals, prescribing herbal
remedies for ailments, etc, and the other kind is called Yumin, who is of a
superior kind by virtue of his supernatural powers and the ability to
communicate with spirits and the after life. There are no standard scriptures
in the Bon religion and all rituals and chants are received by the Chizi or
Yumin in a dream or trance state. Both receive their abilities and powers from
the Nature Spirit who is called âPhuâ in Sherdukpen language. Lobsang says that
</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">every Bon priest is assisted by invisible super natural powers
locally known as âZaabloâ, Bzampu, Maakpe etc.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">At the beginning of every ritual, the
Shaman invokes the Nature spirits to assist and guide him. Usually the mountain
peaks are guardians and family deities of the tribe people so the mountain
spirits are invoked. He requests them for blessings for a good crop,
prosperity, etc, and they in turn also offer specific advice for problems.. At
the end of a ritual, there is a concluding ceremony to bid farewell of the Nature
spirits.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">The Shamans, in addition to working with
the Nature Spirits or Phu also prepare herbal medicines and treat ailments of
all kinds, physical as well as mental. They can feel the pulse of a person and
tell the ailment troubling them. There have been umpteen instances of the
Shaman sucking out stones and thorns from people who are afflicted by strange
problems and spitting them into the water during rituals which has brought them
relief.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also help people locate
lost belongings through predictions which they call âThaanbuâ.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">The Shaman is bound by a strict code of
conduct to maintain his powers. They cannot consume beef, mutton, chicken,
pork, eggs, onions, garlic, etc. There is only a specific variety of fish they
are allowed to consume. The Shaman either follows his family legacy of
Shamanism or receives inspiration in a dream state to become one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">I, unfortunately, could not meet the
Shaman in Shergaon as he was very old and with failing health. Luckily I had
seen a Shaman ritual in Thembang a few days prior. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TDRWKHtvIGY/XvHElPAwUyI/AAAAAAAAFus/vJCE6zjVexcXq1qLHetvmGtuKdVFLilJACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_083044558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TDRWKHtvIGY/XvHElPAwUyI/AAAAAAAAFus/vJCE6zjVexcXq1qLHetvmGtuKdVFLilJACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_083044558.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lobsang Tashi on the left and Shri. Lotu Thungon, Dorjee's father on the right discussing about plants.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Coming back to Ethno-forestry, which
Lobsang is doing research in, I had a very enriching discussion (he mostly
spoke as I had nothing to contribute) with him and Dorjeeâs father, Shri. Lotu Thungon, who is a
brilliant repository of traditional knowledge of the forest. But let me explain
what Ethno-forestry, used interchangeably with Ethno-Botany is. Ethno-forestry
is the collective knowledge of flora and some fauna) of the forest of the
community through observation and rooted in culture. It is knowledge passed
over from one generation to other over hundreds of years of the community. It
relies on knowledge embedded in stories, myths, recipes, songs, art forms and
rituals of the community. This knowledge conveys the wisdom that human life is
interwoven with that of Nature and teaches man how to respect Nature.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">Lobsang, as part of his research, in an
effort to preserve the ancient knowledge and wisdom of his ancestors, has been
talking to and learning from the elders of the village about the secrets of the
forest. Dorjeeâs father has been a major contributor in this effort. Even as we
sat and sipped tea taking in the morning sunlight to keep us warm, Grandpa
randomly picked and plucked leaves around us and talked about their medicinal
properties. Everything in nature, be it a leaf, flower, twig or bark, has
properties beneficial to mankind, only that some are undiscovered yet. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">I got these Botanical names from Lobsang
and Iâm listing a few of these herbs/leaves about which Grandpa spoke about. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FeOsBAaRBHs/XvHNYbLoI_I/AAAAAAAAFvk/WqcLZDpcHJMc7AmUG92wFhXidPIHFjcIgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_122139214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FeOsBAaRBHs/XvHNYbLoI_I/AAAAAAAAFvk/WqcLZDpcHJMc7AmUG92wFhXidPIHFjcIgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_122139214.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While
ambling around the village with Lobsang, we spotted a few women collecting the
very rare mushroom Marcella (Sherdukpen name is âMubung Shrukâ) which sells for
an exorbitant price of around Rs 2000 per kg on account of its rarity. But
because itâs so scarce people donât sell but consume it themselves.</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vc7IP7hlW5g/XvHNa-DJG-I/AAAAAAAAFvo/S5jVkwRBncI5mHw7n5deeXfkjyKopUChwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190408_133017092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vc7IP7hlW5g/XvHNa-DJG-I/AAAAAAAAFvo/S5jVkwRBncI5mHw7n5deeXfkjyKopUChwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190408_133017092.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The thorny leafed plant is called 'bichchu' (Stinging nettle) and contact with the skin causes severe itching. It's very common on the mountains. And the plant that I am holding is an anti-dote for the itching growing just beside it called dock leaves.</span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uhxz9lyP0ms/XvHNdxiFLnI/AAAAAAAAFvs/7gPPj7JrKD0bwjQYQG60C-ieEPxB04wiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_071312336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uhxz9lyP0ms/XvHNdxiFLnI/AAAAAAAAFvs/7gPPj7JrKD0bwjQYQG60C-ieEPxB04wiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_071312336.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Artemesia plant which is anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VBep3MMNNjw/XvHSj7mguuI/AAAAAAAAFw0/BnJrQL0sSK0BF2G3BEM_WyW0jS4wLRnzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_114754351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VBep3MMNNjw/XvHSj7mguuI/AAAAAAAAFw0/BnJrQL0sSK0BF2G3BEM_WyW0jS4wLRnzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_114754351.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On a trek to a mud fort another day, we chanced
upon the dork eared fungus. We gathered it, took it home and just nibbled on it
after washing it. Apparently it tastes delicious when cooked with fish. </span></span><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 107%;">From the Artemesia-used as an
antibacterial medicine, for ear bleeding, itching, stomach ache, skin disease,
swelling, etc, to the Narang which is a type of grassy leaf is made into a paste
with oil and relieve pain (for men and animals), to Plantoga Erosa which heals
cuts and bruises and when eaten with betel leaves aids in digestion, to a
variety of rhododendron which purifies the air and is used for fumigation, to
Auxilarus corniculata which curdles milk, to </span>Litsea cubeba<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>used to treat sleeping disorders, <span style="line-height: 107%;">each leaf and herb was a hidden and unsung wonder.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Nf75rovr78/XvHO_uSYoWI/AAAAAAAAFwI/NkJUR-XMfL0PZtWYI7dF0kb7Pic82JbGACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_084934732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Nf75rovr78/XvHO_uSYoWI/AAAAAAAAFwI/NkJUR-XMfL0PZtWYI7dF0kb7Pic82JbGACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_084934732.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Timur seeds. I had seen this being used in Sarmoli too and bought a packet with me back home. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lobsang spoke about a spice called
âtimurâ ( Zanthoxylum armatum) which I had eaten in Sarmoli too. It is sharp
and hot much like black pepper. Timur was used in the barter system with Bhutan
in the earlier days in exchange for plates, clothes, etc. It is expensive at Rs
800 per kg.</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It grows alongside the rive
bank and is used for cooking fish too. Itâs seed is oily so itâs difficult to
sprout. So when birds eat the fruit and poop it germinates. Timur oil also
alleviates tooth pain, stomach ailments, cold and fever. There is a belief that
if there is a dispute over the tree, it wonât survive long.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zMA9ILyD-v0/XvHRmEbo_vI/AAAAAAAAFwU/PQJ7rN49VQMyqU3fEOgVhpkBhKzOdIMhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_071737865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zMA9ILyD-v0/XvHRmEbo_vI/AAAAAAAAFwU/PQJ7rN49VQMyqU3fEOgVhpkBhKzOdIMhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_071737865.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shri. Lotu Thungon explaining about the plants.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another tree, Pine, which is abundant in the area also has
many uses. When the bark is removed, there is a milky layer underneath which is
used for deworming. It is only to be eaten fresh and itâs especially juicy
during summer. The Pinus valichena, a variety of pine has oil content. When the
tree is wounded it secretes a sap which is white like sugar. This is used for
cough and cold. Before electricity arrived in the villages and candles were hard
to come by, pine sticks rich in their oil content were used as a source of
light. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WoTBSavoZY/XvHMTDUiATI/AAAAAAAAFvc/znYLFFjX1L8NtX56NfNuxHajm9j20aCaACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_081848444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WoTBSavoZY/XvHMTDUiATI/AAAAAAAAFvc/znYLFFjX1L8NtX56NfNuxHajm9j20aCaACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_081848444.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The pine bark acts as a candle due to its oil content.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aThA74zY7sg/XvHIRYNd0zI/AAAAAAAAFvA/LnTfY-pVeGMZtlOFInLrBwnlPgzIFsXnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_081923345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aThA74zY7sg/XvHIRYNd0zI/AAAAAAAAFvA/LnTfY-pVeGMZtlOFInLrBwnlPgzIFsXnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_081923345.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S2FojNNCPH8/XvHIR-ezH8I/AAAAAAAAFvE/xN_10xgdlwk3tTH0hwuW7gNccwJdJQdPACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_082158150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S2FojNNCPH8/XvHIR-ezH8I/AAAAAAAAFvE/xN_10xgdlwk3tTH0hwuW7gNccwJdJQdPACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_082158150.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If you look closely you will notice creases which are darker due to its oil content.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My host in Thembang Jambey Gyaltso Chetan had mentioned this was the
practice in Thembang too. Another semi-liquid sap which is brownish is colour
was used as glue. And the soot from the pine candles used to be collected and
used as ink. Old pine trees have more oil. Other tree parts used for fumigation
were pine, artemesia, juniper and thuja.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lobsang mentioned a few more uses of the rhododendron tree. Itâs
wood was used for agricultural implements. When a fish bone gets stuck in the
throat, the rhodo flower helps getting it unstuck. When a thorn gets stuck on
your feet or fingers, the crushed flowers helps to take it out easily. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I saw plenty of cannabis growing everywhere in Arunachal
Pradesh. It is used to treat dysentery in cattle. Either the leaves are boiled
in water and then the water is given to the ailing cattle or the leaves are
mixed with flour dough and then fed to the them. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kV9THehOPK8/XvHhlsS7EJI/AAAAAAAAFxw/LwVYk92q0jEZM9U-H_V8sr6n42AzSMVDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190410_194559181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kV9THehOPK8/XvHhlsS7EJI/AAAAAAAAFxw/LwVYk92q0jEZM9U-H_V8sr6n42AzSMVDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190410_194559181.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A sketch of Dorjee's father.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I sat in awe as Dorjeeâs father spoke joyfully and
spontaneously about the characteristics of all the plants around us and also
some not around us. Suddenly, what I had till then perceived as just another
plant acquired a personality of its own and commanded reverence.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I would say Lobsang is doing a commendable job by preserving
the ancient knowledge of the forest and the flora around them by documenting
these from the elders. This is precious treasure which otherwise would be lost
to future generations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The close bond that the Sherdukpens share with Nature is
translated into the various activities they are involved in to conserve the
rich forests. I have mentioned them in detail on my write up on </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2020/06/garung-thunk-revolutionary-ngo-in.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Garung Thuk</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">
which started as a library but has become a hub for preserving and the
continuation of the Sherdukpensâ rich cultural and environmental heritage. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s_BXsSLfpYg/XvHIy6nFY6I/AAAAAAAAFvQ/7GJlAqyStXkB4BE3tNjruyqIUZUhJ-4rwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190411_142539854%257E2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s_BXsSLfpYg/XvHIy6nFY6I/AAAAAAAAFvQ/7GJlAqyStXkB4BE3tNjruyqIUZUhJ-4rwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190411_142539854%257E2.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">That's me enjoying a flower shower on my last day in Shergaon. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">They may be a small community but they are giants in terms
of the pride and love they have for their culture, village and Nature. And I am
glad to have experienced that for myself. On my last day there, I sat beneath the cherry tree with full blossom to wrap myself up with the beauty of the place and a farewell flower shower.</span><br />
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-1345914489671547102019-06-24T06:08:00.001-07:002020-06-23T04:12:24.698-07:00Walking Tour in Amsterdam<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Rafu8y7G7A/XRDGWLylEiI/AAAAAAAAFO0/m4xoDAhVtmkMeWb5FFVnXmVsfjejosALQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_114559927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Rafu8y7G7A/XRDGWLylEiI/AAAAAAAAFO0/m4xoDAhVtmkMeWb5FFVnXmVsfjejosALQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_114559927.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">People happily co-exist with water in Holland.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">As soon as our plan for The Netherlands was finalised and
our tickets booked to Amsterdam, I started searching for walking tours of the
city. The first link that came up in the search was â</span><a href="https://freewalkingtoursamsterdam.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Free Walking Tours Amsterdam</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">â. Impressed by what I saw on their website, we registered for it. We
had landed at around 9 pm in Amsterdam the previous night and the next morning
was the walk. Jet lagged in a new country and trying to figure out the
transport there got us late by around 5 minutes to the starting point. We saw
the group leave and after a jog caught pace with them. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sorry about this first photo in this post! But this was the first stop!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hNL48JMggP4/XRCo0g4bztI/AAAAAAAAFL0/MAplzMBZzEYXkQc6n5p610z4GbIg-inBQCLcBGAs/s1600/amsterdam-1-68-770x515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="770" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hNL48JMggP4/XRCo0g4bztI/AAAAAAAAFL0/MAplzMBZzEYXkQc6n5p610z4GbIg-inBQCLcBGAs/s640/amsterdam-1-68-770x515.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The window at Condomerie. Photo taken from </span><a href="http://www.amsterdam.style/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The first stop was at Condomerie, the worldâs first
condom speciality shop where men can go and get customized fittings of condoms. They
also have varieties of lubricants and other products related to sexual
pleasure. Now, I looked around and saw that none of the other members in the
group were taking any pictures. Having missed the introduction I wasnât sure if
there was a rule of no photography. I walked upto Marius, the tour guide and
told him we had missed the introduction and if we were in the right group. He
told us sternly that we were 10 minutes late (by now) but kindly permitted us
to join the walk.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The next stop was my favourite, Metropolitan-The Pastry Room. We sampled the popular Dutch stroopwaffle and Marius announced that this place had the best hot chocolate. After the tour we came back to have that and trust me having that hot chocolate was like going to heaven and coming back! It was the best I have ever tasted! Thank you Marius.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">You may also like my blog post on the '</span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2015/02/pune-heritage-walk.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Pune Heritage Walk</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">'.</span></i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FT6jL4jI5Zk/XRCpES7ZAII/AAAAAAAAFMA/O1vEcD5UcD8JA1AmrVAREurMYwdZvqvcQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_105849310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FT6jL4jI5Zk/XRCpES7ZAII/AAAAAAAAFMA/O1vEcD5UcD8JA1AmrVAREurMYwdZvqvcQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_105849310.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This cafe is a must visit.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RBp6OYVv1oE/XRCpD6_vM1I/AAAAAAAAFL4/P0ImVgSKYrMJTF__NDVZvLSEs-MgnNWgQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_142204999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RBp6OYVv1oE/XRCpD6_vM1I/AAAAAAAAFL4/P0ImVgSKYrMJTF__NDVZvLSEs-MgnNWgQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_142204999.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The heavenly hot chocolate and the Chocolate Bible. I will follow every word of this book! </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zDEpwpWHb_0/XRCpEeLRVVI/AAAAAAAAFL8/UVmk19i-7dwbFicE1xQfNo30N0EvbfZuACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_142732637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zDEpwpWHb_0/XRCpEeLRVVI/AAAAAAAAFL8/UVmk19i-7dwbFicE1xQfNo30N0EvbfZuACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_142732637.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hq8UqyH05Hw/XRDEv5mZT2I/AAAAAAAAFOo/V4R2oRQgphg1-yXPnDPunl8rCsnpWVB7ACLcBGAs/s1600/Stroopwafels_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hq8UqyH05Hw/XRDEv5mZT2I/AAAAAAAAFOo/V4R2oRQgphg1-yXPnDPunl8rCsnpWVB7ACLcBGAs/s640/Stroopwafels_01.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Dutch speciality- Stroopwaffel. Photo taken from Wikipedia.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We then proceeded to the red light area. Photography is
prohibited in this area. Called the De Wallen (the walled area), this is the
only place in the world probably where religion and prostitution live side by
side. Even while we walked the streets of the De Wallen we heard the tolling of
the 14<sup>th</sup> century Oude Kirk (Old Church) bells. There are around 400
windows in this area from where women stand and cater to customers. One rule is
that women cannot solicit on the streets. So, we saw women in small rooms
behind glass walls ready for their work.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lM8A0iA1zd8/XRCt1U_hhJI/AAAAAAAAFMc/XiYMjGyS9X8IBOA1YpLCE3x76qLLjDaYwCLcBGAs/s1600/amsterdam-red-light-district.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lM8A0iA1zd8/XRCt1U_hhJI/AAAAAAAAFMc/XiYMjGyS9X8IBOA1YpLCE3x76qLLjDaYwCLcBGAs/s640/amsterdam-red-light-district.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The red light area. The rooms with bright pink lights on the ground floor are where women stand for customers.Photo taken from </span><a href="http://www.dutchnews.nl/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">How did this area become a hub for prostitution? One reason
is that women would solicit men in gambling bars and then take them to their
own parlours later. The gambling bars thus started to lose customers. So they
came up with an innovative idea that suited everyone- they set up parlours with
fancy interiors and gradually starting employing prostitutes. Another reason
for the flourishing sex trade in this area is that Amsterdam has been a trading
port for many centuries where there were many sailors, traders and migrant
population. Many centuries ago it was also the time when there was abject
poverty. So men offered their wives for some money and a few herrings (which
happens to be a favourite street food even now). So to cater to the influx of
sailors and traders the red light area came to be established here. One version
says that during the 16<sup>th</sup> century when prostitution was punishable,
the women in the trade would slip notes with their confessions under the church
doors. The priests would then seal the confessions and pardon their âsinsâ in
exchange for acts of indulgence. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j2FcsVr2sBA/XRCfdzcXrsI/AAAAAAAAFLo/qy8opWqs9I0UTdWIvZoSS4xyDe8ZdwdwACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_111555859.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j2FcsVr2sBA/XRCfdzcXrsI/AAAAAAAAFLo/qy8opWqs9I0UTdWIvZoSS4xyDe8ZdwdwACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_111555859.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A street sculpture by an anonymous person. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Itâs well known that The Netherlands is one of the few
countries where prostitution is legal. But Marius informed us that this does
come with its share of problems. Crime has increased behind closed doors and
the women who are in the business are mostly from East Europe and 90% of the
customers are from outside the country. So itâs a law that is mainly profited
by people outside the country. Also the rent for the windows (rooms) has shot
up so women are having to work extra to pay the rent.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">You may also like to read my blog post on '</span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2015/09/a-day-in-mysore.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">A Day in Mysore</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">'.</span></i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"><i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mzGRO7qtd_4/XRCuLI2_v9I/AAAAAAAAFMk/KgcfuRsXE10JZvd919JuwOj85ecahlikwCLcBGAs/s1600/260px-Sex_worker_statue_Oudekerksplein_Amsterdam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="345" data-original-width="260" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mzGRO7qtd_4/XRCuLI2_v9I/AAAAAAAAFMk/KgcfuRsXE10JZvd919JuwOj85ecahlikwCLcBGAs/s640/260px-Sex_worker_statue_Oudekerksplein_Amsterdam.jpg" width="482" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The statue of the 'belle' to honour all sex workers across the world. Photo taken from Wikipedia.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Thereafter, we stopped at a point and Marius explained how in the 1600's the Dutch were possessed by the 'Tulip mania'. Tulips were introduced to Holland in the late 1500's as an imported item from Turkey and were viewed as exotic flowers which only the affluent could afford. In 1634 the urge to possess tulip bulbs was so great that other industries were almost neglected! The prime variety of tulips could cost as much as $150,000 in today's money. There were even professional traders who would trade tulips on people's behalf. People even purchased tulip bulbs on credit and after taking loans thinking they could make huge profits out of it. But by 1637, prices began to fall and never recovered. Holders of tulips were forced to liquidate and declare bankruptcy. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YzD8_sbRnSs/XRDEHoa_BuI/AAAAAAAAFOg/ytANiFMjlS0z9_eAK2cKzu2HwzN3rOODQCLcBGAs/s1600/V%2BC%2BSustainable%2BNC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="600" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YzD8_sbRnSs/XRDEHoa_BuI/AAAAAAAAFOg/ytANiFMjlS0z9_eAK2cKzu2HwzN3rOODQCLcBGAs/s640/V%2BC%2BSustainable%2BNC.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Photo taken from </span><a href="http://www.iamsterdam.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As we walked along the canal to our next stop, Marius
explained that Amsterdam is part of the 1/3 of Holland that lies below sea
level and is slowly sinking. The Netherlands is called so for this very reason-
1/3 of it lies below sea level. Through a sophisticated and complex anti-flood
system of dikes, pumps (windmills earlier) and sand dunes along the coast the
city is kept from flooding. The whole of Amsterdam is built on poles drilled
into the wet soil. And these poles and buildings are around 200-700 years old. He
pointed out to buildings which are tilted or leaning forward. Wood rots over a
period of time and especially so when water levels drop and the wood is exposed
to air. Hence, the buildings lining the canals are mostly crooked. There is an
agency appointed by the government to check water levels regularly and to
maintain records to repair and reinforcements.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jyeD94K0ppg/XRCuf0XV3PI/AAAAAAAAFMs/jolic7sZ0Ok9TZvXfatlW5Ai_WpXHNrGwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_113713387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jyeD94K0ppg/XRCuf0XV3PI/AAAAAAAAFMs/jolic7sZ0Ok9TZvXfatlW5Ai_WpXHNrGwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_113713387.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7XGAuX5eN88/XRDGh1bwoGI/AAAAAAAAFO4/OkfajNoOq9MVWyOYCc4y9xN0Rkkv-1EPQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_131400826_BURST006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7XGAuX5eN88/XRDGh1bwoGI/AAAAAAAAFO4/OkfajNoOq9MVWyOYCc4y9xN0Rkkv-1EPQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_131400826_BURST006.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We then stopped at Den Waag, the oldest standing non-religious structure built in 1488 which now houses a cafĂŠ. But it has witnessed many a historical event. It was constructed as a city gate as an extension to the walls of Amsterdam, but when Amsterdam expanded beyond the walls, the walls were demolished and De Waag became a stand alone structure. It was put to use as a weigh house (where goods were weighed) prior to the 1800âs when there was an absence of standard units of measurement. For some time after that it served as an anatomical theatre where surgeons performed wellâŚsurgeries! The legendary Dutch painter Rembrandt depicted De Waag in his 1632 painting titled, â<span style="text-decoration-line: none;">The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp</span>.â In the early 19<sup>th</sup> century it was the site for punishments and Marius showed us a painting of a guillotine in front of the building. As with the whole of Amsterdam, De Waag is also slowly sinking due to the porous soil and repair and maintenance work is routinely carried out.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ieJvUU97vCU/XRCfK7elElI/AAAAAAAAFLc/fzo2rbuFf_c_GicyVjcbZjanvTUdkGokQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_121102403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ieJvUU97vCU/XRCfK7elElI/AAAAAAAAFLc/fzo2rbuFf_c_GicyVjcbZjanvTUdkGokQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_121102403.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Den Waag</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ng99636NhtI/XRC8FCXZgyI/AAAAAAAAFNE/q3rx2CJT6mgcvb5r6hCO2AlGga2bcZRDACLcBGAs/s1600/guillotine-amsterdam-nieuwmarkt-1812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="700" height="470" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ng99636NhtI/XRC8FCXZgyI/AAAAAAAAFNE/q3rx2CJT6mgcvb5r6hCO2AlGga2bcZRDACLcBGAs/s640/guillotine-amsterdam-nieuwmarkt-1812.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">A painting of Den Waag with the guillotine. Photo taken from </span><a href="https://onsverleden.wordpress.com/2011/06/15/guillotine-in-nederland/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a8qXtHDdivg/XRCfE8zBtMI/AAAAAAAAFLU/1NM_5yyM5NolheHaXUZKQpOucim0Pga6wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_120809161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a8qXtHDdivg/XRCfE8zBtMI/AAAAAAAAFLU/1NM_5yyM5NolheHaXUZKQpOucim0Pga6wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_120809161.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Marius showing a photo of the Rembrandt's painting, '<span style="text-decoration-line: none;">The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp'.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Next stop was the erstwhile headquarters of the Dutch East
India Company or the VOC. The VOC was a formidable megacorporation formed by
competing Dutch trading companies in 1602. Its main purpose was trade,
exploration and colonization of East Asia throughout the 17th and 18th century.
Being surrounded by water it is no surprise that the Dutch were pioneers
in exploration by sea and subsequently cartography. The Dutch discovered
Australia in 1606 and had named it Nova Holland. And also New Zealand which
they named after Zeeland, a village in Holland. Similar is the case with New
York which was called New Amsterdam originally and Brooklyn gets in name from
Breuckelen, a village in Holland. We visited the National Maritime Museum later
where we saw maps dating back to the early and mid-16<sup>th</sup> century
where only the west and north of Australia and shown on the map because the
rest of it had not been explored! The VOC was a multi-national company and
global employer, probably the first of its kind and in its prime it built and
owned 1500 ships and employed 25,000 people out of which 3000 were in Holland. It
was a forerunner of all modern corporations and even the British East India
Company is believed to have been built on this model. But due to socio-economic
changes in Europe and lack of proper financial management the company shut down
in 1800. It was acquired by the University of Amsterdam in 1965 and now houses
the Department of Sociology.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HYNRpJuv4XI/XRC9gqY_FmI/AAAAAAAAFNQ/D0V5BGEnPjM9VjzKrIV0Jjf1vaq2WK2AgCLcBGAs/s1600/Oih1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="740" height="406" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HYNRpJuv4XI/XRC9gqY_FmI/AAAAAAAAFNQ/D0V5BGEnPjM9VjzKrIV0Jjf1vaq2WK2AgCLcBGAs/s640/Oih1.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The VOC building from the inside. Photo taken from Wikipedia.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZK1ZprZEPjo/XRDARkl_ymI/AAAAAAAAFOU/qDdyKFrPEio9zOQNF3vU2Xtjia141HmogCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_121628459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZK1ZprZEPjo/XRDARkl_ymI/AAAAAAAAFOU/qDdyKFrPEio9zOQNF3vU2Xtjia141HmogCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_121628459.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A coin issued by VOC in 1789.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Next to the VOC is the smallest house in Europe with an area
thatâs 2 meters wide and 5 meters deep built in 1738.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Marius informed that there used to be a tax
imposed on the width of the house so to escape that the owners kept it at a
bare minimum of 2 meters. Itâs now the smallest tea house in Europe with just
one single table. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a4rq62WwHkI/XRC9rIIuInI/AAAAAAAAFNU/yXmfy2XLNg4b3gJ8zmGtFnPSrMOzttYAwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_122238416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a4rq62WwHkI/XRC9rIIuInI/AAAAAAAAFNU/yXmfy2XLNg4b3gJ8zmGtFnPSrMOzttYAwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_122238416.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The smallest Tea house.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">During the walk, we noticed in many places three Xâs marked.
Marius explained that it represents the 3 dangers that afflicted Old Amsterdam-
fire, floods and the Black plague. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
saw these marks everywhere-on buildings, on benches in the promenade, on flags,
etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rg3LFzc8d-A/XRC9431AfGI/AAAAAAAAFNc/tmCCOZYX550NQrbwM6xTfy8KNnfw6WytACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_121718538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rg3LFzc8d-A/XRC9431AfGI/AAAAAAAAFNc/tmCCOZYX550NQrbwM6xTfy8KNnfw6WytACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_121718538.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">3 X's</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TkFAt5nre4w/XRC95MB4CYI/AAAAAAAAFNg/H90EMIDm2zo62r_tZnvgW7disAKVr1MnwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_123317422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TkFAt5nre4w/XRC95MB4CYI/AAAAAAAAFNg/H90EMIDm2zo62r_tZnvgW7disAKVr1MnwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_123317422.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another one.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The next was not exactly a stop in the walk but more of a
cultural perspective. Dutch people have funny names. You will understand why
when the surnames are translated into English. As a disclaimer Marius stated
that we not get offended by his language and that he is merely explaining what
the surnames mean! Here I have listed the less offensive names. It all started
when Napoleon Bonaparte had occupied Holland in 1811 and for the purpose of
census made it mandatory that everyone pick a surname/family name which was not
a common practice for the Dutch. They thought
it would be a temporary measure and picked offensive and comical surnames as a
way of rebelling against their French occupiers. So you have surnames such as
these:</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Naaktgeboren (Born naked)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Poepjes (Little shit)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Kaasenbrood (cheese and bread)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Rotmensen (Rotten people)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Suikerbuik (Sugarbelly)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Spring in 't Veld (Jump in the Field)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Schooier (Beggar)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Scheefnek (Crooked-neck)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]-->Uiekruier (Onion-crier)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">¡<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Niemand (Nobody)</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We then stopped at the oldest bank of Holland.
In the 15<sup>th</sup> and 16<sup>th</sup> century there was a constant tussle
between the Catholics and Protestants with the latter overthrowing the former
in 1580. The Protestants closed all the Catholics monasteries and convents and
the Magdalena Convent (formerly a Catholic convent) became a house for the
poor. In 1614, a municipal pawn broker, Stadsbank van Lening purchased the
former convent and converted it into a bank where the poor could get credit at
fair rates instead of taking loans from private lenders at exorbitant rates. An
architect was hired in 1616 to give the convent a makeover and he was the one
who designed a relief over the door depicting 3 women pledging their
possessions. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">Have you read about the </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2016/03/visit-to-115-years-old-kulfi-shop-in.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">116 year old Kulfi shop</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> in Delhi?</span></i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QAsaPL8qtW4/XRC-KRCtxyI/AAAAAAAAFNw/NCowFL6dwJYZtIDye9MVn7HhAfsYqs-UwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_122836864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QAsaPL8qtW4/XRC-KRCtxyI/AAAAAAAAFNw/NCowFL6dwJYZtIDye9MVn7HhAfsYqs-UwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_122836864.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The oldest bank in Holland. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t7qW4OkCJpA/XRDAFy7DBMI/AAAAAAAAFOQ/0u6ehUzgZDkjwtOrPqT_EQ4I-0hXU2CYwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_122803855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t7qW4OkCJpA/XRDAFy7DBMI/AAAAAAAAFOQ/0u6ehUzgZDkjwtOrPqT_EQ4I-0hXU2CYwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_122803855.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Earlier, laws pertaining to the
construction of buildings were very strict and even windows were taxed. So we
saw a few buildings with the window frame but no windows. Opposite this is
another wall where artefacts and objects salvaged and retrieved from the devastating
1953 floods are displayed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A window frame with no window. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QkTW33q24MA/XRC-VzXT43I/AAAAAAAAFN0/DKf2hFRXdhsdtHTIPsaco5rLbMXgD5m7gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_123406894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QkTW33q24MA/XRC-VzXT43I/AAAAAAAAFN0/DKf2hFRXdhsdtHTIPsaco5rLbMXgD5m7gCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20190530_123406894.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Artefacts salvaged after the 1953 flood and displayed here. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">We concluded the tour at this point. As
the name of this tour suggests (</span><a href="https://freewalkingtoursamsterdam.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Free Walking Tours Amsterdam</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">), there is no
upfront payment for this and itâs purely on a tip basis. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bfC2hEhpyCE/XRC-sw5PhfI/AAAAAAAAFOE/s6BTTsVUroEX_20p7ObyVEvO-mQYpQkGACLcBGAs/s1600/Amsterdam%2Bwalking%2Btour%2Bmap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="905" data-original-width="1323" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bfC2hEhpyCE/XRC-sw5PhfI/AAAAAAAAFOE/s6BTTsVUroEX_20p7ObyVEvO-mQYpQkGACLcBGAs/s640/Amsterdam%2Bwalking%2Btour%2Bmap.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The walking tour map plotted by us. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">We checked with our
</span><a href="https://www.airbnb.co.in/rooms/496051?" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Airbnb</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> host about how much an appropriate tip amount would be and payed that. I
would highly recommend this tour as it gives a wonderful insight into the
history, culture and quirks of Amsterdam in just 2 hours! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com4Amsterdam, Netherlands52.3679843 4.903561399999944152.2128123 4.5808378999999437 52.523156300000004 5.2262848999999445tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-10820759802381389552019-02-07T01:27:00.000-08:002019-02-07T01:29:22.484-08:00Cuisine of the Lepchas in Dzongu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A Lepcha meal- okra stir fry, greens peas cooked with their pods, onion leaves cooked with their flowers and fermented spinach soup called gundruk. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">While in Lingthem village in Dzongu where I </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/the-secret-life-of-shamans-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">travelled to meet the Shamans</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, I had the opportunity
to sample a variety of dishes unique to Lepcha culture. Lepcha food is characterised by the use of fermented items
like vegetables, fruit and cheese. Lepchas are mainly meat eaters but since I
am a vegetarian I could sample only a limited number of Lepcha dishes. Itâs
simple and full of flavor and devoid of spices that mainland India uses.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fermented soft cheese called churpi.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lepchas were formerly hunters and gatherers, sustaining
mainly on forest produce and cultivating just a few vegetables. They followed a
âSlash and burnâ method of agriculture which means that whenever a tribe moved
from one place to another in the forest, they would burn down a patch that they
needed for agriculture and settle there and practice farming for a period of
about three years. Then they would move again, thus allowing that part of the
forest to rejuvenate. It was only in the 1900âs that they started owning land
and practising long term agriculture. And it was not until a few decades ago
that the Lepchas who were isolated started trading with people from outside. I
asked my host if they never traded with people outside, how did they get salt
for cooking? He said that the hunters-gatherers would follow the musk deer
which would go and lick salt deposits beneath rocks in certain spots and get
their salt from the same place. This is âliving with Natureâ in the truest
sense!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/the-secret-life-of-shamans-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like my post on 'Secret Life of the Shamans in Dzongu'</span></a>.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XvzDCs_zwlg/XFvd0FGOfpI/AAAAAAAAE5o/Fsd77PVyp1Y4QnAK2feOs6fMSLN8XeHpgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XvzDCs_zwlg/XFvd0FGOfpI/AAAAAAAAE5o/Fsd77PVyp1Y4QnAK2feOs6fMSLN8XeHpgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08678.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Freshly harvested potatoes.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJiKdmVGGOQ/XFvd2fvra1I/AAAAAAAAE5s/wk86eUEq5YAS9fexgPOHi8ymgcEujDIKwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJiKdmVGGOQ/XFvd2fvra1I/AAAAAAAAE5s/wk86eUEq5YAS9fexgPOHi8ymgcEujDIKwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08696.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fresh green peas. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hx8K13dUgvw/XFvd4vrOqhI/AAAAAAAAE5w/FFS_s6muaEwtGr5nJ5ljGwAcdmdwpYuGgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hx8K13dUgvw/XFvd4vrOqhI/AAAAAAAAE5w/FFS_s6muaEwtGr5nJ5ljGwAcdmdwpYuGgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08699.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Onion flowers which is a delicacy.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e9EvPmPBHrI/XFvd6oN69KI/AAAAAAAAE50/mt5lVBju6b432tYnDJbziLKaAHpL3mGigCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e9EvPmPBHrI/XFvd6oN69KI/AAAAAAAAE50/mt5lVBju6b432tYnDJbziLKaAHpL3mGigCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08700.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fresh ginger.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">At my Lingthem homestay, food was fresh from the farm to the
table. The host grew several vegetables such as spinach, potatoes, cabbage,
nettle fern, etc. Most days I accompanied her to the farm and we sowed ginger,
made the bed for potatoes, harvested potatoes, plucked nettle fern, and cleared
the weed around cardamom plants. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Cardamom cultivation was introduced in Dzongu in the early 1930's and towards the end of the century, Sikkim turned out to be a major exporter of cardamom. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2015/09/a-taste-of-paharihimachali-cuisine.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You may like my blog post on Himachali/Pahadi cuisine</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">.</span></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OAMwcS93oaQ/XFviN-cw1QI/AAAAAAAAE8c/3zhxHfNOcp4eOtDwj6WiVUJmAYkenk4JwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OAMwcS93oaQ/XFviN-cw1QI/AAAAAAAAE8c/3zhxHfNOcp4eOtDwj6WiVUJmAYkenk4JwCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08824.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">That's me clearing weeds around the cardamom plant. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YI-a_7-Uvns/XFviQX6CmjI/AAAAAAAAE8o/JLH24nnYRmAzCnifqhhMNP1ZAWb2VjudACEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YI-a_7-Uvns/XFviQX6CmjI/AAAAAAAAE8o/JLH24nnYRmAzCnifqhhMNP1ZAWb2VjudACEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08826.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fresh cardamom buds which will mature into pods.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In the traditional Lepcha kitchen, the stove is a stone tripod and wood is used as fuel. In the three homes I visited I saw corn cobs hanging over the hearth and meat tied in cloth, hung to be dried. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CDEixWUnpg8/XFviKZBAcDI/AAAAAAAAE8Y/b1v6XfJ2izQX4Gg9lEXGpiFpOwpCP0-sgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CDEixWUnpg8/XFviKZBAcDI/AAAAAAAAE8Y/b1v6XfJ2izQX4Gg9lEXGpiFpOwpCP0-sgCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08790.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Traditional Lepcha kitchen.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gipeJ9Xn8s/XFviEqmcZeI/AAAAAAAAE8E/rI34iYpLFucrxKv8wk8bAfnrqMLXyZOHQCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gipeJ9Xn8s/XFviEqmcZeI/AAAAAAAAE8E/rI34iYpLFucrxKv8wk8bAfnrqMLXyZOHQCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08787.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Corn cobs hanging above the hearth.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">These are some of the dishes I ate.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The evening I arrived I was treated to âmasyum ko dalâ
(ricebean dal), nettle fern with churpi, and potato stir fry. All the dishes
were full of flavor and light on the stomach. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c79_H-itmJk/XFveCl2joxI/AAAAAAAAE54/y9XafbJC1E0nQDmq0yKc6banlfkqkV8bQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c79_H-itmJk/XFveCl2joxI/AAAAAAAAE54/y9XafbJC1E0nQDmq0yKc6banlfkqkV8bQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08660.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">âMasyum ko dalâ (ricebean dal), nettle fern with churpi, and potato stir fry.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My first breakfast was buckwheat pancakes called âKhuriâ
which are stuffed with either meat of vegetables. Mine was stuffed with
potatoes and cabbage served with soft âchurpiâ (yak cheese) mixed with âlopsiâ (hog
plum) pickle made with âdalleâ (one of the hottest chillies).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-htoNkrsGeg4/XFveJftWbWI/AAAAAAAAE6E/oXVmBsNBFGwuVAL62vTkPnFAPoNk0N7WQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-htoNkrsGeg4/XFveJftWbWI/AAAAAAAAE6E/oXVmBsNBFGwuVAL62vTkPnFAPoNk0N7WQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08664.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Buckwheat pancakes called âKhuriâ stuffed with potatoes and cabbage served with soft âchurpiâ mixed with âlopsiâ pickle.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-itzEi28veoQ/XFveQ2lVIBI/AAAAAAAAE6M/V_ZGzEZ_lTgT0dWrE0zKE2nHCC3WltZPgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-itzEi28veoQ/XFveQ2lVIBI/AAAAAAAAE6M/V_ZGzEZ_lTgT0dWrE0zKE2nHCC3WltZPgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08726.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lopsi or hog plum pickle.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-llnxFYMmesE/XFveksuyM_I/AAAAAAAAE6c/91d7nGBr5Vg0_mCLWrcspQjjce3YzIJiQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-llnxFYMmesE/XFveksuyM_I/AAAAAAAAE6c/91d7nGBr5Vg0_mCLWrcspQjjce3YzIJiQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08727.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Pickled chillies called dalle.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The next meal for lunch was stir fried green peas along with
their pods, onion stir fried with the leaves and flowers, okra subji, fermented spinach
soup called âgundrukâ and hot rice. </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CZutBI4-nVo/XFvevBTYUiI/AAAAAAAAE6g/AtKCRngiZNo4HLlQf7pj3um7ZF_2ZTp-ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CZutBI4-nVo/XFvevBTYUiI/AAAAAAAAE6g/AtKCRngiZNo4HLlQf7pj3um7ZF_2ZTp-ACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08706.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Stir fried green peas along with their skin, onion stir fried with the leaves and flowers, okra subji, fermented spinach soup called âgundrukâ and hot rice.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/kumaoni-cuisine-gastronomical-delight.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may also like my blog post of Kumaoni cuisine</span><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></a></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4R8cgOt0Fz4/XFvdDWWUD6I/AAAAAAAAE5c/LwKuC0a8H3gnbXy8K0Nomhkgxy6jlU3AgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4R8cgOt0Fz4/XFvdDWWUD6I/AAAAAAAAE5c/LwKuC0a8H3gnbXy8K0Nomhkgxy6jlU3AgCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08728.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fermented and dried spinach called 'gundruk'.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">An item in the next meal was really unique. Nettle fern
cooked with âchurpiâ, cauliflower subji, âlopsiâ pickle and masoor dal with rice.
The nettle fern and churpi combination was a winner.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEMNSEQZm20/XFve6m6pcWI/AAAAAAAAE6o/KyyW2d5uMkIzr-xFxWvTQMv8WFSL1zuMwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEMNSEQZm20/XFve6m6pcWI/AAAAAAAAE6o/KyyW2d5uMkIzr-xFxWvTQMv8WFSL1zuMwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08703.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Nettle fern.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IUl9aX99phg/XFve8EFPCtI/AAAAAAAAE6s/KyJkdTanUJMeja8LHYo2aJPBwp-4yd0rACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IUl9aX99phg/XFve8EFPCtI/AAAAAAAAE6s/KyJkdTanUJMeja8LHYo2aJPBwp-4yd0rACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08731.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Nettle fern cooked with âchurpiâ, cauliflower subji, âlopsiâ pickle and masoor dal with rice.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Now, who hasnât heard of thukpa. This one that I ate and slurped
away was a medley of noodles, vegetables and onions garnished with coriander
leaves. Simple, so flavorful and filling.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Thukpa.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another Thukpa I had on this trip was in Gangtok in a restaurant called Nimtho on the MG road. The portion size was quite huge and I struggled to finish it. I quite loved the different flavours. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Thukpa at Nimtho</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One of the meals was fusion food- potato pancakes taught to
the host by a German guest and nettle fern and stinging nettle soup with buckwheat dumplings.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Potato pancakes and nettle fern and stinging nettle soup with buckwheat dumplings.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Stinging nettle called bichhoo in Hindi. Contact of the skin with the leaves causes irritation so we plucked these with tongs. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another fermented dish was âkinemaâ which is fermented
soyabeans. My host asked me to smell it first since itâs an acquired taste and
smell, she warned. It was strong and pungent but I said I would like to taste. I
actually loved it despite the strong aroma. This I had with spinach saag, dal
and rice.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kinema, spinach saag and daal. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One cannot return from Sikkim without having tasted the
ubiquitous momo. My host taught me how to shape the momos into different
patterns. Each pattern is for a different stuffing in the momo. For example, a
circular shape would mean itâs filled with meat, an elongated shape is filled
with fish, so on and so forth. It was pretty interesting to shape the dough
into various shapes and I learnt well, my host said. We had it with tomato dip made with a little bit of lopsi pickle.</span></div>
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<a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/wild-vegetables-festival-at-bhomale.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You may like my blog post on the Wild Vegetables festival. </span></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Momos ready to be steamed. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Momos ready to be devoured. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One day I went for a long walk with he host, Premit Lepcha, and we found a tree laden with these fruit. She asked a man working nearby to pluck the fruit for us and he brought a long stick to shake the fruit off the trees. He also got some salt from a neighbouring home. The fruit was sour-sweet but it was delightful eating it fresh. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUCOf9_1HJQ/XFviYFRAvaI/AAAAAAAAE8k/zBRC9wEa4wAv6QEvcF7scImbr0nnGIjUACEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZUCOf9_1HJQ/XFviYFRAvaI/AAAAAAAAE8k/zBRC9wEa4wAv6QEvcF7scImbr0nnGIjUACEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08938.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Premit was a genius in the kitchen and thanks to her enthusiasm I could sample such a variety. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lepcha homestay from the farm. </span></td></tr>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-82130042739173480752018-12-18T02:43:00.001-08:002018-12-25T23:24:09.110-08:00The Secret Life of the Shamans in Dzongu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My homestay in Lingthem, Dzongu</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I arrived one late evening in Dzongu at my homestay. I had
travelled from Gangtok where it was cold and I had assumed it would be much
colder in Dzongu, so I had worn thermals. But to my surprise, as soon as I
landed at my home stay I had to go excuse myself and take off the thermals.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">"Itâs pretty warm here. Doesnât it get cold?â I asked my
host. âWell, it does get cold when it rains. Now that there is a wedding in the
village, the Shaman has requested the Rain spirits to hold on until after the
weddingâ, she replied casually. And this answer did not raise my eyebrows
either. I was here to meet the Shamans, the bearers of the Nature worship
rituals of the Lepchas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It may have been around three years ago that I had read
somewhere that the Lepchas, the indigenous tribe of Sikkim, still worship
Nature and have maintained their Nature worship rituals, and that is what
sparked a thirst and eagerness to meet them and know about these rituals. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shamans are the spiritual leaders in Animist communities. And
before the existence of organized religions, I guess we were all animists. Shamans
have the ability to enter altered states of consciousness and communicate with
everything around-trees, animals, and spirits of both humans and non-humans. It
was in the 1970âs that Buddhism spread to Dzongu, the reservation for the
Lepchas, a closed community which had fended off external influences until a
few decades ago, and though most of the Lepchas in Dzongu are Buddhists (of the
Ningmappa set of Buddhism), they still maintain their animist traditions. So,
even though there are Shamans in Dzongu who are Buddhists, they practice their
Nature worship rituals. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I thought this was remarkable as well as important
considering how unique traditions have been obliterated in the wake of
organized religion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lepchas have a total of 108 clans and each clan has a
Shaman. So, if there is a birth, death, wedding, house warming ceremony, or the
family âpujaâ, the Shaman of oneâs clan is called to perform the rituals. But
since the young generation has adopted a more general way of life and many
people have moved out of Dzongu, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the
Shamans of other clans are called, too, these days for rituals. The dominant clan
in Lingthem village, where my home-stay was, is Chortholing Puso. However, my
host belongs to the clan called Ateam Pocho on his fatherâs side, but lives in
his Motherâs village-Lingthem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kb4XSqWqzJY/XBjJQmhGPOI/AAAAAAAAEzE/ugQ-PX1lVMUkrw2KpUt3zhbWrDvWH13dQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Kb4XSqWqzJY/XBjJQmhGPOI/AAAAAAAAEzE/ugQ-PX1lVMUkrw2KpUt3zhbWrDvWH13dQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08895.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kachyo Lepcha, my host, who teaches Lepcha culture at Sikkim University</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Shaman is called âBomthingâ in the Lepcha language.
Currently there are two Bomthings in Dzongu. One is elderly around 80 yrs of
age and the other in his 50âs. When I had contacted my host, Kachyo Lepcha, I
had told him that I would like to meet the Shamans and he said that he will
arrange for it. But when I landed in Lingthem at his home-stay, I got to know
from his wife Premit that Kachyo lives in Gangtok, where he teaches Lepcha
culture at the Sikkim Univesity and visits Lingthem only on weekends. So I had
to wait till the weekend to meet Kachyo who would then take me to meet the
Shamans. That Kachyo was teaching Lepcha culture was like a cherry on the cake
for me, because I was eager to know more about this Nature-worshipping
community.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I48oXgZjgRk/XBjJzvsu1HI/AAAAAAAAEzM/RNDnD3ALfv00HlSI7qb-8Eg-tCKq47UHACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I48oXgZjgRk/XBjJzvsu1HI/AAAAAAAAEzM/RNDnD3ALfv00HlSI7qb-8Eg-tCKq47UHACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08784.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On the way to Shaman Netuk's house</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On a Sunday, we walked a considerable distance through the
stunningly beautiful forest to meet the elderly Shaman, named Netuk, at his
house. His son informed that he had gone to the farm. So after drinking some
tea which Netukâs daughter-in-law offered, we walked towards the farm where we
hoped to find Netuk. We reached the farm and Kachyo scanned the crops to spot
Netuk sitting amidst the green peas crop. We walked towards him and I said
âKhamriâ, the equivalent of âHelloâ in Lepcha language. Kachyo explained that I
was here to meet him and know more about the Shamans. Now, Netuk is currently
80 yrs and above and his hearing faculties were failing. Although Kachyo
explained loudly into his ears the purpose of our visit, he did not hear us
correctly and responded with something else. We realized it would be difficult
having a conversation this way. I said âAgoneeâ and âTokchiâ meaning âNice to
meet you' and âthank youâ and we took leave of him.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">You may like my blog post of the </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/wild-vegetables-festival-at-bhomale.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Wild vegetables festival</span></a></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0yRgyf8SoTM/XBjJ7UBq94I/AAAAAAAAEzQ/Vtc_rcpbRDAtpF4bSjn2Fs0_79E2GfwhwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0yRgyf8SoTM/XBjJ7UBq94I/AAAAAAAAEzQ/Vtc_rcpbRDAtpF4bSjn2Fs0_79E2GfwhwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08799.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shaman Netuk</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The next day we planned to meet the younger Shaman in his
50âs called Tithi Gyatso Lepcha. It started raining in the morning and it was
finally in the early afternoon that it stopped, so we could finally leave. It was
4 pm when we left and Kachyo said it would be a 45 minutesâ walk through the
forest to the Shamanâs house. We started walking and were soon in the dense
forest. Giant trees, enormous ferns and colossal bamboo groves greeted us. We
crossed streams, walked over slippery stones and some slush. Part of me was
freaking out. The sun sets early in the east, especially so in the mountains,
which means we would have to walk back in the dark over slippery stones and
slush, not to mention narrow paths overlooking steep declines. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0tFfQjqt8mQ/XBjKPSc_SVI/AAAAAAAAEzc/ALKrvZnzyBcdACOntK24ICTpc9Ir_YNPACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08871.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0tFfQjqt8mQ/XBjKPSc_SVI/AAAAAAAAEzc/ALKrvZnzyBcdACOntK24ICTpc9Ir_YNPACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08871.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The dense forest on the way to Shaman Tithi Gyatso's house</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_NFwc0_VwAc/XBjKPAVHhjI/AAAAAAAAEzY/gTWnazhsriE71KFFPb8Ti5ieSRDzv22_wCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_NFwc0_VwAc/XBjKPAVHhjI/AAAAAAAAEzY/gTWnazhsriE71KFFPb8Ti5ieSRDzv22_wCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08872.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kachyo is as sure-footed as a mountain goat in his flip-flop!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WL5hu_9ao44/XBjKP54LUmI/AAAAAAAAEzg/wN-_HoWWIxsRJJ59_zcJeBCDKnLW7L1vgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WL5hu_9ao44/XBjKP54LUmI/AAAAAAAAEzg/wN-_HoWWIxsRJJ59_zcJeBCDKnLW7L1vgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08873.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Beautiful colours of the forest</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I noticed that
Kachyo was wearing an ordinary flip-flop and didnât even bother looking down
and walking even on narrow paths. He was as sure-footed as the mountain goats,
as is the case with all mountain people. I, a city woman, in trekking shoes and
trekking pole had to watch each and every step. I wished I had more time to
slowly walk through the forest and savor the beauty, but we had to meet the
Shaman and return before it was too dark.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QlJUX9t8uWM/XBjKXdzuYOI/AAAAAAAAEzk/n63g37hCqnkjHRsh2YlUDHTvO-E0ktPRQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QlJUX9t8uWM/XBjKXdzuYOI/AAAAAAAAEzk/n63g37hCqnkjHRsh2YlUDHTvO-E0ktPRQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08875.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Shaman Tithi Gyatso</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I silently requested the forest fairies to ensure that it
didnât rain and that we cross the difficult patch through the forest on the way
back, before dusk. I couldnât help noticing that both the Shamans had their
homes, befittingly, in the middle of the forest, and the way to each was
delightfully green, pristine and overwhelmingly beautiful. In fact, these were
paths walked on only by Shamanâs family members or other villagers when they
were visiting the Shaman.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wl8hCK632B0/XBjKhsNM5xI/AAAAAAAAEzw/g_bSIzxKWEIg5nUH_pCJfJODJBFvD7XYgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wl8hCK632B0/XBjKhsNM5xI/AAAAAAAAEzw/g_bSIzxKWEIg5nUH_pCJfJODJBFvD7XYgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08878.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">View from Shaman Tithi Gyatso's house</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Tithi Gyatso welcomed us at the entrance of his home. He
could understand Hindi but couldnât speak the language so it befell on Kachyo
to become the translator. I asked him a few questions about his life and this
is the gist of it. Tithi Gyatso began having strange dreams at the age of 18,
with voices commanding him to go into the forest and look for answers in life.
There was an inner calling about his inner power which required to be tapped
into. He consulted the then Shaman who confirmed Tithiâs calling to be a
Shaman. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In Lepcha culture, there are no scriptures as such. For rituals, Shamans
use their own words and compose their own prayers. But one could take the
guidance of an older Shaman if the need arises. Shamans are allowed to marry
and have a family. Among Shamans there are those who conduct regular rituals
like house-warming, blessing a new born, etc which does not require interacting
with supernatural powders or entities.
And there are Shamans who perform death rituals, and rituals involving
the cleansing of a personâs aura from other entities, etc, which requires the
Shaman to get into an altered state of consciousness. Tithi Gyatso performs all
kinds of rituals including the death ritual in which the Shaman guides the
spirit to the base of the Kachenjunga.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uDlJkwSoF8E/XBjLY7j1yPI/AAAAAAAAE04/orWDodyGulQ5s4je7E_GHgDun-HJbtWqACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uDlJkwSoF8E/XBjLY7j1yPI/AAAAAAAAE04/orWDodyGulQ5s4je7E_GHgDun-HJbtWqACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08912.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Kachenjunga peak.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lepcha culture is full of stories that shows how their
lives are intricately intertwined with Nature. Firstly, they believe that they
were moulded out of the snow of the Kanchenjunga Mountain. In fact, the original
name of Sikkim is âMayal Lyangâ which means secret paradise. That paradise, the
Lepchas believe still exists at the base of the Kachenjunga. For that reason,
the Kanchenjunga is very sacred to the Lepchas and a cloudless and clear
sighting of the mountain peak in the morning is considered auspicious. I saw
many Lepchas stopping on their paths and bowing to the peak on a clear day. Even
today, when a person dies, the Shaman guides the souls to the âMayal Lyangâ. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bSwx9qvlom8/XBjKn_ilx4I/AAAAAAAAEz4/kEP3Bp8b_-EyamUVsfdurI8K8GpzDg93wCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bSwx9qvlom8/XBjKn_ilx4I/AAAAAAAAEz4/kEP3Bp8b_-EyamUVsfdurI8K8GpzDg93wCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08884.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Shaman Netuk performing a ritual. Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></o:p></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cICzxm8Yghs/XBjKpMvckEI/AAAAAAAAEz8/WMlIN-lZiHA6eRORB90HItzwCZcaChqQgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cICzxm8Yghs/XBjKpMvckEI/AAAAAAAAEz8/WMlIN-lZiHA6eRORB90HItzwCZcaChqQgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08885.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The offering of flowers, fruit and chi to the Nature spirits.</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L5qIoxLe9qc/XBjKqDhiGBI/AAAAAAAAE0A/k6RCxPeuaAcLyO4RfmSbIOKBpGB9ftP2ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L5qIoxLe9qc/XBjKqDhiGBI/AAAAAAAAE0A/k6RCxPeuaAcLyO4RfmSbIOKBpGB9ftP2ACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08886.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The altar and the ritual. </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Even their wedding rituals abound with analogies to Nature.
The Shaman blesses the bride and groom with the benediction that their marriage
may be as long as the rivers Teesta and Rangeet have been flowing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxy7jKVKqNY/XBjKwGhjR1I/AAAAAAAAE0E/hUhM3c_6DikD2EhVm83P5rf4T9Ace0VugCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxy7jKVKqNY/XBjKwGhjR1I/AAAAAAAAE0E/hUhM3c_6DikD2EhVm83P5rf4T9Ace0VugCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08887.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Offering of the chi with butter to the nature spirits. </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Py4B3ONCcVI/XBjKxDyQVfI/AAAAAAAAE0I/nNnfAByHpMgR0YG4ZFAuntbmNSnAanhKQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Py4B3ONCcVI/XBjKxDyQVfI/AAAAAAAAE0I/nNnfAByHpMgR0YG4ZFAuntbmNSnAanhKQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08888.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Village people partaking of the chi after the ritual.</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The onset of seasons is also heralded by birds which are
believed to fly out from the base of the Kanchenjunga, where the secret paradise
lies, to inform people about seasonal and weather changes. The racket tailed
drongo, especially, is considered very important in Lepcha culture. The detached
âracketâ feather of the bird, if found, is considered very lucky and is used as
adornment on menâs traditional hats. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AoKAuvfjQK0/XBjK640_lQI/AAAAAAAAE0U/xByxJ56yWPYnY9Lmgew3v4F5xTNTKXvZgCLcBGAs/s1600/Thokro%2Bdum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="730" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AoKAuvfjQK0/XBjK640_lQI/AAAAAAAAE0U/xByxJ56yWPYnY9Lmgew3v4F5xTNTKXvZgCLcBGAs/s640/Thokro%2Bdum.jpg" width="290" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Traditional attire of the Lepcha man with the 'racket' feather of the racket tailed drongo on the hat</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I saw a documentary of Shaman Netuk where he leads a group
of people to the upper reaches of Dzongu. Before crossing a river or a stream or
a sacred grove, the Shaman makes an offering of flowers, fruit and the local
brew âchiâ to the spirits of the forest and seeks their permission to enter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The âchiâ, the local beer brewed from millet is very
integral to all Lepchas activities. They themselves drink copious amounts of
Chi and also offer it to the Gods and spirits on every occasion, be it
weddings, funerals, house-warming or just casual get-togethers. Another important
ritual that happens annually is the propitiation of the Kanchenjunga. This
happens sometime in January. An altar is created facing the scared mountain,
with wood and flowers and an offering of fruit, meat, eggs and chi is made. The
Shaman leads the ritual by asking the Kanchenjunga to protect her children from
all calamities and ensure a good harvest. At the end of the ritual, the Shaman
breaks open 3 eggs and reads the pattern it forms to predict what lies in store
for the Lepchas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQY7AUFJzMc/XBjLENPZSOI/AAAAAAAAE0k/mwxeU9W8cxoG7mwdJ1ds_0U4mxodQUWUQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08890.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nQY7AUFJzMc/XBjLENPZSOI/AAAAAAAAE0k/mwxeU9W8cxoG7mwdJ1ds_0U4mxodQUWUQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08890.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fortune telling by breaking the eggs. </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CwRIfuQcorg/XBjLC1CiARI/AAAAAAAAE0g/o1zO8UbIcwUHbEnLi5QkDP1-h3i7KcqUQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CwRIfuQcorg/XBjLC1CiARI/AAAAAAAAE0g/o1zO8UbIcwUHbEnLi5QkDP1-h3i7KcqUQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08892.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">What do the eggs say?</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picture taken from the documentary on the laptop.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">At Shaman Tithi Gyatsoâs home before taking his leave, I
asked him to give me a message without the rituals, because we didnât have time
for that. He said that I should avoid travelling for the next 2-3 months as I
may fall ill. That could have been true because I was inflicted with a
recurring throat infection around the same time. I thanked him for his message
and we started our way back to the home-stay across the same slippery rocks,
streams and enchanted groves. The Nature fairies had heard my prayer. We
arrived just as the sky was swallowing the last remnants of light. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In a place where Shamans and Nature reign supreme, could it
have been any other way?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u2WVcJtuOCY/XBjLLyJ65FI/AAAAAAAAE0s/ktUT6qRMcVcQgbU99Zx12oFMyyGy12GqgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180329_063430091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u2WVcJtuOCY/XBjLLyJ65FI/AAAAAAAAE0s/ktUT6qRMcVcQgbU99Zx12oFMyyGy12GqgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20180329_063430091.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The sunrise on the morning I left</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYbRRPzFIL4/XBjLM-W__kI/AAAAAAAAE0w/xC2J7aOndaMDzqkSDATiweHChHrrNO6ZwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180329_070731232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYbRRPzFIL4/XBjLM-W__kI/AAAAAAAAE0w/xC2J7aOndaMDzqkSDATiweHChHrrNO6ZwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20180329_070731232.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The dramatic sky</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In ancient Lepcha communities, owing to their
hunter-gatherer lifestyle, cut off from urban civilization, where the
sustenance was entirely on forests, Shamans would have had a greater role to
play, I am guessing. But I am happy, I could meet the Shamans of Dzongu and
gather information on Nature worship rituals and gain an insight into their way
of life.</span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-59790236192800464342018-12-17T08:11:00.003-08:002018-12-18T02:45:20.699-08:00Experiencing Bird(ing) Paradise in Sarmoli<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VkDjWCKwb50/XBdBP6vZ8CI/AAAAAAAAEuM/ZnLNjehu_ocxWYIg4LY0aMpOd-Ot72kWgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VkDjWCKwb50/XBdBP6vZ8CI/AAAAAAAAEuM/ZnLNjehu_ocxWYIg4LY0aMpOd-Ot72kWgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07917.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The forest floor carpeted with rhododendron petals.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You've heard of the saying, 'You can't have your cake and eat it too'? Well, I realised if you are a Hindu that's totally possible. Now, before you think this is a religious statement, (of course I am a proud Hindu) let me hasten to explain why :-) In 2017, I had a unique wish for my birthday. I wanted to celebrate my birthday with the Nature fairies in a forest and wanted the birds to sing my birthday song:-) Well, while it may sound like fantasy to some, I knew that was totally possible. If this time-space reality has the ability to give birth to a desire, it also has the power to fulfill it! So the answer lay in my long pending trip to Sarmoli, which had been getting postponed for the last 3 years. The only hitch was that I also wanted to be with my favourite person that day- my husband who couldn't travel with me. So that is where being a Hindu came to my rescue. For us Hindus, we get to celebrate our birthday twice a year, one on the day as per the Gregorian calendar and another as per the Hindu lunar calendar (called 'tithi'). Both birthdays usually fall within a few days of each other.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">You may also like my blog post on </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/02/retracing-path-of-nomadic-shepherds-in.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">'Following the path of Nomadic shepherds'</span></a></i></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8Og4jSVwTQ/XBfGrsuNK8I/AAAAAAAAEys/68Jfj-UG09Y1OZyVeUPSXlnTe3_Zx-QWgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8Og4jSVwTQ/XBfGrsuNK8I/AAAAAAAAEys/68Jfj-UG09Y1OZyVeUPSXlnTe3_Zx-QWgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07784.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Curled up with a book in my home-stay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">So I spent my Georgian calendar birthday with my husband and off I went the next day morning to Sarmoli, after a flight to Delhi, an overnight train to Kathgodam and a 10 hour road trip to this quaint village. Sarmoli is also home to the Himal Prakriti trust- an organization that works to conserve the forests in Munsiyari. I had been in touch with Malika Virdi, the woman behind the conservation initiatives and the community run homestays. I decided I wanted to also contribute in some way I can. So we decided that I would illustrate birds of the region. I was asked to illustrate the Laughing Thrushes that inhabit the Munsiyari area- totally eight of them. Hereâs my work. They would be printed on brochures by Himal Prakriti for educational campaigns.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M6RsPIg7M7w/XBdCEz9g8sI/AAAAAAAAEuc/gO-bDm-Ih1c97M4dPGDckCViFtst2GOYACLcBGAs/s1600/Chestnut%2Bcrowned%2BLT%2Bwm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="706" data-original-width="1000" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M6RsPIg7M7w/XBdCEz9g8sI/AAAAAAAAEuc/gO-bDm-Ih1c97M4dPGDckCViFtst2GOYACLcBGAs/s400/Chestnut%2Bcrowned%2BLT%2Bwm.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Chestnut crowned Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fw8NeYvGw8Q/XBdCF_SG5KI/AAAAAAAAEug/QdOlbkmf2jQMPRATziWfvol0gGP-g7WZgCLcBGAs/s1600/Rufous%2Bchinned%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1000" height="271" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fw8NeYvGw8Q/XBdCF_SG5KI/AAAAAAAAEug/QdOlbkmf2jQMPRATziWfvol0gGP-g7WZgCLcBGAs/s400/Rufous%2Bchinned%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rufous chinned Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3dQfeFZClUI/XBdCHFpEG-I/AAAAAAAAEuk/YaMoNq1k3KgqdRSlOXONBdUi1FB8oaEewCLcBGAs/s1600/Spotted%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="1000" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3dQfeFZClUI/XBdCHFpEG-I/AAAAAAAAEuk/YaMoNq1k3KgqdRSlOXONBdUi1FB8oaEewCLcBGAs/s400/Spotted%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Spotted Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBIBJh_9c1Y/XBdCJpR9ZOI/AAAAAAAAEuo/l5zp-ZoNPtMwdlXwYVUu-9g8oKR8TwUuwCLcBGAs/s1600/Streaked%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="1000" height="281" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBIBJh_9c1Y/XBdCJpR9ZOI/AAAAAAAAEuo/l5zp-ZoNPtMwdlXwYVUu-9g8oKR8TwUuwCLcBGAs/s400/Streaked%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Streaked Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GJuXNC_DEn4/XBdCJk9P1VI/AAAAAAAAEus/L7lhIXhazJwh8Pulcxe61fXTrW1lvyuBgCLcBGAs/s1600/Striated%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="1000" height="326" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GJuXNC_DEn4/XBdCJk9P1VI/AAAAAAAAEus/L7lhIXhazJwh8Pulcxe61fXTrW1lvyuBgCLcBGAs/s400/Striated%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Striated Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XC32AF_Lh4g/XBdCLdiTzPI/AAAAAAAAEuw/-Kum84YJuQAW-0BMhz61GeQXCKcHivDoQCLcBGAs/s1600/Variegated%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="1000" height="346" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XC32AF_Lh4g/XBdCLdiTzPI/AAAAAAAAEuw/-Kum84YJuQAW-0BMhz61GeQXCKcHivDoQCLcBGAs/s400/Variegated%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Variegated Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--qRhJgWj_sI/XBdCOIPxGoI/AAAAAAAAEu4/wFQJLXSIZgU-eWG8BojcxjmnT2cSsDoFACLcBGAs/s1600/White%2Bcrowned%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="1000" height="255" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--qRhJgWj_sI/XBdCOIPxGoI/AAAAAAAAEu4/wFQJLXSIZgU-eWG8BojcxjmnT2cSsDoFACLcBGAs/s400/White%2Bcrowned%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JWzVKRkuxvA/XBdCMwo8VoI/AAAAAAAAEu0/TybL7S2-szMDB5hlT0rD-CpvdgVq5hQvgCLcBGAs/s1600/White%2Bthroated%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="736" data-original-width="1000" height="293" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JWzVKRkuxvA/XBdCMwo8VoI/AAAAAAAAEu0/TybL7S2-szMDB5hlT0rD-CpvdgVq5hQvgCLcBGAs/s400/White%2Bthroated%2BLT%2Bwm%2Bcopy.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">White throated Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The very first morning I was woken up by the songs of so many birds. I went out and there was the son of my host, all of 10 years, confidently naming each and every bird that was singing. Barbets, Verditer Flycatcher, woodpeckers, warblers, etc. </span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FreEJ4Lkukg/XBejSZHG2DI/AAAAAAAAEvk/X0nMOM5hEeU0DeYDjpBgxphoWDO53_fRwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07687.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FreEJ4Lkukg/XBejSZHG2DI/AAAAAAAAEvk/X0nMOM5hEeU0DeYDjpBgxphoWDO53_fRwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07687.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Woodpecker</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The realisation dawned on me that I was in bird paradise, and that my trip was going to be a beautiful bird-filled one! I would be woken up every morning at around 5.30 am by the birds and I would sit up on my bed, wide eyed, watching the sun infuse energy into everything around. Slowly the bird song would reach a crescendo giving the day a perfect start!Munsiyari, the hamlet in which the village Sarmoli lies, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is rich in bio-diversity and has around 350 species of birds and I was looking forward to seeing as many as I could.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx-q4nqAixc/XBefFBOGwTI/AAAAAAAAEvU/ycxRjh124dcxL629P8XIfadhBRUvvzU7ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx-q4nqAixc/XBefFBOGwTI/AAAAAAAAEvU/ycxRjh124dcxL629P8XIfadhBRUvvzU7ACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07693.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yellow Grosbeak- male and female</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was assigned a large desk next to a large picture window in Ramâs dream mountain house. Ram, originally from Chennai, has made Sarmoli his home since the last 24 years. One look at his wood and stone house, you would know that this is what weary urban office goers dream of. Well, Iâm not a typical office goer, but I too dream to have a house like his, basking in the lap of the Panchachuli mountains.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UKs_Xgx63pc/XBejJEgiZII/AAAAAAAAEvg/yb4AKwdgQBsHsjiy-4BelGPI0nKpnzh3wCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UKs_Xgx63pc/XBejJEgiZII/AAAAAAAAEvg/yb4AKwdgQBsHsjiy-4BelGPI0nKpnzh3wCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07715.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My workdesk :-)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Now, this window where I sat each of the 10 days and sketched away, overlooked a magnificent walnut tree, amongst others and beyond it was the gorgeous snow peaked Panchachuli mountains! </span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C_8xy4EyQPI/XBejdrnJxaI/AAAAAAAAEvs/ApTOESe0ms4njqxw9EPLuo--7nGLO7jcACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C_8xy4EyQPI/XBejdrnJxaI/AAAAAAAAEvs/ApTOESe0ms4njqxw9EPLuo--7nGLO7jcACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07941.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Panchachuli mountains</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Could I have asked for anything more! Now comes the best part! Ordinarily, one would have to walk around to spot birds. But sitting right where I was, I could get such splendid sighting of birds such as Whistling Thrush, Rufous Treepie, Red billed Blue Magpie, shy Partridges, etc. I carry only a small pocket sized camera, so these are âhumbleâ pictures but they will give you an idea of the beauty I experienced.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOG5-mjzjas/XBejtFnaCQI/AAAAAAAAEv8/jY2S8f5_beoQh3rlb_2y_5CZa_INYEFuQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOG5-mjzjas/XBejtFnaCQI/AAAAAAAAEv8/jY2S8f5_beoQh3rlb_2y_5CZa_INYEFuQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07709.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yellow billed Blue magpies and Rufous Treepie</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Chestnut crowned Laughing Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7kC9pJ4VYGY/XBejtS6_t6I/AAAAAAAAEwA/HPjYwE0_Jj0DEA4HMT0Esy0BJXgi_TZYQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07796.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7kC9pJ4VYGY/XBejtS6_t6I/AAAAAAAAEwA/HPjYwE0_Jj0DEA4HMT0Esy0BJXgi_TZYQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07796.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Whistling Thrush</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tq8Jh6qY6R4/XBejvmXPpQI/AAAAAAAAEwE/0BN6iiwiuHwMgvwtk8QaZVgnET9shLGIACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tq8Jh6qY6R4/XBejvmXPpQI/AAAAAAAAEwE/0BN6iiwiuHwMgvwtk8QaZVgnET9shLGIACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07800.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Khalij pheasant and a Turtle Dove</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As in all mountain regions, the weather would be moody and each day was different. Sometimes, the sky would be aglow with purple, pink and gold, some days there would be cottony clouds floating through huge beams of sunlight. </span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sT5J1oSk_IE/XBekjxr3WdI/AAAAAAAAEwc/OFElPSAVvwk6w_XroSpkTM_sO3cLID2SQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sT5J1oSk_IE/XBekjxr3WdI/AAAAAAAAEwc/OFElPSAVvwk6w_XroSpkTM_sO3cLID2SQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07713.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Different moods of the sky.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P51ZmeMWKpk/XBekhBAfH5I/AAAAAAAAEwY/W8rTHhIbSbc9Lx6SlH6xeauxgjviYpjvACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P51ZmeMWKpk/XBekhBAfH5I/AAAAAAAAEwY/W8rTHhIbSbc9Lx6SlH6xeauxgjviYpjvACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07861.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Can you spot the UFO landing? Kidding...it's a sun beam :-)</span></td></tr>
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<img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6MYLKF-JFrQ/XBekkvBSTPI/AAAAAAAAEwg/q4gZLVpKcxIItRzXZMOJfGy1LOz8g9vMACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07872.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Just before sunrise</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I even experienced hailstorm, my first ever. Luckily, I was watching it from the cozy comfort of Ramâs home, or else I would have had a dent or two on my skull! But it was beautiful, to see lemon sized hail stones pelting down from the heavens above. As soon as the storm subsided, I went to pick up a few hailstones. How wonderful!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2j0i4zTGMxQ/XBekt8pNnBI/AAAAAAAAEwo/Yblh3XEFZk0f__9EBE06cWHp_x7FYaotwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2j0i4zTGMxQ/XBekt8pNnBI/AAAAAAAAEwo/Yblh3XEFZk0f__9EBE06cWHp_x7FYaotwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07745.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Hailstones on my palm. I was thrilled!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JRgv5NTT7yg/XBelJ-2aKsI/AAAAAAAAEw8/jJLY6qIIgUoeZZKt83u1Sh6BXl8ZQP59ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JRgv5NTT7yg/XBelJ-2aKsI/AAAAAAAAEw8/jJLY6qIIgUoeZZKt83u1Sh6BXl8ZQP59ACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07749.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Hailstones everywhere!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">So, on my Hindu calendar birthday, I went on this amazing trek-cum-birdwatching trip on the upper reaches of the Munsiari mountains, where I had only birds (hundreds of them), the snow capped Panchachuli mountains and the forest fairies for company. And just as I had wanted, I spent the whole day being enthralled by the beauty of the forest, reading a book, taking a nap on the flower strewn grass, and meditating, with the birds singing for me in chorus throughout:-) </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">You may like my post on the </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/01/chasing-rhododendron-blooms-on.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Rhododendron trek</span></a></i></span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YiwdivCHC1E/XBelfdMokqI/AAAAAAAAExM/zT8UOHiJvz8IPKeVQBUZsZFTynw4KSKawCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YiwdivCHC1E/XBelfdMokqI/AAAAAAAAExM/zT8UOHiJvz8IPKeVQBUZsZFTynw4KSKawCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07914.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Taking in the beauty of the forest.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A received a red carpet welcome! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X3KQzUPfYLw/XBe-FBWhLsI/AAAAAAAAEyg/xTRzmaPk2ykbAdVR7hrriJu8-5NIu-rmgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X3KQzUPfYLw/XBe-FBWhLsI/AAAAAAAAEyg/xTRzmaPk2ykbAdVR7hrriJu8-5NIu-rmgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07949.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Reading a book in the forest.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was greeted with sights like these- of the forest floor carpeted with rhododendron flowers, golden sunlight streaming through the thousand shades of green and porcelain blue skies speckled with fluffy clouds. We even had a little party with me eating some </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/kumaoni-cuisine-gastronomical-delight.html" style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: x-large;" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">delicious gobi-parathas and rajma</span> </a><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">which my host had packed for me while the birds snacked on insects and seeds around. </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">:-) I cannot even begin listing the variety of birds I spotted, but I've drawn a few. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.purplesoul.org/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">My illustration of the birthday with birds</span> </a><span style="color: #444444;">:-)</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">To the left is the Yellow billed Blue Magpie, Rosefinch, Woodpecker, Verditer Flycatcher, and to the right are the Long tailed Minivet, Barbet, Warbler and the Black and Yellow Grosbeak. All the birds looked like they had been dipped in buckets of happy colours and sprinkled with some more for patterns </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">:-) That's going to be one of my best memories forever. Thank you Universe!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mesar Kund</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While I am writing about Sarmoli, the community effort of the village people deserves a mention. What makes this village different from others is that the forests around the village are owned by the community as opposed to being owned by the Government or private individuals. I was completely floored by the pride and reverence that the people of Sarmoli have for their culture, mountains and forests. Each person of the village does voluntary 'Shram-daan', meaning offering service in the forests for any number of days in a year. One day while trekking up I saw a group of 7 children jumping into the Mesar kund, a pond in the forest. I thought they were having fun. But my guide pointed out that the children were cleaning up the pond- removing plastic bottles and bags strewn by thoughtless tourists. This concept of a community owned forest is the only kind outside of the North East of India. Here, I am basking in the warmth and love of the forests near Nag deo kund. :-) <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kheela devi with the carpets she has woven</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Our traditional self sustaining societies included weavers and Sarmoli is no different. There are weavers of shawls, sweaters and woollen mats and carpets in Sarmoli, but I could only meet Kheela devi who weaves beautiful woollen mats and carpets in traditional Kumaoni designs. These are sold through Maati Sangathan, a women's collective founded by Malika Virdi, about whom I will talk later. To give the mats an interesting spin, designs of birds found locally are also incorporated. I visited Kheela Devi's home, saw her at work and bought a colourful mat woven by her at the Maati office.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bird motifs on mats</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yellow billed blue magpie on a mat</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The first 5 days I spent in a home-stay which I have nothing to write about. The host, Pushpa Sumtyal, did not keep basic necessities like milk for tea and</span><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><span style="color: #444444;">I had only potatoes for 5 days! I was wondering if I should have skipped writing this, but I also need to give an honest review of my experience. So I requested a change of home-stay and the second one more than made up for the 1</span><sup style="color: #444444;">st</sup><span style="color: #444444;"> five days. I would never forget my endearing, warm hosts, Saraswati Thakuni, her daughter-in-law and her grand daughter, Bhanu for making authentic Kumaoni dishes for me.</span> <span style="color: #444444;">I have dedicated an entire post about </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/kumaoni-cuisine-gastronomical-delight.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kumaoni food</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> and thanks to Bhanu I could sample as many as 16 dishes over a period of 5 days at her place.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><span style="color: #444444;"> <span style="font-size: large;">You may also like my post on </span></span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2015/09/a-taste-of-paharihimachali-cuisine.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">Himachali cuisine</span></a></i></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lip smacking Kumaoni dishes made by Bhanu Thakuni</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I would surely recommend Sarmoli for a relaxed getaway in Natureâs lap. You may contact Malika Virdi at 9411194041 or Ram Narayan at 9411194042 for homestays.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yellow billed blue magpies giving me a farewell.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The full moon soothing my soul</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On the last evening of my stay there, I took a long walk around the village, my heart already heavy that I would be leaving next morning. On the path I saw some Yellow billed Blue Magpies gathered as if to give me a warm farewell and I looked up at the sky. There was the full moon in its glory beaming at me, assuring me that I will continue to have such beautiful experiences. </span><br />
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-49236792800656779372017-10-11T09:52:00.001-07:002019-02-07T01:39:13.836-08:00Kumaoni Cuisine- A Gastronomical Delight!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">When I landed in Sarmoli in April this year to </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">celebrate my birthday with birds</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, I had no idea
of the gastronomical journey that awaited me. While I knew that, as in most
villages, the food would be fresh from the farm to the kitchen, I did not
expect Kumaoni food to be so distinct and unique. Why? Because I had never
heard of Kumaoni food before. And I wonder why?</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bhaang ki chutney- chutney made with cannabis seeds.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I stayed with two different hosts during my 10 day stay
there. While with the first host, I tried a few unique things like bhaang ki
chutney, and Bhaang ke pakode, it was my second host who completely blew my
mind with the varieties she whipped up for every meal.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kumaoni food is best described as simple, earthy, rustic and robust. The meals are essentially simple but bursting with flavours and full of nutrients. It is characterized by the use of herbs that are
unique to the place, such as Timur, Jimboo, Gandhrayani, etc. In the kitchen of my second home-stay, all meals were prepared only on the traditional 'chulha' or hearth and not on cooking gas. So, by default everything was slow cooked and the chulha imparts a distinct taste to the food while enhancing its taste several notches higher.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">All the dishes were served on Kansa plates and bowls. Traditionally in India, Kansa (an alloy of copper and tin) was used for eating because as per Ayurveda, the alkalising properties of the metal are very beneficial for one's body. That, and the love and enthusiasm with which Bhanu, my hostess, cooked each and every meal, satiated my body and soul. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qFyw3QflyRQ/Wd75u9iLr7I/AAAAAAAAEGk/vymC2SbEFu4RLEogmMHTYTzGXLOqEu1YgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qFyw3QflyRQ/Wd75u9iLr7I/AAAAAAAAEGk/vymC2SbEFu4RLEogmMHTYTzGXLOqEu1YgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07761.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My hostess cooking on the 'chulha'.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bZN2kRB72O0/Wd75v_bJ01I/AAAAAAAAEGo/KpdT_sUJm_QlMiwGCFCyNdezIrD2l0pwACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="748" data-original-width="997" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bZN2kRB72O0/Wd75v_bJ01I/AAAAAAAAEGo/KpdT_sUJm_QlMiwGCFCyNdezIrD2l0pwACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07873.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The cute kitchen from the outside.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;"> </span><i><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/09/a-taste-of-paharihimachali-cuisine.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may also like my post on Himachali Cuisine</span>.</a></span></i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kbZz6WsGKaw/Wd498-SrA6I/AAAAAAAAED0/MS1H22SIP-gePvFxf-cA1DNqZyWEjvd1QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kbZz6WsGKaw/Wd498-SrA6I/AAAAAAAAED0/MS1H22SIP-gePvFxf-cA1DNqZyWEjvd1QCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07498.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Jimboo leaves being sun dried.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eizwn16X438/Wd498viprBI/AAAAAAAAEDw/f1lpibfF-BUGr4B2KDGuVxwn1jViJAduwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eizwn16X438/Wd498viprBI/AAAAAAAAEDw/f1lpibfF-BUGr4B2KDGuVxwn1jViJAduwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07703.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bhaang seeds/ Cannabis seeds.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My second host, Saraswati Thakuniâs sweet grand-daughter
named Bhanu was the magician in the kitchen. With a commendable passion and
pride in Kumaoni food, she put up a splendid display and gave me a taste of
most things that Kumaon is known for!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-21bFioSxRFI/Wd4-Iv7dCJI/AAAAAAAAEEA/gyP0MCEt5nIrOQCeLNoHZzbvu9ONP-pQwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-21bFioSxRFI/Wd4-Iv7dCJI/AAAAAAAAEEA/gyP0MCEt5nIrOQCeLNoHZzbvu9ONP-pQwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07502.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Giant radishes in the farm.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2019/02/cuisine-of-lepchas-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">You may like my blog post on Cuisine of the Lepchas</span>.</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dQi2UnXutNg/Wd4-IsVd0WI/AAAAAAAAED8/upUOgGTdbKkK0Ih3eGjeD4r2ja2moO3YwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170410_131753321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dQi2UnXutNg/Wd4-IsVd0WI/AAAAAAAAED8/upUOgGTdbKkK0Ih3eGjeD4r2ja2moO3YwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20170410_131753321.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Cabbage fields.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Hereâs what I ate. Be warned youâll be extremely hungry by
the time you finish reading this post!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My first meal was plain parathas, delectable rajma and
Bhaang ki chutney. And the wheat, rajma and bhaang, everything is from their
own farm. Need I say how I savored every morsel of it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L8zWMJG1mxo/Wd4-RoC48oI/AAAAAAAAEEI/N_WKmeIAoGMcgaEBThMliBBtpd5aymCvwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L8zWMJG1mxo/Wd4-RoC48oI/AAAAAAAAEEI/N_WKmeIAoGMcgaEBThMliBBtpd5aymCvwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07779.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rajma and parathas.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-szht7o2sELc/Wd4-RjQEPSI/AAAAAAAAEEE/XcreGE7vPj0AgKxSaHg4ni1tDoFAe00mQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-szht7o2sELc/Wd4-RjQEPSI/AAAAAAAAEEE/XcreGE7vPj0AgKxSaHg4ni1tDoFAe00mQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07764.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rotis, malka daal and saag.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Most of the days I was there, there were heavy hailstorms
and thunder. My room had a metal sheet over the tiled roof, and the sound of
the hail stones hitting the roof was so amplified that at one point I thought
that monsters were trying to rip down the room to get me. But Iâm safe and
sound writing this a few months later! Blame it on my wild imagination! One
such evening after I returned from my </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">illustration assignment</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, my host prepared
some comforting soup called âJiaâ. Itâs a soup made with roasted rice, salt and
a herb called âthunerâ. This soup was served with some jaggery.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-74MxTTHH54A/Wd4-ij7L_ZI/AAAAAAAAEEU/xxzrv70miYc52FVTE4VLBneVolVvRvxUQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-74MxTTHH54A/Wd4-ij7L_ZI/AAAAAAAAEEU/xxzrv70miYc52FVTE4VLBneVolVvRvxUQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07807.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mundve ki roti, masoor dal and gobi subzi.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i4T5Q4Zk70M/Wd4-hkC_bXI/AAAAAAAAEEQ/buCFwIyWWm0vR8ZPDUBJCqLJcgq686wyQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i4T5Q4Zk70M/Wd4-hkC_bXI/AAAAAAAAEEQ/buCFwIyWWm0vR8ZPDUBJCqLJcgq686wyQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07809.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A fritter called Chunni.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One breakfast was lavish with Mundve ka halva, a Kumaoni
noodles called âKoklaâ and jimboo parathas. Mundve is a millet widely eaten in
Uttarakhand and is similar to finger millet (ragi, nachni) in colour and taste.
Jimboo is a herb that is eaten fresh mixed with parathas or dried and used in
gravies and lentils. I loved the Kokla so much that Bhanu made that on
the morning I was leaving and packed some for me to eat on the way back.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p-rTRVYfh4k/Wd4-toCT7mI/AAAAAAAAEEY/UzoSICQZazwmikIywm_FrHBh4f4DO1rIACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p-rTRVYfh4k/Wd4-toCT7mI/AAAAAAAAEEY/UzoSICQZazwmikIywm_FrHBh4f4DO1rIACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07814.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Thoya rice. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gb1NBcVgARM/Wd4_tTich8I/AAAAAAAAEFo/bUGWMgdMdls-6YhqpXAgW2hIeKkAiEvZgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gb1NBcVgARM/Wd4_tTich8I/AAAAAAAAEFo/bUGWMgdMdls-6YhqpXAgW2hIeKkAiEvZgCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08007.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Thoya seeds- a bit like cumin seeds but much stronger in flavour.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FjzNLRurIgw/Wd4-veWF7wI/AAAAAAAAEEc/G-ceTN6ZzGorBSUpSUi6-q2m6jRV8C-0ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FjzNLRurIgw/Wd4-veWF7wI/AAAAAAAAEEc/G-ceTN6ZzGorBSUpSUi6-q2m6jRV8C-0ACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07843.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mundve ka halva, jimboo parathas and Kumaoni noodles called Kokla.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">With tea, one time I was served a fritter called âchunniâ
made with wheat flour, sugar and rice flour.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another herb that is liberally used is Thoya. It looks like
cumin seeds much has a much stronger flavor. Bhanu made some thoya fried rice
with it for dinner one day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FqwqiG9Jy8/Wd4-6cPTafI/AAAAAAAAEEk/ScdsaTqakBEtH2GrdcpSFltI3Y0O1lQYQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FqwqiG9Jy8/Wd4-6cPTafI/AAAAAAAAEEk/ScdsaTqakBEtH2GrdcpSFltI3Y0O1lQYQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07878.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bhutt (black soya bean) being cooked.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CvANDuHVgn8/Wd4_lua0aaI/AAAAAAAAEFQ/cDJisMmR2nUcQyWk0LlPSbdTLPOs3xinQCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC07985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CvANDuHVgn8/Wd4_lua0aaI/AAAAAAAAEFQ/cDJisMmR2nUcQyWk0LlPSbdTLPOs3xinQCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC07985.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Close up of bhutt.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ioerV-xV4JU/Wd4-6eDPPGI/AAAAAAAAEEo/G_bmdXtBJaUz-G3-DTWJDuIWotNguE8EACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ioerV-xV4JU/Wd4-6eDPPGI/AAAAAAAAEEo/G_bmdXtBJaUz-G3-DTWJDuIWotNguE8EACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07889.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mundve ki roti, bhutt daal and muthiyas.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">There is another pulse called âbhuttâ (black soya bean)which Sarmoli has
stopped growing but which they procure from another village. Bhanu had got some
to cook for me. Itâs very high in nutrition and I was told that her grandmotherâs
generation and before that, women had a meal of this bhutt dal and worked in the
farm and fields the whole day and remained strong even in their old age.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NHlEQ71SCfI/Wd4_JTusq5I/AAAAAAAAEE0/vypuw7uWQPYzs3LuxYjBbF46nImLkyO4QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NHlEQ71SCfI/Wd4_JTusq5I/AAAAAAAAEE0/vypuw7uWQPYzs3LuxYjBbF46nImLkyO4QCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07880.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Jiya soup with jaggery.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7b3kPp98iI/Wd5EgJSBGbI/AAAAAAAAEGM/hnSfiMogGWsFeQcUcFumzmHl9AHHZ5ekACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170410_142616477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7b3kPp98iI/Wd5EgJSBGbI/AAAAAAAAEGM/hnSfiMogGWsFeQcUcFumzmHl9AHHZ5ekACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20170410_142616477.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The herb called gandhraini.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dz9BxdBvOa8/Wd5EgUFuRyI/AAAAAAAAEGU/qZyvoHqJ2eAW8xAN8xfk43hqkoQSj9VFwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170410_142752768_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="1000" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dz9BxdBvOa8/Wd5EgUFuRyI/AAAAAAAAEGU/qZyvoHqJ2eAW8xAN8xfk43hqkoQSj9VFwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_20170410_142752768_HDR.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Thuner, a bark of a tree also used as a culinary herb.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLP9_BM-9hk/Wd4_Il01-RI/AAAAAAAAEEw/T0z_CT_bpWcr0TRKtaGGq6Fm2QCAU_UXQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pLP9_BM-9hk/Wd4_Il01-RI/AAAAAAAAEEw/T0z_CT_bpWcr0TRKtaGGq6Fm2QCAU_UXQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07966.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Atte ka halva.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One day I offered to cook a Gujarati dish called Muthiya. Itâs made of wheat flour, bottle gourd and some chickpea flour. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mn8mg07Khp4/Wd4_In7QcjI/AAAAAAAAEEs/1E6YA4fWKBsx6vrJQxNizBMJTn7IS9qGgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mn8mg07Khp4/Wd4_In7QcjI/AAAAAAAAEEs/1E6YA4fWKBsx6vrJQxNizBMJTn7IS9qGgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07976.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Dried bitter gourds.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss9wNyxliKA/Wd4_J4nhODI/AAAAAAAAEE8/g0UcGDRC30klwZQOrXrKcVQALE_7rKZ0gCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss9wNyxliKA/Wd4_J4nhODI/AAAAAAAAEE8/g0UcGDRC30klwZQOrXrKcVQALE_7rKZ0gCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07981.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Clockwise from left- Dubka, dried bitter gourd subzi, Phonn and roti.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">I did a </span><a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html"><span style="color: red;">whole day trek-cum-bird watching trip</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> to the upper reaches of the forest and my host had packed some out-of-the-world delicious gobi parathas and rajma. Gosh! I have never tasted gobi parathas as scrumptious as this.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HAKWt4CPDiI/Wd4_dhe2_oI/AAAAAAAAEFE/xQq0uCDOTmIMikJchsZUiK8L98sBTaLmgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HAKWt4CPDiI/Wd4_dhe2_oI/AAAAAAAAEFE/xQq0uCDOTmIMikJchsZUiK8L98sBTaLmgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07944.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rajma and gobi parathas.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_w3IngcsaKg/Wd4_dpa_upI/AAAAAAAAEFA/6-FoBngnbGM_ehPb2fbS2wCBH5RaPG-6QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_w3IngcsaKg/Wd4_dpa_upI/AAAAAAAAEFA/6-FoBngnbGM_ehPb2fbS2wCBH5RaPG-6QCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07959.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Khajura.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My trek guide had carried a typical Kumaoni snack called Khajura with him made by the local women. Itâs similar to shakkar para but coarser.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-22IH4dqQcz0/Wd4-56OF8GI/AAAAAAAAEE4/CosDmT7SI8kgvWC1USoxo4nza6ByH_pRwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC07879.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-22IH4dqQcz0/Wd4-56OF8GI/AAAAAAAAEE4/CosDmT7SI8kgvWC1USoxo4nza6ByH_pRwCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC07879.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Timur, a spice like black pepper.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ccCSpbPBgm8/Wd5CNja6uXI/AAAAAAAAEFs/6iI_uSEl9wQz2w8QwlioEnVKAkD0CDTewCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170410_131313485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1244" data-original-width="700" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ccCSpbPBgm8/Wd5CNja6uXI/AAAAAAAAEFs/6iI_uSEl9wQz2w8QwlioEnVKAkD0CDTewCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_20170410_131313485.jpg" width="360" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This is the timur tree, full of thorns. Wonder how they pick the timur from this?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The hosts has organized a pooja one day so for Prasad they made Atte ke halva, made with wheat flour, sugar, ghee and milk.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sGjQDNaom3s/Wd4_lceuGlI/AAAAAAAAEFI/RUMPLiMI8y4UAtAjQ6JpWNZQ50iJkBqUACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sGjQDNaom3s/Wd4_lceuGlI/AAAAAAAAEFI/RUMPLiMI8y4UAtAjQ6JpWNZQ50iJkBqUACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07986.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A pancake called Puli.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qCF9D5DnFsw/Wd4_tatfwsI/AAAAAAAAEFY/za6Im2y4KmsF09awgjl2qfTQzj-VArsxgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qCF9D5DnFsw/Wd4_tatfwsI/AAAAAAAAEFY/za6Im2y4KmsF09awgjl2qfTQzj-VArsxgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08014.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This is a fragrant root which is fed to the cattle. It was so fragrant, was tempted to take a bite! </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In Kumaon, they grow a bitter gourd which is actually sweet. They call it meetha karela. They dry it and use it round the year.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KTy-eQ6Ktk8/Wd4_9XHJknI/AAAAAAAAEFc/mRP1XJ8UhwkDe8xIuBNlSTF-WcP3LI71gCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KTy-eQ6Ktk8/Wd4_9XHJknI/AAAAAAAAEFc/mRP1XJ8UhwkDe8xIuBNlSTF-WcP3LI71gCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08013.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bhanu, my sweet host cooking spinach. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wh5EcSQ9nDc/Wd4_9egopDI/AAAAAAAAEFg/AwskmILtUxwv_ER6hCBlDe1whwDjnCyrACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wh5EcSQ9nDc/Wd4_9egopDI/AAAAAAAAEFg/AwskmILtUxwv_ER6hCBlDe1whwDjnCyrACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08032.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rotis, spinach saag, Dubka. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F5tX8bf1iaw/Wd5DwP5vahI/AAAAAAAAEF0/eeS4D2RXqZYF4p1H9N7DcAVRyt0Bgp8mgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F5tX8bf1iaw/Wd5DwP5vahI/AAAAAAAAEF0/eeS4D2RXqZYF4p1H9N7DcAVRyt0Bgp8mgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08035.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another fried rice called Bhumla with spinach saag and Dubka.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another very traditional dinner was a dish called Phonn which is made with buttermilk, mundva flour, rice, timur, bhaang seeds and a tadka of jimboo. This was served with Dubka, a dish made with butt daal, and a herb called gandhrayani.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xh9NV8fqvFg/Wd5D4Pl8sYI/AAAAAAAAEF8/cA0zLWExn-MofGp02_BxCJ4KKoAOxcdXQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xh9NV8fqvFg/Wd5D4Pl8sYI/AAAAAAAAEF8/cA0zLWExn-MofGp02_BxCJ4KKoAOxcdXQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07495.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Giant sized lemon trees. The Kumaonis pickle these lemons.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">See how big it is?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">For breakfast another day I was served a sweet pancake called âpuliâ made with wheat flour, sugar and milk. This was served with curd.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;"> </span><i><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2017/01/chasing-rhododendron-blooms-on.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like my post on the Rhododendron Trail</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></a></i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Mrt4LKxja4/Wd5EFlhNEBI/AAAAAAAAEGI/PHwV4k3iNxs12vTgjQ3RQq2q_ycXDkQGwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Mrt4LKxja4/Wd5EFlhNEBI/AAAAAAAAEGI/PHwV4k3iNxs12vTgjQ3RQq2q_ycXDkQGwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC07519.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I did a sketch of the rhododendron flowers.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YF3Fe8xaP8c/Wd5EEkU-RkI/AAAAAAAAEGE/PAsZNjVRu1UWnHqZit9cJTkpOmvW589wACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC07541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YF3Fe8xaP8c/Wd5EEkU-RkI/AAAAAAAAEGE/PAsZNjVRu1UWnHqZit9cJTkpOmvW589wACLcBGAs/s640/DSC07541.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A local woman Bina, making the rhododendron juice.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Five days was a short time indeed to experience Bhanu's hospitality. I have promised to go back and soak up more of the mountains, cuisine and peace. </span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-65492548686517708002017-10-09T03:28:00.000-07:002019-02-07T01:32:48.572-08:00Wild Vegetables Festival at Bhomale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BIE2CNI4IK0/WdsZoCnRF2I/AAAAAAAAD_w/rPOE-fP2fFsGmE0IvxRmmLa90LgmzuuiACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BIE2CNI4IK0/WdsZoCnRF2I/AAAAAAAAD_w/rPOE-fP2fFsGmE0IvxRmmLa90LgmzuuiACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08084.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The wild vegetables dishes beautifully arranged with flowers at Bhomale</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I read about the Wild Vegetables Festival in the newspaper.
It was organised by an NGO called Kalpvriksh, which I had heard about so I
knew it would be worthwhile. The festival was organised over three Sundays, one
of which I had already missed, the second was at Kharpud, where an estimated
500 people were to arrive. I decided to skip that. The third and the last was
to be at Bhomale, 93 kms away from Pune, the farthest of the three, so I knew
there wouldnât be much of a crowd.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7G-immsN9iE/WdsaXu3wcAI/AAAAAAAAD_4/P5Fu1nQ-dRcGe7XvP5rS_t0aOtRvLuRUwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7G-immsN9iE/WdsaXu3wcAI/AAAAAAAAD_4/P5Fu1nQ-dRcGe7XvP5rS_t0aOtRvLuRUwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08073.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Swayamvar Pure Veg. at Khed.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Since hiring a cab would have been too expensive for me
alone, I spread word about it asking if there are people who want to join me. I
promptly received confirmations and on 24<sup>th</sup> September at 7 a.m a
group of us 6 girls set out for Bhomale.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3jARNuP3PIc/WdsacAJKqwI/AAAAAAAAEAA/5QO9v6n2hiUoTg-nGIXL7eZUzDQnnddmgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3jARNuP3PIc/WdsacAJKqwI/AAAAAAAAEAA/5QO9v6n2hiUoTg-nGIXL7eZUzDQnnddmgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08074.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lovely scenery on the drive.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2019/02/cuisine-of-lepchas-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">You may like my blog post on Cuisine of the Lepchas in Dzongu</span>.</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZExHrfjpmc/Wdsab4ESXWI/AAAAAAAAD_8/zcf2yJnapDQmMCfS0NuIsTIFXJCkbcdSQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZExHrfjpmc/Wdsab4ESXWI/AAAAAAAAD_8/zcf2yJnapDQmMCfS0NuIsTIFXJCkbcdSQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08075.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> A lake that we passed.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">We stopped for breakfast at Swayamvar Pure Veg. Here's the location on </span><a href="https://www.google.co.in/maps/place/swayamvar+pure+veg+restaurants/@18.900337,73.854778,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xebc80ce5e6e4d77e!8m2!3d18.900337!4d73.854778" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Google maps</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. Itâs useful
mentioning these things in case there are others who want to stop. The toilets
were clean and the vada-pav was delicious J</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClqZkFy2pcA/WdssAquBcWI/AAAAAAAAEAQ/Jckb1u3iSM4is3wk7eNvW3J7xrStX_EFQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClqZkFy2pcA/WdssAquBcWI/AAAAAAAAEAQ/Jckb1u3iSM4is3wk7eNvW3J7xrStX_EFQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08077.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The gathering under the canopy of trees. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">At around 11.30 we reached Bhomale and were met with a sight
of all villagers assembled under a canopy of trees with their dishes arranged
beautifully with flowers. I met the coordinator from Kalpvriksh, Pradeep
Chavan, whom I had been in touch with and sat down for the event to begin.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bhomale, is a village with a population of around 150 in 35
houses. Many generations ago the tribal people of this place called Mahadev
Koli, were hunters and gatherers and practiced no agriculture. Now-a-days,
people have their kitchen garden where they grow vegetables like pumpkin and
ridge gourd. Outside of the forest limits, people have plots of lands where they grow finger millet, rice and barnyard millet. But I was told this is a more recent trend. People still gather from the forest
surrounding their village. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UVomug0AiCI/WdssgGORegI/AAAAAAAAEAY/GeD7rl2NhhUAtiuheFm29j8rgVHeBSGzwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UVomug0AiCI/WdssgGORegI/AAAAAAAAEAY/GeD7rl2NhhUAtiuheFm29j8rgVHeBSGzwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08087.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I asked this beautiful lady with the 'nath' (nose-ring) if I could take her picture. She promptly took the pallu over her head and posed :-)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">From the months from June to September, during
the Monsoon, is the peak time when the forest is bountiful with wild
vegetables, berries, nuts and roots. Bhomale sees heavy rainfall every year
(around 1000 mm), but that notwithstanding people venture into the forests to
gather food. Any excess produce is dried or cured and preserved for the other
months when forest supplies are scarce. Because of the climate, the wild
vegetation is also unique to the place. Of late, people have also started
buying cultivated vegetables and grains from the nearest shop which is a 30 kms
walk! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As is the custom traditionally In India, men and women were
seated separately for the event. I turned to observe the women seated beside me. It was a
special occasion for the village, since it was a Wild Vegetables Festival and
people like me from the cities were visiting. So they had worn their best
sarees, most draped in ânavvariâ style (ânavâ means nine), where the nine-yard
saree is draped like a dhoti on the lower part of the body. They had also worn
a nose ring very typically Maharashtrian, called the ânathâ. They all looked
beautiful J <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otRR5-O-Iqk/Wds5g21T82I/AAAAAAAAEBQ/-rHwgMkGnQY2c4ESzqK7tBwxhBbaDRDjwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otRR5-O-Iqk/Wds5g21T82I/AAAAAAAAEBQ/-rHwgMkGnQY2c4ESzqK7tBwxhBbaDRDjwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08096.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uDb_Mtw4-WI/Wds5g1wBCVI/AAAAAAAAEBM/c2Xsz00_hzYgEjUBj751yXkA5WajaMmjACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uDb_Mtw4-WI/Wds5g1wBCVI/AAAAAAAAEBM/c2Xsz00_hzYgEjUBj751yXkA5WajaMmjACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08105.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Women performing 'Aarti' to the food keeping with the Indian tradition of worshipping food as God. 'Annam Brahma'.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FPVVqrQtAho/Wds5geVkvJI/AAAAAAAAEBI/aG5Q1S2nBwYfsBBysunUUziarYoIWXzrwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FPVVqrQtAho/Wds5geVkvJI/AAAAAAAAEBI/aG5Q1S2nBwYfsBBysunUUziarYoIWXzrwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08106.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A welcome song by the children. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BEJe0d9pkuQ/Wds5h5bbSnI/AAAAAAAAEBU/J0ciZmEiercpROMDxKkDVHExAQu19ja6wCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BEJe0d9pkuQ/Wds5h5bbSnI/AAAAAAAAEBU/J0ciZmEiercpROMDxKkDVHExAQu19ja6wCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08109.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another song by a lady. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uj5iJ0kCQGA/Wds5ir90VoI/AAAAAAAAEBY/W0qzfTiatGkk0pOC5FVpNQIjnh5ed46qACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uj5iJ0kCQGA/Wds5ir90VoI/AAAAAAAAEBY/W0qzfTiatGkk0pOC5FVpNQIjnh5ed46qACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08110.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Forest official V.P. Kadam giving an inspirational speech. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Itâs needless to say that I had been eyeing the plates laden
with food since the time I arrived. So I took a few close up pictures and
enquired with the women as to what the vegetable were.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After some time, the main event started, with Chief guests,
speakers, welcome songs so on and so forth.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UTBq-xIE1_0/Wdstc-gNNvI/AAAAAAAAEAk/glVsCg4Bv2wzkhZYA3BDuILvU2Mtf6Q6wCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UTBq-xIE1_0/Wdstc-gNNvI/AAAAAAAAEAk/glVsCg4Bv2wzkhZYA3BDuILvU2Mtf6Q6wCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08082.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A dish prepared from the tender stem of sweet potato leaves. </span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EqPkRSYYjH4/WdstdUelhHI/AAAAAAAAEAs/dTxL12OPosEBLBbq6UYvziomc_USq3v3QCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EqPkRSYYjH4/WdstdUelhHI/AAAAAAAAEAs/dTxL12OPosEBLBbq6UYvziomc_USq3v3QCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08083.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A seed called 'Chahechabar'- aids in digestion. The spelling is phonetic. You can also the the fruit of the 'Chahechabar'.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2015/09/a-taste-of-paharihimachali-cuisine.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">You may like my blog post on Himachali/Pahari cuisine</span>.</a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jPxv1R1DhLs/Wdstdbvo1hI/AAAAAAAAEAo/o3rGkyb0s_oO8A_a32UvlYBpaKQBHGFJwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jPxv1R1DhLs/Wdstdbvo1hI/AAAAAAAAEAo/o3rGkyb0s_oO8A_a32UvlYBpaKQBHGFJwCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08088.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A variety of wild eggplants called 'Chichurde'. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCvOQGzIKRI/WdsteBzmWXI/AAAAAAAAEAw/3pWGmXIjRrkn8ub05pTuUIWup4SWYoasQCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCvOQGzIKRI/WdsteBzmWXI/AAAAAAAAEAw/3pWGmXIjRrkn8ub05pTuUIWup4SWYoasQCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08089.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The leafy vegetable is a dish made of drumstick leaves and to the left is a dish made of wild gooseberries. This was served with bhakris (flatbread) made of rice flour.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One of the forest officials, V.P. Kadam, gave a very
impressive talk on the bio-diversity of the place and the importance to
preserve the culinary heritage. Falling for false aspirationsâ, the village
people have stopped valuing the food which their communities have been eating
for ages and have started to increasingly buy common vegetables from the market
30 kms away. He said if the people donât uphold their culinary and food
heritage, it will be lost to the generations to come. He reinforced the
importance of being proud of what they have- something the city people envy-
clean air, proximity to the forests and food provided by the forests which is
completely devoid of chemicals or adulteration.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Since these are uncultivated foods, he also stressed that
people who want to sell the forest produce must be mindful of the way they
harvest, so as to leave the seeds and stalks for the produce the following
year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wzdt3Q6W4FE/Wdste3LoyOI/AAAAAAAAEA0/U_-UFIlZR0MrH0k4M2EOlQOZO01sy5ZrwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wzdt3Q6W4FE/Wdste3LoyOI/AAAAAAAAEA0/U_-UFIlZR0MrH0k4M2EOlQOZO01sy5ZrwCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08090.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Clockwise from Left: 'Kusraachi Bhaji', root vegetable called 'Tambooli' which stays good for 3 months and a dish made with wild gooseberries. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V_VF8p--_XA/WdstfrjY_qI/AAAAAAAAEA8/qLKLMM7U4nUd1OTuqEu5oevY2zalX5ArgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC08093-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V_VF8p--_XA/WdstfrjY_qI/AAAAAAAAEA8/qLKLMM7U4nUd1OTuqEu5oevY2zalX5ArgCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC08093-resized.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Dishes in the forefront: To the left is flatbread made of finger millet (ragi, nachni) with Garlic chutney and to the right is a dish called 'aloowadi' made with colocasia leaves. It's also called 'patra' in Gujarati and 'pathrode' in Himachal Pradesh.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2017/10/kumaoni-cuisine-gastronomical-delight.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">You may like my blog post on Kumaoni cuisine</span>.</a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ktn-kzUFULg/Wds8HbGIXNI/AAAAAAAAEBs/4UPYG3e54aQSgGYOJi2S_q4N5AQOvgEkACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ktn-kzUFULg/Wds8HbGIXNI/AAAAAAAAEBs/4UPYG3e54aQSgGYOJi2S_q4N5AQOvgEkACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08117.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Top: Finger millet flatbread and a dish made with drumstick leaves. Bottom is 'varai laddoo' a sweet prepared with barnyard millet.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BtyJ7xBhPqU/Wds8HbVheCI/AAAAAAAAEBo/MEhpW-En2k82-EACwQhXiFiYi9G-199EgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BtyJ7xBhPqU/Wds8HbVheCI/AAAAAAAAEBo/MEhpW-En2k82-EACwQhXiFiYi9G-199EgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08118.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A seed called 'Kombaale'. It had a bitter aftertaste and is believed to be good for diabetics. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tdYe5Z3nKMA/Wds8IEJgSsI/AAAAAAAAEBw/NHTBhT5ZXioI7ebdyCl7ea8WXHeWtzt5ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tdYe5Z3nKMA/Wds8IEJgSsI/AAAAAAAAEBw/NHTBhT5ZXioI7ebdyCl7ea8WXHeWtzt5ACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08124.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A spoonful of everything on my plate :-) </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After his talk as well as by some other people including
village people, we formed a queue to sample the food which was now moved to the
table. There were around 15 different kinds of dishes prepared by the women and
we were given samples of it on plates. The dishes tasted very unique and some
were hot on account of the chilli powder used liberally!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jN7RsOOKm48/Wds98i7PJCI/AAAAAAAAECE/bfR_x0lFeuEerdD3YqlqOa46C116h_4mACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jN7RsOOKm48/Wds98i7PJCI/AAAAAAAAECE/bfR_x0lFeuEerdD3YqlqOa46C116h_4mACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08113.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RXg3xAmjiD8/Wds98bmgxYI/AAAAAAAAEB8/7BhcWxs2i9YFT4XBZQG1nHEKemLUoAN5gCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RXg3xAmjiD8/Wds98bmgxYI/AAAAAAAAEB8/7BhcWxs2i9YFT4XBZQG1nHEKemLUoAN5gCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08114.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M4tvMYZm8M0/Wds98VG3RNI/AAAAAAAAECA/lbabNCEKt3IwrZZ-l2YsCwyAgsGooknSACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M4tvMYZm8M0/Wds98VG3RNI/AAAAAAAAECA/lbabNCEKt3IwrZZ-l2YsCwyAgsGooknSACLcBGAs/s640/DSC08126.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The 'Devraai' beyond the temple.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">After the sampling, we were invited for a proper lunch of
rice, daal and curry to another place. After the crowd left, I spent some time
sketching the dense green forest beyond the temple. The temple is of Lord
Bhairav, a form of Lord Shiva and women are not allowed to enter inside. Beyond
the forest is what is called âDevraaiâ in Marathi, meaning âgarden/orchard of
the Godsâ- âDevâ meaning God. Devrais are believed to be presided over by
forest deities and nymphs and no one can take away even a twig or a leaf from
the Devrai, leave alone cutting trees. Doing so would be a gross violation to
the forest deity and would invoke their wrath which is not a good idea
since these people subsist on the forest surrounding it. This belief has
ensured the survival of these forest pockets which have been around for
thousands of years and has survived the greed of land sharks. As outsiders, we
were instructed to not even go near it. I wanted to do some sketching of the
Devrai so I chose a spot near the temple for a better view and I was asked to
move farther away.</span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">I was inspired to draw the Forest Nymph after visiting Bhomale, so here's my illustration posted on my</span> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PurpleSoulArt/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Art page, Purple Soul. </span></a></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zEtPjSmH6nY/WdtOZGLx1vI/AAAAAAAAEC8/RUok0Lj5obob6BAzV3M6nd8u61T_e66lwCLcBGAs/s1600/Forest%2BNymph%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="977" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zEtPjSmH6nY/WdtOZGLx1vI/AAAAAAAAEC8/RUok0Lj5obob6BAzV3M6nd8u61T_e66lwCLcBGAs/s640/Forest%2BNymph%2Bcopy.jpg" width="490" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; line-height: 107%;"><span class="textexposedshow"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wvSOZdDtxjY/Wds_Vcd5ceI/AAAAAAAAECQ/f5SfurAmUGs5lEXnZwhJezpiLL6YSjRXwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wvSOZdDtxjY/Wds_Vcd5ceI/AAAAAAAAECQ/f5SfurAmUGs5lEXnZwhJezpiLL6YSjRXwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08129.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A glimpse of the village.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YEFx2Pnsj7I/Wds_Vp18ATI/AAAAAAAAECU/jU3G_YBA1wsidi7Sw7GFRQRk8eHVIPDdQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YEFx2Pnsj7I/Wds_Vp18ATI/AAAAAAAAECU/jU3G_YBA1wsidi7Sw7GFRQRk8eHVIPDdQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08132.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">People gathered for lunch in the village school. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tB8We6adD5o/Wds_V9pnMyI/AAAAAAAAECY/eBYjZZMruOEcGbA4Us9AyQ03tVj7zJ-ygCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tB8We6adD5o/Wds_V9pnMyI/AAAAAAAAECY/eBYjZZMruOEcGbA4Us9AyQ03tVj7zJ-ygCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08137.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The 'normal' lunch!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I did a quick sketch and soaked up the green view as much as the time
constraint would permit and joined the rest of the group for a meal of rice,
daal and dried peas curry. Most of the people were almost finishing so I joined
the forest officials. The women had reserved some extra portions of the wild
vegetables for the forest officials and since I was seated with them I got a
second generous helping of those.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OSZsh6Mj-H0/WdtDW3UI1-I/AAAAAAAAECk/5e7C-x4HTO4ua8NyCbxlEKdWiW3VLlGLwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OSZsh6Mj-H0/WdtDW3UI1-I/AAAAAAAAECk/5e7C-x4HTO4ua8NyCbxlEKdWiW3VLlGLwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08143.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A group picture with the women of Bhomale. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After lunch, we visited the home of one of the women where I asked to
see the uncooked wild vegetables. They said that all that they gather is eaten
the same day, excepting the ones that are dried and cured. They showed me a few
of those. I hope to go some day with them to gather food and document that too.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RJZGfMAP_ak/WdtDf7Kkx4I/AAAAAAAAECo/jChId7_KF9g3HioiVhRVfjyp71OCSHJAQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RJZGfMAP_ak/WdtDf7Kkx4I/AAAAAAAAECo/jChId7_KF9g3HioiVhRVfjyp71OCSHJAQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC08153.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Barnyard Millet also called 'varai' in Marathi.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7jIy4xMW1g8/WdtDf2LldLI/AAAAAAAAECs/yet5M8LZbDkrRMexrOXYMHiiz15HvdkGgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC08154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7jIy4xMW1g8/WdtDf2LldLI/AAAAAAAAECs/yet5M8LZbDkrRMexrOXYMHiiz15HvdkGgCLcBGAs/s400/DSC08154.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Finger millet. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I bought some finger millet and barnyard millet from them which are completely organic in the truest sense. And came back home with a refreshed mind and heart and belly :-) </span></span><br />
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-81669059897770147002017-09-05T03:54:00.001-07:002020-09-02T23:38:33.986-07:00The Weavers of Ilkal Saree<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Look at the pictures here: </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jqfZ-r0E_Jk/Wa5tXN50SCI/AAAAAAAAD50/KexajPeYOEQY4Ue6PPCGCDh30PHQlNMLgCLcBGAs/s1600/Dr%2BRushkila-compressed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jqfZ-r0E_Jk/Wa5tXN50SCI/AAAAAAAAD50/KexajPeYOEQY4Ue6PPCGCDh30PHQlNMLgCLcBGAs/s640/Dr%2BRushkila-compressed.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Photo taken from</span><a href="http://www.thenewsminute.com/article/not-just-kancheepuram-silk-magic-loom-and-south-indias-unique-weaves-56732" target="_blank"> <span style="color: red;">here.</span></a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EMNDuGwdyaU/Wa5tW1OCq3I/AAAAAAAAD5w/co8HaPOLPDs6wHf8PQORiabjR7YFXTKsgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1441_grande.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EMNDuGwdyaU/Wa5tW1OCq3I/AAAAAAAAD5w/co8HaPOLPDs6wHf8PQORiabjR7YFXTKsgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1441_grande.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Photo taken from</span><a href="https://thechalkboutique.com/products/ilkal-saree-in-cotton-silk-code-rk-il-3" target="_blank"> <span style="color: red;">here.</span></a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vNP7MoPCF3s/Wa5tgqR8cCI/AAAAAAAAD54/MlK9W2agsQk6oOAUOAWareLcCXhiH6afwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06445.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vNP7MoPCF3s/Wa5tgqR8cCI/AAAAAAAAD54/MlK9W2agsQk6oOAUOAWareLcCXhiH6afwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06445.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A lady draped in Ilkal whom we saw at the Badami temple complex. She gladly agreed to pose for a photo. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q8OYgE5jF5s/Wa5tg9PFcTI/AAAAAAAAD58/SBraBiQQW5EMsq2xaq8juKRIxW2TYr8awCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06812.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q8OYgE5jF5s/Wa5tg9PFcTI/AAAAAAAAD58/SBraBiQQW5EMsq2xaq8juKRIxW2TYr8awCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06812.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One of the many Ilkal sightings in Badami. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">What do you see in common? Flaming
red pallus. These pallus are most synonymous with women living in rural
Maharashtra and North Karnataka now, although in earlier days that is what
women mostly wore on a daily basis throughout the state. If you do not already
know the name of this saree, itâs called Ilkal (pronounced âIrkalâ). And Ilkal is back is fashion as is evident from the first two photos. :-) </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">On my trip to Guledgudda last year, to meet the </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/12/in-search-of-weavers-of-khun.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">weavers of Khun</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, we also met Ilkal weavers. There is an eponymous village called Ilkal too, near Badami which obviously is known for its sarees. But we met the Ilkal
weavers in Guledgudda and another village nearby called Kamatagi, where we
visited the Hotti brothers of the Chamundeswari Handloom Weavers Association
which specialises in weaving Ilkal sarees. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">So, let me straight away get to the details :-)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/12/in-search-of-weavers-of-khun.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">We first met Sampath Rathi, who is a wholesaler of Khun and Ilkal</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. He explained the different varieties of Ilkal. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">What sets Ilkals apart is the pallu- mostly in flaming red,
although now they come in several other colours. The technique of the weaving
the pallu with the body of the saree is called topi-teni. The pallu is woven
separately and was always made of pure silk (even if the remaining saree was a
blend of cotton and silk) and is then attached to the body of the saree. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Ilkals come in plain as well as chequered. Even for the
chequered ones, depending on the size of the checks there are different names
assigned. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><i><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/12/in-search-of-weavers-of-khun.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may also like to read my post on Khun weavers</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></i><span style="color: red;"><i></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JtHLpy0pjBQ/Wa5u-SGjAUI/AAAAAAAAD6I/geZ8kevYza4UYV6JKbS5acrXe_fE0kfkwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06458.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JtHLpy0pjBQ/Wa5u-SGjAUI/AAAAAAAAD6I/geZ8kevYza4UYV6JKbS5acrXe_fE0kfkwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06458.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This saree with the smallest checks is called 'kondi-chikki' and this is the 'gomi' design on the border.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oTZ5vc2Lu10/Wa5u_hCqS-I/AAAAAAAAD6Q/l1xEZ3EyfyoGlx1W9lqLjn8jgKt_AYxLwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06461.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oTZ5vc2Lu10/Wa5u_hCqS-I/AAAAAAAAD6Q/l1xEZ3EyfyoGlx1W9lqLjn8jgKt_AYxLwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06461.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">These medium sized checks are called 'ragaavali' and the border is called 'chikki paras'.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2UZorhK7a2w/Wa5u_o9VugI/AAAAAAAAD6M/pHWArSsyfGoX0hVBoZ2jtZKjTQcUEXdIwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06462.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2UZorhK7a2w/Wa5u_o9VugI/AAAAAAAAD6M/pHWArSsyfGoX0hVBoZ2jtZKjTQcUEXdIwCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06462.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Here the checks are called 'puthadi' with the lines close to each other, and the border is a zari one. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--9lEdJPIOqk/Wa5vCKTUaCI/AAAAAAAAD6U/CcYgg18IWjEAiN1cuKlYgOA6A6AVy_uAgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06464.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--9lEdJPIOqk/Wa5vCKTUaCI/AAAAAAAAD6U/CcYgg18IWjEAiN1cuKlYgOA6A6AVy_uAgCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06464.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Close up of the 'gomi' border. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxzKbCOf-E0/Wa5vFE5x0gI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/5Sl9y5SCE-kDj32GvRyIrRsPavDoNo97QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06466.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxzKbCOf-E0/Wa5vFE5x0gI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/5Sl9y5SCE-kDj32GvRyIrRsPavDoNo97QCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06466.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Notice the patterns formed where the pallu is attached to the body- Topi-teni. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RGN7oP1mbuU/Wa5vFVExXlI/AAAAAAAAD6c/gy5qnrKc8hw7ZUdjXs__fRWmAF5YMeDaACLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06467.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RGN7oP1mbuU/Wa5vFVExXlI/AAAAAAAAD6c/gy5qnrKc8hw7ZUdjXs__fRWmAF5YMeDaACLcBGAs/s640/DSC06467.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The checks in this saree are called 'sherting' with the chequered squares in another colour.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">At the Chamundeswari Handloom Weavers Association in nearby Kamatagi, P.L. Hotti, one of the Hotti brothers, also a weaver, took us around and we could see the weavers working on the Ilkal. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AVP8idtUGcw/Wa5zTWCrDwI/AAAAAAAAD6o/ST31VnqTFbUHHC0RD-StkSNvz-xLc5O1gCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06619.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AVP8idtUGcw/Wa5zTWCrDwI/AAAAAAAAD6o/ST31VnqTFbUHHC0RD-StkSNvz-xLc5O1gCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06619.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The topi-teni technique in progress. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We literally feasted our eyes on the varieties of Ilkal they had. Unlike most other places that make Ilkal, this association makes Ilkal in pure cotton. The others are usually a mix of cotton and silk. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Can't have enough of the pallu :-) </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5N-RFxJE4kE/Wa53RYdgypI/AAAAAAAAD7A/Pl-AYjt06V0uDpoEoDw0Z-GR8YOmnO5JQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06605.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5N-RFxJE4kE/Wa53RYdgypI/AAAAAAAAD7A/Pl-AYjt06V0uDpoEoDw0Z-GR8YOmnO5JQCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06605.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I wanted to buy everything I saw. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While we are talking to P.L.Hotti and seeing the variety of Ilkal sarees, two men came in and handed over two dupattas to Hotti. He introduced the two men as weavers, Dashrath and Vitthal Hotti, and the dupattas they got were fresh from the loom </span></span><span class="_47e3 _5mfr" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 0; margin: 0px 1px; vertical-align: middle;" title="smile emoticon"><img alt="" class="img" height="16" role="presentation" src="https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/f4c/1/16/1f642.png" style="border: 0px; vertical-align: -3px;" width="16" /><span aria-hidden="true" class="_7oe" style="display: inline-block; width: 0px;">:-)</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> I jumped in excitement and immediately bought a dupatta and also posed with them. Ah! the joy of buying a piece of fabric directly from the weaver and also having a photo with them </span><span class="_47e3 _5mfr" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 0; margin: 0px 1px; vertical-align: middle;" title="smile emoticon"><img alt="" class="img" height="16" role="presentation" src="https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/f4c/1/16/1f642.png" style="border: 0px; vertical-align: -3px;" width="16" /><span aria-hidden="true" class="_7oe" style="display: inline-block; width: 0px;">:-)</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> They were so humble and down-to-earth.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> And I felt so honoured buying from them </span><span class="_47e3 _5mfr" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 0; margin: 0px 1px; vertical-align: middle;" title="smile emoticon"><img alt="" class="img" height="16" role="presentation" src="https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/f4c/1/16/1f642.png" style="border: 0px; vertical-align: -3px;" width="16" /><span aria-hidden="true" class="_7oe" style="display: inline-block; width: 0px;">:-)</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> The dupatta I bought (in the picture) was woven by Dashrath, standing to my right.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">With a freshly woven dupatta made by Vitthal and Dashrath Hotti. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Hotti brothers had collaborated some time ago with the weavers in </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/08/journey-of-handwoven-piece-of-fabric.html" style="background-color: white; font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; font-size: x-large;" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Bhujodi</span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> to exchanges ideas and techniques in weaving. The result of this is a range of pure cotton Ilkal sarees, even the pallu (which is a departure from tradition as the pallu is always in silk). </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The soft spoken P.L. Hotti talking about the collaboration with the Bhujodi weavers. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z6KuX_LNH8M/Wa6ACKHGbBI/AAAAAAAAD7c/1-CCiWXmtRMu88XJckyyYHZ6JrNsMio7QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC06587.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z6KuX_LNH8M/Wa6ACKHGbBI/AAAAAAAAD7c/1-CCiWXmtRMu88XJckyyYHZ6JrNsMio7QCLcBGAs/s640/DSC06587.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The fruit of the collaboration :-) </span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If you want to contact the Hotti brothers, here are the contact numbers. : </span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> 9008621276 or 8867707273. We visited Guledgudda and Kamatagi on the same day. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I was inspired to illustrate my own version of one of Jamini Roy's paintings to represent Maharashtrian women in Ilkal and Khun with the crescent moon bindi and 'nath' :-) Here it is. <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PurpleSoulArt/" style="color: #7771bf; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may visit my art page, Purple Soul</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></a></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I am taking orders for prints of this work. Please contact me on priya@purplesoul.org for the same. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UmNP-dgJ4Og/WkyUOUFsG2I/AAAAAAAAEPc/cnnloGCKbyEeYxW6YZ8UQ3yJfq5O5avHwCLcBGAs/s1600/Ilkal%2BKhun%2BJamini%2BRoy%2Bsign%2Bcopy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="948" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UmNP-dgJ4Og/WkyUOUFsG2I/AAAAAAAAEPc/cnnloGCKbyEeYxW6YZ8UQ3yJfq5O5avHwCLcBGAs/s640/Ilkal%2BKhun%2BJamini%2BRoy%2Bsign%2Bcopy.jpg" width="540" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My version of Jamini Roy's women in Khun and Ilkal.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I've been seeing a lot more urban women too wearing Ilkal these days. Clearly, it's a revival of the saree which was some time ago relegated to the rural areas. A lovely lady designer in Chennai, who is now a friend, who stumbled upon my blog while searching for Khun weavers has launched an entire collection of apparel made of Khun and Ilkal. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I now have three Ilkal sarees in my collection and will post a picture soon in those. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I hope to discover more such hidden textile treasures in India :-) </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">Also follow my posts on </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Facebook</span></a> </span><span style="color: #444444;">or</span><span style="color: red;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/purplesoulart/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Instagram</span></a></span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-92170272185596767862017-02-17T03:53:00.001-08:002022-05-09T04:45:39.370-07:00Retracing the Path of Nomadic Shepherds in Kalap. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xkPLhP0m3bE/WKbZCfxdMvI/AAAAAAAADo0/6IVDiqE7oAUIK_Zx8uhs4ppXyT6-EdW8gCEw/s1600/DSC04997.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xkPLhP0m3bE/WKbZCfxdMvI/AAAAAAAADo0/6IVDiqE7oAUIK_Zx8uhs4ppXyT6-EdW8gCEw/s640/DSC04997.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The gorgeous sunset at Beejay Top. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">It was sometime in 2014 that I stumbled upon the </span><a href="https://www.kalap.in/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kalap website</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. It said, âUntouched Garhwalâ. Before browsing further through the
website, I instantly made up my mind that I would visit this untouched
beautiful place sometime. But something or the other came up and I couldnât
until June 2016. You may call in serendipity, but Anand Sankar, the man behind
Kalap, had posted on one of the Facebook groups asking if there were any women
trekkers and bloggers who would be interested in joining the Nomadâs trail. Incidentally,
that was the very trail that had caught my attention on the website. Iâm not
sure if he heard, but I almost screamed âyesâ in my reply to him. Flights and
buses booked, in a weekâs time, I found myself in Dehradun which was the
meeting point for your journey.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Anand, a tall man, with a straight face and gamcha wound
around his neck picked me from where I was staying. I would discover later that
behind the straight face is a super witty and funny bone that would have us all
cracking up with laughter at almost everything he uttered! I found myself with
4 other girls and a gentleman from the Army. We drove for around 9 hours and
200 kms and reached Sankhri, a small town and base for many treks, from where
we would start the trek to Kalap, the village. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SKDM4DsOBuA/WKbTMJaGJgI/AAAAAAAADjQ/24gzqvQFHlQq6VkFXwNoH4OZhMQnvR4iACLcB/s1600/DSC04973.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SKDM4DsOBuA/WKbTMJaGJgI/AAAAAAAADjQ/24gzqvQFHlQq6VkFXwNoH4OZhMQnvR4iACLcB/s640/DSC04973.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We stopped by this pine forest on the way to Sankhri.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">In Sankhri, we had our dinner and breakfast at this amazing
home stay of Balbir Rawat. His wife Kalma whipped up some sumptuous local
delicacies out of local fern, rajma (kidney beans) and rotis (flat bread).
Everything was extremely flavorful. We also saw him make plum juice. They also
make and sell jams and pickles. Sadly, I did not buy since I didnât want to
carry excess baggage on the trek. They are also on </span><a href="https://www.airbnb.co.in/rooms/5993171" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Airbnb</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, if anyone is
interested.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AxwvgZInZYo/WKbTWdREqII/AAAAAAAADjU/dfvcyiu8OQQxUzJcH0VitrUP-XD0faQ6ACLcB/s1600/DSC04980.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AxwvgZInZYo/WKbTWdREqII/AAAAAAAADjU/dfvcyiu8OQQxUzJcH0VitrUP-XD0faQ6ACLcB/s640/DSC04980.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Balbir Rawat making fresh plum juice. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-guamsoVAbkw/WKbTWW7qwMI/AAAAAAAADjc/zwwpqAMraPYLl15iahAwfD7E2yuejFmMwCLcB/s1600/DSC04981.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-guamsoVAbkw/WKbTWW7qwMI/AAAAAAAADjc/zwwpqAMraPYLl15iahAwfD7E2yuejFmMwCLcB/s640/DSC04981.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The Himalayan home-stay is on </span><a href="https://www.airbnb.co.in/rooms/5993171" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">airbnb</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-alqulUkawS8/WKbTWSTGXpI/AAAAAAAADjY/M_haWttPo1cbltUrFLq2c01XLT3c0s3IACLcB/s1600/DSC04985.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-alqulUkawS8/WKbTWSTGXpI/AAAAAAAADjY/M_haWttPo1cbltUrFLq2c01XLT3c0s3IACLcB/s640/DSC04985.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Delicious food made with fresh produce. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Now, the trail we were doing was a </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/VisitKalap/photos/pb.195506087270740.-2207520000.1487332267./753415131479830/?type=3&theater" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">The Nomadâs trail</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, which
meant we would be following the path of the nomadic shepherds who along with
their flock of sheep move from one pasture to another. Only that the path from
one pasture to another passes through untouched forests, gurgling streams with
the sweetest water, quaint villages frozen in time, alpine pastures carpeted
with flowers and the most gorgeous sunrises and sunsets.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bDVprO0YT20/WKbThGguOdI/AAAAAAAADjo/a0Jw75uiDZc02yHbNIWsUcYqfcqAiDDbgCLcB/s1600/DSC04991.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bDVprO0YT20/WKbThGguOdI/AAAAAAAADjo/a0Jw75uiDZc02yHbNIWsUcYqfcqAiDDbgCLcB/s640/DSC04991.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The rickety bridge over the roaring river. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WJYt2KGCBqg/WKbTg1FS8wI/AAAAAAAADjk/mX2zfaNd-20w2NROWrGjE-NwsHnUagOMwCLcB/s1600/DSC05002.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WJYt2KGCBqg/WKbTg1FS8wI/AAAAAAAADjk/mX2zfaNd-20w2NROWrGjE-NwsHnUagOMwCLcB/s640/DSC05002.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We stopped at this house to rest in the afternoon, in Dhawla. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">While commercial trekking places frequented by trekkers and
tourists have well marked paths which offer beautiful views, what struck me
from the very beginning of this trek was that the sanctity of Nature and the
trekking route had been maintained. Perhaps this has to do with the fact that
Kalap had been socially isolated till as recent as 2013 and few people know
about its existence. I had written an article for </span><a href="http://www.thebetterindia.com/61108/kalap-trust-anand-sankar-garhwal-uttarakhand/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">The Better India</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> about the
initiatives Anand has introduced in Kalap, which you may read on this </span><a href="http://www.thebetterindia.com/61108/kalap-trust-anand-sankar-garhwal-uttarakhand/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">link</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. The
people of Kalap also consider themselves as the descendants of the Kauravas
from the Hindu epic Mahabharata.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;"><i>You may like my blog post on the <a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/the-secret-life-of-shamans-in-dzongu.html" target="_blank">'The Secret Life of the Shamans'</a> in Dzongu.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ry0pLGs3OPw/WKbTn3sqxfI/AAAAAAAADjs/t_RHYI9NqnEPcfZMrzc8UQ42qTzmSqGPACLcB/s1600/DSC05007.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ry0pLGs3OPw/WKbTn3sqxfI/AAAAAAAADjs/t_RHYI9NqnEPcfZMrzc8UQ42qTzmSqGPACLcB/s640/DSC05007.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We climbed well above to see the same river snaking across the mountain. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The views were splendid throughout, including crossing a
roaring river on a rickety bridge. Come Monsoon, and the bridge gets washed
away only to be built again in winter. Around noon time, we reached Dhawla, at
4500 feet above sea level, which is where the Kalap story began. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g5yiluQ07wc/WKbTxGbyIeI/AAAAAAAADj4/D1-nb8xEeeEg49_97P8yXQPcMvOsG2e7wCLcB/s1600/DSC05012.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g5yiluQ07wc/WKbTxGbyIeI/AAAAAAAADj4/D1-nb8xEeeEg49_97P8yXQPcMvOsG2e7wCLcB/s640/DSC05012.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">First view of Kalap. </span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W65YLFIWAC0/WKbTxORXdJI/AAAAAAAADj0/7VWlJcKl-0km6BOPJHeW-8CmmyulV7gGwCLcB/s1600/DSC05016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W65YLFIWAC0/WKbTxORXdJI/AAAAAAAADj0/7VWlJcKl-0km6BOPJHeW-8CmmyulV7gGwCLcB/s640/DSC05016.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Around two decades ago, a lady along with her three children left the drudgery of the city and arrived in Kalap to be closer to Nature and lead a different way of life. She and her children built the house on their own, set up solar power and got educated by Nature herself. Call it providence that Anand bumped into one of the children, Naren (now an adult) in 2008, who took Anand to Kalap. Anand fell in love with the place and the people and realising how isolated the community was and sensing a potential, decided to build a model of responsible tourism around it. The house has been empty since the lady and her children moved back to the city in 2002, after living there for 15 years, after the collapse of the only bridge across the river that gave them access to a road on the other side. It was nice to visit the house and hear the story.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gsBUFvd2jKY/WKbT7MUIdgI/AAAAAAAADj8/F_YVwz3MXVQA3DR6p6Ku_Aua9-B7xI0ngCLcB/s1600/DSC05018.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gsBUFvd2jKY/WKbT7MUIdgI/AAAAAAAADj8/F_YVwz3MXVQA3DR6p6Ku_Aua9-B7xI0ngCLcB/s640/DSC05018.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Hearty meal for dinner. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BF9OyBrYu4o/WKbT7a4UVgI/AAAAAAAADkA/xqhwiBr5pR4u2Cp_ejDmiYmAY1NdT-o9ACLcB/s1600/DSC05037.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BF9OyBrYu4o/WKbT7a4UVgI/AAAAAAAADkA/xqhwiBr5pR4u2Cp_ejDmiYmAY1NdT-o9ACLcB/s640/DSC05037.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">People busy ploughing the fields. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We rested for a while to escape the scorching sun and started the trek again. By evening as we approached Kalap, at 7800 feet above sea level, little children from the village who had spotted us from a distance, gathered to welcome us. As soon as the entered the village, a de ja vu feeling set on me. Thatâs because I had visited the Kalap website so many times and admired those wooden houses, and now, I was seeing them for real. The total area of the Kalap gram panchayat is 14 kms from end to end and the population is around 500. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b5_H7XAbtJI/WKbUEDJszAI/AAAAAAAADkI/BInCOnZzDdYDv4auSn-yOWySsuPc2jFdQCLcB/s1600/DSC05041.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b5_H7XAbtJI/WKbUEDJszAI/AAAAAAAADkI/BInCOnZzDdYDv4auSn-yOWySsuPc2jFdQCLcB/s640/DSC05041.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rajmohan's wife in the kitchen. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XSV_BTxo2j8/WKbUEO2-7lI/AAAAAAAADkM/PhEds2DFcMwPyNnyUsakqOVx_U9xd5q1wCLcB/s1600/DSC05043.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XSV_BTxo2j8/WKbUEO2-7lI/AAAAAAAADkM/PhEds2DFcMwPyNnyUsakqOVx_U9xd5q1wCLcB/s640/DSC05043.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rajmohan's grand father who is 103 years old and fit enough to do his own work and walk long distances. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Iâve visited many villages and have been disappointed to see old structures being torn down to make âmodernâ homes, completely stripped of traditional architecture which lends a unique beauty. Traditionally, homes in rural India always have earthy colours, because they are made of natural materials. And this is what has been retained in Kalap. All the houses are made of wood, there is no littering and it is really like being transported back in time.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hXZSHo_J2kI/WKbUO8Vqo3I/AAAAAAAADkY/5gJoJHHCBakO4zKHAGyz6tktcKiqTvqrACLcB/s1600/DSC05057.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hXZSHo_J2kI/WKbUO8Vqo3I/AAAAAAAADkY/5gJoJHHCBakO4zKHAGyz6tktcKiqTvqrACLcB/s640/DSC05057.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Trekking through the forest. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1k3NeQH1uKA/WKbUNo8AEmI/AAAAAAAADkQ/lsDcoJSZEwgIy6-dVbK6_A9qQWpacwn8gCLcB/s1600/DSC05068.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1k3NeQH1uKA/WKbUNo8AEmI/AAAAAAAADkQ/lsDcoJSZEwgIy6-dVbK6_A9qQWpacwn8gCLcB/s640/DSC05068.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Karba settlement from a distance. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We were put up in the house of Rajmohan Singh, one of the three permanent staff of Kalap Eco-tourism. The house was abuzz with activity as curious kids flitted in and out, women scurried about, cooking and making arrangements for us, a teacher with Kalap Trust, Ashwini, busy with her lesson plans while we sat for a while, resting our limbs and agog to explore the beauty of the place.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After a much need high carb dinner of rice, rajma and rotis, we retired for the day. </span></div>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">Have you read my blog post on </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.com/2018/12/birding-paradise-in-sarmoli.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Birdwatching in Sarmoli</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">?</span></i></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7SlBt7gc2Hk/WKbUauvPRqI/AAAAAAAADkc/sseFOHwMyeIenu9BsvsaTMkfddQ1TcBDQCLcB/s1600/DSC05080.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7SlBt7gc2Hk/WKbUauvPRqI/AAAAAAAADkc/sseFOHwMyeIenu9BsvsaTMkfddQ1TcBDQCLcB/s640/DSC05080.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The sun streaming through emerald greens. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z-tvbFwzqKE/WKbUapYZrLI/AAAAAAAADkg/-SGwrSyr_U0jwYd_fpq9nHx2ZGL4hx96ACLcB/s1600/DSC05088.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z-tvbFwzqKE/WKbUapYZrLI/AAAAAAAADkg/-SGwrSyr_U0jwYd_fpq9nHx2ZGL4hx96ACLcB/s640/DSC05088.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Gurgling streams quenched our thirst all along the way. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Next morning was the time to explore the village. Come sunrise, and people were busy ploughing the fields, women carrying hay or wood on their heads, children running around, cows being led to graze elsewhere, the younger lambs and calves looking irresistibly cute and chewing away continuously at grass, and the clouds shifting shapes in the porcelain blue skies. Unlike most other villages, there are no chicken, roosters and hens running around. The entire village has adopted vegetarianism and follow the teachings of Radha Saomi. It is still one of the few villages where the barter system exists successfully and the village is self-sufficient.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">At Bangla bugyal. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7KPhAlnsN2g/WKbUxpjxiPI/AAAAAAAADk0/G3wqk0IKPRU33oxKpXvMf6w0Zox79vM-ACLcB/s1600/DSC05115.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7KPhAlnsN2g/WKbUxpjxiPI/AAAAAAAADk0/G3wqk0IKPRU33oxKpXvMf6w0Zox79vM-ACLcB/s640/DSC05115.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Eating bhel-puri after trekking in such picturesque surroundings was a great idea. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After breakfast we set off for our next stop, Bangla Bugyal (bugyals are meadows) at the height of 9,500 feet above sea level. We crossed another settlement of the Kalap village called Karba, at 8,500 feet above sea level. The views, needless to say, were splendid. We crossed many streams, each stream offering water which tasted a bit different, owing to the minerals and stones and rocks, that it flowed over. I savoured every drop of water from every stream, knowing that it may be the freshest possible water that Iâll ever get, untouched by humans, purified by the natural elements and which may have been partaken of by wild animals :-)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The full moon at Bangla bugyal. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Dew drops on my tent. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We crossed pastures, saw shepherds with their flock of sheep, met fluffy mountain dogs, listened to the winds whistling through tall pine and oak trees. Finally we reached the sprawling Bangla Bugyal and set up our tents. Morning was invariably splendid, as in any camping site. The sun teasing the clouds, birds chirping away, as I sipped hot tea and observed dew drops settled over our tents and leaves.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Chole and rice for breakfast. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Breakfast done, our trek this day, took us through some unmarked trails, unlike the previous days where there was some semblance of a trail. But Anand, knowing the area like the back of his hand, guided us, as we made some steep ascents, puffing and panting and hoping that we donât slip over and fall! This was a bit challenging as it rained hard, (and boy, the heavens open up when it rains in the mountains), the temperature plummeted, as we staggered, trembling and stiff with the cold, to Beejay Top, the highest point in Kalap at 12,500 feet above sea level. The staff struggled against the strong wind to erect a tent to shelter us from the rain and gust, as we sat huddled in a circle.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4R2JF3GFK0U/WKbVYpv6dZI/AAAAAAAADlc/hwnpP63bQIAW0yv1S6nPdKb2dPEFtSw-ACLcB/s1600/DSC05164.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4R2JF3GFK0U/WKbVYpv6dZI/AAAAAAAADlc/hwnpP63bQIAW0yv1S6nPdKb2dPEFtSw-ACLcB/s640/DSC05164.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A meadow we crossed was strewn with wild walnuts. The fragrance was aromatic, similar to spices used in pulav or biryani. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Cobra lilies. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9X8OuaXduLA/WKbVYo1EDUI/AAAAAAAADlg/tcarCyUrxik5Q0GKe7VScfJ3QldKJkdkACLcB/s1600/DSC05183.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9X8OuaXduLA/WKbVYo1EDUI/AAAAAAAADlg/tcarCyUrxik5Q0GKe7VScfJ3QldKJkdkACLcB/s640/DSC05183.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Catching my breath! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Small sized strawberry like berries dotted the forest floor. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After what seemed like an eternity, when the rains and wind retreated, what unveiled itself in the sky, left all of us speechless. The setting sun lit up the clouds till they looked like giant floating lanterns, silhouetting the mountains to produce a sight that landscape artists would dream about. And that wasnât all. There came three shepherds with their flock of sheep and goats adding more texture to the experience. As I went on my knees to take pictures of the flock, some looked right into my camera, as if posing. I even held a black lamb which was a cuddly big ball of wool and didnât want to let it go!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We felt adequately compensated for the strenuous trek with all this beauty. After a hearty meal of khichdi with dollops of ghee, and admiring the night sky as much as my still shivering body could permit, I retired for the night.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A shepherd paused to pose. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gOzqbPAwzzw/WKbVr6a2KyI/AAAAAAAADmA/SMWON_8S2ZIxokuW87yVUxY1jmo_hDk8ACLcB/s1600/DSC05226.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gOzqbPAwzzw/WKbVr6a2KyI/AAAAAAAADmA/SMWON_8S2ZIxokuW87yVUxY1jmo_hDk8ACLcB/s640/DSC05226.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The best sunset in my life till date. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The following day, I will remember for a long time to come. We camped on the meadow the whole day, and I spent the whole day lazying around on a carpet of flowers, with butterflies and bees prancing and humming around me, sipping tea, reading a book and napping, only to wake up for food and to the sound of buffaloes and sheep chewing grass nearby. A Gujjar (nomadic shepherd) had stopped by with his herd of buffaloes. While the buffaloes stared at me lying flat on the grass, wondering if I was a new variety of grass, I chatted up with the Gujjar. Since itâs a remote area, leopards and bears still thrive around. He told me that once he had fought off a leopard trying to attack his sheep. He sustained severe injuries and had to be hospitalized for a month. He showed me the marks, the leopard had left with its teeth, adding that his right hand nerves havenât fully recovered from the attack.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Flocks of sheep on the other hill top. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2lsnBOwfC_M/WKbV8UQj5FI/AAAAAAAADmQ/kxvOebcwxJwAaFhlLOvJWAlF4zXmf7OJQCLcB/s1600/DSC05244.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2lsnBOwfC_M/WKbV8UQj5FI/AAAAAAAADmQ/kxvOebcwxJwAaFhlLOvJWAlF4zXmf7OJQCLcB/s640/DSC05244.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A distant shot. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--TfyDbyl3GU/WKbZJMlHP4I/AAAAAAAADo4/kxvcjTJwbQ46VKCJS0jdxuPUPR12x8SXACLcB/s1600/13483171_634785453342799_5730177592963432102_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--TfyDbyl3GU/WKbZJMlHP4I/AAAAAAAADo4/kxvcjTJwbQ46VKCJS0jdxuPUPR12x8SXACLcB/s640/13483171_634785453342799_5730177592963432102_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Such a blissful day it was on the meadow! Photo by Anand Sankar.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sh7upv4NT30/WKbV8Zb_bUI/AAAAAAAADmM/AfxgFy5GD-c4u8yMkCJU3mNAHeyu3XD1wCLcB/s1600/DSC05268.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sh7upv4NT30/WKbV8Zb_bUI/AAAAAAAADmM/AfxgFy5GD-c4u8yMkCJU3mNAHeyu3XD1wCLcB/s640/DSC05268.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I wore floral toe-rings :-) </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S9GXngK8LxQ/WKbV-XQN_LI/AAAAAAAADmU/JImgZeMJOi0yL3z-pPb2TaQ8ZdxUFDqogCLcB/s1600/DSC05275.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S9GXngK8LxQ/WKbV-XQN_LI/AAAAAAAADmU/JImgZeMJOi0yL3z-pPb2TaQ8ZdxUFDqogCLcB/s640/DSC05275.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The lunch was heavenly. I think anything would pass off as heavenly in such surroundings. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">He asked me if I had some painkillers. Anand later mentioned that the shepherds are addicted to painkillers. They are all the time exposed to the natural elements and that does take toll on the body. The trail which we had found to be challenging and which we did for recreation, they do for a livelihood, regardless of the seasons or their health. You know that mountain sheep and goats easily walk on precarious looking edges looking for grass, oblivious that a human (their shepherd) has to follow suit on the same perilous path. I saw shepherds, walking and standing on such steep paths and edges, that the very sight of that freaked me out. But that is a way of life for them. Anand pointed out that the Nomadâs trail has been walked upon by only the shepherds, their flock and few humans who have done the trail. It felt mighty good hearing that.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rbu0m9HI92o/WKbWJdZS2hI/AAAAAAAADmg/xFJIvB5LV_Uv8oSYAtRarwKxCGm0vQWPQCLcB/s1600/DSC05281.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rbu0m9HI92o/WKbWJdZS2hI/AAAAAAAADmg/xFJIvB5LV_Uv8oSYAtRarwKxCGm0vQWPQCLcB/s640/DSC05281.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Gujjar with his buffaloes.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jjzCZi98Fm0/WKbeB_eEOBI/AAAAAAAADpM/SZPIBwkV1VkeJQYh1R227URX8sI1CrcfgCLcB/s1600/DSC05279.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jjzCZi98Fm0/WKbeB_eEOBI/AAAAAAAADpM/SZPIBwkV1VkeJQYh1R227URX8sI1CrcfgCLcB/s640/DSC05279.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The bite mark of a leopard on his hand. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-is2fBpaalQM/WKbWJEelRSI/AAAAAAAADmc/1IyZN7trq_M4Hn-RF-uqgXAC_O-eWzHOwCLcB/s1600/DSC05284.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-is2fBpaalQM/WKbWJEelRSI/AAAAAAAADmc/1IyZN7trq_M4Hn-RF-uqgXAC_O-eWzHOwCLcB/s640/DSC05284.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The staff preparing our meals. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d4yKS3rVmhs/WKbWKKde3CI/AAAAAAAADmk/Kt7IwwInBDsIF2ZMGXY1fWBbL4W_LJX8QCLcB/s1600/DSC05289.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d4yKS3rVmhs/WKbWKKde3CI/AAAAAAAADmk/Kt7IwwInBDsIF2ZMGXY1fWBbL4W_LJX8QCLcB/s640/DSC05289.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The staff was sturdy to lug such heavy tree logs. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DO9PWfeMHNA/WKbWLzstcTI/AAAAAAAADmo/jxsqRYQB0c8JMuuBhtLG5CoCHXGd8PpFACLcB/s1600/DSC05294.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DO9PWfeMHNA/WKbWLzstcTI/AAAAAAAADmo/jxsqRYQB0c8JMuuBhtLG5CoCHXGd8PpFACLcB/s640/DSC05294.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Anand Sankar, in traditional Garhwali coat. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Anand had earlier whetted my appetite by mentioning that sometimes the Gujjars make fresh cottage cheese in their tents which they sometimes sell. Anand and his team have used this earlier for cooking in the camps. The very thought of eating paneer made from the milk of buffaloes fed on alpine pastures, flowers and stream water, was enough for me to follow up umpteen number of times on the same. Anand dispatched two of his staff in search of the paneer, but sadly that day it wasnât available! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZatXYJRYFmU/WKbWUbAp37I/AAAAAAAADms/3O1DK47ocjwi6PNVY0uQtQ3dSewlZAjpQCLcB/s1600/DSC05314.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZatXYJRYFmU/WKbWUbAp37I/AAAAAAAADms/3O1DK47ocjwi6PNVY0uQtQ3dSewlZAjpQCLcB/s640/DSC05314.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Morning in Beejay Top just before sunrise. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U-2M4JmPm74/WKbWWHdeN4I/AAAAAAAADmw/i_FAD3Q2WVInG-nV7VdOPjhBCrqPVNQoACLcB/s1600/DSC05321.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U-2M4JmPm74/WKbWWHdeN4I/AAAAAAAADmw/i_FAD3Q2WVInG-nV7VdOPjhBCrqPVNQoACLcB/s640/DSC05321.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<br /><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another interesting insight was how the trails are formed. The sheep and goats urinate as they are walk in a file, and they generally follow the same trail by smell, and urinate again on that path. When the urea in the soil crosses a particular limit, it becomes too toxic for the grass or plants to grow, and hence a trail is created.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HygK1YP8aAs/WKbWkl5q64I/AAAAAAAADnE/au5Z6RlMl74AenG3_D2nnPEr_qJvbOQWQCLcB/s1600/DSC05346.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HygK1YP8aAs/WKbWkl5q64I/AAAAAAAADnE/au5Z6RlMl74AenG3_D2nnPEr_qJvbOQWQCLcB/s640/DSC05346.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Hello there! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kdz9mM84e9A/WKbWkqGAx2I/AAAAAAAADnI/XTq4sUJysikWYweoJvxlUKrwS3N7_3hjACLcB/s1600/DSC05354.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kdz9mM84e9A/WKbWkqGAx2I/AAAAAAAADnI/XTq4sUJysikWYweoJvxlUKrwS3N7_3hjACLcB/s640/DSC05354.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Hey you! </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H0azczMRRKs/WKbWj5gAJfI/AAAAAAAADnA/rY0Hhttzoh84in2h9hUW1eZ10sOrrIkHACLcB/s1600/DSC05361.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H0azczMRRKs/WKbWj5gAJfI/AAAAAAAADnA/rY0Hhttzoh84in2h9hUW1eZ10sOrrIkHACLcB/s640/DSC05361.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Look how this shepherd is standing precariously on a rock. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MzsZdvT26KU/WKbWoYFYSoI/AAAAAAAADnM/5IRsfZMNJJkclli33jVu581YxS-mNeOjQCLcB/s1600/DSC05368.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MzsZdvT26KU/WKbWoYFYSoI/AAAAAAAADnM/5IRsfZMNJJkclli33jVu581YxS-mNeOjQCLcB/s640/DSC05368.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Another stream.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Anyways, it was one of the most magical days at Beejay Top and the next day we climbed down at stayed at Karba where we snacked on freshly plucked apricots, enjoyed the views of the terraced fields and interacted with Rajmohanâs very friendly frail looking Mother who showed us her heavily tattooed arms and legs. After staying the night there, next day, we came back to Kalap to learn more about the initiatives of the Kalap Trust set up by Anand. Taking a hot shower felt like luxury after 5 days of no shower. I discovered to my horror that I was severely sun-burnt and looked scary in the mirror, thanks to the nap under the sun in Beejay Top. But sun burnt skin peels off, new skin grows and I would give anything to go back to Beejay Top and relive the same experience!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OryKCHNYOGs/WKbXEizNO6I/AAAAAAAADnc/2Y2v32Kj6A0mR3i45LYzVY34pbifWS-vQCLcB/s1600/DSC05376.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OryKCHNYOGs/WKbXEizNO6I/AAAAAAAADnc/2Y2v32Kj6A0mR3i45LYzVY34pbifWS-vQCLcB/s640/DSC05376.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Freshly plucked apricots. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4qFSrdQSZ9M/WKbXElfn1BI/AAAAAAAADnk/0Lriye1y8D47cQz4-x3TAdTEblOMcgT8wCLcB/s1600/DSC05379.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4qFSrdQSZ9M/WKbXElfn1BI/AAAAAAAADnk/0Lriye1y8D47cQz4-x3TAdTEblOMcgT8wCLcB/s640/DSC05379.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rajmohan's mother. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z_rBlMUr6PI/WKbXEmH6v_I/AAAAAAAADng/5C-9aNGrpFMAHwbsySXrDusFJJCrAm07wCLcB/s1600/DSC05382.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z_rBlMUr6PI/WKbXEmH6v_I/AAAAAAAADng/5C-9aNGrpFMAHwbsySXrDusFJJCrAm07wCLcB/s640/DSC05382.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Beautiful tattoos on her legs. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RGiEZzCCdQ0/WKbXKCr2XFI/AAAAAAAADnw/tUxYaPmw8wIxeCe_WSdVj_F5mviqxZWzQCLcB/s1600/DSC05412.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RGiEZzCCdQ0/WKbXKCr2XFI/AAAAAAAADnw/tUxYaPmw8wIxeCe_WSdVj_F5mviqxZWzQCLcB/s640/DSC05412.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Children of Kalap. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K67D9lclxLU/WKbXJ5YMuDI/AAAAAAAADns/uQsQmDojroMlC7qWJ-5qrEWVLuSkiWb4QCLcB/s1600/DSC05424.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K67D9lclxLU/WKbXJ5YMuDI/AAAAAAAADns/uQsQmDojroMlC7qWJ-5qrEWVLuSkiWb4QCLcB/s640/DSC05424.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Traditional food item made with Amaranth flour and served with ghee in the centre. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jcJNdOB4jJA/WKbXKVUtXRI/AAAAAAAADn0/sgj9XSvKs2cJ62zD8N7Pp4r6_GbZh0YawCLcB/s1600/DSC05426.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jcJNdOB4jJA/WKbXKVUtXRI/AAAAAAAADn0/sgj9XSvKs2cJ62zD8N7Pp4r6_GbZh0YawCLcB/s640/DSC05426.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A class in progress.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We went around the village, admiring some of the more intricately carved facades of houses, and watching the very lively teacher, Ashwini, teaching the kids in a very fun and interactive way.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The day ended with a traditional meal made of Amaranth dough and loads of ghee, served with apricot and mint chutney. A little girl whom I had become friends with, gave me some walnuts as parting gift. What a sweet gesture and touching end to a great stay and experience.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Beautiful carvings on houses. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9vMIfMheJg/WKbXemEyPRI/AAAAAAAADoM/zHL1RKfruc44JmVNJeoL8ab-7ZTB1aZ6wCLcB/s1600/DSC05444.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9vMIfMheJg/WKbXemEyPRI/AAAAAAAADoM/zHL1RKfruc44JmVNJeoL8ab-7ZTB1aZ6wCLcB/s640/DSC05444.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Good to know:</span><br />
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<li><span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;">The Nomadâs Trail is a moderately difficult trek. Go if you have some prior trekking experience.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;">They have other easier trails too, for families. Check their website or contact Anand.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;">Carry thermal wear and adequate woolens even in summer, because in the higher altitude, it gets very cold. I had not carried thermal wear, because I thought it would be warm in June, but it was extremely cold.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #444444; font-size: large;">For women who have their periods during the trek, carry sufficient garbage bags and newspaper and dispose the waste back in Dehradun, unless you have some bio-degradable options. There is no option of disposing or burning sanitary waste in Kalap. Check with Anand about this.</span></li>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Savour each moment in the forests. Finally I realized my
dream of travelling to âUntouched Garhwalâ. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pOpSObUYosg/WKbY22K23PI/AAAAAAAADow/fmnjvIBr1r4mt-qi0xJT-2wjLfsZtNiEgCLcB/s1600/DSC05481.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pOpSObUYosg/WKbY22K23PI/AAAAAAAADow/fmnjvIBr1r4mt-qi0xJT-2wjLfsZtNiEgCLcB/s640/DSC05481.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I had a good mind to kidnap this superlatively cute grey lamb.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BeB9yG2wNm4/WKbY2IR4yCI/AAAAAAAADos/2RoXbpOwi98fjNrYYjGYUbXPZWNkPrWvwCLcB/s1600/DSC05493.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BeB9yG2wNm4/WKbY2IR4yCI/AAAAAAAADos/2RoXbpOwi98fjNrYYjGYUbXPZWNkPrWvwCLcB/s640/DSC05493.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Back home after a beautiful 9 days.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Visit </span><a href="http://www.kalap.in/"><span style="color: red;">www.kalap.in</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> for more details on the responsible tourism projects.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Visit </span><a href="http://www.kalaptrust.org/"><span style="color: red;">www.kalaptrust.org</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> for the initiatives in Kalap.</span></span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Facebook</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-33220357462652395722017-01-25T03:19:00.000-08:002017-01-27T03:36:20.389-08:00Chasing Rhododendron Blooms on the Deoriataal-Chopta- Chandrashila trek. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHRAhyuRH88/WIh6TB3UQ1I/AAAAAAAADfM/fP5k84KOTFQYIbjYuuXu9PX0-TJEH43vQCEw/s1600/DSC04372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHRAhyuRH88/WIh6TB3UQ1I/AAAAAAAADfM/fP5k84KOTFQYIbjYuuXu9PX0-TJEH43vQCEw/s640/DSC04372.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Red rhododendron tree.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="color: #444444;">I had first read about rhododendrons in T. Lobsang Rampaâs
book. He writes about how a dish made of rhododendron flowers was a delicacy
amongst the elite in Tibet (before the Chinese took over). That kindled in me a
desire to see the rhododendron trees. Later, I read about an entire sanctuary
dedicated to the rhododendrons in Sikkim. So last year, during April, I had
intended to visit the Barsey Rhododendron sanctuary in Sikkim and combine it
with some volunteering activity. But that was not to be. But I had to see the
rhododendrons having made up my mind. So I discovered a trek instead that
passes through dense oak and rhododendron forests. Without a second thought, I
signed up for the trek with GIO Adventures. (</span><a href="http://www.gio.in/chopta-deoriatal-trek-and-chandrashila-peak"><span style="color: red;">www.GIO.in</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">)</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qtRWq2Wai_E/WIh5g22VYdI/AAAAAAAADdY/B4_sXmSvM5QilthV7djOnBGBy-NVvdPPACLcB/s1600/DSC04289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qtRWq2Wai_E/WIh5g22VYdI/AAAAAAAADdY/B4_sXmSvM5QilthV7djOnBGBy-NVvdPPACLcB/s640/DSC04289.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The confluence of the rivers Alaknanda and Ganga at Devprayag.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My first taste of rhododendron juice on the way. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The trek was the Deoritaal-Chopta Chandrashila peak trek
over 5 days, out of which 3 days are for the trek itself. While reading up more
about rhododendrons, I read that even the juice of the flowers is made and sold
in those areas. I was delighted and told my trekking coordinator that I had to
have the juice at any cost. Iâll tell you later how I managed to get it J</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We were welcomed with tea and snacks at the lodge. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sitting by the river Mandakini.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uk-2DPq7sI0/WIh5_lEOmUI/AAAAAAAADfI/rzg8weMSDIEEL1feLXeTw0sBQ_f0V-OQACEw/s1600/DSC04313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uk-2DPq7sI0/WIh5_lEOmUI/AAAAAAAADfI/rzg8weMSDIEEL1feLXeTw0sBQ_f0V-OQACEw/s640/DSC04313.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I got back this beautiful pebble as a souvenir. </span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Just one week before the trek the coordinator called me to
say that no other people had booked the trek and since I would be alone, if I
wanted to cancel it. Alone on a trek. I was thrilled at the thought! So, much
to his disappointment, I told him that since my flight tickets were non-refundable
he had to organize the trek even if it was only me. But so that it was
cost-effective for them, they promoted that trek on social media and managed to
get three other people (Thank God there werenât more!).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The meeting point was </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/04/haridwar-photo-essay.html"><span style="color: red;">Haridwar</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. So I flew in a day early to
Delhi, took a train to Haridwar and stayed overnight. The driver of the
trekking company picked me up from the station along with one other person (who
got really high on weed, but more on that later) and later another two people from
Rishikesh on route and we drove to a place called Kund where we were put up in
lovely lodges by the river Mandakini. The drive was lovely too, following the
course of the rivers, Alaknanda and Ganga and finally the Mandakini. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-va69u3VxLYA/WIh6BZuhAVI/AAAAAAAADfI/kfqxrr8B-c4ouyZDd4WOZvBNdStSr7kZwCEw/s1600/DSC04319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-va69u3VxLYA/WIh6BZuhAVI/AAAAAAAADfI/kfqxrr8B-c4ouyZDd4WOZvBNdStSr7kZwCEw/s640/DSC04319.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yashpal, the guide said that the flowers of this plant are loaded with Vitamin C, so I ate a bunch :-) It was citrusy. </span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-erkWRgGJzaI/WIh6B_uwweI/AAAAAAAADfI/-PCHLJl_z7QoYCpEoH-gTrgy1iCdrhgEwCEw/s1600/DSC04326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-erkWRgGJzaI/WIh6B_uwweI/AAAAAAAADfI/-PCHLJl_z7QoYCpEoH-gTrgy1iCdrhgEwCEw/s640/DSC04326.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Terraced fields on the way from Kund to Deoriataal.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The location of the lodge couldnât have been better. There
were birds chirping and greeting us everywhere. Iâm a novice bird watcher, but
I couldnât identify some birds, some on my own and some with the help of a book-
The Eurasian Blackbird, the Oriental White Eye, the Black Lored Tit, Black
Bulbul, Red Throated Flycatcher, the gorgeous Yellow Billed Blue Magpie, to
name a few. Their chirping along with the music of the waters of the Mandakini
made the experience very memorable. I walked down from my lodge and sat by the
river for some time. It was blissful.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ghax8GifrdY/WIh6FgpPKPI/AAAAAAAADfI/-L5kCCjhjmoUCy-53u1PfVHzIuPLjc9BQCEw/s1600/DSC04330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ghax8GifrdY/WIh6FgpPKPI/AAAAAAAADfI/-L5kCCjhjmoUCy-53u1PfVHzIuPLjc9BQCEw/s640/DSC04330.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Catching my breath and posing. </span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCUaLBOqZZw/WIh6IRbsVII/AAAAAAAADfI/PPc0S9ZFQhg7iY_objvLZ0SsXNiI4ANAACEw/s1600/DSC04331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCUaLBOqZZw/WIh6IRbsVII/AAAAAAAADfI/PPc0S9ZFQhg7iY_objvLZ0SsXNiI4ANAACEw/s640/DSC04331.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A local lady with a basket full of dried leaves on her back. Even during the Monsoon, she said, she carries cooking cylinders on her back from the road to her home. She looked frail but was strong. </span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oS-BfMkrcQk/WIh6KI-As4I/AAAAAAAADfI/h54jFAz6qpAL44BXoPlfYiwoSAcemGLlgCEw/s1600/DSC04333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oS-BfMkrcQk/WIh6KI-As4I/AAAAAAAADfI/h54jFAz6qpAL44BXoPlfYiwoSAcemGLlgCEw/s640/DSC04333.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We walked through lovely paths. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The next day, in the morning, we were dropped at a village
from where we were to begin our trek. The initial climb was pretty steep and
since it was sunny, we were sweaty and panting in no time. We passed through
villages all along the steep climb passing through terraced fields, smiling
women carrying wood or hay on their backs and children prancing around. Once we
climbed sufficiently, I lay my eyes for the first time, on the very thing I had
come to seek- the Rhododendron tree. But this wasnât even one percent of the
beauty that I was to experience later. This is because in places that are
inhabited, people pluck the red rhododendron flowers from the lower part of the
tree to eat them and make juice, so all the trees looked as if they had a crew
cut with a shock of red hair!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/07/monsoon-trek-to-sudhagad.html"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You may like my post on the Sudhagad trek too. </span></a></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wASbhljvtbk/WIh6LbP9-3I/AAAAAAAADfI/pfCURiTeVk8NjM9T3Y4gu_XwzQJKHBnFgCEw/s1600/DSC04341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wASbhljvtbk/WIh6LbP9-3I/AAAAAAAADfI/pfCURiTeVk8NjM9T3Y4gu_XwzQJKHBnFgCEw/s640/DSC04341.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The first sight of the flowers. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kvjjVCXdqAI/WIh6NW7h1fI/AAAAAAAADfI/GW-39OxH-nAVKJCN2G7_DpjPRrCoAq_yQCEw/s1600/DSC04342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kvjjVCXdqAI/WIh6NW7h1fI/AAAAAAAADfI/GW-39OxH-nAVKJCN2G7_DpjPRrCoAq_yQCEw/s640/DSC04342.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rhododendron flower in close up. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y81Plst6EOY/WIh6Sez1vMI/AAAAAAAADfM/KGrQgeLebMs8SzfuU8HxykRJxC8Kq4dlwCEw/s1600/DSC04366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y81Plst6EOY/WIh6Sez1vMI/AAAAAAAADfM/KGrQgeLebMs8SzfuU8HxykRJxC8Kq4dlwCEw/s640/DSC04366.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A tree in full bloom. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHRAhyuRH88/WIh6TB3UQ1I/AAAAAAAADfM/fP5k84KOTFQYIbjYuuXu9PX0-TJEH43vQCEw/s1600/DSC04372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xHRAhyuRH88/WIh6TB3UQ1I/AAAAAAAADfM/fP5k84KOTFQYIbjYuuXu9PX0-TJEH43vQCEw/s640/DSC04372.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Once we had crossed the villages, it was beautiful in the
forest carpeted by olive green and yellow leaves and acorns from the Oak trees.
We stopped on and off to sip some water, to refuel ourselves with dry fruits,
nuts and chocolates and also for lunch and to take in the beauty of the
surroundings. Iâll let the pictures do the talking. Kund was at the height of
1350 meters above sea level. So after trekking for around 6 hours, including
breaks, we reached Deoriataal at the height of 2438 meters above sea level. We
were greeted by the sight of the beautiful Deoriataal lake with the Chaukhamba Mountains
at the backdrop. The lake derives its name from the references in the Puranas
(ancient scriptures) to the Devas (Deities) bathing in the lake, hence the name
Deoriataal (pronounced as Deva-ria-taal), âDevaâ meaning Gods and âtaalâ
meaning lake. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zmvSncWFgyc/WIh6TUXakyI/AAAAAAAADfM/1-uebGPxIXMLnDSyDQxXI_blF2SsvhROACEw/s1600/DSC04377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zmvSncWFgyc/WIh6TUXakyI/AAAAAAAADfM/1-uebGPxIXMLnDSyDQxXI_blF2SsvhROACEw/s640/DSC04377.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Deoriataal as we approached it. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jT7SUyFrby8/WIh6WmnwgEI/AAAAAAAADfM/jWqeZ9NAQ64ucAiNOnsAWCBurJBM2v6eACEw/s1600/DSC04378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jT7SUyFrby8/WIh6WmnwgEI/AAAAAAAADfM/jWqeZ9NAQ64ucAiNOnsAWCBurJBM2v6eACEw/s640/DSC04378.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Tea and pakode- tasted so delicious at the camp. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2fend1YfBeE/WIh6YP_gtfI/AAAAAAAADfM/BIYMrkJDJYYBVZ33Hw2RmmO-vXuWOo63wCEw/s1600/DSC04383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2fend1YfBeE/WIh6YP_gtfI/AAAAAAAADfM/BIYMrkJDJYYBVZ33Hw2RmmO-vXuWOo63wCEw/s640/DSC04383.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A shepherd and his flock came by. I picked up a black lamb. It was like holding a big ball of wool. :-) </span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Chaukhamba peaks are named so because they look
like four pillars- âChauâ meaning four and âkhambaâ meaning pillars.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vWacPaXU6wQ/WIh6Z68ZFAI/AAAAAAAADfM/j6slhENawRgGRX5CQPZ1fo9m7lLd8hiTQCEw/s1600/DSC04398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vWacPaXU6wQ/WIh6Z68ZFAI/AAAAAAAADfM/j6slhENawRgGRX5CQPZ1fo9m7lLd8hiTQCEw/s640/DSC04398.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">While walking around the lake, I saw this idol. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AQJ9GUhPo5c/WIh6di2ES2I/AAAAAAAADfM/11O1Yj2w--w3tsVNa9kh2pIVLymVB28UgCEw/s1600/DSC04400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AQJ9GUhPo5c/WIh6di2ES2I/AAAAAAAADfM/11O1Yj2w--w3tsVNa9kh2pIVLymVB28UgCEw/s640/DSC04400.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Petals of the flower strewn all over. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dkTRv1CwsuA/WIh6fX9eoQI/AAAAAAAADfM/G8LoEG7JJ24SCW1gIO7-0OhmynXVJigXACEw/s1600/DSC04403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dkTRv1CwsuA/WIh6fX9eoQI/AAAAAAAADfM/G8LoEG7JJ24SCW1gIO7-0OhmynXVJigXACEw/s640/DSC04403.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The quiet before the drama.</span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The GIO staff had already put up tents and had prepared
plates of piping hot pakodas (gram flour fritters) and masala Tea. Iâm not sure
if itâs because of the location or because we were tired, the snacks eaten on
treks always taste of the world. I had decided to make the best of the evening.
I had books on my Kindle and my sketch book. I sat down under a tree, admiring
the beauty and sipping tea. Little did I know that the evening couldnât have
been more dramatic? In under ten minutes my contemplation was broken by loud
talking and noises made by another group who were camping nearby. I decided to
ignore them. After an hour, when the loud talking was combined with loud
Bollywood music and hooting, I couldnât take it anymore. I told my trek leader
that I am going to tell that group to behave themselves. The trek leader,
Yashpal Singh, an amicable person who made the trek such a memorable experience
told me that he would himself go and talk to the trek leader of the other
group.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A38VPTBLIJg/WIh6idx7eeI/AAAAAAAADfM/JprhFYfdMm4pAwjz4ZBPMXYXdQLgbaSngCEw/s1600/DSC04415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A38VPTBLIJg/WIh6idx7eeI/AAAAAAAADfM/JprhFYfdMm4pAwjz4ZBPMXYXdQLgbaSngCEw/s640/DSC04415.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I collected some acorns on the way as souvenirs. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6F_ikgzz8Vs/WIh6mUP19oI/AAAAAAAADfM/Dip_h6-21poS8h3Y_3sNc4tFIVU7rIn7gCEw/s1600/DSC04416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6F_ikgzz8Vs/WIh6mUP19oI/AAAAAAAADfM/Dip_h6-21poS8h3Y_3sNc4tFIVU7rIn7gCEw/s640/DSC04416.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A village on the opposite mountain. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNGCySzIHXs/WIh6n_8SPRI/AAAAAAAADfY/zE9BoXVs6YIfHlkAmT024-4be67VZzxJgCEw/s1600/DSC04439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tNGCySzIHXs/WIh6n_8SPRI/AAAAAAAADfY/zE9BoXVs6YIfHlkAmT024-4be67VZzxJgCEw/s640/DSC04439.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Gnarled roots look so perfect in the forest. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w5KzmGtG8gQ/WIh6pESgiOI/AAAAAAAADfY/u71CA4XqelAW3LdNn7LnzlFEFAewBwYvACEw/s1600/DSC04440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w5KzmGtG8gQ/WIh6pESgiOI/AAAAAAAADfY/u71CA4XqelAW3LdNn7LnzlFEFAewBwYvACEw/s640/DSC04440.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Saw this cutie pie and notice the tiny flowers around. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">He returned and in five minutes the loud Bollywood music had
thankfully stopped but not their chatter completely. I was told the group is
from India Hikes. After returning from my trip I sent an email to the founder
of India Hikes about the bad experience with this group. He was quick to
apologize and assured it wouldnât happen again. I donât understand why on earth
people would go to such scenic locations to play loud music and party, when
they can very well do that in the cities. The thing that infuriates me most
about this is the disturbance it causes the birds and animals in the area. Itâs
like desecrating Nature.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-er7FYRMf_1o/WIh7Rp0Q6AI/AAAAAAAADfo/OViZpl6W2t4DP3MUjR2mUkT7jiwBcKvggCEw/s1600/DSC04470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-er7FYRMf_1o/WIh7Rp0Q6AI/AAAAAAAADfo/OViZpl6W2t4DP3MUjR2mUkT7jiwBcKvggCEw/s640/DSC04470.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On the way between Deoriataal and Chopta- It was like being in heaven.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VO4siDBLBH0/WIh7QhWCT5I/AAAAAAAADfo/uaQb1_7fhnQAc4Q0Hg_NPtHuwQbbQTOVACEw/s1600/DSC04476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VO4siDBLBH0/WIh7QhWCT5I/AAAAAAAADfo/uaQb1_7fhnQAc4Q0Hg_NPtHuwQbbQTOVACEw/s640/DSC04476.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GCOlhBBrBwc/WIh6z25EdhI/AAAAAAAADfY/R5eN-1g9v8Y5QCh0TaVTx6BbcExFLjFNwCEw/s1600/DSC04477-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GCOlhBBrBwc/WIh6z25EdhI/AAAAAAAADfY/R5eN-1g9v8Y5QCh0TaVTx6BbcExFLjFNwCEw/s640/DSC04477-resized.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t_fNeJER91g/WIh8JtnQa8I/AAAAAAAADgI/J5c1UMw_9-0SK1-_GsnFrjjP59Ovu2uLACEw/s1600/DSC04495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t_fNeJER91g/WIh8JtnQa8I/AAAAAAAADgI/J5c1UMw_9-0SK1-_GsnFrjjP59Ovu2uLACEw/s640/DSC04495.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Anyways, this was not the end of the drama. While having
dinner, another member of our group started behaving funnily and talking
incoherently. I didnât know then but another gentleman in our group told me
that he is behaving this way because he has smoked weed. Now, this was a new
experience for me. I had never met anyone who got high after smoking weed or
anything else for that matter, so I observed him with curiosity and interest. His
behavior turned weirder and weirder with each passing minute. He refused to
have dinner (it is important to eat to replenish the body with energy during
treks), wanted one of us to come and sing a lullaby for him in the tent, and
within an hour he was sooo high, he said he wanted to die and started stripping
in the near zero temperature and wanted to jump into the freezing waters of the
Deoriataal. Yashpal, along with the two cooks had to restrain him and bring him
into the kitchen tent, from where he escaped at 3 a.m. I realized this when I
heard a hushed voice asking âAre you awake?â from the tent next to mine, which
happened to be his. In the stillness of the night, even the hushed voice
sounded loud. I did not reply but grabbed my trekking pole and was ready to hit
him on the head, if he attempted to come near my tent or open it in his
intoxicated state. Luckily for him, that didnât happen. I was told that he had
managed to get weed from another camper nearby. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UGfLdL0thPk/WIh7cEVqKuI/AAAAAAAADfw/28acHHTp3YcKIop7mL3duXp8fH1u9qlNgCEw/s1600/DSC04496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UGfLdL0thPk/WIh7cEVqKuI/AAAAAAAADfw/28acHHTp3YcKIop7mL3duXp8fH1u9qlNgCEw/s640/DSC04496.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Whispering sweet nothings with each other.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TkK6iPfytS0/WIiFvaEIDbI/AAAAAAAADiA/-Zuwdfm9XPIseJ4k_FOPtKLWxehyW1hvgCLcB/s1600/DSC04285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TkK6iPfytS0/WIiFvaEIDbI/AAAAAAAADiA/-Zuwdfm9XPIseJ4k_FOPtKLWxehyW1hvgCLcB/s640/DSC04285.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yashpal asked me to jump at Rohini bugyal and took this picture which happens to be one of my favourites. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Next morning we were up and awake by 6 am, had a hearty
breakfast and were ready by 7.30 to trek to Chopta. It was as if the Nature
fairies were compensating for the previous day, but this day was the highlight
of the trip.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oetsuPAZlPw/WIh90elcteI/AAAAAAAADhE/QYE_iH8u0X48ReKq5nzl1IDYJWje_NYgQCEw/s1600/DSC04461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oetsuPAZlPw/WIh90elcteI/AAAAAAAADhE/QYE_iH8u0X48ReKq5nzl1IDYJWje_NYgQCEw/s640/DSC04461.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The pink rhododendron in close up. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LvHgV7h5bZQ/WIh92gALIZI/AAAAAAAADhE/fD8VoJEs4GY7uO54zjKhUmQWWJovolfzwCEw/s1600/DSC04486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LvHgV7h5bZQ/WIh92gALIZI/AAAAAAAADhE/fD8VoJEs4GY7uO54zjKhUmQWWJovolfzwCEw/s640/DSC04486.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was motivated to jump everywhere after the initial flattering first picture. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u5P0SyN-oRk/WIh97KWLLNI/AAAAAAAADhs/YhkeTu3spq0g8oI8S_bHeJCWXtmRPa50gCEw/s1600/DSC04492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u5P0SyN-oRk/WIh97KWLLNI/AAAAAAAADhs/YhkeTu3spq0g8oI8S_bHeJCWXtmRPa50gCEw/s640/DSC04492.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We were to trek 16 kms from Deoriataal to Chopta (which is
called the âSwitzerland of Indiaâ) and climb from 2438 meters to 2800 meters
above sea level. We walked through dense rhododendron forests and everywhere
that I looked, seemed like postcard picture. We crossed alpine meadows, all
dusted with pretty, tiny flowers. Nature is so whole, even a fallen tree in the
forest looks so poetic and beautiful. Since this was a higher altitude, there
were only pink rhododendrons. Higher the altitude, the paler is the colour of
flowers because of the oxygen levels. Thus, in very high altitudes, the trees
would be stunted in growth and the flowers almost white. Just imagine, all the
trees around you, dressed in their best blushing pink rhododendron attire.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HPud1LssPpM/WIh99ZZCF5I/AAAAAAAADhs/HuSYx_0AQow0QAM3ly5C-aoSm22CAqSPgCEw/s1600/DSC04504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HPud1LssPpM/WIh99ZZCF5I/AAAAAAAADhs/HuSYx_0AQow0QAM3ly5C-aoSm22CAqSPgCEw/s640/DSC04504.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fallen trees look so poetic. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UjfSjIGSKcM/WIh-AL-fDmI/AAAAAAAADhs/Ki5zyBEXnQk2dY2SjmiTAomgqamzgW0ZwCEw/s1600/DSC04505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UjfSjIGSKcM/WIh-AL-fDmI/AAAAAAAADhs/Ki5zyBEXnQk2dY2SjmiTAomgqamzgW0ZwCEw/s640/DSC04505.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BpYxqIiiD80/WIh-Gqb7LjI/AAAAAAAADhs/5pfNGtNUOGob-YRpDmIvCMf_Rdo9GKYrQCEw/s1600/DSC04507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BpYxqIiiD80/WIh-Gqb7LjI/AAAAAAAADhs/5pfNGtNUOGob-YRpDmIvCMf_Rdo9GKYrQCEw/s640/DSC04507.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Emerson had said, âThe Earth laughs in flowersâ, and I felt
the full impact of that line in this place. How did the laughter sound? Like a
harp playing in my own heart. This is the sight I had come for and I was
thrilled to bits. Every few steps that we took, we encountered more beauty with
the landscape awash with multiple shades of green and pink, with the blue
canopy of the sky above flecked with clouds. We stopped at Rohni Bugyal, a meadow,
for a break, and I lay down in the grass to absorb the beauty. Was I in heaven?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SY1cpIISaHs/WIh-GuDJZbI/AAAAAAAADhs/Mv5gUV-XCWkAkXNTuKuKi8FVgBo0uZO9gCEw/s1600/DSC04508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SY1cpIISaHs/WIh-GuDJZbI/AAAAAAAADhs/Mv5gUV-XCWkAkXNTuKuKi8FVgBo0uZO9gCEw/s640/DSC04508.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was literally in a dreamland with so much beauty. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KyaQvCx-OPA/WIh-Hbdw3TI/AAAAAAAADhs/RAZVhUPlB2o-YEwBxtjaGZ0YASuBoBnjwCEw/s1600/DSC04522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KyaQvCx-OPA/WIh-Hbdw3TI/AAAAAAAADhs/RAZVhUPlB2o-YEwBxtjaGZ0YASuBoBnjwCEw/s640/DSC04522.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Just as we were exiting the forest, I found this flower, in perfect condition amidst the leaves, which I took as souvenir. </span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Yashpal suggested that I jump and he took an excellent shot
of me jumping against the background of these gorgeous trees.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S7GuwG3F_Ck/WIh-f3PuoUI/AAAAAAAADhw/-qPF5tD_4bIB4LFYFj36K64mpnWBOkqmQCEw/s1600/DSC04527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S7GuwG3F_Ck/WIh-f3PuoUI/AAAAAAAADhw/-qPF5tD_4bIB4LFYFj36K64mpnWBOkqmQCEw/s640/DSC04527.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">View from Chopta. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jbp19SPa5tI/WIh-QbQTH8I/AAAAAAAADhs/7_0TDMqw7W8sx9I7xRQOk-UFKbIgG8VpgCEw/s1600/DSC04536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jbp19SPa5tI/WIh-QbQTH8I/AAAAAAAADhs/7_0TDMqw7W8sx9I7xRQOk-UFKbIgG8VpgCEw/s640/DSC04536.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I like mountain dogs for their no nonsense attitude. They have a metal collar to protect them from leopard attacks. Leopards like all wild animals go for the neck of their prey. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We resumed our trek and reached Chopta at around 5.30 in the
evening, where we camped in tents. Iâve always been a morning person, but
mornings are special when closer to Nature. I make it a point wake up and watch
the sunrise when travelling to such scenic locations. Sunrises never cease to
amaze me. Itâs magical watching the sun slowly peeping out from behind the
mountains, imbuing everything around with golden light and the flora and fauna,
especially the birds, welcoming another day with their musical orchestra.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2GiihB-MxBM/WIh-MMy4jWI/AAAAAAAADhs/8bita4kbEzEDVHAnCcvCftG13A1RI4ITwCEw/s1600/DSC04545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2GiihB-MxBM/WIh-MMy4jWI/AAAAAAAADhs/8bita4kbEzEDVHAnCcvCftG13A1RI4ITwCEw/s640/DSC04545.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was addicted to jumping by now. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--auvYqOuN1A/WIh-SMxSWwI/AAAAAAAADhw/CRqfNMgvOR0ANWaF7yPkYXHGA3_jto8KQCEw/s1600/DSC04562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--auvYqOuN1A/WIh-SMxSWwI/AAAAAAAADhw/CRqfNMgvOR0ANWaF7yPkYXHGA3_jto8KQCEw/s640/DSC04562.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Snow clad mountains from Chopta. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was a freezing night in Chopta, after we had some
rainfall, after which the temperature dived further down. But I slept as well
as I could, and after a breakfast of broken wheat boiled in milk, we set out at
7.30 to Tungnath and then Chandrashila. The trek saw us climb from 2800 meters
from Chopta to 3680 meters to Tungnath and then to 4000 meters to Chandrashila
peak.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-68TWY1zBpZU/WIh-Y2VslLI/AAAAAAAADhw/XTJgXzTFHIsIDUq1t29bDHSWJb_DK4eiQCEw/s1600/DSC04569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-68TWY1zBpZU/WIh-Y2VslLI/AAAAAAAADhw/XTJgXzTFHIsIDUq1t29bDHSWJb_DK4eiQCEw/s640/DSC04569.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The entrance to Tungnath. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0p718ro79OU/WIh-b1RW1xI/AAAAAAAADhw/Lsbid3hrLOQtaBrCPM_3CNbjPvbWqM2SwCEw/s1600/DSC04593.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0p718ro79OU/WIh-b1RW1xI/AAAAAAAADhw/Lsbid3hrLOQtaBrCPM_3CNbjPvbWqM2SwCEw/s640/DSC04593.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">There was snow along the path. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Tungnath being a popular pilgrim destination, the way was
well paved, and it was beautiful with a denser concentration of rhododendron trees.
But, somehow, I preferred the previous day better, walking through the
undulating forests and natural trails. Being at a higher altitude, this area is
known for the sighting of the reclusive and shy Monal bird. Yashpal said, we
would have to keep looking. I pleaded with the Nature fairies to bring a Monal
in my line of view. The way, although well paved, was steep and that combined
with the high altitude, left me breathless after every few steps. There are
benches along the way to stop and catch oneâs breath. And as I was doing just
that, I heard a squawking sound in the air, right above me and when I looked
up, it was the Monal bird, flying away. I was thrilled. It looked so beautiful,
with colours, radiant and bright as in a peacock, only the tail was much
shorter. After an hour of walking, I was lucky to see another Monal in the
shrubs at a distance.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pOhsjXgssoM/WIh-fj55XqI/AAAAAAAADhw/bfFDXQ7Od3Q62sOdr0RHQOTQFBtvUfGkACEw/s1600/DSC04603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pOhsjXgssoM/WIh-fj55XqI/AAAAAAAADhw/bfFDXQ7Od3Q62sOdr0RHQOTQFBtvUfGkACEw/s640/DSC04603.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The place from where I saw a Monal. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We reached Tungnath, the highest Shiva temple in the world. The
temple was closed, as the deity and the priests had moved to Mukkumath, which
is the winter residence of the deity. In May there would be a ceremonial
procession for the return of the deity from Mukkumath to Tungnath. We went
around the temple and payed our obeisance. The temple is believed to be 1000
years old and built in stone in the Nagara style of temple architecture. After
the break we proceeded to the Chandrashila peak, which offers splendid 360
degrees view of the surroundings.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FFhQ5dj3i0Y/WIh-hhB_YRI/AAAAAAAADhw/PK5SEDCibkAHVLKMgMwKhKqFfDfARNDYACEw/s1600/DSC04612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FFhQ5dj3i0Y/WIh-hhB_YRI/AAAAAAAADhw/PK5SEDCibkAHVLKMgMwKhKqFfDfARNDYACEw/s640/DSC04612.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Tungnath temple. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4gvu5bp6wo/WIh-mQHBQtI/AAAAAAAADhw/D7QyRuDXkpUmmuKpaH_Em29e1j0hbKHVQCEw/s1600/DSC04621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p4gvu5bp6wo/WIh-mQHBQtI/AAAAAAAADhw/D7QyRuDXkpUmmuKpaH_Em29e1j0hbKHVQCEw/s640/DSC04621.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Smaller shrines.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The walk was steep and breathing was more difficult as we
approached 4000 meters. There was snow in several places so we had to watch
where we put our feet. Once we got to the top, we were again breathless, but
this time, because of the views. The landscape stretched out like an oil
painting, with greens, pinks, browns, reds, and the paved trail unspooling
under the blue sky. We had our sandwiches and enjoyed the quiet. Hats off to
Yashpal. He had been carrying almost 25 kgs on his back each day, comprising
our food, first aid and his own jacket. And he was always smiling, egging us on
and making sure all four of us were comfortable at all times.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Givp2s9-Qbs/WIh-pmaIKJI/AAAAAAAADhw/4I6iJUb9mkM0vWkQN0iMZdiTU1bfNYBTwCEw/s1600/DSC04657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Givp2s9-Qbs/WIh-pmaIKJI/AAAAAAAADhw/4I6iJUb9mkM0vWkQN0iMZdiTU1bfNYBTwCEw/s640/DSC04657.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I wasn't yet content with rhododendrons. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bd-rSaUuKtM/WIh-reIX_CI/AAAAAAAADhw/Ar-DIS_CYEUMsMZJmos_eXsUrbCr5Al3wCEw/s1600/DSC04671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bd-rSaUuKtM/WIh-reIX_CI/AAAAAAAADhw/Ar-DIS_CYEUMsMZJmos_eXsUrbCr5Al3wCEw/s640/DSC04671.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Can you really blame me for being greedy for more of this beauty?</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After we had our fill of the beauty, we started our descent.
This turned out to be more difficult as my toes, in an attempt to balance the
body on the steep descent, kept hitting the stone way from Tungnath onwards
and felt sore by the time I reached down. Our vehicle was waiting for us. We
proceeded to our lodge in Kund, with a stop at Ukhimath, another ancient temple
and the winter residence of Lord Kedarnath. But I will keep that for the next
post.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJDO6cd3ZS8/WIh-kCY0deI/AAAAAAAADhw/f9Zu07k46wgkkHCrIlmKT2OAdjeO7ijvACEw/s1600/DSC04628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJDO6cd3ZS8/WIh-kCY0deI/AAAAAAAADhw/f9Zu07k46wgkkHCrIlmKT2OAdjeO7ijvACEw/s640/DSC04628.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">View from Chandrashila peak. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We reached Kund, and it was amazing to have a hot shower and
a sumptuous meal. After resting well at night, in the morning I bade farewell
to the Mandakini river, the birds and the amazing staff who had made my trip so
memorable. Before the trip, I had told my trekking coordinator that I wanted the
rhododendron juice. Yashpal had sent his staff to look for it in the market,
but they were out of stock. So as a touching farewell gift, he gave me a bottle
of juice from their own stock. That was like the icing on the cake for me. I
was already high from the sight of the flowers, and then this juice, too, to
make me totally drunk on these flowers. After having thanked each staff and
tipping them, we proceeded to Haridwar, where I stayed overnight and took the
train to Delhi the next day morning and then a flight to Pune. A superb trip it
was!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o7pSF7jLG30/WIh-nQ9lpPI/AAAAAAAADhw/0GaaeIw_C5QG12PWFeYydY-J069-fyeGQCEw/s1600/DSC04655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o7pSF7jLG30/WIh-nQ9lpPI/AAAAAAAADhw/0GaaeIw_C5QG12PWFeYydY-J069-fyeGQCEw/s640/DSC04655.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A hearty meal on the way back. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A few more words about the staff and GIO. They had organized
the trip impeccably well. Right from initial communication, to updating me on
various things, to logistics, the accommodation, the food, the cooks, staff,
everyone did their best to make this trip memorable. Yashpal was an excellent
guide, always mindful of the varying paces of all four of us, always cheerful,
talking off and on but never intruding into your space and quietude. I would
surely go with GIO again and more so, if Yashpal is the trekking guide.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">You may check their website </span><a href="http://www.gio.in/"><span style="color: red;">www.gio.in</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">
for more details. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Also follow my posts on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" style="color: #7771bf; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: red;">Facebook.</span></a></span></span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-22013526023971285262016-12-26T03:53:00.001-08:002016-12-26T21:37:31.832-08:00A Re-cap of Travel in 2016. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4P6lhISkU4/WGDwjrEhnxI/AAAAAAAADSk/_jVUI5hqvcAyxgoU5MeSFXcgf4H1hAfbwCLcB/s1600/DSC04285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4P6lhISkU4/WGDwjrEhnxI/AAAAAAAADSk/_jVUI5hqvcAyxgoU5MeSFXcgf4H1hAfbwCLcB/s640/DSC04285.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was a high-spirited 2016!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sometime around this time last year, as curtains slowly drew on 2015, I made a resolution for 2016, and it was that I would make 12
trips and explore 12 new places in 2016, each dedicated to a month of the year.
And someone benign on the âother sideâ granted my wish and gave me one extra
trip. Yes, I made 13 trips this year. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">As this year draws to a close, I am filled with gratitude
for the year that has been, and more importantly for the travelling I have been
able to do. My travel this year was a mix of heritage, culture, cuisines,
trekking, nature trips, textile trails, so on and so forth. I realise I am left with a huge back
log of posts, as Iâve been either travelling, or planning my next trip or
tending to my </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/PurpleSoulArt/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Art. </span></a><span style="color: #444444;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Let me walk you through my delightful experiences this year :-) There were 13 major
trips and also a few discoveries within Pune that I have also blogged
about.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gP4a2UaVU8/WGDyldbJHjI/AAAAAAAADS8/PkGuGJ7Hkk0cngzCtu_lGJKd6oI-QKiFgCLcB/s1600/DSC03118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0gP4a2UaVU8/WGDyldbJHjI/AAAAAAAADS8/PkGuGJ7Hkk0cngzCtu_lGJKd6oI-QKiFgCLcB/s640/DSC03118.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The cave monasteries in Junnar.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The first trip in January was a good dose of history and Archaeology.
I travelled with </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/heritageinsights4U/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Heritage Insights</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, a group started by a team of Archaeologists
and Indologists who are doing an excellent job taking the rich history and
culture of India that is lesser known to a wider audience. That trip was like
an official introduction to Indian history and archaeology for me. The trip was
to the 2000 years old Buddhist cave monasteries in Junnar. The trip enlightened
us about the ancient Indo-Roman trade and its symbiotic relationship with the
mushrooming of monasteries along the trade routes. Luckily, </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/01/exploring-2000-years-old-buddhist-cave.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Iâve written about this and you may read it here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">:-) </span><span style="color: red;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A Striped Tiger butterfly.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">One Sunday we also went for a butterfly trail with </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/thewesternroutes/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">The WesternRoutes</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> and learnt to identify different species of butterflies in the garden.
The small park is situated right in the middle of a residential area and the
gardener, having taken a keen interest in butterflies, planted flowering shrubs
and plants that attract butterflies and thanks to his efforts, the small garden
now has around 50 species of butterflies. We spotted the Common Mormon, Striped
Tiger, Blue Tiger, Crimson Rose, Common Crow, etc. At one point after the sun
rays lit up the garden, there were so many butterflies flitting around, it felt
like a fairy land!</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Strawberry picking in Panchgani.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Next, also in January, </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/02/strawberry-picking-at-panchgani.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: red;">I lived my childhood fantasy to some extent of picking strawberries from a farm</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> I ate a lot of freshly plucked strawberries
and also got back some with me and made jams and parfaits J I surely have a thing
for fruit picking! </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/09/climbing-apple-tree.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Read about my apple picking adventure here</span></a>.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Chapati impressions in Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum (instruments for making impressions on flatbread).</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Come February, we visited the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum in
Pune which houses interesting and ancient artifacts belonging to different
eras. We also chanced upon a jaggery making set up on the outskirts of Pune. I,
for one, substitute sugar with jaggery wherever possible, because refined sugar
accelerates aging apart from the other harmful effects it has on the body from
high consumption. So I was delighted to see how jaggery, an oft used ingredient
in my kitchen, is made. </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/02/a-visit-to-jaggery-making-unit.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You can read about it here.</span></a></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fresh jaggery !</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Heritage Insights had announced its second trip for the year
to the lesser known princely states of Phaltan and Aundh. How often do you get
to meet people of royal lineage and interact with them? The current Prince, Shri
Raghunath Raje Naik Nimbalkar took out time to interact with our group and
narrate stories about his dynasty. He even offered us tea and snacks. Yes, we
snacked in the palace of the King J
While Iâm yet to blog about this, it was an enriching experience to go around
the Rajwada (palace) and learn history from Royalty himself. The Rajwada has
been maintained in excellent condition and it was like stepping back in time to
see the artifacts, furniture and objects dating back hundreds of years.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Posing with Prince Raghunath Raje Naik Nimbalkar. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mCeufhRx3cw/WGD0L9BCujI/AAAAAAAADTg/_GuDAAlSPa4lY9VwEOz0pbaQ44wuYRcXACLcB/s1600/DSC03441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mCeufhRx3cw/WGD0L9BCujI/AAAAAAAADTg/_GuDAAlSPa4lY9VwEOz0pbaQ44wuYRcXACLcB/s640/DSC03441.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Rajwada made entirely of wood and in prime condition. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">I had been wanting to visit Velas for quite some time and
that desire materialised in February this year. Velas is a sleepy non-descript
village on the Konkan coast which is now on the global map thanks to the
conservation of the endangered Olive Ridley turtles by the village people. It
was a dream come true to welcome button-like baby hatch-lings into the world and
watch them crawl their way to the mighty ocean and be swallowed by waves. </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/02/hatching-of-olive-ridley-turtles-at.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You can read about that experience here.</span></a></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Baby Turtles in Velas. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">March saw us attend a wedding in Delhi. I did make use of
that trip to explore the cityâs gastronomical delights, including a </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/03/visit-to-115-years-old-kulfi-shop-in.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: red;">visit to a 115 year old kulfi shop</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> Other interesting activities included a visit to the National Rail Museum where I kept
wondering where aesthetics has disappeared in trains today and a heritage walk with </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Intach-Heritage-Walks-199442496810218/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">INTACH Delhi</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> to the Lodhi garden tombs. Take a look at the
pictures of the trains from yore and </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/10/the-lodhi-garden-tombs.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">read about the Heritage walk with INTACH here.</span></a><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/10/the-lodhi-garden-tombs.html" style="color: #444444;" target="_blank"> </a></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XvN1g4QvOF4/WGD1EAsZUvI/AAAAAAAADT8/NIDdz3d9m5wzfD3u6M7JvnlqRLVDz6sZwCLcB/s1600/DSC04178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XvN1g4QvOF4/WGD1EAsZUvI/AAAAAAAADT8/NIDdz3d9m5wzfD3u6M7JvnlqRLVDz6sZwCLcB/s640/DSC04178.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bada Gumbad in Lodhi gardens. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0DJKWYA8teQ/WGD1IdzYM7I/AAAAAAAADUA/vlYOpD2f3RQ2Pv1nCL5N_W7oNUotycGJwCLcB/s1600/DSC04043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0DJKWYA8teQ/WGD1IdzYM7I/AAAAAAAADUA/vlYOpD2f3RQ2Pv1nCL5N_W7oNUotycGJwCLcB/s640/DSC04043.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Paan flavoured kulfi at Kuremal Kulfi shop (betel leaf flavoured kulfi)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8I3VlseWMOg/WGD1N6d254I/AAAAAAAADUE/tG6cXqgKZIc-Cz8U2lWOlj0GQnCx-nQSACLcB/s1600/DSC03877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8I3VlseWMOg/WGD1N6d254I/AAAAAAAADUE/tG6cXqgKZIc-Cz8U2lWOlj0GQnCx-nQSACLcB/s640/DSC03877.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This is an old train carriage from the 19th century. So artistic! </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In April I ticked another desire off my wish list. I had
first heard about the rhododendron flower in Lobsang Rampaâs book. Later I
heard that rhododendrons grow in the higher reaches of the Himalayas in India
too. I wanted to visit Sikkim where there are dedicated rhododendron
sanctuaries, but that was not to be, so I went on a rhododendron trail to
Uttarakhand on the Deoriataal-Chopta-Chandrashila peak trail. The most
memorable was the 16 km trek through virgin forests between Deoriataal and Chopta
where the whole forest blushing with pink rhododendrons greeted us. It was like
being in fairy land. I was drunk high on the beauty of the forest as well as on
rhododendron juice ;-)</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oW0WbD9S_Fk/WGD149RjZxI/AAAAAAAADUM/CB8R8YULYxg-vHNznPVNg4OmjG-G_EQvACLcB/s1600/DSC04477-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oW0WbD9S_Fk/WGD149RjZxI/AAAAAAAADUM/CB8R8YULYxg-vHNznPVNg4OmjG-G_EQvACLcB/s640/DSC04477-resized.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I am guessing Heaven would be like this?? </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4oWc9d1Sh5s/WGD2OPsHhtI/AAAAAAAADUY/0NFo7e1kQF4v5ONsS1Xviqv4FPXEz6QhACLcB/s1600/DSC04657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4oWc9d1Sh5s/WGD2OPsHhtI/AAAAAAAADUY/0NFo7e1kQF4v5ONsS1Xviqv4FPXEz6QhACLcB/s640/DSC04657.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Matching in pink! </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">While Mumbai is next door and may not qualify as a trip, I
would still include it in that category because I had signed up with</span><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Khaki.tours/" target="_blank">Khaki Tours</a></span><span style="color: #444444;"> </span></span><span style="color: #444444;">to explore the lesser known aspects of an area in Mumbai. Having grown up
in Mumbai, I feel thereâs a lot to the city that I still donât know. The
Lalbaug Stroll, a walk designed by Bharat Gothoskar of Khaki Tours led us
through narrow gullies, crumbling buildings, secret farms, erstwhile sacred
groves and had us delighted at discoveries in the city notorious for its super-fast
pace of life.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XlZFUIDmWAI/WGD2mxJUVBI/AAAAAAAADUg/TZFOru4SccwZakVR5THCLd8mYn0Bx5k6wCLcB/s1600/DSC04865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XlZFUIDmWAI/WGD2mxJUVBI/AAAAAAAADUg/TZFOru4SccwZakVR5THCLd8mYn0Bx5k6wCLcB/s640/DSC04865.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This used to be a sacred grove/ forest many years ago before it became a concrete jungle!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRd9v1L7gCk/WGD2oRvfyXI/AAAAAAAADUo/SFEp0N_WltwVsVeCGVvP4D6jAieEB5BIQCLcB/s1600/DSC04863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRd9v1L7gCk/WGD2oRvfyXI/AAAAAAAADUo/SFEp0N_WltwVsVeCGVvP4D6jAieEB5BIQCLcB/s640/DSC04863.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The idols of the deities who were forest protectors remains though. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPigabai6Bo/WGD2nDPX_DI/AAAAAAAADUk/18WVjupsySsjZHP8Vzw-joFK39OPf2_nACLcB/s1600/DSC04922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPigabai6Bo/WGD2nDPX_DI/AAAAAAAADUk/18WVjupsySsjZHP8Vzw-joFK39OPf2_nACLcB/s640/DSC04922.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fiery chillies in the Lalbaug market. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">In June came another surprise. I had been wanting to visit the
remote village, </span><a href="http://www.kalap.in/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kalap</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, since three years and suddenly in mid-June I found
myself in the un-touched, pristine,
beautiful village of Kalap. The high point of my trip was camping for 2 nights
and a day at the highest point in that village, called Beejay Top, at 12,500
feet above sea level. I lazed around the whole day on a carpet of flowers,
watching sheep and buffaloes pass by, sipping tea, chatting with nomadic
shepherds, reading a book and dozing off and on. Of course, I got severely
sun-burnt and it took two months for my skin to go back to normal. But thatâs not
what will stay with me forever. The memory of trekking through virgin forests,
gurgling mountain streams, alpine meadows and surreal landscapes surely will.I wrote a piece for the </span><a href="http://www.thebetterindia.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Better India</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, which </span><a href="http://www.thebetterindia.com/61108/kalap-trust-anand-sankar-garhwal-uttarakhand/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">you can read here.</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yq1wNfZDDz4/WGD3Wflf5SI/AAAAAAAADU0/dVg5c-6LjIgx5TOgyY2m6JED-4uJigQsACLcB/s1600/13483171_634785453342799_5730177592963432102_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yq1wNfZDDz4/WGD3Wflf5SI/AAAAAAAADU0/dVg5c-6LjIgx5TOgyY2m6JED-4uJigQsACLcB/s640/13483171_634785453342799_5730177592963432102_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lazying in Beejay Top. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-26AdU3S7oFI/WGD3WfrxU1I/AAAAAAAADU4/XVnpzqdHLxYOexS4ObWwZgsYZU_8DKCRwCLcB/s1600/DSC04997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-26AdU3S7oFI/WGD3WfrxU1I/AAAAAAAADU4/XVnpzqdHLxYOexS4ObWwZgsYZU_8DKCRwCLcB/s640/DSC04997.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Gorgeous sunsets! </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CMaCdOKIRJA/WGD3W5rzJ5I/AAAAAAAADU8/Xib8F1Vb5HI2d3pL5-USzSWP1aTMHO5lACLcB/s1600/DSC05183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CMaCdOKIRJA/WGD3W5rzJ5I/AAAAAAAADU8/Xib8F1Vb5HI2d3pL5-USzSWP1aTMHO5lACLcB/s640/DSC05183.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The beauty of the forest was overwhelming. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DZHqnTIkpvg/WGD3Ywv9MUI/AAAAAAAADVA/EjJXLXCzT3IBqNBw6ycqxDnGl0ROKdPngCLcB/s1600/DSC05442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DZHqnTIkpvg/WGD3Ywv9MUI/AAAAAAAADVA/EjJXLXCzT3IBqNBw6ycqxDnGl0ROKdPngCLcB/s640/DSC05442.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Houses in Kalap. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">July was another month for some serious and enjoyable
history and Archaeology. We again travelled with </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/heritageinsights4U/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Heritage Insights</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> to the 1500
year old cave structures of Ajanta and Ellora. Words fail to describe the
stupendous beauty of Kailasa, the largest monolith temple in the world. Every
inch of the temple is sheer poetry in stone. We also took the same route that a
British Cavalry soldier named John Smith took in 1819 when he discovered the
Ajanta caves where 2000 year old paintings on stone still continue to dazzle
people.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hv3dGqsUwro/WGD3us6MtJI/AAAAAAAADVM/8rpU6WU4c2wMFxWOHpFfCFvF7xm5oAA2gCLcB/s1600/Cave%2Bentrance%2Bin%2BAjanta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hv3dGqsUwro/WGD3us6MtJI/AAAAAAAADVM/8rpU6WU4c2wMFxWOHpFfCFvF7xm5oAA2gCLcB/s640/Cave%2Bentrance%2Bin%2BAjanta.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">An entrance to a cave temple in Ajanta. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4uXva1a47eQ/WGD3uK3nxrI/AAAAAAAADVE/w273IooquFMQtV77LobjPKuAdribJip8ACLcB/s1600/DSC05654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4uXva1a47eQ/WGD3uK3nxrI/AAAAAAAADVE/w273IooquFMQtV77LobjPKuAdribJip8ACLcB/s640/DSC05654.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The magnificent Kailasa cave temple- the biggest monolith in the world. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UD1z4HcWNm0/WGD3uKXiNdI/AAAAAAAADVI/7goKpi3uPeggdnlrRbGW-jG8O1KWJEQ4gCLcB/s1600/P1110710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UD1z4HcWNm0/WGD3uKXiNdI/AAAAAAAADVI/7goKpi3uPeggdnlrRbGW-jG8O1KWJEQ4gCLcB/s640/P1110710.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The inscription of John Smith who discovered Ajanta caves in 1819.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Soon after this trip, I attended a 3 day seminar on ancient
Temple Architecture conducted by Heritage Insights. The erudite Dr. Shrinivas
Padigar enlightened us in a lucid manner about the development of temple
architecture since the last 2000 years and the different aspects of its style.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xKwhOSXdht0/WGD39-1r30I/AAAAAAAADVU/ykwt5GtpHX08OmJI7XDozFIQJDPdC16AwCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160807_094513372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xKwhOSXdht0/WGD39-1r30I/AAAAAAAADVU/ykwt5GtpHX08OmJI7XDozFIQJDPdC16AwCLcB/s640/IMG_20160807_094513372.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Dr Shrinivas Padigar enlightening us on ancient temple architecture. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">August saw us visit Puttaparthi and then we spent 3 days in
Bangalore, exploring old, traditional eateries in the city. Went around the old
markets in Basavanagudi to take in the vibrant colors, smells and sounds. The change
of weather in Bangalore left me with a bad sore throat which again took a month
to recover.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oxa_iFYq-DQ/WGD4Gwbg74I/AAAAAAAADVY/ZPdOLaaOMn0yUM9JXZ9nbdSQOj7pQ1cwgCLcB/s1600/DSC06123-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oxa_iFYq-DQ/WGD4Gwbg74I/AAAAAAAADVY/ZPdOLaaOMn0yUM9JXZ9nbdSQOj7pQ1cwgCLcB/s640/DSC06123-resized.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The melt in the mouth dosa in CTR, Bangalore. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKlwbrgkMNI/WGD5GxVL0QI/AAAAAAAADVs/PDSkdp5EQ9clSV9RrU5Zypr3E-0eqfdVQCLcB/s1600/DSC06139-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKlwbrgkMNI/WGD5GxVL0QI/AAAAAAAADVs/PDSkdp5EQ9clSV9RrU5Zypr3E-0eqfdVQCLcB/s640/DSC06139-resized.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Take your pick from the 100 varieties of snacks. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Right in the beginning of the year, I had kept October as a free month with no travel, because there was Durga Puja in the first week of the month and Diwali at the end, so I wanted to be home and celebrate with my husband.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r9_n1wEhrCU/WGD5Gujpf2I/AAAAAAAADVo/JGwuUOVy5q8itnetXIHaDh_sK4g6LCO6ACLcB/s1600/DSC06153-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r9_n1wEhrCU/WGD5Gujpf2I/AAAAAAAADVo/JGwuUOVy5q8itnetXIHaDh_sK4g6LCO6ACLcB/s640/DSC06153-resized.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bright flowers in the market. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I had plans for September of volunteering in a farm in a
place from my childhood dreams, but again that was not to be. But turns out
everything that happens is for oneâs best. I had not recovered from my throat
infection and my husband too was down with flu. Had the trip happened I would
have been away for almost 20 days. So, I am happy in hindsight, that I was resting at home and also present for my husband.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gLQl0gWhsB0/WGD5KIz1aiI/AAAAAAAADVw/VLxORF0lfuQdFd4C7QKZhFV6Y5dw76hxwCLcB/s1600/DSC06172-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gLQl0gWhsB0/WGD5KIz1aiI/AAAAAAAADVw/VLxORF0lfuQdFd4C7QKZhFV6Y5dw76hxwCLcB/s640/DSC06172-resized.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We found a Veena making workshop. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We went to Goa in November for a friendâs wedding. Some
people would be annoyed if I say that Goa is over hyped. Itâs too touristy for
my taste, or maybe I havenât discovered the less touristy places there. While
we didnât go around much, the high point of the trip was the wedding itself. My
dear friend had chosen a perfect venue for his wedding, by the sea. With the music
of the waves crashing on the rocks, the soulful rendition of the Shehnai by a
very talented musician, the moon above accompanied by the Vedic chants as the
couple took their vows made for a surreal experience. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CjTH034V0Sw/WGD5qF_AzBI/AAAAAAAADV4/x9vn9Jlj8XU1Bccmvrhd2r2ZSe-EYMW9wCLcB/s1600/DSC06244-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CjTH034V0Sw/WGD5qF_AzBI/AAAAAAAADV4/x9vn9Jlj8XU1Bccmvrhd2r2ZSe-EYMW9wCLcB/s640/DSC06244-resized.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The venue of the wedding. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Another sudden trip in November was to Guledgudda to meet
the weavers of Khun and Ilkal and then a heritage trail to Badami, Pattadakkal
( a 1500 years old UNESCO World Heritage Site), Aihole, Gadag and Lakkundi to
marvel at ancient temples and their architecture. While I am yet write about
this power packed trip, </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/12/in-search-of-weavers-of-khun.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">I did manage to write a post on Khun</span></a>.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8blwRAQheU/WGD59iICA1I/AAAAAAAADWA/yBOVfcH8mmUPR7ZHfeT82oNfsMemhyjcQCLcB/s1600/DSC06557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8blwRAQheU/WGD59iICA1I/AAAAAAAADWA/yBOVfcH8mmUPR7ZHfeT82oNfsMemhyjcQCLcB/s640/DSC06557.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A weaver weaving Khun. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--FXTzwbyez8/WGD59zeGQ7I/AAAAAAAADWE/G-L8NFsaNBkzhfGf4L2OEIhJuohQXBQMwCLcB/s1600/DSC06583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--FXTzwbyez8/WGD59zeGQ7I/AAAAAAAADWE/G-L8NFsaNBkzhfGf4L2OEIhJuohQXBQMwCLcB/s640/DSC06583.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Ilkal saree. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> This month, we attended a wedding in Rishikesh, on the banks of the river Ganga and then headed to Shimla and then spent a day in Chandigarh. This was again a gastronomical delight to sample various winter delicacies up north.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PL3q6JY7Em4/WGD7Q0GXNpI/AAAAAAAADWY/W4ifdkDD_2IJF7Em5o6RVQ2-RT0YADQjACLcB/s1600/DSC07238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PL3q6JY7Em4/WGD7Q0GXNpI/AAAAAAAADWY/W4ifdkDD_2IJF7Em5o6RVQ2-RT0YADQjACLcB/s640/DSC07238.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The famous and delectable gulab jamun at Baljee's in Shimla. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwoBw6qZdtk/WGD7QzDINpI/AAAAAAAADWc/BlWauX05QmEYQq0v78P7uPEFMYM18jZ1gCLcB/s1600/DSC07316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwoBw6qZdtk/WGD7QzDINpI/AAAAAAAADWc/BlWauX05QmEYQq0v78P7uPEFMYM18jZ1gCLcB/s640/DSC07316.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">One can't go to Chandigarh and not have rajma chawal ( rice and kidney beans).</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgzyIjiO8nk/WGD7QYpGBGI/AAAAAAAADWU/O-Vrmq3ZshAq63oPCV85FTJr-M8kK7J-QCLcB/s1600/DSC07376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgzyIjiO8nk/WGD7QYpGBGI/AAAAAAAADWU/O-Vrmq3ZshAq63oPCV85FTJr-M8kK7J-QCLcB/s640/DSC07376.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The scrumptious winter speciality- makai ki roti and sarson ka saag (corn flour flat bread and mustard leaves curry). </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The year is coming to an end and I have given myself a good
score for travel although not for blogging regularly. As the sun sets on this
year, I await the sunrise on the new year and look forward to the amazing
places where the winds will take me. </span><br />
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-58089092118994348632016-12-01T23:09:00.005-08:002021-02-17T03:47:27.743-08:00In Search of the Weavers of Khun.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tqEO-skXulk/WEAg5d_R4BI/AAAAAAAADNg/QXYqMkFfangCcBLd8p-j6QVSZoUqe1uYACLcB/s1600/DSC06453.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tqEO-skXulk/WEAg5d_R4BI/AAAAAAAADNg/QXYqMkFfangCcBLd8p-j6QVSZoUqe1uYACLcB/s640/DSC06453.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Khun fabrics come in a variety of bright colours and patterns. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Drive across
the countryside in Maharashtra and north Karnataka and you will see beautiful
rural women going about their daily work clad in beautiful </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2017/09/the-weavers-of-ilkal-saree.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Ilkal saris</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> and a
particular kind of self-designed bordered blouse made of the fabric called
Khun, also called Khana in Karnataka.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">While I did not get a perfect shot of a traditionally clad woman in a Khun blouse, I have taken this picture from this </span><a href="https://preetirathod.wordpress.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">blog</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wv5fLldnfPA/WEEcq8K_Y6I/AAAAAAAADQU/ObhX8sgSiJcrNwZ_eTNDa_etfkQ3COOBgCLcB/s1600/milkmaid.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wv5fLldnfPA/WEEcq8K_Y6I/AAAAAAAADQU/ObhX8sgSiJcrNwZ_eTNDa_etfkQ3COOBgCLcB/s640/milkmaid.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">This beautiful woman with a big, bold bindi and stunning nose ring, called 'nath' has worn a khun blouse. Photo taken from </span><a href="https://preetirathod.wordpress.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">While my
next post will be on the </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2017/09/the-weavers-of-ilkal-saree.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Ilkal sari weavers</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, in this post I will dwell upon Khun, which has
come to be my favourite fabric. My associative memory with Khun has been with
the bygone era in Maharashtra, which I havenât experienced, but which has a
particular sanctity seen through my urbanised eyes. Of women clad in bright
saris, beautiful Khun blouses, wearing the crescent shaped bindi on their
foreheads, bold women comfortable in their own skin.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">My cook too
wears Khun blouses on a daily basis, and while Pune markets are flooded with
Khun fabrics, it is only last year that I decided that I must have Khun as part
of my wardrobe. So I went on a Khun rampage and bought some meters of cloth in
various colours, and got some sari blouses, crop tops and skirts stitched with
them. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XETviN_lrs0/WEAk6oai6mI/AAAAAAAADN0/eFo8-zemh6wOzYePzLarIx7tatOJ6GClQCLcB/s1600/IMG_20161030_213848590_HDR%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XETviN_lrs0/WEAk6oai6mI/AAAAAAAADN0/eFo8-zemh6wOzYePzLarIx7tatOJ6GClQCLcB/s640/IMG_20161030_213848590_HDR%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="360" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Wearing a Khun blouse with a Kalamkari saree for Durga puja.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cwfd664j744/WEEO09rtkXI/AAAAAAAADQE/Xt1PuL1EASMBiWoxufzBfjinHMoO27QvACLcB/s1600/_DSC0739.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cwfd664j744/WEEO09rtkXI/AAAAAAAADQE/Xt1PuL1EASMBiWoxufzBfjinHMoO27QvACLcB/s640/_DSC0739.jpg" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Wearing a Khun crop top in Badami. Photo by Vaijayanti Chakravarthy.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Given our
fast paced city lives, we seldom pause to ponder over the people who have
contributed to making a piece of fabric and clothing. Even if the clothes are
machine made, there are people who choose the colours, design the cloth, and
operate the machines. And in the case of Khun, where it is still pre-dominantly
handloom, I couldnât help wondering about the people who created this beautiful
fabric. In all the shops I enquired, the shop owners werenât sure where it was
made, guessing it may be in Kolhapur or in Karnataka. But I wanted a specific
lead, so I could go and meet the weavers.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"> </span><i><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2017/09/the-weavers-of-ilkal-saree.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may like to read my post on the Ilkal sari weavers</span></a></i><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JxYao4naNzw/WEAj8k8NzVI/AAAAAAAADNw/AgPnF1RyN7YQw9RGn49vCT3Vy6xjtatlwCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160807-WA0001%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JxYao4naNzw/WEAj8k8NzVI/AAAAAAAADNw/AgPnF1RyN7YQw9RGn49vCT3Vy6xjtatlwCLcB/s640/IMG-20160807-WA0001%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Wearing a Khun skirt and posing with journalist Shefali Vaidya.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Finally, in
a seminar I attended, Shefali Vaidya, a noted journalist, who is also a Khun
enthusiast told me itâs made in Guledgudda and soon after, a lady at a stall in
a handloom exhibition gave me the contact number of the person from whom she
sources the fabric.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oVu_vSG_W-M/WEAnriU773I/AAAAAAAADOA/QXpuJNXG64QFTThX_FFuV65E6S4PFuJMQCLcB/s1600/DSC06524.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oVu_vSG_W-M/WEAnriU773I/AAAAAAAADOA/QXpuJNXG64QFTThX_FFuV65E6S4PFuJMQCLcB/s640/DSC06524.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The lanes of Guledgudda.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I
immediately called up another friend, a long-time Khun lover asking if she
could accompany me. Tickets were booked, leads were contacted and off we both went
in search of Khun.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ufGgCbwvesQ/WEAoFriN17I/AAAAAAAADOE/CJYFHO_G_1AgwHt4FziUljO-7m7C_vzsQCLcB/s1600/DSC06447.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ufGgCbwvesQ/WEAoFriN17I/AAAAAAAADOE/CJYFHO_G_1AgwHt4FziUljO-7m7C_vzsQCLcB/s640/DSC06447.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sampath Rathi with khun and Ilkal saree. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We first
stopped at the home-cum-office of Sampath Rathi, who is a wholesaler of Khun
and Ilkal sarees. His grandfather had migrated from Rajasthan to Guledgudda in
1924 and made this place his home. He has hundreds of weavers who buy the yarn
from him and give back ready Khun and sarees and he charges a margin from the
weavers. His cotton yarn mainly comes from Hindupur in Andhra Pradesh, silk
yarn from Bangalore and artificial silk from Gujarat. So this works well for
independent weavers who donât have to get into logistics, but just buy
whichever yarn they want and give him the ready cloth, which he then distributes
and sells in various cities. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: medium;"><i><span style="color: #444444;">You may also like my post on </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/08/journey-of-handwoven-piece-of-fabric.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Handloom weavers of Bhujodi</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uxRnvMr_tSA/WEAoMh18JnI/AAAAAAAADOI/fZAyQ4E3KVcKu4xrk5t6b7UkShJk7gIKQCLcB/s1600/DSC06450.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uxRnvMr_tSA/WEAoMh18JnI/AAAAAAAADOI/fZAyQ4E3KVcKu4xrk5t6b7UkShJk7gIKQCLcB/s640/DSC06450.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Khun comes in different materials and colours. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">Khun comes
in combinations of silk and cotton, polyester and cotton and artificial silk and
cotton. And in innumerable designs, motifs and patterns on the cloth.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lq3-OXPtyjc/WEAoT-70S9I/AAAAAAAADOM/fOlJrD_u1ow1YF4jZWUDD2OwijiXtNWYgCLcB/s1600/DSC06307.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lq3-OXPtyjc/WEAoT-70S9I/AAAAAAAADOM/fOlJrD_u1ow1YF4jZWUDD2OwijiXtNWYgCLcB/s640/DSC06307.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A lady weaving Khun. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I had read
one of Shefali Vaidyaâs posts, where she mentions that Khun is called so,
because âkhunâ means sugar and this is a fabric worn by women in the sugar cane
belts in Maharashtra and Karnataka. Sampath gave me a more technical meaning.
He said khun is a unit of measurement. Khun means half a meter, so two Khuns
make a meter of cloth. So one roll of Khun cloth has 44 Khuns, i.e, 22 meters.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmAergsW7hw/WEAod3PurzI/AAAAAAAADOU/5tGa1NK3DY4EIEuf6TmNu_KhrzDSOSDDQCLcB/s1600/DSC06480.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fmAergsW7hw/WEAod3PurzI/AAAAAAAADOU/5tGa1NK3DY4EIEuf6TmNu_KhrzDSOSDDQCLcB/s640/DSC06480.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A hearty lunch at Sampath Rathi's home.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I asked him
how old Khun is, when did it start? In
textile history there are stories of weavers migrating to other geographies, to
escape oppression of invaders (thatâs more likely in India due to the Islamic
invasions), or to escape drought or famine, and then combining their own weaves
with that of the weaves of the new place and forming a new one. Did anything
like that happen with Khun weavers? He had no answer. He said this is the first
time that someone had asked him this question and said that it is at least more
than a 100 years old, based on general knowledge of the area.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-velLlJIITCI/WEAoaF8R_7I/AAAAAAAADOQ/o_DMlxmXRrkCW4kE-ahzDIYCwjLo0E7yACEw/s1600/DSC06495.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-velLlJIITCI/WEAoaF8R_7I/AAAAAAAADOQ/o_DMlxmXRrkCW4kE-ahzDIYCwjLo0E7yACEw/s640/DSC06495.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Brothers, Motilal and Ambalal Ghanshyam Shah Chavan.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EnOa4qptd-c/WEAovQi5M9I/AAAAAAAADOg/hw8qvuF-6I4M4r2Ee5lMUx2S9rh4OHSRQCLcB/s1600/DSC06494.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EnOa4qptd-c/WEAovQi5M9I/AAAAAAAADOg/hw8qvuF-6I4M4r2Ee5lMUx2S9rh4OHSRQCLcB/s640/DSC06494.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The dyes arranged on shelves. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Puym5KGFeJw/WEApEJ8ESgI/AAAAAAAADO4/iWMxCGauCrE2tTlMKfBRxLmQyysF_JcewCLcB/s1600/DSC06509.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Puym5KGFeJw/WEApEJ8ESgI/AAAAAAAADO4/iWMxCGauCrE2tTlMKfBRxLmQyysF_JcewCLcB/s640/DSC06509.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Un-dyed yarn.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">What makes
Khun unique is that it is the only fabric which is primarily made only for
saree blouses, hence the original width of the fabric is 31 inches, although
now weavers have increased the width to one meter.</span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We feasted our eyes on the numerous bright shades of Khun</span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">and Ilkals and also bought some. </span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 107%;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fuw8tddWjP0/WEAovaDISFI/AAAAAAAADOk/bNqMhSB1Q0UQzcf-zLMkhFMQ_3O4pmyfQCLcB/s1600/DSC06501.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fuw8tddWjP0/WEAovaDISFI/AAAAAAAADOk/bNqMhSB1Q0UQzcf-zLMkhFMQ_3O4pmyfQCLcB/s640/DSC06501.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">To get this shade, they mixed, 100 gms red and 10 gms yellow. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C3FjrS8Pa20/WEAo6mWXpTI/AAAAAAAADO0/dAn4jWIzBsskrMLbWLaNypKE0aLXWZ2kwCLcB/s1600/DSC06502.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C3FjrS8Pa20/WEAo6mWXpTI/AAAAAAAADO0/dAn4jWIzBsskrMLbWLaNypKE0aLXWZ2kwCLcB/s640/DSC06502.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Getting ready to dip the yarn in the cauldron filled with dye. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was
already 1 pm by then. Sampath casually said that after lunch in his home we
could go and meet the dyers. I was filled with gratitude. He did not wait till
we asked him where we could have lunch. We were just travelers who had stopped
by to meet him and buy a few things. Yet, he asked us to join his family for
lunch. When I thanked his father, he merely said, âAtithi Devo Bhavaâ, the
ancient Indian belief and custom which means, âTreat guests as Godâ. Thatâs
the spirit of India, which still thrives in the villages and warms my heart.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vqJ-GVZaVx8/WEAo6p1h-EI/AAAAAAAADOw/CGDED_mzYZstAQ4PZwCGQADrmP4vAOergCLcB/s1600/DSC06503.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vqJ-GVZaVx8/WEAo6p1h-EI/AAAAAAAADOw/CGDED_mzYZstAQ4PZwCGQADrmP4vAOergCLcB/s640/DSC06503.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">There it goes.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsoInhKFJSk/WEAqXbi_mmI/AAAAAAAADPI/CuJJR3L3XqsWGglPnGNc8Q0HmDjgfgxXgCLcB/s1600/DSC06498.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsoInhKFJSk/WEAqXbi_mmI/AAAAAAAADPI/CuJJR3L3XqsWGglPnGNc8Q0HmDjgfgxXgCLcB/s640/DSC06498.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Wringing the yarn to remove water. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After a
hearty lunch, we visited the house of Motilal and Ambalal Ghanshyam Shah Chavan,
brothers who are weavers as well as dyers. On the way to their house, we could hear the clickety-clack of handloom and well as power loom from the houses all around. They were in the process of dyeing
yarn with bright red. They are the two out of the only five dyers left in the
whole of Guledgudda. Their daughter promptly brought us some tea, and with
their limited Hindi, they managed to explain the process of dyeing. Water is heated
in a huge cauldron at a temperature of about 40 to 50 degrees Celsius. There
were dye powders which are mixed to get the desired shade and colour. When we
went they were dyeing a crimson red for which they mixed 10 gms turmeric yellow
in 100 gms red dye. Interestingly the colour gets absorbed by the tarn and the
water itself remains colorless. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ed30J3ApjNU/WEAqiaKxtuI/AAAAAAAADPM/4eyibvuN3m0PCQQ2XgpeGUq6zJxdzQh_gCLcB/s1600/DSC06506.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ed30J3ApjNU/WEAqiaKxtuI/AAAAAAAADPM/4eyibvuN3m0PCQQ2XgpeGUq6zJxdzQh_gCLcB/s640/DSC06506.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The steel dryer meant for yarn. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yCHunSNMtMY/WEAqsd1wdeI/AAAAAAAADPQ/_AV3A0HvfNszOaldTi17PSqDJW32b-oDQCLcB/s1600/DSC06511.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yCHunSNMtMY/WEAqsd1wdeI/AAAAAAAADPQ/_AV3A0HvfNszOaldTi17PSqDJW32b-oDQCLcB/s640/DSC06511.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">How the yarn is separated to prevent it from getting entangled. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zaugx-Q6eKo/WEArQfOrkMI/AAAAAAAADPU/zV-DHYc-31YMtR9Yg23HArzDiCyQllKeQCLcB/s1600/DSC06488.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zaugx-Q6eKo/WEArQfOrkMI/AAAAAAAADPU/zV-DHYc-31YMtR9Yg23HArzDiCyQllKeQCLcB/s640/DSC06488.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Khun being made on a power loom.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">The yarn is then hung on a steel rod and then
dipped into the coloured water. It takes around 30 minutes for the colour to
latch on to the yarn. After half hour, the yarn is squeezed and put in a dryer
to quicken the drying. The dried yarn is then neatly combed and gathered
together by hand to be used in a handloom or power loom. The Chavan brothers
had a power loom running inside the house, so we went and took a look at it. The
power loom makes around 20 meters of Khun per day whereas it takes around 15 days to
make the same on handloom. Thatâs another reason why the handloom industry is
struggling to survive. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lK5mOGmxm-o/WEArko4EnBI/AAAAAAAADPY/_T4Nij5gd4Q2IiRh9GggLpL5GR42ArgFwCLcB/s1600/DSC06540.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lK5mOGmxm-o/WEArko4EnBI/AAAAAAAADPY/_T4Nij5gd4Q2IiRh9GggLpL5GR42ArgFwCLcB/s640/DSC06540.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Brothers, Siddharamappa and Jagannatha Mallagi.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We thanked
the Chavan brothers and proceeded to our next stop, to meet the Mallagi
brothers, both weavers of Khun. Both Siddharamappa and Jagannatha Mallagi have
been weaving Khun since their teenage years, having learnt the craft from their
father. They, too, didnât know the history of Khunn and estimated it to be over
200 years old. They have around 6 looms in their house and all family members
do weaving. All, except the next generation who have IT jobs in Bangalore.
According to the Mallagi brothers, there is no bright future for Khun, as the
next young generation migrates to cities in search of better pay and also
because weaving is hard work and requires one to master the skill.. There are
currently around 4000 weavers of Khun in Guledgudda alone, a huge decline from
the 50,000 weavers in the early 2000âs. The average age of the Khun weavers is
above 40 years.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qKcwb_ex2GQ/WEArr8ni4oI/AAAAAAAADPc/8iId-TjsfNouL4ouUkyWlQ6Odp33Yq2VQCLcB/s1600/DSC06529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qKcwb_ex2GQ/WEArr8ni4oI/AAAAAAAADPc/8iId-TjsfNouL4ouUkyWlQ6Odp33Yq2VQCLcB/s640/DSC06529.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Their home-cum-workshop.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I observed them working on the handloom and in the stillness of the house, the rhythmic taps and clacks of the handloom seemed poetic and musical. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Mallagis
specialize in pure silk Khun and use only natural dyes which are chemical free.
Thus, the pricing is relatively higher, since the dyes are sourced from various
places. The indigo dye, for example, is grown in Andhra Pradesh, which sends
the raw material to Germany, where it is made into powder form and sent back to
India. I wondered why there are no factories to do this in India !</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gZQzt6VXxiw/WEAr3C_3RbI/AAAAAAAADPk/afxb_mQXPMgeNIxzIDubp1aq7u1UNM0gQCLcB/s1600/DSC06537.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gZQzt6VXxiw/WEAr3C_3RbI/AAAAAAAADPk/afxb_mQXPMgeNIxzIDubp1aq7u1UNM0gQCLcB/s640/DSC06537.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Mallagis weave Khun only in pure silk and use natural dyes. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MjvYBRB100c/WEAr2oZ6fdI/AAAAAAAADPg/GgJtJeFn3DEZrR-EvJVVAT2nK4TggYseQCLcB/s1600/DSC06547.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MjvYBRB100c/WEAr2oZ6fdI/AAAAAAAADPg/GgJtJeFn3DEZrR-EvJVVAT2nK4TggYseQCLcB/s640/DSC06547.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Displaying the various colours. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A skilled weaver weaves around 3 meters a day
and Rs 600 per day is the labor charge if they have weavers from outside the
family. They manage to weave around 40 meters per month.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8HKpJeM1zCU/WEAr-iZyNBI/AAAAAAAADPo/BMiBZeM9qtAkUJLXEjPfwlcAN4M8Jlx7ACLcB/s1600/DSC06557.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8HKpJeM1zCU/WEAr-iZyNBI/AAAAAAAADPo/BMiBZeM9qtAkUJLXEjPfwlcAN4M8Jlx7ACLcB/s640/DSC06557.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Such a lovely colour Khun being woven.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large; line-height: 107%;">There was
such a serene look on the faces of the Mallagi brothers. I asked them if they
were happy doing this. They replied saying that weaving is what they have done
all their lives and this is what they know, so they are happy. I could sense
the contentment too on their faces, as I sipped on the fresh lemonade they
offered. Here, too, we bought some meters of fabric and thanked them profusely
for their time and hospitality.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lHg3GZhz3YY/WEAsE_UEZnI/AAAAAAAADPs/ls4GQym7H9oTNVkFVOxl9YpmjU9iPPciACLcB/s1600/DSC06554.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lHg3GZhz3YY/WEAsE_UEZnI/AAAAAAAADPs/ls4GQym7H9oTNVkFVOxl9YpmjU9iPPciACLcB/s640/DSC06554.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I got my pick fresh off the loom :-) </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="color: #444444;">I was inspired to illustrate my own version of one of Jamini Roy's paintings to represent Maharashtrian women in Ilkal and Khun with the crescent moon bindi and 'nath :-) Here it is. </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/PurpleSoulArt/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">You may visit my art page, Purple Soul</span><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;">I am taking orders for prints of this work. Please contact me on priya@purplesoul.org for the same. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UmNP-dgJ4Og/WkyUOUFsG2I/AAAAAAAAEPc/cnnloGCKbyEeYxW6YZ8UQ3yJfq5O5avHwCLcBGAs/s1600/Ilkal%2BKhun%2BJamini%2BRoy%2Bsign%2Bcopy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="948" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UmNP-dgJ4Og/WkyUOUFsG2I/AAAAAAAAEPc/cnnloGCKbyEeYxW6YZ8UQ3yJfq5O5avHwCLcBGAs/s640/Ilkal%2BKhun%2BJamini%2BRoy%2Bsign%2Bcopy.jpg" width="539" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My version of Jamini Roy's women in Khun and Ilkal.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I wish more
designers take up Khun as a project and convert this beautiful fabric into interesting
contemporary wear, which will find a wider audience. While browsing, I found this </span><a href="http://www.lookinggoodfeelingfab.com/2013/12/the-perfect-indian-party.html" style="font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; font-size: x-large;" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">blog</span></a><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> with an interesting take on Khun, in the form of a trouser. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ty2f7G4Yv_s/WEEduafTsSI/AAAAAAAADQc/K6ZjJXs9oL0lhn8a8l4P-cIZnBjHzeBKACLcB/s1600/32.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ty2f7G4Yv_s/WEEduafTsSI/AAAAAAAADQc/K6ZjJXs9oL0lhn8a8l4P-cIZnBjHzeBKACLcB/s640/32.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Khun stitched into a trouser. A brilliant idea:-). Photo take from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.lookinggoodfeelingfab.com/2013/12/the-perfect-indian-party.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A friend, Vaijayanti, also a Khun enthusiast, wore a kurta made of Khun during the trip :-)</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BzSF8SmirS0/WEEoSlZU_oI/AAAAAAAADQs/1YyEAQQ4BJM1_QMm2Qzzije4rQ-4G1QeACLcB/s1600/IMG-20161125-WA0000.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BzSF8SmirS0/WEEoSlZU_oI/AAAAAAAADQs/1YyEAQQ4BJM1_QMm2Qzzije4rQ-4G1QeACLcB/s640/IMG-20161125-WA0000.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kurta made of Khun. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You may also buy directly from the Mallagis and from Sampath Rathi. Their contact details are given below. For those who are buying from the weavers/artisans for the first time, please </span><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">DO NOT BARGAIN</span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">. I'm assuming others who buy from weavers, would not need that instruction as they would be sensitive to the work of the weavers and artisans and do not bargain over the price. The weavers put in a lot of work and time, not to mention years of expertise in creating a piece of cloth, so let's support them by paying whatever they ask for. You will need to know Hindi, to communicate with them. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sampath Rathi: +91- 9448776400</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mallagis: +91- 9008484671</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We travelled from Pune to Badami by train, stayed at KSTDC Badami and hired a cab to go to Guledgudda, which is around 30 kms away. We also visited the ancient temple complexes of Pattadakkal, Aihole and Badami which I will be writing about soon. </span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Edit 1: September 2019</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I received an email from the publication house that manages the Ministry of External Affairs, Govt. of India's magazine called India Perspectives. They wanted to use my photos in the August 2019 issue of the magazine. Here are the pictures. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, times new roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, times new roman, serif; font-size: large;">Edit 2: February 2021</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, times new roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, times new roman, serif; font-size: large;">I received a message from a fashion designer yesterday who is mentioned in the below article and she accused me of using her images without due credits. I explained to her that the publisher has written the article and used my photos with permission (as well as hers). But just to be clear, I have blurred her images and re-uploaded the images which show only my photos clearly. I have also circled my name where the credits are given. The first page of the article is uploaded so that the heading of the article is known. Hope this leaves no room for confusion.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, times new roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgb4Zb5ikv8/YC0BgoPNKBI/AAAAAAAAGFY/-xsmSbEzsbU_U-WvaKzt9Z2k7rYVeavTwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1573/Page1-blurred.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="1573" height="368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jgb4Zb5ikv8/YC0BgoPNKBI/AAAAAAAAGFY/-xsmSbEzsbU_U-WvaKzt9Z2k7rYVeavTwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h368/Page1-blurred.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WV8A0ieT2qI/YC0BkSC6meI/AAAAAAAAGFc/ekrar9ZvqUw4hwNaFHtWSvaQFAvaTN2WACLcBGAsYHQ/s1571/Page2-blurred.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1571" height="364" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WV8A0ieT2qI/YC0BkSC6meI/AAAAAAAAGFc/ekrar9ZvqUw4hwNaFHtWSvaQFAvaTN2WACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h364/Page2-blurred.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, times new roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Facebook</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com98tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-10203234324658029892016-11-18T23:30:00.000-08:002016-11-18T23:30:01.432-08:00Dreams and Reality<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I'm sure each one of us had experienced this at least once. You dream while asleep and the dream feels so real. Say you dream eating a bar of chocolate, and in the dream (a non-physical state), you get the taste of chocolate, you swallow it, you hold it in your hand...everything feels so real. You wake up and realize it was a dream but so vivid and real! We've heard and read about this world being an illusion, and so it is! As I'm typing out this note, what if I'm actually dreaming this. And as you read this, what if it's in your dream!! Just as in one's dream one is aware that one is dreaming, I sometimes just sit quiet and experience the dream and instantly I feel zoned out as if I'm observing my life in 3rd person!!Look at your hands, legs or at the mirror and be aware that it's a dream. How does that feel?</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">In stressful and conflicting situations, I've experimented consciously to remind myself that I'm dreaming and immediately the stress mitigates. Whenever i try this, in my mind I see myself throwing my head up and laughing at how seriously I've taken these silly situations. In the movie Inception, the concluding scene is my favourite. Leonardo spins the top which is to topple if it is not an illusion, but it goes on spinning signifying that it is a dream state. It's the same with our lives too.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Sometimes I wonder what is Reality? The moment there is duality there is illusion. And the state of non-duality is very difficult to imagine because when you think that itself is an illusion! Earlier people believed that the earth was flat and that the Sun goes around Earth. People those days believed that was reality until scientists who came later gave evidence that it was otherwise. What if whatever we know to be reality now, is not actually real? It really shakes up rigid dogmas and opinions we have about ourselves and others and of everything in general.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I was reading Dr Michael Newton's book "Destiny of Souls", where a woman who was severely abused by her husband on earth, after death moves on to the spirit world to realize that her husband had taken on the role of the abuser, so she could learn lessons in a pre-arranged contract and they were actually soul mates. What if what appears is not real? What about people we don't get along with or difficult situations which are not what they appear to be? It does change your perspective on just about everything that has happened in history. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">When I was about 6-7 years of age, I had a recurring nightmare. In the dream I would be climbing a flight of stairs and at the top would be a scary looking ghost/person/entity who would be harm/smother me. This dream continued for a few months. One day I decided in the waking state that if that if I had the dream again, I would fight back (in the dream). And yes, this time again I was climbing the stairs and at the top stood that malicious entity. I remember reminding myself in the dream that I have to fight back. So, chanting the Gayatri mantra, I lunged forward at the entity, fought with it and I never had the nightmare again! Somehow the wisdom of that dream is surfacing now. All this is a dream and we have nothing to fear or lose after all! We have tasks to be accomplished, but we mess things up when it take it seriously and for real.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The best thing for me is to sit back and see the dream unfold! :-)</span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-64877411326861761672016-10-26T05:06:00.001-07:002016-10-26T05:10:21.682-07:00The Lodhi Garden Tombs<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KIwIfFS3Exk/WBCKe2MfM9I/AAAAAAAADIU/8f_qQwbKYpAWBJD7PyK_Y2cmtqk4F81oACLcB/s1600/Sheesh%2Bgumbad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KIwIfFS3Exk/WBCKe2MfM9I/AAAAAAAADIU/8f_qQwbKYpAWBJD7PyK_Y2cmtqk4F81oACLcB/s640/Sheesh%2Bgumbad.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sheesh Gumbad from a distance.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">I had been following the </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Intach-Heritage-Walks-199442496810218/?fref=ts" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">INTACH Delhi FB page</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> for some time,
so when we visited </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/03/visit-to-115-years-old-kulfi-shop-in.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Delhi</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> in March this year, I got the opportunity to attend
one of their Heritage walks. They conduct walks every weekend and the weekend
that we were there, the Lodhi garden walk was scheduled.</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aweIEpMEQw4/WBCKvBZb8wI/AAAAAAAADIY/vL2N0EV4H7oYtR2kRT5_tJDR_aY5kWTHQCLcB/s1600/DSC04178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aweIEpMEQw4/WBCKvBZb8wI/AAAAAAAADIY/vL2N0EV4H7oYtR2kRT5_tJDR_aY5kWTHQCLcB/s640/DSC04178.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Tomb of Mohemmed Shah Sayyid.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">During our two and a half years stay in Gurgaon, which is 30
kms from Delhi, we had visited the Lodhi gardens many times and of course seen
monuments there, without knowing their significance. This walk totally changed
our perspective on what we had seen multiple times but knew little about. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XEAgr2UR_zg/WBCSl7XpeAI/AAAAAAAADIs/qL-ebbyeQ3Y5vTJa4Bz_u9IDahMg-BMqACLcB/s1600/DSC04179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XEAgr2UR_zg/WBCSl7XpeAI/AAAAAAAADIs/qL-ebbyeQ3Y5vTJa4Bz_u9IDahMg-BMqACLcB/s640/DSC04179.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The chattris on the dome. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RTlNRY2YHCM/WBCS38mpgkI/AAAAAAAADI4/wNkK5XHowAQ6FWeKxGr6i7heHKyi7jmQQCLcB/s1600/DSC04159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RTlNRY2YHCM/WBCS38mpgkI/AAAAAAAADI4/wNkK5XHowAQ6FWeKxGr6i7heHKyi7jmQQCLcB/s640/DSC04159.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Cosmic star which connects the dead to Heaven.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwXS8CZjl60/WBCS3x9cmiI/AAAAAAAADI0/AH3M3i_r6xQ65oShQMcVoOwplE9YW3b2ACLcB/s1600/DSC04165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwXS8CZjl60/WBCS3x9cmiI/AAAAAAAADI0/AH3M3i_r6xQ65oShQMcVoOwplE9YW3b2ACLcB/s640/DSC04165.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Islamic inscriptions on the dome. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MNpXRtd-rtY/WBCS33ez6rI/AAAAAAAADIw/3ljVF9IAficrr7FqFQdoWxpWkH6AlFf7QCLcB/s1600/DSC04167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MNpXRtd-rtY/WBCS33ez6rI/AAAAAAAADIw/3ljVF9IAficrr7FqFQdoWxpWkH6AlFf7QCLcB/s640/DSC04167.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Floral motifs and inscriptions.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Lodhi garden is spread over 90 acres of undulating
lawns, jogging and cycling tracks and lined with beautiful trees and flowering
shrubs and plants. But its name derives from the fact that it is home to some
of well-known tombs from the Sayyid and more importantly, the Lodhi era, dating
back to the 15<sup>th</sup> century.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qs102OFax4E/WBCTR3qVUMI/AAAAAAAADJE/zVgDKbJR3UIkaQKjrnpKElOM0PjIREzCwCLcB/s1600/DSC04169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qs102OFax4E/WBCTR3qVUMI/AAAAAAAADJE/zVgDKbJR3UIkaQKjrnpKElOM0PjIREzCwCLcB/s640/DSC04169.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The 'kumbh' or pot shaped carving which is very Indian has been incorporated here. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQjFureTnBs/WBCTRDrdjXI/AAAAAAAADJA/a-ZOltp3FZckRMze0l0C6HluctgT1hhpQCLcB/s1600/DSC04171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQjFureTnBs/WBCTRDrdjXI/AAAAAAAADJA/a-ZOltp3FZckRMze0l0C6HluctgT1hhpQCLcB/s640/DSC04171.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Graves. The ones with the raised portion are those of men and the protrusion is called 'kalam'. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Before the Lodhi era was the Sayyidâs era when the Sayyid
dynasty ruled the area which was then known as Khairpur village. The Lodhis
then ruled over the Punjab region. The Sayyid empire was unstable with a lot of
internal conflict. They called the Lodhis to intervene and resolve the issue
promising them rewards of land and money, which didnât come through once the
work got done. So the Lodhis decided to take over the Sayyidsâ empire as a mark
of retaliation and retribution.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The area around the tombs was converted into a landscaped
garden in 1936 and was named Lady Willingdon Park, after the wife of the then
British Viceroy. It was named Lodhi Garden post-Independence and was
re-designed in 1968 by eminent architect, J.A Stein.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Although the garden is primarily dedicated to tombs from the
Lodhi dynasty, there is one tomb belonging to Muhammed Shah Sayyid of the
Sayyid dynasty. After his death in 1451 AD, the tomb was built by his son,
Alauddin Alam Shah. This structure like the other tombs in the garden were made
of Delhi quartzite, procured locally. It is a very hard stone, so very minimal
chiselling work has been done on that. The quartzite is interspersed with red sand
stone on which one finds the more intricate carving and designs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NA5JiWpLxjI/WBCWIb96f8I/AAAAAAAADKE/7oUvwS2Jy88xK2fk8ST8mIc9IhuQujo2QCLcB/s1600/DSC04230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NA5JiWpLxjI/WBCWIb96f8I/AAAAAAAADKE/7oUvwS2Jy88xK2fk8ST8mIc9IhuQujo2QCLcB/s640/DSC04230.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Bada Gumbad</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71cwUtzh5V8/WBCUSp90dGI/AAAAAAAADJg/UmwZ8VUF5xo_WO6YeMmL3-SNLKl5b5PpQCLcB/s1600/DSC04204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71cwUtzh5V8/WBCUSp90dGI/AAAAAAAADJg/UmwZ8VUF5xo_WO6YeMmL3-SNLKl5b5PpQCLcB/s640/DSC04204.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UBEKwX8bigA/WBCUWP7RE4I/AAAAAAAADJo/ir8qG_rr5zQmp_dPKqpkyv32HoxVWMk7gCLcB/s1600/DSC04212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UBEKwX8bigA/WBCUWP7RE4I/AAAAAAAADJo/ir8qG_rr5zQmp_dPKqpkyv32HoxVWMk7gCLcB/s640/DSC04212.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The decorated dome. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eHcvA6jdVjM/WBCUXSPwUbI/AAAAAAAADJs/FZ7IX2hma38N8NVuGFf7nj3PREnowDBzQCLcB/s1600/DSC04217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eHcvA6jdVjM/WBCUXSPwUbI/AAAAAAAADJs/FZ7IX2hma38N8NVuGFf7nj3PREnowDBzQCLcB/s640/DSC04217.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The intricate stucco work in the mosque.. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HMSGdOIFlNc/WBCUPZy5snI/AAAAAAAADJU/YCPDFaUu3fEswULHDugKusGOhOfByWYQQCEw/s1600/DSC04197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HMSGdOIFlNc/WBCUPZy5snI/AAAAAAAADJU/YCPDFaUu3fEswULHDugKusGOhOfByWYQQCEw/s640/DSC04197.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Notice the thick walls. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Qn8qFd3A8c/WBCUUvEfK1I/AAAAAAAADJk/v9c5OIMcpQ8fOcjDqjCtPfp8yYnpevMrgCEw/s1600/DSC04208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Qn8qFd3A8c/WBCUUvEfK1I/AAAAAAAADJk/v9c5OIMcpQ8fOcjDqjCtPfp8yYnpevMrgCEw/s640/DSC04208.JPG" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The stucco work on the walls. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Jaya Basera, who conducted the walk, pointed to some interesting aspects of architecture. The Sayyids wanted to send a message to the Hindus, that they have come to India for good and do not intend to leave like the Ghazni and Ghori, who repeatedly plundered India and stole many tons of gold, precious stones and metals. So, although Islam prohibits the representation of any life forms in sculptures and structures, they modified it subtly, to render them as an abstract representation of life forms which the Indians identified with.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HmpEo86ZnlY/WBCVkOEuuRI/AAAAAAAADJ8/N02f-p7V2BsVnYnPdvT37SY0WDfh4xzjACLcB/s1600/DSC04250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HmpEo86ZnlY/WBCVkOEuuRI/AAAAAAAADJ8/N02f-p7V2BsVnYnPdvT37SY0WDfh4xzjACLcB/s640/DSC04250.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sheesh Gumbad.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The only Sayyid era structure in Lodhi gardens and is the
tomb of Muhammed Shah Sayyid. The central main chamber is octagonal with the cenotaph of Muhammed Shah in the middle and surrounded by several other graves. It was customary for a person of importance to be buried in the center of the structure. Also, the difference between the graves for men and women are known by the raised middle vertical portion of the grave for men, also known as <i>kalam</i>. In Islam, it was tradition to bury the body with the head facing towards Mecca, which from India would be to the West. The dome above was made of intricately done stucco work and painted. There are also bands of inscription from the Quran. The structure is circular as opposed to the
square structures built by the Lodhis. The central octagonal chamber has in its
center the cenotaph of Muhammed Shah surrounded by several other graves. The
main entrance to the chamber is from the south. Small chhatris (umbrellas) surround
the main dome which lend the building an Indo-Islamic look. The dome is crowned
with an inverted lotus shaped structure. The ceiling inside is decorated with
carved stucco and has the cosmic star in the centre which is believed to
connect the dead to heaven and has several Islamic inscriptions and decorative motifs.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_tt0ART-IKc/WBCXimaVk1I/AAAAAAAADKQ/f142sFkEd_guGbmUWMUdwR5efd9FQdVZwCLcB/s1600/DSC04212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_tt0ART-IKc/WBCXimaVk1I/AAAAAAAADKQ/f142sFkEd_guGbmUWMUdwR5efd9FQdVZwCLcB/s640/DSC04212.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The ceiling in Sheesh Gumbad. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Next we saw the Bada Gumbad, which means a building with a
big (bada) dome (gumbad). Itâs the first Lodhi era monument dating back to
mid-15<sup>th</sup> century. Itâs a square structure and appears to have 2
stories from the outside. However, when one enters one sees a single chamber
with a magnificent high ceiling. The absence of a cenotaph in the building,
stylistic differences lend mystery to the purpose of the structure. Some believe
that it served as gateway into Khairpur village in the 15<sup>th</sup> century.
Adjacent to the Bada Gumbad is a mosque with a pavilion to the east. It has
five arched openings with intricate stucco work of floral and geometric motifs.
There is a prayer hall with inscriptions from the Quran on the walls and
ceilings.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EswyZqNfjEk/WBCX1_6e_fI/AAAAAAAADKU/hQxiUcpEbf8_HqldjbuYCCkV1RrG6CmyQCLcB/s1600/DSC04242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EswyZqNfjEk/WBCX1_6e_fI/AAAAAAAADKU/hQxiUcpEbf8_HqldjbuYCCkV1RrG6CmyQCLcB/s640/DSC04242.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Sikander Lodhi's tomb. This couple out of the frame would have made it perfect, but I was feeling awkward asking them to move. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Next to the Bada Gumbad is the Sheesh Gumbad, which means a
dome (gumbad) covered with glass/mirrors (sheesh). This is because the dome and
parts of the façade were completely covered with coloured glazed tiles which were
imported from Persia. But today, with just a few cobalt blue tiles on the façade,
one can only imagine the beauty that this building must have been, back then.
This structure is again square like all Lodhi era structures and the inner
chamber with the cenotaph are decorated with fine stucco work of floral
patterns and Quranic inscriptions. There are several graves in the central
chamber, possibly of eminent people during Sikander Lodhiâs time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fdd4wxO3ulw/WBCYDzRjbdI/AAAAAAAADKc/nlaLY5GZtn8Ngh4ad8kmra2u4kBc14JQACLcB/s1600/DSC04235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fdd4wxO3ulw/WBCYDzRjbdI/AAAAAAAADKc/nlaLY5GZtn8Ngh4ad8kmra2u4kBc14JQACLcB/s640/DSC04235.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The walls of the tomb that make it look like a fortress.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FbrYA0VBmQE/WBCYDx5_i5I/AAAAAAAADKY/IJnSaI5dl9sBcZoq8z2XtU8HHVBtSsojwCLcB/s1600/DSC04239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FbrYA0VBmQE/WBCYDx5_i5I/AAAAAAAADKY/IJnSaI5dl9sBcZoq8z2XtU8HHVBtSsojwCLcB/s640/DSC04239.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Stucco work and glazed coloured tiles inside. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Further ahead is the tomb of Sikander Lodhi. Itâs a walled
tomb which makes it look like a fortress of sorts, and is said to be the last
prominent Lodhi era monument constructed in Delhi. This tomb is said to be
inspired by the tomb of Muhammed Shah, since it is quite similar in appearance
excepting the chhatris on top. The inner chamber of the tomb is surrounded by a
verandah of arches with carved sandstone brackets. In the chamber inside, there
are glazed tile decorations, painted stucco work and a single grave of Sikander
Lodhi.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XwfkFiVWwFQ/WBCYaQnqP0I/AAAAAAAADKk/uIRvpqvehQ47-N_EB9juhLgfqZ4MEZEVACLcB/s1600/DSC04244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XwfkFiVWwFQ/WBCYaQnqP0I/AAAAAAAADKk/uIRvpqvehQ47-N_EB9juhLgfqZ4MEZEVACLcB/s640/DSC04244.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Athpula or the eight pier bridge.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;">Our walk ended with the explanation of a fascinating
structure- a 16</span><sup style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif;">th</sup><span style="color: #444444; font-family: georgia, "times new roman", serif; font-size: large;"> century eight-pier bridge, east of Sikander Lodhiâs
tomb. It was built during Akbarâs reign, to span a tributary of the Yamuna
river that probably met the Barahpula nullah further south. This was a part of
the river system that drained the south Delhi area and then fed the Yamuna. Itâs
now called âAthpulaâ, (âathâ meaning eight and âpulâ meaning bridge) due to the
eight piers that support the bridge. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">At the end of the walk, I asked Jaya as to why monuments in
Delhi meant only Islamic monuments (Qutab Minar, Humayunâs tomb, Lodhi Garden tombs,
etc), and where the Hindu monuments were, because the Islamic invaders came to
India in the 9<sup>th</sup> century. She said that all Hindu monuments were
destroyed and razed to the ground by the Islamic invaders, so there is nothing
left. She even mentioned that they not only destroyed the Hindu temples, but
also transferred entire blocks of stone and pillars to construct their own
mosques, in place of the temples. In some structures like the Qutab Minar, one
can see stone bricks and columns with Sanskrit inscriptions still intact. The
horrors of the Islamic invasion are well known to everyone, but to hear
first-hand from a historian about the same and to know that, no single ancient Hindu temple
survives in the whole of Delhi, made me sad. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">But I couldnât remain sad for long. I had many things to do
in Delhi before I left for Pune, but more of that in the next post. :-)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HigQqxRvAOQ/WBCY_1OcrUI/AAAAAAAADKs/GDOnMY5mrpUPR-fToNgy4qzAoLLpvQ3KwCLcB/s1600/DSC04248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HigQqxRvAOQ/WBCY_1OcrUI/AAAAAAAADKs/GDOnMY5mrpUPR-fToNgy4qzAoLLpvQ3KwCLcB/s640/DSC04248.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Notice how wide the bridge is. Maybe this was used by their elephants too to move to the other side. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Though it was March, we had had a sudden heavy downpour in
the morning. Unarmed with umbrellas, we still decided to make the best of the
walk, and it was indeed a very informative walk. I would surely like to attend more walks with them. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">You may follow </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Intach-Heritage-Walks-199442496810218/?fref=ts" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">INTACH Delhi</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> on their Facebook page. The fees
for the walk was Rs 250. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Facebook</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-60087708752211175322016-05-27T04:12:00.000-07:002017-10-30T05:17:27.904-07:00Village Stays in India. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Last Sunday, the Times Of India supplement, </span><a href="http://epaperbeta.timesofindia.com//Article.aspx?eid=31814&articlexml=travel-trend-COUNTRY-ROADS-22052016351010&Mode=1" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Times Life, carried an article on âRusticationâ</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> or rustic vacations that urban dwellers are
increasingly searching for. I am no different. Having been born and brought up
in the Maximum City, Mumbai, I have discovered that my heart lies in rustic
India, in the beauty of the small, unspoilt villages and mountains, more
specifically. There is something so heart warming about staying in villages and
farms, breathing the pure air, eating food fresh from the farm and the pristine
surroundings. Hereâs a round-up of some of the village stays I've experienced
and each one has been memorable. Of course there are more to come. Maybe, Iâll
do part two on village stays sometime. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I've listed these in no particular order, although I've
started with places closer to home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mfn49YF2qnM/V0gkn0pVGrI/AAAAAAAACwo/rB-xDwKl1hUNSjU-Csl50HKCMXWiri79gCLcB/s1600/PA210258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mfn49YF2qnM/V0gkn0pVGrI/AAAAAAAACwo/rB-xDwKl1hUNSjU-Csl50HKCMXWiri79gCLcB/s640/PA210258.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In the alpine pastures in Spiti.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Velas: I visited Velas in February this year to see the </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/02/hatching-of-olive-ridley-turtles-at.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">hatching of the endangered Olive Ridley turtles</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. I stayed at </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/03/a-home-and-spice-farm-stay-amol-somans.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Amol Somanâs spicefarm</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. The sea, sand, turtles, climbing mango trees, lip smacking Konkani food
and lush spice farm made this a memorable experience. The rooms are no-frill,
very basic, since Velas is relatively new to hosting people from the cities.
But to make up for that is the sea (which I had all to myself when I visited),
just a ten minute walk from the home-stay, the verdant spice farm and the
relaxed pace of village life, which has not yet become touristy. Room tariff is
Rs 700 including food and accommodation if you go as a couple or Rs 1000 only
for the stay if you travel solo.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Upo-zcO5YKI/VtAQStFMENI/AAAAAAAACLw/IE5k-YhHFVYmQt1IQ2dCZNgVsA13IqARQCKgB/s1600/P1110146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Upo-zcO5YKI/VtAQStFMENI/AAAAAAAACLw/IE5k-YhHFVYmQt1IQ2dCZNgVsA13IqARQCKgB/s640/P1110146.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">New born Olive Ridley turtles in Velas.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s0HeR2bc6gg/VtASxhwr7RI/AAAAAAAACMo/qZIbtyBw1FcR5xe-PywyR5Rt-lHMvJahQCKgB/s1600/DSC03651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s0HeR2bc6gg/VtASxhwr7RI/AAAAAAAACMo/qZIbtyBw1FcR5xe-PywyR5Rt-lHMvJahQCKgB/s640/DSC03651.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I had the whole Velas beach to myself. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tsSFpeO0C4g/VvDdL3cKeJI/AAAAAAAACXU/LUBR0Do4Nyol-L_jV8y0A8Eiv60Zdu1WQCKgB/s1600/DSC03595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tsSFpeO0C4g/VvDdL3cKeJI/AAAAAAAACXU/LUBR0Do4Nyol-L_jV8y0A8Eiv60Zdu1WQCKgB/s640/DSC03595.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Amol Soman's spice farm. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lNkmuwaL91k/VvDeCpCMDXI/AAAAAAAACX8/lf10IWV2Z_4HUXOnCUJ-psBExfuELmcOACKgB/s1600/DSC03723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lNkmuwaL91k/VvDeCpCMDXI/AAAAAAAACX8/lf10IWV2Z_4HUXOnCUJ-psBExfuELmcOACKgB/s640/DSC03723.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lunch under a mango tree. The taste increased manifold :-)</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BBtLAPyhm9s/VvDeQxC9l5I/AAAAAAAACYA/cGR3C0o3HpcfY9QpV0E_7FYyFVAnP4PxQCKgB/s1600/DSC03695.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BBtLAPyhm9s/VvDeQxC9l5I/AAAAAAAACYA/cGR3C0o3HpcfY9QpV0E_7FYyFVAnP4PxQCKgB/s640/DSC03695.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A raw cashew nut.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/01/road-trip-to-sindhudurg.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Shreeyog Paryatan</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">: I had visited this sleepy village in
Sindhudurg with my husband in January 2015. It was a road trip, passing through
sugarcane fields, vendors selling heaps of the fiery Kolhapuri chilies on the
road side and passing through the bumpy roads on the ghats. The home-stay is
run by the elderly Kadams who will treat you like their own family member. Mrs.
Kadam is an excellent cook and even allows you to decide what you want to eat
for the next meal and cooks accordingly. 25 kms away is the peaceful and
non-touristy Tarkarli beach. </span><a href="https://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g1227937-d968213-r279181463-Shreeyog_Paryatan-Malvan_Maharashtra.html#CHECK_RATES_CONT" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Read my review on Tripadvisor</span></a><a href="https://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g1227937-d968213-r279181463-Shreeyog_Paryatan-Malvan_Maharashtra.html#CHECK_RATES_CONT" style="color: #444444;" target="_blank">.</a><span style="color: #444444;"> I do not wish you
give out their contact details on this forum. So if you are interested, contact
me. Tariff is Rs 1200 onwards for food and accommodation.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rd1bCujafoo/VcSKgNFR56I/AAAAAAAAAX8/JJ06wrf2RbQbnesix6z0DfZzXLDLUXXkwCKgB/s1600/DSC00882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rd1bCujafoo/VcSKgNFR56I/AAAAAAAAAX8/JJ06wrf2RbQbnesix6z0DfZzXLDLUXXkwCKgB/s640/DSC00882.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The vegetable garden in Kadams' house.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TrxjQS1DNPk/VcSKtfI-T0I/AAAAAAAAAYE/CIuhkJxUEgUtLpehW53-jUD6KrauVFD3wCKgB/s1600/DSC00887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TrxjQS1DNPk/VcSKtfI-T0I/AAAAAAAAAYE/CIuhkJxUEgUtLpehW53-jUD6KrauVFD3wCKgB/s640/DSC00887.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fresh farm produce being sold on the way to Tarkarli.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0vAzu0U3__o/VcSMlzB5vXI/AAAAAAAAAac/d3fXFK-lvTExNUWsfSIIPtsJbXAxwGmfACKgB/s1600/DSC00966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0vAzu0U3__o/VcSMlzB5vXI/AAAAAAAAAac/d3fXFK-lvTExNUWsfSIIPtsJbXAxwGmfACKgB/s640/DSC00966.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mrs. Kadam is a cook par excellence. </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atCiLMApI_g/VcSMnglkVxI/AAAAAAAAAas/3oxibIDi0S4YuoTo8qXBiEAMHTkhpbd8ACKgB/s1600/DSC00980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atCiLMApI_g/VcSMnglkVxI/AAAAAAAAAas/3oxibIDi0S4YuoTo8qXBiEAMHTkhpbd8ACKgB/s640/DSC00980.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Tarkarli beach only for us. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Panchgani: I did not stay in Panchgani, but had gone for
</span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/02/strawberry-picking-at-panchgani.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">strawberry picking</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> in January this year. But if an opportunity presents itself
I would stay on a strawberry farm too, so Iâve listed it under village stays.
Panchgani is the lesser known and non-touristy cousin of Mahabaleshwar, where
people from Mumbai and Pune escape to, during parched summers. Panchgani has
stays for all kinds of budgets. Think of leisurely walks, picking strawberries
in the numerous farms, eating gavran (village) Maharashtrian thali and
basically doing nothing but relax.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RICdXrfxkt4/Vqs1_02lAUI/AAAAAAAACDM/DCKfP_GR3CsJYATnCB5ohk598kTRiY8cQCKgB/s1600/DSC03243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RICdXrfxkt4/Vqs1_02lAUI/AAAAAAAACDM/DCKfP_GR3CsJYATnCB5ohk598kTRiY8cQCKgB/s640/DSC03243.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Strawberries by the heaps.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SjMNglUVTQ8/VsbAyN0w8KI/AAAAAAAACJQ/sM-c2elM0KwMxAfjWLe8Veza2Ko8nCLuwCKgB/s1600/DSC03207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SjMNglUVTQ8/VsbAyN0w8KI/AAAAAAAACJQ/sM-c2elM0KwMxAfjWLe8Veza2Ko8nCLuwCKgB/s640/DSC03207.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Picking strawberries on the farm.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3zG0y2tCAAw/VsbAbaIw-LI/AAAAAAAACJA/q0c5jM3X15IL9-bhGc6ZktLRt-MfpXo1ACKgB/s1600/DSC03216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3zG0y2tCAAw/VsbAbaIw-LI/AAAAAAAACJA/q0c5jM3X15IL9-bhGc6ZktLRt-MfpXo1ACKgB/s640/DSC03216.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Rows of strawberries.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Rainforest retreat: The </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/10/photo-essay-rainforest-retreat.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Rainforest Retreat or the Mojo Plantation</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> is situated in a village called Gaalibeedu, around 10 kms from
Madikeri, in Karnataka. I had </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/06/my-tryst-with-pollinating-vanilla.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">volunteered for vanilla hand-pollination</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> and also
did a </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/10/volunteering-for-art-at-rainforest.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">wall-art in one of the cottages</span></a><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/10/volunteering-for-art-at-rainforest.html" style="color: #444444;" target="_blank"> </a><span style="color: #444444;">depicting the local bio-diversity. The 25
acres of the entirely organic plantation grows coffee, vanilla, cardamom,
pepper and fruits like pineapple (the best Iâve ever had), papaya, bananas,
etc. The owners Sujata and Anurag Goel will make you feel at home, talk about
Nature and bio-diversity with such passion that you are bound to leave from
there with more knowledge about the environment and be more awed by Natureâs
intelligence. The staff is extremely sweet and courteous. They invited me to
their home for coffee in the wee hours of the morning, since I was to leave at
6 am. Tariff starts from Rs 2000 onwards. Website: </span><a href="http://www.rainforestours.com/"><span style="color: red;">http://www.rainforestours.com/</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XnoeiwWf0lc/VhyrHDPpVWI/AAAAAAAAAyI/b2dNzpDZnDUsmbV4-luXzWvSv31t0ZanACKgB/s1600/1907593_278162905684560_9208256618487981051_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XnoeiwWf0lc/VhyrHDPpVWI/AAAAAAAAAyI/b2dNzpDZnDUsmbV4-luXzWvSv31t0ZanACKgB/s640/1907593_278162905684560_9208256618487981051_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Inside the Rainforest Retreat.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Moa9n6Kzx8/Vhyr5B-_yuI/AAAAAAAAAzI/mO9ErjG9phc8xDYLUeETIncRSPB9fzXsACKgB/s1600/10245345_278163429017841_2685428763905126335_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Moa9n6Kzx8/Vhyr5B-_yuI/AAAAAAAAAzI/mO9ErjG9phc8xDYLUeETIncRSPB9fzXsACKgB/s640/10245345_278163429017841_2685428763905126335_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Misty mornings with the song of the birds.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NE-JgBpPgwE/VhyuLtbBfLI/AAAAAAAAA1g/XbY2A_g3LmUFjqb-_dRBS8P_bvBUNSeDACKgB/s1600/10253945_278163562351161_6534618480979209926_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NE-JgBpPgwE/VhyuLtbBfLI/AAAAAAAAA1g/XbY2A_g3LmUFjqb-_dRBS8P_bvBUNSeDACKgB/s640/10253945_278163562351161_6534618480979209926_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Food was delicious to say the least. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QWxBXdHb4qI/VhyuY6orbeI/AAAAAAAAA18/EyWEh_1akeoFQIiwBUw_dC85YSfnWa4cQCKgB/s1600/10011365_278163939017790_2601908035611344445_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QWxBXdHb4qI/VhyuY6orbeI/AAAAAAAAA18/EyWEh_1akeoFQIiwBUw_dC85YSfnWa4cQCKgB/s640/10011365_278163939017790_2601908035611344445_n.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Ravi, one of the staff who was extremely courteous and extremely knowledgeable about the flora and fauna of the region.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBsJq1hEpfI/Vhysb9X2oHI/AAAAAAAAAzs/bE7-2ORMsx8l447xNeawNQwhXfOjvynVgCKgB/s1600/10268703_278163162351201_328067641091165426_n%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBsJq1hEpfI/Vhysb9X2oHI/AAAAAAAAAzs/bE7-2ORMsx8l447xNeawNQwhXfOjvynVgCKgB/s640/10268703_278163162351201_328067641091165426_n%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This cutie pie of a calf took fancy to my bag and wanted to eat it. A refreshing change from the boring grass, you see! </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Sullia: A friend had invited us to his brotherâs wedding.
The venue turned out to be a </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/01/inside-green-world-in-sullia.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">100 acre organic family farm</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. With sections
devoted to swaying coconut trees, towering areca nut trees, square paddy
fields, the farm is a peninsula of sorts, surrounded by a river on 3 sides,
making the soil rich and fertile. The highlight was seeing and eating the flesh
of a cocoa pod, drinking water from a well (ah, so sweet) and gathering
arecanuts which freshly plucked by the
dexterous tree climber. The wedding was completely, what we urban people would
call, eco-friendly, though for them itâs a way of life and they make no deal
about it! This is a friendâs farm which we were fortunate to visit and stay in,
so itâs not for visitors :-)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lWFOjGQpYv4/Vo-hVFvAoGI/AAAAAAAAB4c/yIUQQEk7Pi88wQr8qTq7vCsxC2Yg5c2QgCKgB/s1600/DSC02362.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lWFOjGQpYv4/Vo-hVFvAoGI/AAAAAAAAB4c/yIUQQEk7Pi88wQr8qTq7vCsxC2Yg5c2QgCKgB/s640/DSC02362.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Inside the farm.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gj1WgJCxMnQ/Vo-h1KApvTI/AAAAAAAAB5E/hlCNqLub2Vsi9Z8EgCuoKXgtbetCTgEEwCKgB/s1600/DSC02415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gj1WgJCxMnQ/Vo-h1KApvTI/AAAAAAAAB5E/hlCNqLub2Vsi9Z8EgCuoKXgtbetCTgEEwCKgB/s640/DSC02415.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">See how the decoration is entirely made with leaves, fruit and flowers.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X6QHz8HzNCE/Vo-nKxLXqBI/AAAAAAAAB58/DIgRQftoGdEpw0t-qYQj3hOkl7wo9aJ2ACKgB/s1600/IMG_20151114_171330819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X6QHz8HzNCE/Vo-nKxLXqBI/AAAAAAAAB58/DIgRQftoGdEpw0t-qYQj3hOkl7wo9aJ2ACKgB/s640/IMG_20151114_171330819.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Eating a cocoa pod.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mNmwfd7pAPA/Vo-n2NyDy5I/AAAAAAAAB6k/gALnadp9q3ca8K9SLA-VBTK7WQ-OSvvuQCKgB/s1600/DSC02322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mNmwfd7pAPA/Vo-n2NyDy5I/AAAAAAAAB6k/gALnadp9q3ca8K9SLA-VBTK7WQ-OSvvuQCKgB/s640/DSC02322.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Fresh okra. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/03/kutch-travelogue-part-1.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Bhujodi</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">: There was no farm here, but the warmth and love of
my hosts at Bhujodi village, where I painted a wall, made this a wonderful
experience. The simplicity and down-to-earth nature of these award winning
handloom artists, Vankar Dayabhai Ala, his son, Ashok bhai and family makes me
want to go back and visit them again sometime. I was kept well hydrated with
copious quantities of buttermilk to beat the heat, simple, scrumptious rustic
food grown on their farm (which I couldnât visit), and stories and anecdotes from
their lives as artisans. A bonus was </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/08/journey-of-handwoven-piece-of-fabric.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">watching the entire process of weaving apiece of cloth</span></a> </span></span><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">as the artisans hummed and sang Kabir bhajans. </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/10/volunteering-for-wall-art-at-bhujodi.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Since I was painting the wall outside theirhouse</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, they hosted me.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A cow staring at me in Bhujodi. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Ashok Bhai posing in front of my wall art. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Homely food at Ashok Bhai's house.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/03/kutch-travelogue-part-2.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kukma</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">: This was another village where I stayed during my
Kutch trip. I was put up in a rustic-chic guest house at </span><a href="http://www.khamir.org/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">KHAMIR</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, an
organization that </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/11/note-on-pottery-of-kutch.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">promotes Kutchi handicrafts</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, and excellently so. I used to
wake up before sunrise, grab some masala chai in an earthen cup (kulhad) and
walk around the campus being amused and entertained by birds chirping on a high
decibel, getting ready to fly off in different directions for food and admiring
the gorgeous sunrise on the barren landscape with sparse trees. I painted a
wall here too. </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/PurpleSoulArt/photos/?tab=album&album_id=795030350578721" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">See the pictures here.</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> The food is simple and delicious and the
staff is very helpful. The buildings are made entirely out mud, which keeps the
interiors cool in the desert summer and the dĂŠcor is simple yet elegant. They
also arrange for cultural tours in Kutch. Tariff starts at Rs 750.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The simple yet elegant guest house at Khamir. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Cups of masala chai over sunrise.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Spiti: Well, in trans-Himalayan Spiti, you will be
spoilt for choice when it comes to village stays, because except Kaza, the
small town, there are only villages everywhere. </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2013/07/it-all-started-around-2-and-half-months.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">I stayed at 5 different villages in Spiti.</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> In Langza, I stayed the longest, volunteering in my hostâs
green peas farm. The job mainly involved weeding. Also helped with some
cooking. Then I went to Komic, the highest inhabited village in Asia at the
height of 5150 meters above sea level. In 2013, when I had visited there were
only 13 houses and the total population of the village was 32 people. Next was
Demul, Lhalung and then Tabo. Spiti is spectacularly beautiful from any
village, so take your pick. Many backpackers and trekkers just walk up to a village, knock on a
door and ask to stay. Home-stays charge from Rs 150 to 300 for food and
accommodation. The toilets are dry compost, owing to the dry, arid land and
fragile ecosystem. </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/11/the-people-of-spiti-valley.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">The people are unbelievably kind and simple</span></a><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/11/the-people-of-spiti-valley.html" style="color: #444444;" target="_blank">,</a><span style="color: #444444;"> because they
have not yet been corrupted by people outside, but that may change soon with
the promotion of tourism.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iLXhAAM-CU0/VRFfcXHPptI/AAAAAAAAAKM/5IpfYz5sfbohAGVxvKeviHTPhT8hyVIWgCKgB/s1600/PA160052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iLXhAAM-CU0/VRFfcXHPptI/AAAAAAAAAKM/5IpfYz5sfbohAGVxvKeviHTPhT8hyVIWgCKgB/s640/PA160052.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The entrance to Spiti. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JGxPPic74vM/V0gfMk0mayI/AAAAAAAACvc/1UiqkZLVfO4-f-2fBusZdGB3hG6ly7h_QCLcB/s1600/PA200207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JGxPPic74vM/V0gfMk0mayI/AAAAAAAACvc/1UiqkZLVfO4-f-2fBusZdGB3hG6ly7h_QCLcB/s640/PA200207.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">That's me pulling outs weeds on the farm. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9MV80T3WIAk/V0ghe2hRTVI/AAAAAAAACwI/VJZT7jBFzakxdLmV9QlDwhbI22BAejYYgCLcB/s1600/PA220305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9MV80T3WIAk/V0ghe2hRTVI/AAAAAAAACwI/VJZT7jBFzakxdLmV9QlDwhbI22BAejYYgCLcB/s640/PA220305.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Spiti has many monasteries, their bright, lively colours contrasting with the browns and greys of the arid landscape. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hoUEjRD9xQU/V0ggS6mrvnI/AAAAAAAACvs/5Z7xVrqQ0noaWwGBkkw2YQc3C1wrty35gCLcB/s1600/PA220308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hoUEjRD9xQU/V0ggS6mrvnI/AAAAAAAACvs/5Z7xVrqQ0noaWwGBkkw2YQc3C1wrty35gCLcB/s640/PA220308.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The highest inhabited village, Komic, as seen from the Komic monastery.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Ruhil Dhar and Kharapthar: I wanted to </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/09/climbing-apple-tree.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">volunteer for apple harvesting</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> last year so I visited a friendâs </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/10/life-in-himachali-farm.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">apple orchard in Himachal Pradesh</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">,
which his family has been managing for many generations. Both are remote
villages, so you may not have heard of it. The work was hard for a city girl
like me, but I managed to put in 5 hours of work everyday. The workers taught
me how to climb trees, balance myself on slender branches, pluck the apples,
without destroying the buds, collect them in the bag hung on my shoulder/neck
and pass it down to the person standing below, successfully, without falling
down. I enjoyed every bit of it. That together with the </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/09/a-taste-of-paharihimachali-cuisine.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">scrumptious, lesserknown traditional Himachali dishes like siddu, mash ke vade</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, etc made by my
friendâs loving grandmother and served with liberal amounts of ghee, had me
return with lovely memories.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fC7zCzEmJGA/V0gg2g7-GpI/AAAAAAAACv8/bo9q3RSA0e0SZN-UuXpHanoN4YN7dxI2wCLcB/s1600/DSC01671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fC7zCzEmJGA/V0gg2g7-GpI/AAAAAAAACv8/bo9q3RSA0e0SZN-UuXpHanoN4YN7dxI2wCLcB/s640/DSC01671.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The beautiful surroundings at Kharapathar.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Walking through the clouds and fog. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A fully laden apple tree.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Variety of Himchali/Pahari delicacies. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">There are so many more villages to visit in so many other
states in India, I've barely scratched the surface. Hope to visit many more
soon. My aim is to visit at least one village in each state :-)</span><br />
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-10229235827342474052016-05-18T08:09:00.000-07:002016-05-27T04:31:37.540-07:00The Stunning Paintings of the Gifted Jesuit-Artist Antonio Moscheni. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OP0BDzfsDH4/Vzx-P5F9dWI/AAAAAAAACtM/nFCo6ts_IIANoyeTE2HhnK9U6ypTsWrIgCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OP0BDzfsDH4/Vzx-P5F9dWI/AAAAAAAACtM/nFCo6ts_IIANoyeTE2HhnK9U6ypTsWrIgCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0012.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Inside the St. Aloysius Chapel. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">During our visit to </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2015/11/traditional-vegetarian-dishes-to-try.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Mangalore</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, on the way back from green
</span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/01/inside-green-world-in-sullia.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Sullia</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">, we visited the St. Aloysius chapel. I was so awed and inspired by the
paintings inside the Chapel that I think it warrants one post dedicated to the
master artist- Antonio Moscheni, the man behind the stunning art. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8c8DSLVLCXs/Vzx-ao1WhyI/AAAAAAAACtQ/972QkyW1gIsaXQh2b32-G1PLl-5n-GaTgCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8c8DSLVLCXs/Vzx-ao1WhyI/AAAAAAAACtQ/972QkyW1gIsaXQh2b32-G1PLl-5n-GaTgCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0021.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Chapel from outside. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Let me begin by talking a bit about the Chapel. The St.
Aloysius Chapel was built in 1882. The southern wing of the building was
reserved as a Chapel as a place of prayer for the students. The Chapel has a
large prayer hall with 2 aisles on the side. There are paintings on the ceiling
of the main hall, the arches and also the ceilings and walls of the aisles. The
paintings on the ceilings are done on canvas and the ones on the walls are
fresci.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-anl6mSyAtc0/Vzx-rlEsXhI/AAAAAAAACtU/cA_JEZ5-nfMyN8bxYa8s_RQG_DRz14U1wCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-anl6mSyAtc0/Vzx-rlEsXhI/AAAAAAAACtU/cA_JEZ5-nfMyN8bxYa8s_RQG_DRz14U1wCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0007.jpg" width="424" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On the ceiling are oil paintings and the walls have fresci. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The central rows of paintings on the ceiling depicts the
life of St. Aloysius to whom the Chapel is dedicated. The paintings depict his
childhood, his first communion, seeking admission to the Jesuit order, his
service to people during plague in Rome and so on.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BxYBClW3ftg/Vzx-0ov7HVI/AAAAAAAACtY/Vtdl7FLkPfUGob0WL8F7dV8fGb9fWlCFQCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BxYBClW3ftg/Vzx-0ov7HVI/AAAAAAAACtY/Vtdl7FLkPfUGob0WL8F7dV8fGb9fWlCFQCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0000.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The borders that you see on the walls and around the paintings are all painted. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The sloping part of the ceilings depict the Apostles.
Antonioâs love for flowers can be seen in his paintings, as each panel has a
different variety of flowers, and very much life like.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The upper arches of the main hall also depict the lives of
the Saints of the Church. The life of Jesus is portrayed on the paintings in
the aisle. The largest painting in the Chapel is on the rear wall, opposite the
main altar. It shows Jesus with a group of children and is considered the best
of Moscheniâs work. Due to seepage of rain water the painting was damaged due
to fungus and calcium carbonate crystals but has been now restored, excepting
the right hand bottom corner to show the difference between the damaged and
restored part. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F-WhS7uZhPo/Vzx_V5AhiuI/AAAAAAAACuM/vWddu-QKx6oNzpHD2GpmC786cR56UYFYACKgB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F-WhS7uZhPo/Vzx_V5AhiuI/AAAAAAAACuM/vWddu-QKx6oNzpHD2GpmC786cR56UYFYACKgB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0006.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The largest painting in the Chapel, of Jesus with children is considered as Antonio's best work. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The stones or bricks with which the whole Chapel is paved
were brought from Bergamo in Italy. It gives the illusion of steps.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C-UdaG7y14U/Vzx-6uy60sI/AAAAAAAACtc/KLuveRWq-o0vuMozide72wbKnefUzTt_wCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C-UdaG7y14U/Vzx-6uy60sI/AAAAAAAACtc/KLuveRWq-o0vuMozide72wbKnefUzTt_wCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0024.jpg" width="424" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The tiles for the flooring were brought from Bergamo which gives the illusion of steps. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">It was in 1899, that Brother Anotnio Moscheni was called
from Italy to infuse colour and life in the walls of the Chapel. Brother Antonio was born
in Stezzano in Italy on January 17, 1854. He attended the famous Academia
Carrara in Bergamo and went on to study in detail and contemplate the master pieces
in the Vatican as well for a year. He had also earned a great reputation as a
master painter decorating the Sanctuary of Madonna Del Campo in Bergamo. His
recognition as a world class painter came during the official exhibitions of
his paintings in Milan and Turin in 1883 and 1884 respectively. But he chose to
enroll himself as a lay brother in the Society of Jesus in 1889. The senior
Jesuits recognized his talent and lest it go waste, after his novitiate, deputed him to paint churches in Albania and Piacenza.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xpycgc-9N4w/Vzx--mQLSPI/AAAAAAAACtk/oRfr1x677jIFFRrUYVEeZkOEqJP7lpNbQCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xpycgc-9N4w/Vzx--mQLSPI/AAAAAAAACtk/oRfr1x677jIFFRrUYVEeZkOEqJP7lpNbQCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0005.jpg" width="442" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The statue of Brother Antonio Moscheni. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">He was then asked to go to the then little known place in
India, called Mangalore, to paint a Chapel. He readily took up the offer. He came to Mangalore in 1899 and completed
the painting of the Chapel in over 2 and a half years, single handedly.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oUnBfeIV_A/Vzx_EaizKjI/AAAAAAAACto/pAp8vRVL8dcFiUDuDD6JjyRA2nRWXCWnACLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oUnBfeIV_A/Vzx_EaizKjI/AAAAAAAACto/pAp8vRVL8dcFiUDuDD6JjyRA2nRWXCWnACLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0003.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Notice the intricate flowers and every other detailing.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-689XBpT_EwQ/VzyAGTbvyUI/AAAAAAAACuQ/oWprHB1ujsoOJmLqYyPNSSVvTVMYMladgCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-689XBpT_EwQ/VzyAGTbvyUI/AAAAAAAACuQ/oWprHB1ujsoOJmLqYyPNSSVvTVMYMladgCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0014.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Add caption</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As a Jesuit, he had his religious and spiritual duties to
perform, after which he would spend long hours suspended on the scaffolding,
painting the walls of the chapel all alone and in climate hard on a
European. Working with the fumes of the
oils and varnishes, in low light conditions (there was no electricity in those
days) and in the high humidity and sweltering heat was taking toll on his
health. After sunset when it was too dark to paint, he would return to his room
to plan the next dayâs work. In his spare time he would illustrate scenes from
the scriptures and at the time of his death he had drawn 10 volumes of
illustrations.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6JCbbK4mAME/Vzx_KZte_KI/AAAAAAAACts/LrVOXXMvrVILsDgA1fEnfhnizWpWHAvygCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6JCbbK4mAME/Vzx_KZte_KI/AAAAAAAACts/LrVOXXMvrVILsDgA1fEnfhnizWpWHAvygCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0004.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The pillars which look like marble were actually painted that way by Antonio to give that effect. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The paints he was accustomed to in Italy were not readily
available in India and it would have been very expensive to import them, so he
made his own paints using vegetable dyes. He achieved an incredible feat of
painting the Chapel in 2 and half years, whereas the restoration work by the
INTACH team itself took 4 years by 7 specialists. It is worthy of note that
Moscheni did not have any models to base his work on. He relied solely on his
imagination, honed by meditation to conjure up the pictures which he translated
into paintings. Moscheni shared a deep love for Nature which is evident in his
paintings which abounds in fruits and flowers. Painting garlands of local
flowers seemed to be his specialty. His ancestral house in Italy still has
flowers from his earlier work as an artist. Nowhere on his paintings has he
used his initials, dedicating his work solely to God. Moscheni single handedly
painted every inch of the Chapel, a total of 829 sq. meters within 2 and a half
years.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XzHLXjPvyVE/Vzx_bNJbSAI/AAAAAAAACt4/cKHqsife8rA9cla8vLIvt9_13t8X3jKtgCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XzHLXjPvyVE/Vzx_bNJbSAI/AAAAAAAACt4/cKHqsife8rA9cla8vLIvt9_13t8X3jKtgCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0010.jpg" width="424" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This looks like a statue, doesn't it. It's actually a painting in monochrome. Unbelievable, right? </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lJLKgflD6OU/VzyAN311LII/AAAAAAAACuU/Rbd6cRhu1iA81DJrdZvWe5MPy-1k_3mWACLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lJLKgflD6OU/VzyAN311LII/AAAAAAAACuU/Rbd6cRhu1iA81DJrdZvWe5MPy-1k_3mWACLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0015.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Every inch of the chapel was painted by Antonio. </span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The paintings are now 115 years old and are restored every
25 years. It takes around 4 years for the restoration, during which time the
Chapel is closed to visitors. The last restoration was in 1991-94 by the
INTACH-Lucknow team lead by Dr. O.P. Agarwal.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9-Y-2nubg8A/Vzx_isiN1KI/AAAAAAAACuA/IVvFO-zJ1gYNJNFfrB5P7IcP3aGgtZ8vgCLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9-Y-2nubg8A/Vzx_isiN1KI/AAAAAAAACuA/IVvFO-zJ1gYNJNFfrB5P7IcP3aGgtZ8vgCLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0025.jpg" width="424" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This metallic thing in the centre is a painting too, as are the pillars.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-81LA5yAjY_U/VzyAdYYBkoI/AAAAAAAACuY/fApVjigQenkR_Yo0jW-Ci5sVy-uA9i9EACLcB/s1600/IMG-20160415-WA0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-81LA5yAjY_U/VzyAdYYBkoI/AAAAAAAACuY/fApVjigQenkR_Yo0jW-Ci5sVy-uA9i9EACLcB/s640/IMG-20160415-WA0008.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The statues on either side of the altar are paintings in monochrome. </span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">After completing the painting in the St. Aloysius Chapel,
Moscheni was invited to Mumbai, then known as Bombay, to paint the interiors of
the Holy Name Cathedral, which, in spite of the challenges of the vaulted
ceiling he painted in one and half years. He was to return to Italy after that
but was requested to come to Cochin to paint another Church. He took that up
although he was ill due to the humid and tropical climate. This along
with the difficulty that no one spoke his language and he did not know the
local language. Then there was an outbreak of plague in Mangalore in 1902, when the
Father in charge of the hospital asked for volunteers and Moscheni signed up as
one in spite of his own health issues. Realizing that his days were numbered,
he worked harder to finish his assignment in Cochin, which he did in a span of
5 months. His body eventually gave up and he had to be admitted to the
Carmelite Hospial in Magnamey, where he breathed his last at the age of 52 on
15th November, 1905. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">You guessed that....it's a painting, not a statue, as are the cherubs. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Chapel is open every day from 9 am to 6 pm. A Guide is available to explain the paintings
and the Art from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm to 6 pm. The
service of the Guide is free although people may make a contribution towards
the maintenance of the Chapel. Photography is strictly prohibited inside. I requested the Guide inside to send me these pictures, so that I could use them for this blog post. My gratitude to him. </span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-8960916520349892732016-05-14T05:51:00.000-07:002016-05-14T06:24:32.975-07:00In Love with Indian Summer! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I am a person with a very low threshold to bearing the heat
of the sun. So, itâs needless to say how much I dreaded the Indian tropical
summer every year. But since the last
year, I donât know what has come over me, I love the Indian summer and have
even started romanticizing it.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I've realized that as long as you keep yourself hydrated and
stay in the shade when the sun is right overhead, itâs totally possible to love
summer. In fact, this summer, I have been braving the heat to go to the Pune market almost every week, and just take in the sights, colours and the beauty in the chaos. Call me crazy! </span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Summer brings along a burst of colours, varieties of fruit and a spread
of food like none other.</span><br />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Let me begin with the visual treats that Nature offers us to
mitigate the summer heat. Roads in cities are lined with benign Gulmohar trees offering
shade and infusing energy by way of colours to commuters. Gulmohar blooms in red, yellow and blue too. You must have surely seen these. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOEWOPy1lqc/VzW9TNQY2sI/AAAAAAAACp8/YNNMGq5HcY0jeX2PuRmaUQYJ8UwldWuTgCLcB/s1600/Delonix%2Bregia%2B-%2BRoyal%2BPoinciana%2B-%2BGulmohar%2B02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOEWOPy1lqc/VzW9TNQY2sI/AAAAAAAACp8/YNNMGq5HcY0jeX2PuRmaUQYJ8UwldWuTgCLcB/s640/Delonix%2Bregia%2B-%2BRoyal%2BPoinciana%2B-%2BGulmohar%2B02.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The Red Gulmohar. Picture taken from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://treesplanet.blogspot.in/2013/06/delonix-regia-royal-poinciana-gulmohar.html#.VzW34oTl6Uk" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>. </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sEk_QDFvDo8/VzW-mrS9HWI/AAAAAAAACqI/JPwg6_nd0YoBuxN5wq7sfFRLfSTFzo01QCLcB/s1600/pelto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sEk_QDFvDo8/VzW-mrS9HWI/AAAAAAAACqI/JPwg6_nd0YoBuxN5wq7sfFRLfSTFzo01QCLcB/s640/pelto.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Peela Gulmohar. Picture taken from </span><a href="http://www.maayboli.com/node/45755?page=2" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here.</span><span style="color: #444444;"> </span></a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAOx_PinQPM/VzW-tVRVcjI/AAAAAAAACqM/b-bPND08-xABFHDRUHa5nmbAoPdJm62_wCLcB/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAOx_PinQPM/VzW-tVRVcjI/AAAAAAAACqM/b-bPND08-xABFHDRUHa5nmbAoPdJm62_wCLcB/s640/10.jpg" width="424" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Neela Gulmohar. Picture taken from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://apuurva-ms.blogspot.in/2011/04/boulevard-of-blossoming-trees.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Not only roads, even
housing societies have gulmohar trees. In fact as I type this, I am smiling
back at the gulmohar tee in full bloom, which is almost hanging into my
balcony. I donât even have to travel. Beauty is all around me. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QxKLWLOlLsk/VzW6gIEw64I/AAAAAAAACpw/4jaC-4_kZWQs-QljKUqqQTBR5Pws2nvxACKgB/s640/DSC04949-resized.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The gorgeous gulmohar saying Hi to me from my balcony.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QxKLWLOlLsk/VzW6gIEw64I/AAAAAAAACpw/4jaC-4_kZWQs-QljKUqqQTBR5Pws2nvxACKgB/s1600/DSC04949-resized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">There are many
other trees too which flaunt their colours and blooms, the names of which I may
not know. But thereâs one, the Indian Laburnum, which is sure to warm any heart
with its yellows. I remember walking down a lane in Pune lined with these in
full bloom, and I was in paradise for some time at least.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qsufvkl4NbY/VzW_NR-YiMI/AAAAAAAACqU/ybOGMstEjV4p_v9zOurQplwdhqAZfCLSQCLcB/s1600/21YTHYDTREES_929828f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qsufvkl4NbY/VzW_NR-YiMI/AAAAAAAACqU/ybOGMstEjV4p_v9zOurQplwdhqAZfCLSQCLcB/s640/21YTHYDTREES_929828f.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Indian Laburnum. Picture taken from </span><a href="http://www.thehindu.com/multimedia/dynamic/00929/21YTHYDTREES_929828f.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Some of my favourite fruits grow only during summer, because
that is the kind of temperature required for them to ripen well. I saw this
cart full of indigenous Indian summer fruits. I donât know their English names but
have eaten them all and they are delectable, each with their unique taste and
nutrients to nourish the body for the summer season.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MfP284_NiW4/VzW_zGE3h8I/AAAAAAAACqc/rJWwQXP7rXIyTpm3DLaVVTxHboFJFgLOACLcB/s1600/IMG_20160505_165828400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MfP284_NiW4/VzW_zGE3h8I/AAAAAAAACqc/rJWwQXP7rXIyTpm3DLaVVTxHboFJFgLOACLcB/s640/IMG_20160505_165828400.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A colourful cart of indigenous summer fruits I saw in Pune. The white round ones are ice apples and taste like tender coconut (tadgola), the bright yellow ones are star fruits. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-00_KRnZ078I/VzW_1FfEGVI/AAAAAAAACqg/h0JDpOl2vz4aLhUzAYnk5K1x1s3B6HskwCLcB/s640/IMG_20160505_165737603.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Such a happy riot of colours. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-00_KRnZ078I/VzW_1FfEGVI/AAAAAAAACqg/h0JDpOl2vz4aLhUzAYnk5K1x1s3B6HskwCLcB/s1600/IMG_20160505_165737603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Who doesn't love mangoes? India is blessed with a hundred
varieties of mangoes thanks to its soil and climate and yes the summer! Some
other fruits available only during summer are the jackfruit and the jamun, both
of which I eat in plentiful.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSNwPmd75f4/VzcVKTqcKyI/AAAAAAAACrA/Ti0Fh61Hiv8tpTTId9KejOA_VUu90ekuACLcB/s1600/_HY08MANGO_1047362f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSNwPmd75f4/VzcVKTqcKyI/AAAAAAAACrA/Ti0Fh61Hiv8tpTTId9KejOA_VUu90ekuACLcB/s640/_HY08MANGO_1047362f.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Varieties of mangoes. Picture taken from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.thehindu.com/multimedia/dynamic/01047/_HY08MANGO_1047362f.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5dFh9HvSGs/VzW_1iwUE3I/AAAAAAAACqs/liDMToR_KiU7dVeAWYe6FFIQD51iDnusACKgB/s1600/IMG_20160505_165807712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5dFh9HvSGs/VzW_1iwUE3I/AAAAAAAACqs/liDMToR_KiU7dVeAWYe6FFIQD51iDnusACKgB/s640/IMG_20160505_165807712.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The black ones are jamun, rich in anti-oxidants. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Now to talk about the food preparations which are made out
of the summer produce. On top of the list would be pickles- mainly the raw mango
pickle. Every state in the country, every district, every village and every
family has its own recipe for pickles which is passed down from one generation
to the other. The pickle is prepared during summer because the hot sun rays are
required for maturing the pickle and it is consumed during monsoon, when most vegetables
are not easily available and the spices and the oil in the pickle is good for
gut health when digestion becomes weak during the season. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XmIDX7tk54s/VzcV4THPIyI/AAAAAAAACrI/hZwgl-9eDCcJDqb-toIkI1AgsHoPsDz6QCLcB/s1600/13208620435_761b222134_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XmIDX7tk54s/VzcV4THPIyI/AAAAAAAACrI/hZwgl-9eDCcJDqb-toIkI1AgsHoPsDz6QCLcB/s640/13208620435_761b222134_z.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Avakkai or the mango pickle. Picture taken from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.jeyashriskitchen.com/2014/03/avakkai-pickleavakkai-mango-urugaai.html" target="_blank">Jeyashri's Kitchen</a>. </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I recently visited Lalbaug, in Mumbai where there were several shops selling a 100 varieties of red chillies by the sack, mainly for pickles and masalas which are made during summer. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hyk_lcLGnv8/VzcYtXao2ZI/AAAAAAAACrs/w8Pw62ptI3QwgDuRRltA_3N4q3GQGrKOgCLcB/s640/DSC04922.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The jaw dropping varieties of red chillies in Lalbaug, Mumbai. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">A shop dedicated for grinding spices, in Lalbaug, Mumbai. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tGk5K6qZHW4/VzcYyyNCMoI/AAAAAAAACrw/rbLUcRglmyMfXyWMUDEIpMNYUqPwMzUqQCLcB/s1600/DSC04884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Of course that doesn't stop people like me from devouring
pickles in summer too, mainly because this time it was my first attempt at
pickle making and it turned out so delicious.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Talking of food, there are preparations that make me
nostalgic like the chakka varatti or jackfruit jam and chakka payasam, a
pudding made of ripe jackfruit and coconut milk. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SlLjMLOYKIY/VzcWVrw2ITI/AAAAAAAACrM/H95bY09mKWQXbs8lNQ3ifBMEDkwnhGYWQCLcB/s1600/chakkavaratti3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="636" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SlLjMLOYKIY/VzcWVrw2ITI/AAAAAAAACrM/H95bY09mKWQXbs8lNQ3ifBMEDkwnhGYWQCLcB/s640/chakkavaratti3.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The lip smacking chakka varatti or jackfruit jam. Picture taken from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://palakkadcooking.blogspot.in/2013/04/chakka-varattijackfruit-preserve.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Palakkad Chamayal</span></a>.</span></span><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"> </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dOVysAWyrcA/VzcWwpvsBSI/AAAAAAAACrU/_u8m3spts7ABF8hfUmbJmhaOLybfBx94QCLcB/s1600/chakkapradhaman3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dOVysAWyrcA/VzcWwpvsBSI/AAAAAAAACrU/_u8m3spts7ABF8hfUmbJmhaOLybfBx94QCLcB/s640/chakkapradhaman3.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The delectable chakka payasam or jackfruit pudding or kheer. Picture taken from </span><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://palakkadcooking.blogspot.in/2015/04/chakka-pradhaman-vishu-sadya.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Palakkad Chamayal</span></a>.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">There are also a variety of beverages to beat the summer
heat and Nature in her infinite intelligence provides fruits and vegetables in
a particular season that provide nutrients and nourishment required for that
season. Take the Kokum for example. Its fruit is made into a refreshing summer
drink which keeps the body cool and the digestive system working fine. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cs4EWTllSYI/VzcXwKdvHPI/AAAAAAAACrk/3yIDfUz_V7U4JH33etzwckYpsevAnsQrACLcB/s1600/7234845736_ac27b2d071_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cs4EWTllSYI/VzcXwKdvHPI/AAAAAAAACrk/3yIDfUz_V7U4JH33etzwckYpsevAnsQrACLcB/s640/7234845736_ac27b2d071_o.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">A refreshing glass of Kokum sharbat. Picture taken from </span><a href="http://www.myjhola.in/2012/06/kokum-juice-concentrate.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Myjhola</span></a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In some places
in India people drink copious amounts of
buttermilk and lemonade to keep themselves hydrated. How can I forget the aam
panna, a beverage made with raw mangoes and slightly spiced? Itâs an appetizing
drink which balances the salt and sugar levels in the body which are lost dues
to perspiration and what a wonderful way to keep the body cool.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LsOXn2FWXlg/VzcZTIwzG6I/AAAAAAAACr8/pLzoyFfV0nYwJz6VR0B6g0z1MwgglkFUACLcB/s1600/P1100025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LsOXn2FWXlg/VzcZTIwzG6I/AAAAAAAACr8/pLzoyFfV0nYwJz6VR0B6g0z1MwgglkFUACLcB/s640/P1100025.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The copious quantities of buttermilk that was served in </span><a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/search/label/Kutch" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kutch</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">. </span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SGdAquWhKss/VzcZJlaYXpI/AAAAAAAACr0/YUtHELozjqAaon3W07J1l9wBlJdZlRycgCLcB/s1600/aam-ka-panna-recipe26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SGdAquWhKss/VzcZJlaYXpI/AAAAAAAACr0/YUtHELozjqAaon3W07J1l9wBlJdZlRycgCLcB/s640/aam-ka-panna-recipe26.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Aam panna made with raw mangoes. Picture taken from </span><a href="http://chefinyou.com/2012/06/26/aam-ka-panna/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Chefinyou</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On my recent visit to Uttarakhand, I was delighted to taste
the juice of the rhododendron flower, which grows only in high altitudes.
Locals say that the juice keeps the body cool in the Himalayan summer. I bought
a litre of it back home to savour and share with family and friends.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6LbGa8_KtkY/VzcZyqJiWoI/AAAAAAAACsE/EGYkSpAO5gw07eCS-bX8iaFjhhtLdfQQwCLcB/s640/DSC04296.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The rhododendron juice. </span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6LbGa8_KtkY/VzcZyqJiWoI/AAAAAAAACsE/EGYkSpAO5gw07eCS-bX8iaFjhhtLdfQQwCLcB/s1600/DSC04296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Other childhood memories I have of summer are my grandmother
making papads at home and drying them on the terrace. They are consumed
during the monsoon when fresh vegetables are scarce.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xqwyYNpo-8s/VzcaUn7su9I/AAAAAAAACsM/5iVTf4D2dkoVvjWrYRE76FxiHnZP_Vz9gCLcB/s1600/women-papad-drying-in-tripura.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xqwyYNpo-8s/VzcaUn7su9I/AAAAAAAACsM/5iVTf4D2dkoVvjWrYRE76FxiHnZP_Vz9gCLcB/s640/women-papad-drying-in-tripura.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Women drying Pappads. Picture taken from</span><a href="http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/thumb/msid-34374824,width-640,resizemode-4/women-papad-drying-in-tripura.jpg" target="_blank"> <span style="color: red;">Economic Times</span></a><span style="color: red;">.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">If summer comes, can Monsoon be far behind? India has been
suffering from a severe drought so I hope to God that we have a good Monsoon this
year and every year. But till then, itâs time to enjoy the grand and beautiful Indian
Summer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Also follow my posts on </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/RidingaRainbow1/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Facebook</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.</span></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-23712961177025855222016-04-11T09:42:00.000-07:002016-05-14T06:25:50.153-07:00Haridwar- A Photo-essay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On the way back from the Deoriataal-Chopta-Chadrashila peak trek, I had a few hours in Haridwar in the evening. So I decided to attend the grand Ganga aarti at Har ki Pauri ghat and explore the markets at much as I could. Markets, because I love the riot of colours, shapes and fragrances in Indian markets and that is a great indicator of the culture of the place too. </span><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Read my posts on the <a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/2016/01/10-things-to-buy-from-mahabaleshwar.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Mahabaleshwar market</span></a> and the <a href="http://riding-a-rainbow.blogspot.in/search/label/Juna%20bazar" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Juna Bazaar</span></a> in Pune. </span></i></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mkpRy5AH3YQ/VwvMdzM-b5I/AAAAAAAACdY/4iRHPrTAIn4XxHmu44OMgRCsbdfCBtCzA/s1600/DSC04738%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mkpRy5AH3YQ/VwvMdzM-b5I/AAAAAAAACdY/4iRHPrTAIn4XxHmu44OMgRCsbdfCBtCzA/s640/DSC04738%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Ganga aarti at Hari ki Pauri ghat. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The Ganga aarti begins at 6.30 pm and lasts for around 20 minutes. But the crowd starts gathering much before that. The day I had visited was the eve of the 'maha-snaan' or main dipping ritual in the Ganga since it was the time of the Ardh-Kumbh, the religious Hindu congregation that happens once in 6 years ('ardh' meaning half). So I was mentally prepared for the crowd. But I needn't have been petrified of the crowd, sine the local Police, the Army and ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) were doing a commendable job of managing the same. I went to the Har ki Pauri ghat at 5.45 pm to secure a good place from where I could view the aarti. There are 2 options. One is you go to the Har ki Pauri ghat itself where the aarti happens. The second one, which I chose, is to stand right opposite the Har ki Pauri ghat to get a clear and direct view of the ritual. The crowd gathered, the priests assembled and the chanting began. One thing that I liked was that before the aarti all the people gathered are asked to raise their palms to take an oath that they will not pollute the river and will help maintain its sanctity. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Let me allow the pictures to do the talking :-) </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E08O2bHgphA/VwvMPRIZtqI/AAAAAAAACcA/3t4IxIXtT08MNsWeNqpx3mDc_hd6T9ejQ/s1600/DSC04704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E08O2bHgphA/VwvMPRIZtqI/AAAAAAAACcA/3t4IxIXtT08MNsWeNqpx3mDc_hd6T9ejQ/s640/DSC04704.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The sun sets on the river Ganga.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LEjFaxf4wck/VwvMdEozgBI/AAAAAAAACcI/amnmi3t6Qak7bGARnh6TOwXv73E4IBJgQ/s1600/DSC04710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LEjFaxf4wck/VwvMdEozgBI/AAAAAAAACcI/amnmi3t6Qak7bGARnh6TOwXv73E4IBJgQ/s640/DSC04710.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">People gathering for the evening aarti. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mkpRy5AH3YQ/VwvMdzM-b5I/AAAAAAAACcM/jXGT8dYiKMI6Qi6mQ7BkK3cnPFgoo96_A/s1600/DSC04738%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mkpRy5AH3YQ/VwvMdzM-b5I/AAAAAAAACcM/jXGT8dYiKMI6Qi6mQ7BkK3cnPFgoo96_A/s640/DSC04738%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The aarti in all its grandeur. The place looked ethereal with the lights of the lamps. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lrwOV48t3L8/VwvMdRsa64I/AAAAAAAACcE/g-HKZeD632oxnAQ3sXw2W0OMISLQ4SMSA/s1600/DSC04740%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lrwOV48t3L8/VwvMdRsa64I/AAAAAAAACcE/g-HKZeD632oxnAQ3sXw2W0OMISLQ4SMSA/s640/DSC04740%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Since it was the 'Maha-snaan' the next morning, everything was lit up. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MjbmRbVh6b8/VwvMgAMOvhI/AAAAAAAACcQ/Boj4ZGfAnSwWSZBOJf-OFsLEaXoo5AXjw/s1600/DSC04741%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MjbmRbVh6b8/VwvMgAMOvhI/AAAAAAAACcQ/Boj4ZGfAnSwWSZBOJf-OFsLEaXoo5AXjw/s640/DSC04741%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The crowd dispersing after the aarti. </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4T_nFvLmsCQ/VwvMihngniI/AAAAAAAACcU/26kP9qNWMuUsYxhBiyXsiJd7Q-9kNJ8ug/s1600/DSC04745%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4T_nFvLmsCQ/VwvMihngniI/AAAAAAAACcU/26kP9qNWMuUsYxhBiyXsiJd7Q-9kNJ8ug/s640/DSC04745%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was hungry after the aarti and headed to the first shop outside the Har ki Pauri ghat to devour some aloo-puri. (fried bread and potato curry). The quantity was huge as you can see and was served on a leaf. The eatery has no seating arrangement so I had a hard time balancing the food on my left palm, pulling out the puris from under the bowl of curry and eating it..:-) </span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5j7soiBr3Xw/VwvMjF2oNuI/AAAAAAAACcY/TCecLDBft-0FmvmX4ourqpGBksR4uE8xQ/s1600/DSC04746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5j7soiBr3Xw/VwvMjF2oNuI/AAAAAAAACcY/TCecLDBft-0FmvmX4ourqpGBksR4uE8xQ/s640/DSC04746.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Look at the crowd outside Mohan Ji Puriwale, from where I bought aloo-puri. Even Tripadvisor gives it a high rating. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-muTAl_aTfy0/VwvMkco8A2I/AAAAAAAACcc/_83ByELSOBQaBGTtpW8UobhM7V2zD8oAg/s1600/DSC04747%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-muTAl_aTfy0/VwvMkco8A2I/AAAAAAAACcc/_83ByELSOBQaBGTtpW8UobhM7V2zD8oAg/s640/DSC04747%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The neighbouring shop Prachin Mathurawale was quieter and he asked me to stand next to his shop, fearing I would be trampled by the crowd outside his competitor's shop. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0VpPxsp_nT4/VwvMm_HHXHI/AAAAAAAACcg/pEa8K47jP-4uy26b1lvtplRQaPetgxXbA/s1600/DSC04748%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0VpPxsp_nT4/VwvMm_HHXHI/AAAAAAAACcg/pEa8K47jP-4uy26b1lvtplRQaPetgxXbA/s640/DSC04748%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I washed down the heavy dinner with some much need salted Punjabi lassi. Burrp!! </span></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D8wZzWA3wEU/VwvMn82l2PI/AAAAAAAACck/HG88ND-ZMYMPq4LHTY94_ggYMmeJoxU6g/s1600/DSC04749%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D8wZzWA3wEU/VwvMn82l2PI/AAAAAAAACck/HG88ND-ZMYMPq4LHTY94_ggYMmeJoxU6g/s640/DSC04749%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As I started exploring the market, I spotted several other eateries with their wares stacked interestingly. </span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUeo6CPAhEA/VwvMqL8Fy1I/AAAAAAAACco/z7_tM_5SQdU1icpTTDcdV5_jBwZBLcj5w/s1600/DSC04752%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUeo6CPAhEA/VwvMqL8Fy1I/AAAAAAAACco/z7_tM_5SQdU1icpTTDcdV5_jBwZBLcj5w/s640/DSC04752%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Haridwar, being a religious place, there has to be rosary beads and crystals for the devout. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZM_fkxcgXdc/VwvMueYRZ0I/AAAAAAAACcs/Ebsca5D4NnIa6wd_O9fk1sZ_FqAobNEHA/s1600/DSC04753%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZM_fkxcgXdc/VwvMueYRZ0I/AAAAAAAACcs/Ebsca5D4NnIa6wd_O9fk1sZ_FqAobNEHA/s640/DSC04753%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Lamps of different shapes and sizes. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yZUNen_ylVI/VwvMut2jozI/AAAAAAAACcw/L8SlRCLniwY9iC6QH_HCTGLGy5X0bCQog/s1600/DSC04754%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yZUNen_ylVI/VwvMut2jozI/AAAAAAAACcw/L8SlRCLniwY9iC6QH_HCTGLGy5X0bCQog/s640/DSC04754%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Dupattas and cloth pieces to drape one's shoulders, inscribed with holy names. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H7trVlUM1yY/VwvMvWmP7SI/AAAAAAAACc0/OdL1kVBAyuwwYKTyzxBqkFtHldHivxADw/s1600/DSC04756%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H7trVlUM1yY/VwvMvWmP7SI/AAAAAAAACc0/OdL1kVBAyuwwYKTyzxBqkFtHldHivxADw/s640/DSC04756%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Flower sellers. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GpMyWVCpBXA/VwvMx4zp2VI/AAAAAAAACc4/YZB791ItijQm-Jbk3RhjS0v-GLypM9qVg/s1600/DSC04758%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GpMyWVCpBXA/VwvMx4zp2VI/AAAAAAAACc4/YZB791ItijQm-Jbk3RhjS0v-GLypM9qVg/s640/DSC04758%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I saw a decent crowd lined up outside this shop. He was selling Basundi (thickened milk) from the big cauldron and pedhas (milk based sweets). Seeing me take a picture, he offered me a free sample. Seeing the delighted expression on my face after tasting it, he asked me if I wanted to buy. I so wanted to eat that, but did not because the aloo-puri had occupied all the space in the stomach. I just bought some pedhas to take back home. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O2KoIz38CIw/VwvMym1pZ8I/AAAAAAAACc8/OdsEPlkjTd0vfBjGIAheYVPE3vWbB2AOg/s1600/DSC04759%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O2KoIz38CIw/VwvMym1pZ8I/AAAAAAAACc8/OdsEPlkjTd0vfBjGIAheYVPE3vWbB2AOg/s640/DSC04759%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Making of a pedha. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S9QVGwbSOAw/VwvM1gxZ1VI/AAAAAAAACdA/iP9spYbru8kKugvKdMr86Cetg0kgZ2y7A/s1600/DSC04761%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S9QVGwbSOAw/VwvM1gxZ1VI/AAAAAAAACdA/iP9spYbru8kKugvKdMr86Cetg0kgZ2y7A/s640/DSC04761%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">In another shop there were colourful bangles. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cZcCpcliEjQ/VwvM3rRfdpI/AAAAAAAACdE/cnuGlh1MNkwE0LAvGBx4E9yog0YnLk49Q/s1600/DSC04762%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cZcCpcliEjQ/VwvM3rRfdpI/AAAAAAAACdE/cnuGlh1MNkwE0LAvGBx4E9yog0YnLk49Q/s640/DSC04762%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">And conches to herald the start of a prayer. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gb11dH7524E/VwvM4q2m7zI/AAAAAAAACdI/PoutWX3N_NEpNSrvnw-htYkSWU7czTCvw/s1600/DSC04763%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gb11dH7524E/VwvM4q2m7zI/AAAAAAAACdI/PoutWX3N_NEpNSrvnw-htYkSWU7czTCvw/s640/DSC04763%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">And other offerings to the Gods such as puffed rice, and sugar balls and incense sticks. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SkY5t8qahP4/VwvM58e6ONI/AAAAAAAACdM/GhxWm3YuPEUTAg97ZjtNVgjwtSMm0NZeA/s1600/DSC04764%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SkY5t8qahP4/VwvM58e6ONI/AAAAAAAACdM/GhxWm3YuPEUTAg97ZjtNVgjwtSMm0NZeA/s640/DSC04764%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">This shop had a collection of walking sticks and damarus, the 2 sided drum used by Lord Shiva. This was the last interesting shop I saw before I arrived at a street with shops stocked with cheap plastic goods.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I was glad I could at least walk around and explore the market in the 4 hours I had in Haridwar. May be I will come back to spend some more quiet time by the river, on a less crowded day. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5315445415877744507.post-13820775485918843132016-03-22T08:13:00.000-07:002017-10-30T05:25:10.097-07:00Visit to a 115 year old Kulfi shop in Old Delhi. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QTZ9B2VArB0/VvFV-Rxaa_I/AAAAAAAACZU/JEuMyrW4bPcsXeNScg2gjEqYnbE_iE52g/s1600/DSC04043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QTZ9B2VArB0/VvFV-Rxaa_I/AAAAAAAACZU/JEuMyrW4bPcsXeNScg2gjEqYnbE_iE52g/s640/DSC04043.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The paan kulfi was awesome!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">The first time I had heard about </span><a href="https://www.zomato.com/ncr/kuremal-mohan-lal-kulfi-wale-chawri-bazar-new-delhi" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kuremal kulfi</span></a><span style="color: #444444;"> was when
reading recommendations by celebrity chefs on eat outs in Delhi. And we were
anyways going to the city in two weeks, so I had bookmarked this place. The
address said itâs in Chandni chowk, which I knew is a crowded area with narrow
lanes, entangled wires dangling and cycle rickshaws and two wheelers almost
dashing past you, while you cling to the sides of the lanes, if your reflexes
are good.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3MTE_Xw4Re0/VvFWLTSrtZI/AAAAAAAACZY/oHTR57_t2cMwbChR99BZZA17mf83d3rFQ/s1600/DSC04020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3MTE_Xw4Re0/VvFWLTSrtZI/AAAAAAAACZY/oHTR57_t2cMwbChR99BZZA17mf83d3rFQ/s640/DSC04020.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Wading through Chawri bazaar. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JfRpnGGJvpw/VvFWLT91iBI/AAAAAAAACZc/3rgqHNY1oeQV-9oNUT1QP200iPGVjVjWg/s1600/DSC04026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JfRpnGGJvpw/VvFWLT91iBI/AAAAAAAACZc/3rgqHNY1oeQV-9oNUT1QP200iPGVjVjWg/s640/DSC04026.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kucha Patiram marg. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #444444;">Zomato informed us that there are two Kuremal Kulfi shops in
the same lane. One is Kuremal Mohanlal and the other is </span><a href="https://www.zomato.com/ncr/kuremal-mahavir-prasad-kulfi-wale-chawri-bazar-new-delhi" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Kuremal Mahavir Prasad</span></a><span style="color: #444444;">.
Both had great reviews, but the latter had fewer ones indicating that it is a
newer establishment. The timings given on Zomato are wrong too, which we discovered
only after reaching there. But that worked in our favour. So, on a Friday
morning, we took the metro from INA to Chawri bazaar in search of the famed
Kulfi.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8bgrQsxhvts/VvFWXz5rZ9I/AAAAAAAACZk/XIl35POM52kBMdcAUxNSLw1TDnzFMScxg/s1600/DSC04022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8bgrQsxhvts/VvFWXz5rZ9I/AAAAAAAACZk/XIl35POM52kBMdcAUxNSLw1TDnzFMScxg/s640/DSC04022.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Beautiful havelis along the way. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aqHbDPCb3g4/VvFWXjuOc4I/AAAAAAAACZg/s-j20f-ypFkSlZsdDHVpR0Js3BxEQnhKw/s1600/DSC04024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aqHbDPCb3g4/VvFWXjuOc4I/AAAAAAAACZg/s-j20f-ypFkSlZsdDHVpR0Js3BxEQnhKw/s640/DSC04024.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We navigated through narrow, crowded lanes, with wires and
cables entwined and hanging across buildings like festoons in disarray. I was surprised
to see some old mansions or havelis with spectacular architecture, happily
co-existing with modern squalor. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OxcWCIDEFb0/VvFWkcQjHqI/AAAAAAAACZs/une8_Kj8nFwDyGomLLR7awsppsIP3w7Eg/s1600/DSC04027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OxcWCIDEFb0/VvFWkcQjHqI/AAAAAAAACZs/une8_Kj8nFwDyGomLLR7awsppsIP3w7Eg/s640/DSC04027.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VTxHRFw2V4s/VvFWkQRzBLI/AAAAAAAACZo/znCj7Udz8Jkj4pp44K0EtJJhEhgbuaAZQ/s1600/DSC04028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VTxHRFw2V4s/VvFWkQRzBLI/AAAAAAAACZo/znCj7Udz8Jkj4pp44K0EtJJhEhgbuaAZQ/s640/DSC04028.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Notice the intricate woodwork. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We reached Kucha Patiram marg, only to find both the shops
closed. I was almost crest fallen for a few moments. I walked up to the
opposite shop and asked the owner as when the shops would open. He said both
shops open at 1 pm and it was only 10.30 am. But before my hopes dashed
further, he said that just around the bend of the lane, they have their kitchen
(karkhaana) where they make the kulfi and we could go there. He offered to
accompany us and led the way to the kitchen.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">My husband couldn't believe that I could go to any lengths
(read walking through dusty, dirty streets) to eat a Kulfi.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LJyfUuT-d6o/VvFWv_3leAI/AAAAAAAACZ4/Zq_HSMWZUVIgFz3gqiRvrVQgr7H4jy2bw/s1600/DSC04029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LJyfUuT-d6o/VvFWv_3leAI/AAAAAAAACZ4/Zq_HSMWZUVIgFz3gqiRvrVQgr7H4jy2bw/s640/DSC04029.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The haveli opposite Kuremal Kulfi with stunning stucco work. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9Y9pzkCX6c/VvFWv466hEI/AAAAAAAACZ0/vb7awNahl1Mq3mDB6ibY3jh_t322vdj6A/s1600/DSC04030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9Y9pzkCX6c/VvFWv466hEI/AAAAAAAACZ0/vb7awNahl1Mq3mDB6ibY3jh_t322vdj6A/s640/DSC04030.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mohanlalji said it's the depiction of the Pandavas. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">But again, this is not just any kulfi. Kuremal is a legend
in its own right. It was started in 1901 by a person called Kuremal in the very
karkhaana that we were going to.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vtG1x41FjGQ/VvFXzXtWUWI/AAAAAAAACaI/ePNORS2WPKcC5IOyk9UDFbIXJ5pKAM4Vg/s1600/DSC04034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vtG1x41FjGQ/VvFXzXtWUWI/AAAAAAAACaI/ePNORS2WPKcC5IOyk9UDFbIXJ5pKAM4Vg/s640/DSC04034.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kuremal Mohanlalji.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">We were happy that we got to meet the owner, Mohanlal, the
founder Kuremalâs first son, and owner of the Mohanlal shop. He was sitting
with his son in a 10 x 10 square feet area, half of which was partitioned to accommodate
giant stoves and cauldrons. There was nothing cooking in the kitchen when we visited,
but Mohanlalji said that they have 2-3 others areas nearby and each part of the
kulfi making process happens in a different space.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D2b64FCm8P4/VvFX6OCz4zI/AAAAAAAACaM/zDdxkfpNu2w9b6Z85yE6bu_EFjaSURbsA/s1600/DSC04031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D2b64FCm8P4/VvFX6OCz4zI/AAAAAAAACaM/zDdxkfpNu2w9b6Z85yE6bu_EFjaSURbsA/s640/DSC04031.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The kitchen. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As opposed to the timings mentioned in Zomato, which said
the shop opens at 9 am, Mohanlalji said it opens at 1 pm, but at the karkhaana,
you can come even early morning or late night and have your fill of kulfi. When
Kuremal had started the shop, there were just 2 or 3 flavours like malai, kesar
and mango, but now they have experimented with flavours successfully and have
as many as 25 flavours, some unusual like imli (tamarind), paan (betel leaves),
and fruit sorbets like jamun, sitaphal, pomegranate, etc. One interesting
innovation is the stuffed mango kulfi, where they scoop out the insides of the
mango, fill the cavity with mango kulfi and freeze it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ozQhgRxslyc/VvFYGGzAj3I/AAAAAAAACaQ/9J_CczucESUYIvBfI5qes4-x_RI6EHujw/s1600/DSC04053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ozQhgRxslyc/VvFYGGzAj3I/AAAAAAAACaQ/9J_CczucESUYIvBfI5qes4-x_RI6EHujw/s640/DSC04053.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Jamun sorbet and sitaphal kulfi/sorbet.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">They didnât have a menu card in their karkhaana, so we asked
them what flavours are available. We decided to start with the paan kulfi, as I
had never tasted that before. Mohanlalji sent a boy on an errand to pick up
some paan kulfi from the place where it was stored. While waiting, I chatted up
with him casually. I remarked on the fine woodwork on the opposite haveli. He
said that it was built in 1930âs and the owners used to live there until a few
years ago and now they have leased it out for some factory work.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9zdhzhnXYLw/VvFYGbwltlI/AAAAAAAACaU/EvPvSKKggl0Ndk0MmR46prkL7zHLfvf2w/s1600/DSC04054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9zdhzhnXYLw/VvFYGbwltlI/AAAAAAAACaU/EvPvSKKggl0Ndk0MmR46prkL7zHLfvf2w/s640/DSC04054.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Kesar kulfi- one of the original recipes. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The paan kulfi arrived. It was delicious to say the least,
with crushed betel leaves in the kulfi enhancing the flavor. Next was the mango
kulfi. I was a bit disappointed with this because it wasnât as creamy and the flavor
appeared a bit synthetic. While we were deciding what to eat next, Mohanlalji
suggested that we try the jamun sorbet as that is a speciality. We asked him what
else was there and while he rattled off the list of flavours, we asked for
sitaphal kulfi too. He sent one attendant to get the jamun sorbet and sitaphal
kulfi. The jamun sorbet was out of the world with some chat masala sprinkled on
it. We gulped that down and targeted the sitaphal kulfi. This one was more like
a sorbet than a kulfi, not creamy at all. We were eager for more. What we had
tasted so far were contemporary flavours, so we asked for one of the original
flavours which Kuremal had begun with. So Mohanlalji suggested we try kesar. So
we did and found it awesome. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ddtsPGzg88/VvFYRx_Bw8I/AAAAAAAACac/MGVApJhjqRQFv2JOdPyNXCJnRPisDpGJw/s1600/DSC04039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ddtsPGzg88/VvFYRx_Bw8I/AAAAAAAACac/MGVApJhjqRQFv2JOdPyNXCJnRPisDpGJw/s640/DSC04039.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Waiting for the order to arrive. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">I asked him whom the Kuremal Mahavir shop belongs to. He
said thatâs his younger brotherâs. Sensing that I would be touching a raw nerve
here, I did not ask any more questions regarding what appeared to be a fallout
between the two. I asked him and his son about the quantity of kulfi they make
each day. They replied vaguely saying that it depends on the orders they get
and did not divulge the details of the quantity they make for the shop.
Respecting that I did not push further. They accept orders for weddings,
parties and other functions, within Delhi and even anywhere in the world. If itâs
outside Delhi, their cooks travel to the location and prepare the kulfis there.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KblJiN-NQHU/VvFYa5ZwLAI/AAAAAAAACak/1DghBjzf32c-Bd5sAHT24YyBfRaWuzlKg/s1600/DSC04057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KblJiN-NQHU/VvFYa5ZwLAI/AAAAAAAACak/1DghBjzf32c-Bd5sAHT24YyBfRaWuzlKg/s640/DSC04057.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">On the way back, we saw this beautiful building with fine carving and stucco work. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Mohanlalji has a very smiling face and was very friendly but
seemed reluctant to talk about his business. We thanked him for the kulfis and proceeded
to explore another part of Delhi, with a happy stomach.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Each plate of kulfi/sorbet costs Rs 60. I may not go back
for kulfis there, but if you want to visit a kulfi shop with a history of 115
yrs and situated in an area studded with old havelis with the old era charm,
then it warrants a visit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Priya Krishnan Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06197672296826893930noreply@blogger.com2