Exploring Bastar- A Sketch Travelogue

In January 2023, I visited the Bastar district in Chhattisgarh. I got in touch with Unexplored Bastar who planned my trip and also provided me with a guide. I created a sketch travel journal during the trip, like the Ladakh one. Let me take you to Bastar through my sketches. 

I took a flight from Mumbai to Jagdalpur via Hyderabad. 

People waiting at the airport at 5.30 am.

View of the planes while waiting in the lounge. 

My favorite thing to sketch on a flight is the plane window!

Sunrise from above the clouds.

My first stop was the Danteshwari mandir in Dantewada, which is one of the 52 Shaktipeethas where the Mother Goddess is worshipped as an incarnation of Shakti.  According to Hindu mythology, Sati Devi, the first wife of Shiva, committed self-immolation in the Yagna kund (holy sacrificial fire) out of anger, because her father, Daksha, had insulted Lord Shiva. 

In utter grief and anguish, Lord Shiva carried the body of Sati devi, refusing to put it down. He also started the Tandava Nritya, the dance of destruction which threatened to destroy all worlds. Fearing the worst, Lord Vishnu, cut the body of Sati devi into 51 parts and thus creating powerful Shaktipeethas wherever the pieces of her body fell. 

Danteshwari mandir holds the tooth of Sati devi (Dant means teeth in Sanskrit) and is a very important pilgrimage center. 

Danteshwari mandir in Dantewada

The image of Goddess Danteshwari in the garba gruha is carved in black stone. and there was quite a throng of devotees since it was a public holiday on the 26th of January. I sat in the shade and did this sketch as curious people gathered around to take a look at what I was doing. 

My next stop was Barsur which was many centuries ago an important site with around 147 temples dating back to the 11th century built by the Nagavamsa dynasty. It is located around 80 kms from the main town of Jagdalpur and on the banks of the river Indravati. Currently, there are only around three or four temples, that too in ruins which can be visited. The first is the Mama-Bhanja temple believed to have been built by sculptors, an Uncle- nephew duo in a record time of 24 hours. The second is the Battisa temple, a Shiva temple with 32 pillars (battees is 32 in Hindi). The third is the twin Ganesha idols probably part of a temple earlier.

You may like to read my blog post on the cuisine of the Lepcha tribe.

The Mama-Bhanja temple

The Battisa temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and located in tye Barsur town of Dantewada. The inscriptions in the temple mention that the Someshwara and Gangadeshwara temples were constructed in the year 1209 by Queen Ganga Mahadevi of the Nagavansha dynasty. The queen and her KIng husband separately worshipped in the temple hence there are two scared Shivalingas. The presence of two Shivalingas is what makes this temple unique. 

The Battisa temple with 32 pillars 

The twin Ganesha idols are the 3rd largest sandstone figures of Ganesha in the world. 

Me sketching the Nandi.

The next stop was Madarkonta Caves. I was apprehensive about entering the Madarkonta caves after seeing the photos online because there are no steps so one has to walk and crawl over big boulders and narrow passages inside. But a little coaxing from my guides encouraged me to give it a try. A local guide from the Maria tribe named Benjan guided us. That's him holding my sketch. The outside of the cave was beautiful with sedimentary rocks stacked on top of each other. We reached a large chamber inside and I sat to meditate for a few minutes. The guides had put off their torch light and upon opening my eyes there was not a speck of light. Just beautiful darkness and my breath. Such a unique experience.

Entrance to the Madarkonta caves

My guide inside the cave, Benjan. He is hoping to join the Army.

Meditating inside the cave. My guide took this photo. 

Inside the cave.

After the unique cave experience, we spent some refreshing time by a rivulet, with birds chirping around and the sound of water.

A picturesque scene by the rivulet

After the refreshing time in the shade, it was time to face the scorching sun at Tirathgarh waterfalls. The waterfalls are around 35 kms away from Jagdalpur and cascade down from a height of 100 feet. I sat under the burning sun to sketch this while my guide shooed away monkeys who were trying to grab my colour palette, thinking it was food. 

The Tirathgarh waterfalls.

Some herostones or Veergal near the waterfalls

Tirathgarh waterfalls

After sketching at the Tirathgarh waterfalls, we visited a tribal market. Having visited tribal markets in Koraput, Odisha, I was looking forward to experiencing it. 

Some tribal communities in Chhattisgarh eat red ants as part of their diet. The red ants grow in abundance on Sal and Mango trees. They form nests by joining large leaves and lay their eggs inside. The tribal people collect these large clutches of ants plus their eggs and make a chutney (dip) out of it. It is locally called Chaapda. The chutney is made by crushing the ants and eggs live along with garlic, ginger, salt and whatever seasoning they fancy and eaten with rice and lentils. This dish is high on protein and believed to offer immunity against flu, malaria, etc. I saw this beautiful tribal woman selling ants out of leaf cups in a market. She broke into a smile upon seeing her sketch. And just in case you are curious, no, I didn't eat the ants last photo of the close up of the ants taken by my guide.

You may like my blog post on the Brokpa tribe of Ladakh.

Another interesting thing I sampled was the Mahua alcohol which is one of the oldest indigenous alcohols in India. The Mahua tree grows abundantly in central, western and eastern India. And the tribal communities such as the Gonds, Santhals, Dhuruwa, etc worship it as the Tree of Life. Every part of the tree- flowes, branches, leaves are used by the tribals in some form or the other. The mahua tree as well as the alcohol was inextricably linked to tribal life for centuries until the British banned it citing it as a health hazard (how ridiculous!). Probably this is the only alcohol made from sweet mahua flowers over a laborious 8 day process. This lady from whom I bought the alcohol was also making cups out of large leaves to drink the liquid from. I saw several groups of women coming, buying their share and sitting and chatting away. My guide explained this is their version of a kitty party. Women come for shopping in the market, catch up with friends over a glass of liquor ad have a good time. Women are the same everywhere.

That's me drinking mahua alcohol from a leaf cup. 

I saw women and men selling heaps of dried mahua, which people buy and make alcohol in their own homes. 

I returned to Bastar and in the morning visited another Danteshwari mandir next to the Bastar Palace.

We then visited the Narayanpur temple, the only temple dedicated to Sri Vishnu in the area. 

On the way to the Bastar Shiv mandir, we stopped for lunch at a small eatery run by the local tribal village women. Food was served in leaf bowls, the ultimate sustainable method. What impressed me was that they had UPI digital payment. 

I sketched the view next to this eatery. 

I stayed at a village-run homestay near Chitrakote waterfalls. The house was made of mud and the room was quite simple and comfortable. 

The Chitrakote waterfalls is horse shoe shaped and is compared with the Niagara waterfalls. The local people don't appreciate that comparison though. I agree because each place is unique. The waterfall is also worshipped by the local people. My guide @akashwithsky explained that many from Bastar may not be able to go to the Ganga river which is very holy for Hindus so they offer their prayers to the Chitrakote waters instead. The best time to visit the waterfalls in its roaring glory is after the Monsoon , from August to November. What I saw now is a mere trickle compared to what it looks like in its full form.

You may like my blog post on the ancient martial arts form Kalaripayattu.

I also visited a few artisans in Bastar. The first was the Dhokra artisans. 

The lost wax casting technique or Dhokra art as it is called in India, has been in continuous existence here since around 5000 years from the Indus Valley Civilization. One of the earliest figurines discovered from the IVC is that of the 'Dancing Girl'. I had the opportunity to visit the Dhokra artisans in Kondagaon, Chhattisgarh. First, a clay core is made in the form the desired final image. Over it is applied a layer of wax, shaped and carved intricately. The wax is a mix of beeswax, resin and a bit of charcoal. This is again covered with clay, which takes the negative form of the wax from inside, becoming a mould for the metal that will be poured inside it. Holes are left in the mould for the molten wax to drain when the clay is cooked. The wax is replaced by the molten brass. The liquid metal hardens between the innermost clay core and the inner surface of the outer mould. After it cools, the outer layer of clay is removed and the metal is polished. Dhokra art making still thrives in the states of Chhattisgarh, Odisha, and Bengal and I have quite a few pieces of Dhokra art that adorn my home. So glad to have an insider view of this ancient art.

Bastar is known for its terracotta art. I visited the National award winning potter-artist Shri. Ashok Chakradhari at his workshop-cum-residence. There is a custom amongst the tribal communities of Bastar, of offering votive figures to Mother Nature whom they worship. The clay for the terracotta is sourced from river banks and strained to get rid of impurities. It is then mixed with sand and kneaded in a machine to make it smooth and then poured into vats to allow it to settle. The Votive terracotta figures are hollow and are made with multiple cylinders and pots of various shapes. For eg, the head, trunk and legs of the elephant are made separately and then joined with mud. Geru or red oxide is used to impart a reddish tint to the clay. After joining the various parts of the figure, it is further decorated with pieces of clay and then baked in a kiln at temperatures ranging from 700° to 900° C. Check the pictures of the finished products.

On the way, we visited the Bastar Shiva temple. Not much is known about this temple and the Archeological Survey of India seemed to be doing some renovation work.

I visited the Anthropological Museum in Jagdalpur and saw these memory stones erected in memory of near and dear ones.

Last but not least, I would like to mention my guide, Akash, who made sure I had a comfortable trip and with whom I rode a pillion on his scooter around Chhattisgarh. 

I did this trip with Unexplored Bastar, a travel company based on social entrepreneurship model. 

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Kumaoni Cuisine- A Gastronomical Delight!

When I landed in Sarmoli in April this year to celebrate my birthday with birds, I had no idea of the gastronomical journey that awaited me. While I knew that, as in most villages, the food would be fresh from the farm to the kitchen, I did not expect Kumaoni food to be so distinct and unique. Why? Because I had never heard of Kumaoni food before. And I wonder why?

Bhaang ki chutney- chutney made with cannabis seeds.

I stayed with two different hosts during my 10 day stay there. While with the first host, I tried a few unique things like bhaang ki chutney, and Bhaang ke pakode, it was my second host who completely blew my mind with the varieties she whipped up for every meal.

Kumaoni food is best described as simple, earthy, rustic and robust. The meals are essentially simple but bursting with flavours and full of nutrients. It is characterized by the use of herbs that are unique to the place, such as Timur, Jimboo, Gandhrayani, etc. In the kitchen of my second home-stay, all meals were prepared only on the traditional 'chulha' or hearth and not on cooking gas. So, by default everything was slow cooked and the chulha imparts a distinct taste to the food while enhancing its taste several notches higher.

All the dishes were served on Kansa plates and bowls. Traditionally in India, Kansa (an alloy of copper and tin) was used for eating because as per Ayurveda, the alkalising properties of the metal are very beneficial for one's body. That, and the love and enthusiasm with which Bhanu, my hostess, cooked each and every meal, satiated my body and soul. 

My hostess cooking on the 'chulha'.

The cute kitchen from the outside.

                            You may also like my post on Himachali Cuisine.

Jimboo leaves being sun dried.

Bhaang seeds/ Cannabis seeds.

My second host, Saraswati Thakuni’s sweet grand-daughter named Bhanu was the magician in the kitchen. With a commendable passion and pride in Kumaoni food, she put up a splendid display and gave me a taste of most things that Kumaon is known for!

Giant radishes in the farm.

You may like my blog post on Cuisine of the Lepchas.

Cabbage fields.

Here’s what I ate. Be warned you’ll be extremely hungry by the time you finish reading this post!

My first meal was plain parathas, delectable rajma and Bhaang ki chutney. And the wheat, rajma and bhaang, everything is from their own farm. Need I say how I savored every morsel of it.

Rajma and parathas.

Rotis, malka daal and saag.

Most of the days I was there, there were heavy hailstorms and thunder. My room had a metal sheet over the tiled roof, and the sound of the hail stones hitting the roof was so amplified that at one point I thought that monsters were trying to rip down the room to get me. But I’m safe and sound writing this a few months later! Blame it on my wild imagination! One such evening after I returned from my illustration assignment, my host prepared some comforting soup called ‘Jia’. It’s a soup made with roasted rice, salt and a herb called ‘thuner’. This soup was served with some jaggery.

Mundve ki roti, masoor dal and gobi subzi.

A fritter called Chunni.

One breakfast was lavish with Mundve ka halva, a Kumaoni noodles called ‘Kokla’ and jimboo parathas. Mundve is a millet widely eaten in Uttarakhand and is similar to finger millet (ragi, nachni) in colour and taste. Jimboo is a herb that is eaten fresh mixed with parathas or dried and used in gravies and lentils. I loved the Kokla so much that Bhanu made that on the morning I was leaving and packed some for me to eat on the way back.

Thoya rice. 

Thoya seeds- a bit like cumin seeds but much stronger in flavour.

Mundve ka halva, jimboo parathas and Kumaoni noodles called Kokla.

With tea, one time I was served a fritter called ‘chunni’ made with wheat flour, sugar and rice flour.

Another herb that is liberally used is Thoya. It looks like cumin seeds much has a much stronger flavor. Bhanu made some thoya fried rice with it for dinner one day.

Bhutt (black soya bean) being cooked.

Close up of bhutt.

Mundve ki roti, bhutt daal and muthiyas.

There is another pulse called ‘bhutt’ (black soya bean)which Sarmoli has stopped growing but which they procure from another village. Bhanu had got some to cook for me. It’s very high in nutrition and I was told that her grandmother’s generation and before that, women had a meal of this bhutt dal and worked in the farm and fields the whole day and remained strong even in their old age.

Jiya soup with jaggery.

The herb called gandhraini.

Thuner, a bark of a tree also used as a culinary herb.

Atte ka halva.

One day I offered to cook a Gujarati dish called Muthiya. It’s made of wheat flour, bottle gourd and some chickpea flour. 

Dried bitter gourds.

Clockwise from left- Dubka, dried bitter gourd subzi, Phonn and roti.

I did a whole day trek-cum-bird watching trip to the upper reaches of the forest and my host had packed some out-of-the-world delicious gobi parathas and rajma. Gosh! I have never tasted gobi parathas as scrumptious as this.

Rajma and gobi parathas.

Khajura.

My trek guide had carried a typical Kumaoni snack called Khajura with him made by the local women. It’s similar to shakkar para but coarser.

Timur, a spice like black pepper.

This is the timur tree, full of thorns. Wonder how they pick the timur from this?

The hosts has organized a pooja one day so for Prasad they made Atte ke halva, made with wheat flour, sugar, ghee and milk.

A pancake called Puli.

This is a fragrant root which is fed to the cattle. It was so fragrant, was tempted to take a bite! 

In Kumaon, they grow a bitter gourd which is actually sweet. They call it meetha karela. They dry it and use it round the year.

Bhanu, my sweet host cooking spinach. 

Rotis, spinach saag, Dubka. 

Another fried rice called Bhumla with spinach saag and Dubka.

Another very traditional dinner was a dish called Phonn which is made with buttermilk, mundva flour, rice, timur, bhaang seeds and a tadka of jimboo. This was served with Dubka, a dish made with butt daal, and a herb called gandhrayani.

Giant sized lemon trees. The Kumaonis pickle these lemons.

See how big it is?

For breakfast another day I was served a sweet pancake called ‘puli’ made with wheat flour, sugar and milk. This was served with curd.

                               You may like my post on the Rhododendron Trail.

I did a sketch of the rhododendron flowers.

A local woman Bina, making the rhododendron juice.

Five days was a short time indeed to experience Bhanu's hospitality. I have promised to go back and soak up more of the mountains, cuisine and peace. 

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