Kaas Plateau- Maharashtra's own 'Valley of Flowers'.

When I read about the damage that hordes of tourists have done to the Kaas Plateau, I thank my stars that I went there 5 years ago, in September 2010, when there weren’t many visitors there, (at least when I visited) and when there were no entry fees or fencing around the flowers. For the uninitiated, Kaas plateau is in Satara district of Maharashtra, India and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Every year towards the end of the Monsoon season, in September and October, for around 6 weeks, the plateau transforms itself into a carpet of flowers of various hues. No wonder it is called Maharashtra’s own ‘Valley of Flowers’.

Image taken from Naturelyrics

I had travelled with a team which is into environment conservation, called Sprouts Environment Trust.  So that is what made the trip entirely pleasurable. To know why the plateau blooms only during this period, to know that some flowers bloom once in 8 years, to understand the flora and fauna of the region and marvel at Nature’s infinite intelligence and beauty. If people go as regular tourists without knowing the background of the place, like most do, they may end plucking the flowers there, sitting and lying on the flowers, in the process, trampling them, to get the best photo-op, and so on and so forth.

This has happened, and that’s why the government has restricted the number of visitors to 2000 per day and imposed an entry fees of Rs 10 and put up a fencing all along the main areas.

Image taken from Nature Lyrics

The flora of the kaas plateau is very unique to the area. And here’s why. The plateau is largely formed of porous basalt rock which is covered by a thin cover of soil (about an inch) formed due to erosion. Most of the water gets drained off due to the porosity of the rock. That is why there is no vegetation all-round the year. At certain places where water gets accumulated because of the uneven surface is where the flowering plants grow. At the end of the 6 weeks, when the flowers and the plants wither, they decompose and form manure for the next year’s plants and flowers to grow and bloom. That is why extensive plucking of flowers by tourists has damaged the eco-system. Each flower is important even after it withers, for it holds the life for the next season’s bloom.

Surreal sunset

It is said that there are around 850 species of flowering plants in Kaas, including many medicinal varieties, with many in the endangered category. The rich biodiversity of the place includes butterflies and moths, migratory birds, reptiles and mammals. The laterite rock layer allows a rich variety of fungi, lichen, ferns and mosses to thrive.

Image taken from TOI 

We were lucky to see the Karvy flowers (Carvia callosa) in bloom that year, as it blooms only once in 8 years. We saw different patches of the plateau bathed in different hues. Some areas were an endless purple, some glowed with yellow, and some other patches were pink and white. Around late afternoons and evenings, the entire landscape acquires a surreal look with the mellow golden sunlight lighting up the existing riot of colors.

The windmill project at Chalkewadi

Some tips if you are visiting Kaas:

1.    It is advisable to go with a group/team of environmentalists/ botanists/ conservationists/ or people who can help identify the flora and fauna of the region. Trust me, it enhances and enriches your trip manifold.

2.    Do not pluck flowers and be careful not to trample flowers in the process of getting a good photo-op.

3.    Please do not litter and carry a bag in which you can throw trash and bring it back with you.

4.    Use a camera with a good macro function to capture the splendid flowers in close-up.

5.    Carry a light jacket or shawl as it gets a bit chill in the evenings.

6.    Wear good walking shoes as you will have a walk around a lot.

7.    If you are travelling solo, carry a book on the flowers of Kaas which will help you identify the plants and flowers.

8.    The flowering season starts from September to mid-October so plan your trip accordingly.

9.    Go on a weekday if possible to avoid the crowds.

10.  Last but not the least, feast your eyes and soul on Nature’s beauty.

If you plan to go:

-          If you plan on staying overnight you will have to stay in Satara as there is no accommodation up on the Kaas plateau

-          Other nearby places to visit are the Thosegar waterfalls and the Chalkewadi windmill project around 24 kms from Satara.

A Day in Mysore

In 2014, during my trip to the Rainforest Retreat near Madikeri, where I went as a volunteer, I decided to stop over for a day in Mysore to explore the city. I was there only for 24 hours, but tried my best to squeeze in as much of the culinary and cultural delights the city has to offer. So in case you visit Mysore, here's a rough guide you can use to get your way around. 

Sagu dosa at Vinayaka Mylari

8.30 am- Head out for some lip-smacking traditional breakfast at Vinayaka Mylari at Nazarbad road. I had sagu dosa served with coconut chutney served on banana leaf and washed it down with delicious filter coffee. Things had started on a great note. Before arriving in the city in the morning, I had got in touch with Royal MysoreWalks, a team that conducts guided heritage, food and cultural walks and tours in Mysore. 

The softest idlis from Vinayaka Mylari. 

Thaali from Dasaprakash.

9.30 am : Ananth, a very cheerful and interesting guide with the Royal Mysore Walks, enlightened me on how various important world events are connected to Mysore, and little known aspects of Mysore's history that includes the Tamil Nadu CM, Jayalalitha's grandmother being the first woman graduate in Mysore, and how upon losing a war, the British took Tipu Sultan's young sons , aged 9 and 7 as war hostages!! He had also carried vintage photos from Mysore's past. It was interesting, when at the 125 yr old market, he held up a 100 yr old photo so that we could compare the past and present.  The sight of the Free Mason's (Secret Societies) building piqued my curiosity! Also the RMW requires a minimum of 2 people for the tour in which case the fees would be Rs 600. I travelled solo and there was no one else who had booked, so I paid double.

Haalbai- a sweet made with rice flour, coconut and cardamom. 

The market, then and now. 

11.30 am – You could visit the Mysore zoo, which is one of the oldest zoos in India. Entry charges are Rs 50. Although I hate the idea of animals being kept in the zoo, I was a bit relieved to see that all the animals and birds looked healthy and had ample space to move around unlike some other zoos I’ve been to where animals look depressed and almost famished. I saw giraffes, rhinos, white tigers and a host of other animal and bird species.

Endless cups of frothing filter coffee. 

Chow chow bhath- a serving of Upma and sheera- a staple Karnataka breakfast. 

1 pm - Mysore has some lovely eateries which offer traditional Mysore food. Check my post on what to eat in Mysore. I headed to Dasaprakash for their thali. I wanted to sample the food for which the late Wodeyar Maharaja is said to have visited this restaurant sometimes. The thali comprised chapatis, rice, rasam, brinjal curry with gravy, masala rice and another non-descript vegetable. It wasn’t that remarkable but I loved the kheer/payasam was which was made with rice, coconut milk and jaggery.

The Mysore Palace from outside. Photography is not allowed inside. 

Dahi vada.

Vanilla ice cream from Brahmin's Soda factory. 

2.30 pm - Head to the famed Mysore palace and be charmed by the royalty and also escape the afternoon sun outside. It’s a sprawling palace so leisurely stroll inside the three storied structure designed by the English Architect, Henry Irwin. You’ll get to see sculpted pillars, a golden throne embedded with jewels, paintings and shrines. Photography is prohibited inside the palace premises. The palace is illuminated on Sundays, Public Holidays as well as during the Dasara Celebrations with 97,000 electric bulbs.

4 pm- if you are an art aficionado, a visit to the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery will be worth your time. On display are original paintings of the legendary painter Raja Ravi Varma. Did you know he was the first artist to give a popular face to Indian Gods and Goddesses through his paintings? Prior to that people worshipped statues, sculptures and miniature paintings. And he also designed the sari as we know it today and the way women almost throughout the country drape the sari today is fashioned on how he draped the Goddesses and women in his paintings. The museum also displays possessions and souvenirs of the Mysore royal family such as rare musical instruments, Japanese art, and other memorabilia.

The Sarasaparilla soda

5.30 pm - For a quick refreshment head to the Brahmin Soda Factory for ice creams or fruit salads. It’s a small place which gets cramped with people seated facing each other like in a train coach. I had the ice cream and also Sarasaparilla juice which is an extract of the roots of a plant by the same name and is believed to have health benefits. It was very refreshing and more like flavored water.

The flower lane at the market.

6.00 pm - You could explore the 125 yrs old Mysore market with different lanes dedicated to different items like fruit, vegetables, flowers, etc. Nothing gives you a taste of the pulse of a place than its old markets abuzz with people, flies, aromas, colors and textures. In the corner facing the main road you’ll see Guru Sweet Mart. Ever wondered the origins of the famed sweet Mysore pak?. This is your answer. This shop was started by the descendants of Kakasura Madappa, the royal chef, who made the Mysore pak for the then king in the early 1900's. The fifth generation of the inventor of the Mysore pak still runs this shop. For a place which has such a legend attached to it the shop is ridiculously small, just 5 x 5 feet. The Mysore pak itself didn't taste great and was a let down. So please do taste before you buy 2 kilos, which I happily did assuming it would be great.

The fifth generation of the inventor of the Mysore pak. Great great grandson of Kakasura Madappa who made the Mysore pak for the then king.

The original Mysore pak shop.

And entire lane dedicated to bananas in the market. 

A special Mysore banana called nanjangud rasabale. It was buttery and melt in the mouth and delicious. I bought half a dozen for my husband too.

7 pm- Either head out for the light and sound show at the Mysore Palace which lasts for 40 minutes and narrates the history of Mysore Kingdom, the rule of Wodeyars, etc through the combination of sound and light. Or else head to the Cauvery Handicrafts Emporium, which is run by the government and has many branches across the city to take home gifts and souvenirs. I bought some lovely bookmarks made of and carved on sandalwood and some Mysore Sandal soaps and sandal scented incense sticks. You are in the sandalwood capital after all!!

 

Set Dosa at Hotel Siddhartha.

8.30- Head out for sumptuous dinner at Hotel Siddhartha. I ordered a set dosa which was spongy and came with coconut chutney, coriander chutney and sambar. Never the one to say ‘no’ to filter coffee, I ended my meal and my trip to Mysore with a frothing cup of steaming coffee. It was time to head to my hotel and leave for home the next day. 

If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may subscribe to new posts updates via email. Enter your email id in the 'Follow by email' on the right hand side panel. 

Also follow my posts on Facebook.